Is your pet afraid of the cone? Other alternatives?

June 1, 2022 • Ask LSH Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Trainer

By Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

A soft cone makes it easier to get comfortable.

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

A: Let’s face it.  An Elizabethan collar can be terrifying for an animal. If your pet has never worn one, there may not be time to get them comfortable with it in an emergency. You can try alternatives that may have mixed results, so discuss these with your veterinarian first. You still need to prevent your pet from reaching the affected body part.

A pipe insulation foam tube can be cut into segments and put around a collar. This collar should be several inches larger than your pet’s neck circumference to allow for the added bulk of the foam. Insulation is available in a variety of thicknesses so use one of an appropriate size to prevent your pet from licking around the piping.

Inflatable collars can be adjusted by how much air you put in them. These collars are soft so your pet can lie down easily while wearing one. Your pet is less likely to crash into walls, chairs, or your legs because their peripheral vision is not blocked. Soft collars don’t crack or make noise like traditional cones. They also come in a variety of colors and fun styles so they may be less scary to young children.  

If your pet is calm, a paper or cloth cone may work. These look like a large coffee filter with your pet’s head through the center. A pet intent on reaching a wound can easily rip or destroy this type of collar. These must be quickly replaced if they get wet. Some soft cones are more rigid with foam panels covered in fabric. These stand more upright around your pet’s neck but are still soft enough for your pet to lie down comfortably.

Neck brace styles are also available. These are made of soft plastic and conform to your pet’s neck.  They are held in place by hook and loop fasteners and prevent your pet from craning their head to reach a rear body part.

Post-surgical bodysuits (think dog or cat “onesies”), T-shirts, small underwear, or booties can be used to cover either the entire trunk or just the feet, arms, and legs. These usually allow freedom to move normally but likely will not stop a determined chewer. If a covering becomes soiled or wet, you will need to replace it.

Whichever method you choose, frequent inspection and adjustment may be needed. Make sure your pet remains comfortable, relaxed, clean, and dry for the duration of recovery.

Surgical Suit

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP
T-shirts work too.

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

 

 

Does Enrichment Matter for My Cat?

May 11, 2022 • Ask LSH Cats I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker

By Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

Q: I just got a new kitten, but I don’t have much extra money for enrichment. Does it matter for a cat?

A: Enrichment is as important for your cat as it would be for dogs or people! But that doesn’t mean you have to spend money or much time creating enrichment for your cat.

Training is a form of enrichment. You can teach your cat many tricks such as mat training, hand targeting, come when called, high 5, and so on. This doesn’t require much more than some tasty treats such as canned cat food, cream cheese, tuna, or chicken as well as some time and patience. Cats learn just as quickly as dogs; it’s just a matter of finding what motivates them. You’re not only working your cat’s mind, you’re opening up a new way to communicate while creating a wonderful relationship.

Homemade toys are enriching as well. Fill empty toilet paper and paper towel tubes with a couple of treats, then crimp the ends closed and toss them for your cat to wrestle and shred. Fill small cardboard boxes with brown packing paper and place a few treats in the bottom so the cat can dive in the box to find the treats.

Teach your cat to “go find it”. Hide pieces of their kibble or a few treats around the house. Begin by showing your cat the first treat and let them see you “hiding” it right in front of them, for example behind a chair leg. When they find that one and finish eating it, they will likely look at you for another. Walk across the room, show them another treat, and tell them to “go find it” as you “hide” the next one. Do this until they learn the cue and then you can start hiding treats in different rooms.

Cardboard boxes make great cat forts. Cut out windows and doors for them to explore. Attach multiple boxes together and create elaborate cardboard cat trees with cardboard “tunnels” connecting them. Hide a treat in different “rooms” of the cardboard cat shack.
If your outside environment is safe, you can train your cat to walk on a leash using a harness. The smell of dirt, trees, plants, and grass provides endless enrichment.

Puppy Confinement Training Tips

May 4, 2022 • Dogs

By Breanna Norris, KPA CTP

crate training

Photo Courtesy Breanna Norris, KPA CTP

The goal of confinement training is for the puppy to be comfortable in their crate or other safe haven, such as an exercise pen or behind a gate. This area should not be used as a punishment but as a relaxing place to go for nap time or to gnaw on a chew toy.

When you bring your puppy home, be sure to have the crate accessible from the family’s common space. For some people, it will be convenient to have multiple crates, such as in the living room, bedroom, and office.

Crate training can go wrong when people confine the puppy and then leave. Puppies should not be left to “cry it out” and crates should never be kicked or shaken to quiet a puppy. Begin by either removing the door or tying it back so it doesn’t startle your puppy.

Toss several treats in the back of the crate and allow the puppy to find them. Do this multiple times a day and when the puppy goes inside to check for treats, you can reward them again.

Photo Courtesy Breanna Norris, KPA CTP

Next, add the door. As your puppy goes into the crate, gently close the door, and give your puppy a treat through the door. Open the door and allow them to come out. Only close the door for a few seconds at first, then slowly increase how long the puppy is confined.

To practice, have the crate nearby while you watch a movie, read a book or work at your computer. Your puppy should have a safe chew, or you can drop treats in the crate in the same spot each time so that the puppy can relax rather than hunt for them. If your puppy is relaxed with you nearby, try doing some activities with a little more movement, such as folding laundry or making dinner. Your puppy should still be able to see you and you should continue to give treats.

If your puppy remains comfortable, try briefly leaving the room, then return and give a treat. If your dog gets upset, leave for a shorter time and return before they become stressed, giving a treat before they vocalize. If they still seem upset, let them out. Don’t let the puppy continue to cry.

Before practicing crate confinement, be sure your puppy has been taken outside to the bathroom and is ready for a nap. Too much time in a crate can make the dog anxious.

Confinement can be scary and frustrating for your new puppy so go slowly with training. A negative experience in the crate can make training harder. Keep sessions short and positive. If you are concerned that your puppy is showing signs of separation anxiety, seek professional help.

Photo Courtesy Breanna Norris, KPA CTP

Help for Your Barking Dog

April 6, 2022 • Dogs

By Sherrie Yuschak, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA-CTP

Barking is a normal behavior and one of the ways dogs communicate. Some breeds have a higher tendency to bark, so barking frequency, volume, and duration vary by individual. 

Photo courtesy of Paisley Lunchick

Certain barking can be desirable, alerting your family to package deliveries, visitor arrivals, and potential intruders. But excessive barking can cause frustration, weakening the bond between you and your dog. Here are some behavior modification steps to help you and your dog gain peace and quiet.

Step 1: Identify what triggers your dog to bark such as other dogs, people, wildlife, garbage trucks, or door knocking. Keeping a log is helpful and can speed up the behavior modification progress.

Step 2: Find the situations causing your dog to bark such as perching on the couch, window watching during busy times when people and other dogs are passing by, kids playing after school or rabbits in the yard during the morning.

Photo courtesy of Paisley Lunchick

Step 3: Think about what you would like your dog to do instead of barking. For example, your dog can be taught to lie on a mat when the doorbell rings, grab a toy when a delivery arrives, hold a toy to muffle or stop barking, run to you for further instructions, or be quiet on cue after a certain number of barks.

Step 4: Identify how you can manage the environment. Move or block the couch perch, play music, increase the TV volume to mask the sounds of kids playing, or cover the window with opaque film.

Step 5: Set a time frame such as two weeks. Monitor your dog’s progress in your log.

Photo courtesy of Paisley Lunchick

Often people become frustrated with barking and try corrections such as yelling or throwing something at the dog, stomping feet and rushing toward the dog, or using a citronella or shock collar. These methods are rarely effective to stop barking, and, in some cases, may even make the barking worse. Your dog may become untrusting or fearful. It can be more effective to teach your dog what to do instead of barking. Management will be needed until your dog learns how to do something else. If your dog is anxious or has barking tendencies, or you are inconsistent with training new behaviors, it can be more challenging to stop the barking.

Some dogs might not improve despite consistently using these techniques. If you don’t find relief from barking, seek a consult with a certified veterinary behaviorist or other behavior professional. A positive reinforcement-based dog trainer can help speed your progress. A thorough assessment, customized treatment plan, and professional support might be your key to quiet.

Cat Body Language

April 5, 2022 • Cats

By Samantha Zurlinden, Veterinary Student Class of 2023
Reviewed by the Veterinary Team at VIN

One of the best things you can do to strengthen your relationship with your cat is to understand their body language. People communicate mainly in writing or speaking while cats use their body and sense of smell and touch.  By understanding their language, we can improve our relationship with them and interpret relationships between cats within our home.  

By observing your cat, you will see differences in body language by the positions of their body, tail, ears and eyes. The signals of all these body parts combine to give us a clear idea of what they are trying to say.  Sometimes fearful cat body language, such as closing their eyes, hunching close to the ground and tucking their tail around them, may be an indication of pain. You should discuss any signs of anxiety, stress, or pain with your veterinarian.

Body Position

Examples of relaxed body language:

  • Loose, stretching out on side
  • Rolling on back comfortably
  • Eyes blinking slowly, casually gazing or closed if sleeping
  • Ears in a neutral position or forward if alert/attentive
  • Tail in neutral relaxed position, tip might move slightly or upright in a question mark shape

The cat is lying down calmly and the body looks relaxed. The eyes are not dilated, and ears are erect indicating alertness and attentiveness. Photo Courtesy of VIN Images

The cat is stretched out, sleeping with closed eyes. Photo Courtesy of VIN Images

Examples of fearful body language:

  • Tense
  • Hunching to ground, trying to hide
  • Eyes dilated in a light room or averted stare
  • Closed eyes but faking sleep may indicate pain/stress
  • Ears rotating backward or partially outward
  • Tail curled around or under body

This cat may be sleeping and enjoying the sun because eyes are closed, ears are forward and erect, and the head is upright. However, the cat’s body looks slightly tense and not fully relaxed so faked sleep cannot be ruled out. The cat’s environment and situation should be considered as part of the picture. Photo Courtesy of AdobeStock Images

This cat is lying on their back with forward, erect ears indicating they are attentive and alert. The eyes are not dilated and the cat does not look tense. If we were able to see the tail, we might be better able to understand if the cat is calm or anxious. Most cats do not enjoy a belly rub. Photo courtesy of VIN Images.

Examples of increased fear with possible aggressive body language:

  • Arched back with tail hair standing on end, possibly dilated pupils and pinned-back ears (“Halloween cat”)
  • Eyes in a fixed stare
  • Ears flattened to either side
  • Tail twitching, lashing, or tail hairs standing on end

This cat is anxious and fearful. You can tell by the hunched down body and eyes in a fixed stare, pinned-back ears, and a tail tightly curled around the body with fur that is somewhat raised. Photo courtesy of CattleDog® Publishing

This cat’s body posture and body language are sometimes referred to as the “Halloween Cat.” Notice how the cat’s back is arched and hairs are standing on end. The cat may be hissing and ears are rotated outward and backward. This cat is fearful and may escalate to aggression. Photo courtesy of CattleDog® Publishing

Kids and Dogs

March 24, 2022 • Dogs

By Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

Many parents mistakenly think a child-friendly dog means the dog should tolerate anything a child does. Although kids and dogs can, and often do, have great relationships, it may not be as easy as it seems. Children are unpredictable because they make loud noises and move suddenly, causing even the most mild-mannered dog to become frightened and overwhelmed. Any dog, even one who loves kids, can bite if they feel threatened, especially if they can’t escape the situation. Research shows that kids are most often bitten by a dog they know. In these situations, adults may not be watching or believe their dog would bite.

Inappropriate Interactions

The above interaction is not recommended (as outlined in the article). Photo courtesy Heather Howell, LVT, RVT, MBA

Parents should actively monitor interactions between children and dogs for potentially dangerous situations. When interacting with your dog, do not allow children to:

  • put their face in the dog’s face, hug, or kiss
  • play roughly or wrestle
  • tease
  • take away, play or put their hands in the dog’s food dish
  • run near or approach a dog who is seated or lying down because this may seem threatening to the dog

Prevention

Adults should actively engage with the children and dogs. When direct supervision is not possible, separate the dogs and children using barriers. Provide your dog with their own space. This should be a closed room or secure crate with everything your dog needs. Baby gates can be used to set up this safe haven. Teach your dog to love their special place and teach the children to never approach when the dog is resting there.

Learn Your Dog’s Language

Children are more at risk of dog bites because they haven’t been taught how to read a dog’s body language and can’t assess the danger. Dogs will often display subtle signs of discomfort, such as yawning and avoiding eye contact, before escalating to more obvious signs such as growling. By watching for these signs, you can step in to safely manage the situation by guiding your dog away from the child. If ignored or punished, then your dog is more likely to bite “out of the blue”.

Teach your children to recognize your dog’s body language by using children’s books, videos, and coloring pages. Adults still need to manage all child/dog interactions.

Structured Interactions

Show children appropriate ways to interact with dogs so they can be safe. Structured, predictable interactions between dogs and children can build positive relationships. With adult supervision, the following activities are appropriate for children with dogs who have never shown aggression:

Fetch –
Using two or more toys, older children can play fetch without needing to take toys away from the dog. The child tosses the first toy and when the dog returns, they toss the next toy.

Flirt pole –
For dogs who love to chase, attach a plush toy to a rope and stick that your child can hold. Using the flirt pole the same way you would a cat wand, let the dog chase the toy. Always finish the game with a treat.

Training –
Involving kids with the dog’s training can help create a strong, positive bond between them. Start training sessions with cues the dog already knows, like “sit”.

Tossing treats or kibble –
Another simple but effective game is to have kids toss either treats or kibble across the room for the dog.

Teach your child to freeze in place if your dog starts chasing or jumping at them. More movement or noise from children will encourage the dog to continue. If you have taught recall or “touch”, call your dog to you. If your dog does not come when called, they should be leashed.

Visitors

The above interaction is not recommended (as outlined in the article). Photo courtesy of Heather Howell, LVT, RVT, MBA.

Visitors can mean more excitement and activity in the house. Visiting children may have little experience or be overly comfortable with dogs, leading to inappropriate interactions. Even kid-savvy dogs may be uncomfortable sharing their home and space, leading to a growl or bite. When visitors with children come over, use the dog’s safe haven, and keep them away from the excitement.

Avoid Punishment

When creating happy, peaceful relationships between children and dogs, punishment is never appropriate. In scary situations, punishing a frightened dog can ruin relationships and doesn’t change the underlying issue.

Safety is the priority when managing relationships between dogs and children. If you are having a hard time creating positive interactions or your dog has shown aggression, contact a behavior professional for assistance.

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