Stationing Your Dog for Nail Trims

August 26, 2022 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

When your dog offers a consent behavior, they are giving permission for something to happen. It is the “green light” that communicates your dog is ready to participate in a procedure. If they move out of position, it is the “red light” to stop. Training consent behaviors builds confidence, promotes force-free learning, and increases your pet’s cooperation.

Stationing is beneficial for nail trims as well as veterinary and husbandry procedures. The goal of stationing your dog for nail trims is four paws on the yoga or non-slip bathmat, couch, chair, or low platform.  Choose a station that is comfortable and secure, so your pet does not slip or slide. Platforms should be easy for your pet to get on and off. Sit works well for front paws and a relaxed down is beneficial to trim both front and back paws.

When your dog is in position on the station, consent training begins. They can leave the station when they want to stop the training session, proceeding when the dog chooses to return. To teach this behavior, reward for small steps towards the goal.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

If you begin with a mat, place it on the ground or onto the elevated surface. Mark and treat the dog for any movement toward the mat. Treats can be placed onto the mat to encourage the dog to go onto the mat quickly.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

  

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Mark and treat as your dog places each additional paw on the mat, until all four paws are in position.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

A relaxed down on the station is ideal to access front and back paws easily for nail trimming. Mark and treat your dog for sitting on the mat and place the treat on the mat in front of their paws. A food lure can be used to help guide them into a sit position.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

  

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Continue to mark and treat your dog as they move their front paws forward into a down position. If they need additional help, lure into the down position by placing a treat near their nose, moving it downward to the ground, and then away from their paws in an “L” position.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

In the relaxed down, mark and treat the dog for 3-5 repetitions when they are resting on one hip. Then toss the treat off the mat so they can repeat the pattern of moving onto the mat, then into the down position. Tossing treats off the station is encouraged to give your dog a break and to offer them a choice to participate by returning to the station.

If a lure is used to guide the dog into a down position, fade the lure as soon as possible. Pretend to have a treat in your hand and guide the dog into position. Mark for the down position, feed the treat, then toss the next treat away from the station. Wait to see if your dog will offer the behavior on their own, then mark and reward.  This may take several repetitions.

With practice, your dog will offer a relaxed down on the station as the “green light” consent behavior to begin paw handling and eventually trim nails. If your dog leaves the mat and chooses to return, give a reward as soon as they step onto the mat. Once they station consistently during training, paw handling and nail trims can be trained using this consent indicator. This behavior is not often placed on a verbal cue since the station, nail trimmers and the position of the owner’s body become the cues for nail trimming.

How to Teach Your Dog to Come to You

August 17, 2022 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Trainer

By Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Robin responds to hearing his name.

Photo Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA, CTP

Recall training should create memories of fun, fast returns to you. A recall taught with positive reinforcement is fun for your puppy or newly adopted dog and is a great way to bond with them.

Start teaching your puppy this life-saving skill when you bring them home. Training recalls and building good habits require high-value rewards: special treats, games, or praise and play.

Begin training recalls in the house at a distance of one to two feet. Always show excitement when they come to you to establish happy associations. Do not expect your dog to run to you successfully from 100 yards without getting distracted. Add distance slowly. 

Teach recalls using games to create a strong, positive association. These games can be played for a few minutes daily and should be fun for you and your dog. Change up games so your dog is comfortable and is having fun or make them more challenging by playing in a new location.

  • Name Game. This is a perfect game to start practicing recalls and the rules are simple. Say your dog’s name or nickname and give a treat. They do not need to come to you or even look at you. Do this a few times a day and your dog will learn that when they hear their name, something good happens. Try playing in different rooms or outside in the yard.
  • Catch Me Game. This is a fun game that can be played in just a few minutes with a pocketful of treats. Play in the house or a fenced-in yard and begin by walking around without calling your dog. When your dog comes within reach, give them a treat and move away. If they “catch” you by coming within arm’s reach, reward them. 
  • Chase Me Game. Toss a treat on a towel or in a bowl and allow your dog to eat the treat. As they finish the treat, turn, and quickly move away. When your dog catches you, give a treat and move away again. Once they are quick to come to you for the treat, start calling their name as they are running to you.
  • Your Dog’s Favorite Game. Offer to play their favorite game, such as tug or ball. Call your dog close to you for safety using their favorite tricks or hand targeting. Food toys such as snuffle mats are a fun reward for fast recalls. Focus on your dog and have high-value treats when practicing recalls. Set your dog up for success by keeping the training sessions short and fun. If bored, your dog may seek entertainment elsewhere. Running back to you should always be met with a celebration. If you ignore or scold your dog for returning to you, the recall may become slow or stop happening.
Robin knows his treat is soon to follow.

Photo Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA, CTP

Begin teaching recalls inside the house. As your dog continues to successfully return to you, practice in the yard where there are a few more distractions. As they continue to do well, add more distractions by changing the location. Keep in mind you may need to adjust the treats, time of day, or location if:

  • Your dog hesitates to return;
  • Your dog loses interest;
  • Your dog stops and sniffs.

Some dogs learn that running away is more fun than coming back. Once a dog has started chasing livestock, visiting the neighbor’s dog, or eating trash, they are more likely to continue these behaviors because they are fun. Keep your dog leashed or fenced.

  • Do not allow an untrained dog to run off leash. 
  • Do not call them to you for a scolding. This will teach the dog that coming to you means something bad will happen.
  • Do not call them to you to do something they would dislike, such as taking them to the bathtub. 
  • Do not practice more than two to three times per session or it will become boring and create bad memories. Even if your dog appears to be enjoying the game, stop while they are having fun. 
  • Do not expect long-distance recalls until smaller distances are successful.  

Recall training should be fun. If your dog does not recall reliably, please contact a qualified positive reinforcement-based trainer or board-certified veterinarian.  

Teaching Your Dog To Lie on Their Side for Nail Trims

August 5, 2022 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Shelter Worker Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Training consent behaviors builds confidence, promotes force-free learning, and increases your pet’s cooperation. When your dog offers a consent behavior they are giving permission for something to happen. It is the “green light” that communicates your dog is ready to participate in a procedure. If they move out of position, it is the “red light” to stop. 

Lateral recumbency is the positioning of an animal on their side with their head on the ground. In this position, it is easy to see and access the paws for nail trims.  Your dog can be taught this position as a consent behavior, and it may be done on a mat on the ground or an elevated surface such as a couch. Your dog shows willingness to cooperate for a nail trim by moving into this position. Lifting their head off the ground is an indication to stop the procedure. Continue paw handling and nail trims when they place their head back down.

Choose a mat or other comfortable surface to teach this behavior. Lure your dog into a down position, mark and treat:

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Hold a treat near your dog’s nose and move the treat from their nose toward their shoulder, then mark and treat once they shift onto their hip into a relaxed down position:

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Hold a treat near your dog’s nose and move it slowly toward their ribs/mid-spine area. Your dog should shift onto their shoulder. Then mark and treat:

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Hold a treat near your dog’s nose and move it in a circle from their nose, over the shoulder, and up and over the back area then back to the nose. Your dog should move onto their shoulder and place their head onto the ground. Mark and treat:

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Dogs may have difficulty moving downward from elbow to shoulder. Placing a pillow behind the shoulder closest to the ground helps minimize the distance between your dog’s head and the ground and may be more comfortable for them:

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Go at your dog’s pace. Dogs may spend multiple sessions working on the same step before progressing.

Since the mat, the nail trimmers, and position of your body become contextual cues, verbal cues may not be used for lateral positioning. When your dog offers the position at least 80 percent of the time in one session, then paw handling and nail trims can be trained using this consent behavior.

Puzzle Toys for Your Dog

July 27, 2022 • Ask LSH Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker

By Breanna Norris, KPA CTP

Food Puzzles

Photo Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

Food toys are not always better just because they last longer and not all dogs will like all puzzles. Since they are for your dog’s enjoyment, the toys should not be difficult or frustrating and your dog will decide which games they like.

Your dog may not bother trying a frustrating game. Easy ones with quick wins can be a way to introduce your dog to food puzzles. Your newly adopted shelter dog or young puppy may seem scared of a food toy so make sure it is an appropriate choice.

At 8 weeks old, a puppy may not like a puzzle but might prefer licking toys. A week later, try the puzzles again with a teaspoon of wet dog food and your dog may give it a chance.

Start with easy food toys and games and modify as needed. A dog who is sound sensitive will not want a toy that creates a lot of noise, and a dog who has never used their paws or mouth to manipulate a toy may not like one that keeps rolling away.

Puzzle toys can be easy and low-cost. These games can be very successful and only last a few minutes:

  • throw kibble on the grass;
  • roll up kibble in a rug or towel;
  • toss treats in a low-sided cardboard box;
  • smear wet food on a licking mat;
  • sprinkle food in a snuffle mat or a muffin tin. 
Willy with a Licking Pad.

Photo Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

If your dog has enjoyed quick, easy games and you think they would enjoy some more complex ones, add some variation. A puzzle toy stuffed with your dog’s soaked kibble or wet dog food and then frozen can be more challenging.

If your dog is leaving food in the toy, the game might not be right for your dog. Start simply with a small amount of food in the puzzle toy, or just a few treats in the grass or on a towel, and when they finish all the treats, add more. This can be a fun way to introduce food toys to dogs and make it a social game with you.

When using food puzzle toys:

  • separate multiple dogs so they do not compete for them;
  • supervise your dog so they do not destroy them;
  • make sure they are the appropriate size for your dog;
  • clean them thoroughly after each use;
  • use food that is safe and appropriate for your dog.

   

   

Cat Low Stress Handling® Blood Draw Visit: Moment of Truth

July 11, 2022 • Behavior Bytes Cats I am a... Pet Owner Veterinary Professional

#1 Cupcake gets ready for the blood draw.

Photo Courtesy of Tabitha Kucera, RVT, CCBC, KPA-CTP

Many cats are afraid at the veterinary hospital which can make it difficult, if not impossible, to examine the cat and provide the best care possible. Changes in temperature, heart rate, respiratory rate, blood pressure, and even blood glucose can occur, making it hard to determine if the cat is ill or in distress.

In addition to a physical exam, some cats require bloodwork to diagnose a disease or monitor their overall health. Drawing a cat’s blood can be a challenging process when they are afraid or uncomfortable. The good news is veterinary professionals can use these Low Stress Handling® techniques to minimize the cat’s distress during this procedure. 

Step 1: Setting up the room

• The client can bring in the cat’s bed from home as well as their favorite treats.
• Before starting, make sure all needed items for the exam and blood draw are in the room to minimize entering and exiting. This will help to decrease wait times and give an opportunity for the cat to acclimate to the room.
• A non-slip mat should be placed on the table to provide warmth and traction when the procedure is performed.
• The cat’s favorite food can be offered prior, during, and after this procedure. You can also use petting or play if the cat enjoys this.
• Play classical music to help minimize stressful sounds throughout the hospital. If your hospital doesn’t offer this, you could play it from your phone or other device in the room with the cat.

Step 2: Prepping for the blood draw

• When choosing a location for a blood draw, consider where the cat is most comfortable, as well as avoiding any sensitive or painful areas.
• Prior to the blood draw, topical lidocaine can be applied to the location on the leg where the needle will be placed.
• Find the position in which the cat is most comfortable. For many, this may be the sternal position (see picture #1).
• A small amount of alcohol can be applied with gauze or cotton balls. Using a spray bottle to apply alcohol can be scary to some cats. Others may find the smell unpleasant.
• As an alternative, water or chlorhexidine may be used.

#2 Rear legs are gently turned while allowing Cupcake to remain in a natural sternal position.

Photo Courtesy of Tabitha Kucera, RVT, CCBC, KPA-CTP
#3 Cupcake’s attention is focused on the lick mat, not what’s happening elsewhere.

Photo Courtesy of Tabitha Kucera, RVT, CCBC, KPA-CTP

Step 3: Restraint

• Support the cat’s entire body when positioning for the blood draw.
• Adjust handling based on each cat and their individual response to restraint.
• The cat’s rear legs should be gently turned while allowing the cat to remain in a natural sternal position (see picture #2).
• The technician or assistant should avoid excessive restraint or stretching the cat into unnatural and painful positions. Excessive restraint results in resistance. Pulling and stretching legs can be painful and uncomfortable. The cat may begin to resist and exhibits stress because the position is not natural and can cause pain.
• Apply gentle pressure to the leg when holding off the vein.
• Continuous petting around the head and neck can be used to encourage the cat to maintain their chosen position (if they enjoy petting).
• Allow the cat to hide if they prefer.
• The person restraining should not loom over the cat or continuously stare, which may cause the cat to be uncomfortable.
• Communication between the person drawing blood and the person restraining the cat is important, especially as the needle is removed. This allows for the person restraining the cat to apply slight pressure to the blood draw site and gives the cat an opportunity to readjust and maintain a comfortable position. (see photo #3)

Continually assess body language to make sure the cat is experiencing minimal stress throughout the entire procedure.

How to Prepare Your Cat for a Low Stress Handling® Blood Draw Visit

June 23, 2022 • Cats CattleDog Publishing Newsletter I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Veterinary Professional

Veterinary visits can be stressful for everyone, especially cats. Using the “less-is-more” approach, Low Stress Handling® Principles of Handling provides an opportunity for you to help your veterinarian perform a safer and more thorough physical exam along with any necessary diagnostics (blood draws, radiographs, ultrasound) needed to diagnose and treat your cat appropriately.

These Principals of Handling include:

Greetings

• Avoid staring and direct approach.
• Move calmly and speak in quiet tones.
• Do not invade personal space. Always invite your cat into your space.
• Use distractions and rewards like food, brushing, and play.

The Carrier

• Carry the carrier from the bottom, not the handle: This allows your cat to feel more stable and minimizes back and forth movement, which reduces nausea and discomfort while also decreasing the risk of the carrier breaking and your cat getting loose.
• Cover the carrier with a pheromone-infused towel.
• Always elevate the carrier off the floor in the waiting room.
• Place the carrier on the table or floor in the exam room.
• Do not dump, tip, or shake the carrier.
• Open the door and allow an opportunity for your cat to exit on their own.
• Use treats and/or toys to lure the cat out of the carrier.
• If your cat does not come out of the carrier on their own, remove the lid before gently lifting your cat out of the carrier.

Comfortable Environment

• Perform the examination where your cat is most comfortable (owner’s lap, cat carrier).
• Have everything already in the room needed for the visit (blood collection kit, vaccinations, equipment for examination, etc.) before starting.
• Do not continually enter and exit the room.
• Be mindful of sights, smells, and sounds (i.e., avoid barking dogs) that may cause distress.

Use Appropriate or Minimal Restraint

• Always support your cat well and have your hands, arms, and body positioned appropriately so your cat will not feel as if they will fall or are off-balance.
• Adjust your handling based on each cat and their individual response to restraint.
• Be mindful of painful joints and temperature changes (i.e., cold stainless-steel tables)
• Avoid prolonged struggling. More than 1-2 seconds or repeated handling adjustments, consider pre-visit medications or sedation depending on what “needs” to be done that day.
• Avoid unnatural, uncomfortable, or painful positions when possible.
• Do not reposition the cat by pulling on legs, ears, tail, skin, or fur.

Body Language

• Assess body language and adjust handling techniques based on the animal’s individual preference.
• Assess yourself. Our behavior and body language affect the patient’s emotional state.
• Less is often more.

Towel restraint

• There are 6 different types of towel wraps.
• Each towel restraint method requires practice and patience before use.
• Different wraps can be used for various procedures including blood collection, subcutaneous fluid administration, catheter placement, and injections.

Thoughtful changes in the hospital set-up along with a more individualized handling and restraint plan can go a long way in providing a more positive experience at the veterinary hospital for both you and your cat.

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