Understanding Your Dog’s Body Language

September 22, 2022 • Behavior Bytes CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Student Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Samantha Zurlinden, Veterinary Student Class of 2023

This labrador appears relaxed, lying down and overall loose. Ears and eyes are in a neutral position and the facial features are relaxed. The tail is resting on the ground.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

Observing, understanding, and respecting body language is essential to strengthen and maintain the relationship with your dog. By understanding their needs, you can provide the best care and know when your dog is comfortable in a situation. Accurately interpreting body language can help you live safely with dogs and avoid behavior problems that could harm your relationship. 

By watching your dog, you will see them use their body position, ears, eyes, tail, lips, and vocalizations to communicate with you and the world around them. 

Relaxed Dog Body Language

A relaxed dog has “loose” body language. Their ears may be in a neutral position or forward if attentive and alert. Their eyes should be soft, not fixed on a particular object or staring. Their tail will be in a neutral position or wagging widely from side to side. Their mouth will look relaxed, not clenched or tense.  

Attentive Dog Body Language

In this photo, the same dog is still attentive, alert with forward ears but their overall posture is more tense. Their jaw is tightly closed, and lips are tense, possibly watching something worrisome.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

An attentive, alert dog holds their ears forward and upright. Evaluate your dog’s entire body since their ears are only a part of the picture. Your dog could be attentive and in a positive emotional state during a training session with forward ears and an upright tail. Instead, they could be hypervigilant to an approaching stranger with ears forward, looking around quickly and assessing their surroundings. A tucked tail may indicate anxiety. They may have a front paw lifted while deciding whether to move toward something or away from something. They may be watching a squirrel with their ears forward, eyes focused and staring, the tail up and only wagging slightly at the tip. Their hair may be standing along the midline of their back indicating a state of attentiveness.  

Fearful Dog Body Language

If subtle signs of fear and anxiety are recognized and addressed early, obvious signs of fear and aggression can be avoided.  If ignored, their body language may escalate because the dog learns their previous subtle signs are not effective, causing behavior problems and safety concerns. 

Subtle fearful signs include lip licking, facial tensing, hair raising especially along the midline of the back, ears positioned backward and flattened, and eyes wide open. They may avoid eye contact and the tail may be tucked under the dog’s body. 

A Final Note About Respecting Body Language

Consider safety first when signs of fear, anxiety, or aggression are seen. Punishment is not a humane or effective strategy and could potentially worsen the behavior problem. If you need help with managing these situations, work with a qualified behavior professional. Click on the link to learn more: How to Identify a Qualified Trainer or Behavior Professional. 

This dog is showing subtle signs of fear. The dog is licking their lips, and their ears are held back. Overall, the body appears tense.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

This dog is showing escalating signs of fear. Their body is tucked and tense with pinned back ears, tightly closed mouth, tucked tail, and wide eyes with an averted gaze.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

More obvious signs of fear and aggression include baring of the teeth, growling, snapping, or biting. Here, the dog’s ears are pinned back and the body is tense. Their eyes are wide open with the white part of the eye showing, known as “whale eye”. Although the tail is not seen in this photograph, it is likely either tucked under their body or upright.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

This dog is showing overt signs of aggression. Their teeth are bared, their ears are erect and forward, and their body is tense.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

Can Cats Be Trained?

September 21, 2022 • Ask LSH Cats I am a... Pet Owner Trainer

By Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

Photo Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

Q.  My cat has food, clean litter boxes, and toys everywhere, but she attacks my wife when we are sitting at the kitchen table. What can we do?

A.  If some cats attack at times other than during play, they might be trying to get attention and do not know how to communicate their intentions. Always discuss any new behavior changes with your veterinarian in case there are any underlying medical issues.

Some cats prefer interactive play with their owners. Toys on the floor are often not interesting since they don’t move. Cats are natural hunters and enjoy sudden movement, chase, and capture. If the owner starts shaking the toy for their cat to run and leap after, then playtime is more exciting. Toys such as waving a feather on a stick or tossing brightly colored plastic coil springs or furry mice are easy ways to build a good relationship between cats and their owners.

Many cats easily learn tricks and enjoy doing them, providing both physical and mental enrichment. Stationing to a mat is useful for carrier training, redirecting cats off counters or targeting to a spot for attention or grooming.

Using positive reinforcement, cats can be taught to fetch and retrieve, jump through hoops, sit, high five or perform any alternative behavior to replace unwanted ones. Training provides enrichment and a communication opportunity for your cat. 

Stationing Your Dog for Nail Trims

August 26, 2022 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

When your dog offers a consent behavior, they are giving permission for something to happen. It is the “green light” that communicates your dog is ready to participate in a procedure. If they move out of position, it is the “red light” to stop. Training consent behaviors builds confidence, promotes force-free learning, and increases your pet’s cooperation.

Stationing is beneficial for nail trims as well as veterinary and husbandry procedures. The goal of stationing your dog for nail trims is four paws on the yoga or non-slip bathmat, couch, chair, or low platform.  Choose a station that is comfortable and secure, so your pet does not slip or slide. Platforms should be easy for your pet to get on and off. Sit works well for front paws and a relaxed down is beneficial to trim both front and back paws.

When your dog is in position on the station, consent training begins. They can leave the station when they want to stop the training session, proceeding when the dog chooses to return. To teach this behavior, reward for small steps towards the goal.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

If you begin with a mat, place it on the ground or onto the elevated surface. Mark and treat the dog for any movement toward the mat. Treats can be placed onto the mat to encourage the dog to go onto the mat quickly.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

  

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Mark and treat as your dog places each additional paw on the mat, until all four paws are in position.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

A relaxed down on the station is ideal to access front and back paws easily for nail trimming. Mark and treat your dog for sitting on the mat and place the treat on the mat in front of their paws. A food lure can be used to help guide them into a sit position.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

  

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Continue to mark and treat your dog as they move their front paws forward into a down position. If they need additional help, lure into the down position by placing a treat near their nose, moving it downward to the ground, and then away from their paws in an “L” position.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

In the relaxed down, mark and treat the dog for 3-5 repetitions when they are resting on one hip. Then toss the treat off the mat so they can repeat the pattern of moving onto the mat, then into the down position. Tossing treats off the station is encouraged to give your dog a break and to offer them a choice to participate by returning to the station.

If a lure is used to guide the dog into a down position, fade the lure as soon as possible. Pretend to have a treat in your hand and guide the dog into position. Mark for the down position, feed the treat, then toss the next treat away from the station. Wait to see if your dog will offer the behavior on their own, then mark and reward.  This may take several repetitions.

With practice, your dog will offer a relaxed down on the station as the “green light” consent behavior to begin paw handling and eventually trim nails. If your dog leaves the mat and chooses to return, give a reward as soon as they step onto the mat. Once they station consistently during training, paw handling and nail trims can be trained using this consent indicator. This behavior is not often placed on a verbal cue since the station, nail trimmers and the position of the owner’s body become the cues for nail trimming.

How to Teach Your Dog to Come to You

August 17, 2022 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Trainer

By Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Robin responds to hearing his name.

Photo Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA, CTP

Recall training should create memories of fun, fast returns to you. A recall taught with positive reinforcement is fun for your puppy or newly adopted dog and is a great way to bond with them.

Start teaching your puppy this life-saving skill when you bring them home. Training recalls and building good habits require high-value rewards: special treats, games, or praise and play.

Begin training recalls in the house at a distance of one to two feet. Always show excitement when they come to you to establish happy associations. Do not expect your dog to run to you successfully from 100 yards without getting distracted. Add distance slowly. 

Teach recalls using games to create a strong, positive association. These games can be played for a few minutes daily and should be fun for you and your dog. Change up games so your dog is comfortable and is having fun or make them more challenging by playing in a new location.

  • Name Game. This is a perfect game to start practicing recalls and the rules are simple. Say your dog’s name or nickname and give a treat. They do not need to come to you or even look at you. Do this a few times a day and your dog will learn that when they hear their name, something good happens. Try playing in different rooms or outside in the yard.
  • Catch Me Game. This is a fun game that can be played in just a few minutes with a pocketful of treats. Play in the house or a fenced-in yard and begin by walking around without calling your dog. When your dog comes within reach, give them a treat and move away. If they “catch” you by coming within arm’s reach, reward them. 
  • Chase Me Game. Toss a treat on a towel or in a bowl and allow your dog to eat the treat. As they finish the treat, turn, and quickly move away. When your dog catches you, give a treat and move away again. Once they are quick to come to you for the treat, start calling their name as they are running to you.
  • Your Dog’s Favorite Game. Offer to play their favorite game, such as tug or ball. Call your dog close to you for safety using their favorite tricks or hand targeting. Food toys such as snuffle mats are a fun reward for fast recalls. Focus on your dog and have high-value treats when practicing recalls. Set your dog up for success by keeping the training sessions short and fun. If bored, your dog may seek entertainment elsewhere. Running back to you should always be met with a celebration. If you ignore or scold your dog for returning to you, the recall may become slow or stop happening.
Robin knows his treat is soon to follow.

Photo Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA, CTP

Begin teaching recalls inside the house. As your dog continues to successfully return to you, practice in the yard where there are a few more distractions. As they continue to do well, add more distractions by changing the location. Keep in mind you may need to adjust the treats, time of day, or location if:

  • Your dog hesitates to return;
  • Your dog loses interest;
  • Your dog stops and sniffs.

Some dogs learn that running away is more fun than coming back. Once a dog has started chasing livestock, visiting the neighbor’s dog, or eating trash, they are more likely to continue these behaviors because they are fun. Keep your dog leashed or fenced.

  • Do not allow an untrained dog to run off leash. 
  • Do not call them to you for a scolding. This will teach the dog that coming to you means something bad will happen.
  • Do not call them to you to do something they would dislike, such as taking them to the bathtub. 
  • Do not practice more than two to three times per session or it will become boring and create bad memories. Even if your dog appears to be enjoying the game, stop while they are having fun. 
  • Do not expect long-distance recalls until smaller distances are successful.  

Recall training should be fun. If your dog does not recall reliably, please contact a qualified positive reinforcement-based trainer or board-certified veterinarian.  

Teaching Your Dog To Lie on Their Side for Nail Trims

August 5, 2022 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Shelter Worker Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Training consent behaviors builds confidence, promotes force-free learning, and increases your pet’s cooperation. When your dog offers a consent behavior they are giving permission for something to happen. It is the “green light” that communicates your dog is ready to participate in a procedure. If they move out of position, it is the “red light” to stop. 

Lateral recumbency is the positioning of an animal on their side with their head on the ground. In this position, it is easy to see and access the paws for nail trims.  Your dog can be taught this position as a consent behavior, and it may be done on a mat on the ground or an elevated surface such as a couch. Your dog shows willingness to cooperate for a nail trim by moving into this position. Lifting their head off the ground is an indication to stop the procedure. Continue paw handling and nail trims when they place their head back down.

Choose a mat or other comfortable surface to teach this behavior. Lure your dog into a down position, mark and treat:

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Hold a treat near your dog’s nose and move the treat from their nose toward their shoulder, then mark and treat once they shift onto their hip into a relaxed down position:

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Hold a treat near your dog’s nose and move it slowly toward their ribs/mid-spine area. Your dog should shift onto their shoulder. Then mark and treat:

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Hold a treat near your dog’s nose and move it in a circle from their nose, over the shoulder, and up and over the back area then back to the nose. Your dog should move onto their shoulder and place their head onto the ground. Mark and treat:

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Dogs may have difficulty moving downward from elbow to shoulder. Placing a pillow behind the shoulder closest to the ground helps minimize the distance between your dog’s head and the ground and may be more comfortable for them:

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Go at your dog’s pace. Dogs may spend multiple sessions working on the same step before progressing.

Since the mat, the nail trimmers, and position of your body become contextual cues, verbal cues may not be used for lateral positioning. When your dog offers the position at least 80 percent of the time in one session, then paw handling and nail trims can be trained using this consent behavior.

Puzzle Toys for Your Dog

July 27, 2022 • Ask LSH Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker

By Breanna Norris, KPA CTP

Food Puzzles

Photo Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

Food toys are not always better just because they last longer and not all dogs will like all puzzles. Since they are for your dog’s enjoyment, the toys should not be difficult or frustrating and your dog will decide which games they like.

Your dog may not bother trying a frustrating game. Easy ones with quick wins can be a way to introduce your dog to food puzzles. Your newly adopted shelter dog or young puppy may seem scared of a food toy so make sure it is an appropriate choice.

At 8 weeks old, a puppy may not like a puzzle but might prefer licking toys. A week later, try the puzzles again with a teaspoon of wet dog food and your dog may give it a chance.

Start with easy food toys and games and modify as needed. A dog who is sound sensitive will not want a toy that creates a lot of noise, and a dog who has never used their paws or mouth to manipulate a toy may not like one that keeps rolling away.

Puzzle toys can be easy and low-cost. These games can be very successful and only last a few minutes:

  • throw kibble on the grass;
  • roll up kibble in a rug or towel;
  • toss treats in a low-sided cardboard box;
  • smear wet food on a licking mat;
  • sprinkle food in a snuffle mat or a muffin tin. 
Willy with a Licking Pad.

Photo Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

If your dog has enjoyed quick, easy games and you think they would enjoy some more complex ones, add some variation. A puzzle toy stuffed with your dog’s soaked kibble or wet dog food and then frozen can be more challenging.

If your dog is leaving food in the toy, the game might not be right for your dog. Start simply with a small amount of food in the puzzle toy, or just a few treats in the grass or on a towel, and when they finish all the treats, add more. This can be a fun way to introduce food toys to dogs and make it a social game with you.

When using food puzzle toys:

  • separate multiple dogs so they do not compete for them;
  • supervise your dog so they do not destroy them;
  • make sure they are the appropriate size for your dog;
  • clean them thoroughly after each use;
  • use food that is safe and appropriate for your dog.

   

   

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