Understanding Your Dog’s Body Language

This labrador appears relaxed, lying down and overall loose. Ears and eyes are in a neutral position and the facial features are relaxed. The tail is resting on the ground.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

Observing, understanding, and respecting body language is essential to strengthen and maintain the relationship with your dog. By understanding their needs, you can provide the best care and know when your dog is comfortable in a situation. Accurately interpreting body language can help you live safely with dogs and avoid behavior problems that could harm your relationship. 

By watching your dog, you will see them use their body position, ears, eyes, tail, lips, and vocalizations to communicate with you and the world around them. 

Relaxed Dog Body Language

A relaxed dog has “loose” body language. Their ears may be in a neutral position or forward if attentive and alert. Their eyes should be soft, not fixed on a particular object or staring. Their tail will be in a neutral position or wagging widely from side to side. Their mouth will look relaxed, not clenched or tense.  

Attentive Dog Body Language

In this photo, the same dog is still attentive, alert with forward ears but their overall posture is more tense. Their jaw is tightly closed, and lips are tense, possibly watching something worrisome.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

An attentive, alert dog holds their ears forward and upright. Evaluate your dog’s entire body since their ears are only a part of the picture. Your dog could be attentive and in a positive emotional state during a training session with forward ears and an upright tail. Instead, they could be hypervigilant to an approaching stranger with ears forward, looking around quickly and assessing their surroundings. A tucked tail may indicate anxiety. They may have a front paw lifted while deciding whether to move toward something or away from something. They may be watching a squirrel with their ears forward, eyes focused and staring, the tail up and only wagging slightly at the tip. Their hair may be standing along the midline of their back indicating a state of attentiveness.  

Fearful Dog Body Language

If subtle signs of fear and anxiety are recognized and addressed early, obvious signs of fear and aggression can be avoided.  If ignored, their body language may escalate because the dog learns their previous subtle signs are not effective, causing behavior problems and safety concerns. 

Subtle fearful signs include lip licking, facial tensing, hair raising especially along the midline of the back, ears positioned backward and flattened, and eyes wide open. They may avoid eye contact and the tail may be tucked under the dog’s body. 

A Final Note About Respecting Body Language

Consider safety first when signs of fear, anxiety, or aggression are seen. Punishment is not a humane or effective strategy and could potentially worsen the behavior problem. If you need help with managing these situations, work with a qualified behavior professional. Click on the link to learn more: How to Identify a Qualified Trainer or Behavior Professional

This dog is showing subtle signs of fear. The dog is licking their lips, and their ears are held back. Overall, the body appears tense.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

This dog is showing escalating signs of fear. Their body is tucked and tense with pinned back ears, tightly closed mouth, tucked tail, and wide eyes with an averted gaze.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

More obvious signs of fear and aggression include baring of the teeth, growling, snapping, or biting. Here, the dog’s ears are pinned back and the body is tense. Their eyes are wide open with the white part of the eye showing, known as “whale eye”. Although the tail is not seen in this photograph, it is likely either tucked under their body or upright.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

This dog is showing overt signs of aggression. Their teeth are bared, their ears are erect and forward, and their body is tense.
Photo Courtesy of VIN/Canto Library

Can I Manage My Dog’s Behavior Long Term?

Photo Image of a grey and white dog jumping on a person while another person watches

Q: I started working with a new dog trainer, and the first lesson discussed management strategies to keep my chihuahua from jumping on visitors. This has already been working well. Do I need to continue with training?

A: This is not a simple yes or no answer. Management is a critical first step for any training or behavior modification process. To stop your dog from practicing undesirable behaviors, change the events or the antecedents leading up to that behavior. Think of dominoes lined up in a row. If you do not want them to fall, you need to identify what starts the tumbling chain. Change your focus from what your dog does that you do not like, and imagine how you want them to act. This change will help you become proactive to your dog’s behavior instead of reactive.

A white dog stands on hind legs behind a pet barrier

Change the environment to set your dog up for success. Before the first guest arrives, have your dog in their safe space so they do not get overexcited and start jumping. Baby gates or exercise pens can be easily set up for your dog if they like to be nearby and remain calm. Give them a food puzzle toy or long-lasting chew to entertain them so they are not frustrated by the barriers. Guests can toss a treat to your dog behind the gate to reward for calm behavior or sitting or lying down.

Photo image of a yellow dog resting quietly on a mat within an open pet enclosure

Training would take this process further than management strategies alone by teaching your dog alternative behaviors. Cue your dog to sit and reward them in that position before they lift their front feet to jump on a visitor. You could also teach your dog to lie down or go to their bed away from visitors or behind a gate. Nose targeting can also be used to redirect them from jumping by offering your hand low and having them follow the target hand to another location away from company. If management strategies, such as sending your dog to their safe space, are working well for you and your dog, further training is not necessary.

Options for Exercising Your Dog

December 10, 2024Veterinary Professional

Photo image of a black and white dog playing on green grass

When it comes to getting fresh air and exercise for your dog, you have plenty of options. However, some of the most popular choices might not be the best fit for every dog.

Dog Parks

Dog parks are a popular choice because they let your dog run off-leash. When visiting dog parks, consider the following:

  • These areas are best if your dog is friendly and comfortable around other dogs.
  • Advocate for your dog and remove them if there are concerning behaviors from others.       
  • Only fully vaccinated puppies should go to dog parks.
  • Your older dog should be current on vaccines.

Sniffari Leash Walk

A great way to exercise your dog is to go on a “sniffari.” Use an eight-to-10-foot leash and let your dog sniff around a quiet part of the neighborhood. Sniffing is relaxing and takes a lot of mental energy. A front clip harness can help with being pulled by an enthusiastic sniffer.

On a sniffari, think about how much time you have instead of how far you want to go. Distance does not matter with this kind of walk. If you have 30 minutes, walk one way for 15 minutes, then turn around and head home. You can go on a sniffari anywhere: your backyard, a trail, or even in the city. Adding some simple games, like the Up Down game every so often can help your dog stay focused even when there are distractions.

Photo image of Dr. Sophia Yin playing with a grey-an-white dog on green grass

Daycare 

Daycare can be a good place to send your dog when you cannot give them time or attention during the day. Puppies, for example, need play and potty breaks during the day, so daycare can help with that if you find the right place. However, daycare can sometimes be overwhelming for dogs, with too much excitement and insufficient time to rest. It can also be stressful if your dog is not used to the noise and activity of a daycare environment. When looking for a daycare, check for:

  • experienced and qualified staff,
  • vaccine requirements,
  • cleaning protocols,
  • small playgroups with lots of supervision,
  • extra activities for enrichment.

Photo image of two springer spaniels in a clean and bright run

Rest Time at Daycare

When it comes to rest time, think about what that looks like at daycare:

  • Are dogs put in crates? If so, can your dog relax in a crate away from home?
  • Are kennels used? Has your dog been in a kennel before?
  • Are dogs put in a room together to relax? Can your dog calm down around other dogs?

It might sound great to have your dog play hard for hours, so they come home tired, but this kind of play can be hard on their body and brain. Too much high-energy play can lead to stress and anxiety over time. Also, it is normal for dogs to “age out” of daycare. They may enjoy it as puppies or young dogs, but as they get older, they may prefer to relax at home. At that point, hiring a midday dog walker could be a better choice.

Photo image of a collie and handler taking a hurdle

Training and Brain Games 

Training can be a great way to exercise your dog. Like sniffing, training takes a lot of mental energy and can tire a dog out even faster than play. There are many types of training. Basic obedience is usually the first thing we think of, but there are other types that you and your dog might enjoy and benefit from. You could teach your dog a new trick, play a fun game together, or try beginner-level sports matching your dog’s breed.

If your dog still struggles with loose leash walking, try other types of training to make it fun and challenging for their brain. Dogs that have trouble relaxing at home might need less physical exercise and more mental exercise to help them settle. Getting your dog to use their brain can make it easier for them to relax and rest.

Photo image of a black lab holding a green fetch stick

Fetch

Fetch is a fun game for both dogs and people. But the running, quick turns, and high jumps can be hard on a dog’s body, especially if fetch is played often. Some dogs also find it hard to calm down after fetch, so it might not be the best game for dogs who struggle to relax after play.

If you want to play fetch with your dog, try setting some boundaries, such as:

  • Start with a relaxation game before throwing the ball. “The Off Switch Game” from Control Unleashed is a good way to teach this.
  • Throw the ball in the direction your dog is facing to avoid extra twists and turns.
  • Stop the game while your dog can still relax—this might mean only two or three throws before putting the ball away.
  • Limit fetch to once or twice a week to give your dog’s joints time to rest.

Voluntary Head Dunking

A black dog dunks his head in a bowl of water

This dog is voluntarily dunking their head. Images courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHC-S

Teaching your dog to voluntarily dunk their head after exercise can help them cool down and clear their nose and eyes of debris. Research published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA) suggests this innovative method can help keep dogs safe in hot weather. A study conducted at the Penn Vet Working Dog Center at the University of Pennsylvania examined cooling techniques and found that voluntary head dunks were the most effective in quickly cooling dogs and preventing overheating or heat stroke.

When teaching a head dunk, the behavior should be voluntary and never forced. Creating a low-stress environment encourages engagement. Watch for subtle signs of stress, such as lip licking, shaking off, yawning, or scratching their neck, as these may indicate your dog is feeling uneasy. If your dog shows signs of stress, walks away, or stops engaging, stop the session. This may not be the right game for your dog.

Playing the Game

Introducing new, potentially challenging skills can be made easier using Pattern Games, which provide a predictable framework to help your dog understand what is happening and what to expect next. An adapted version of the Superbowls pattern game works well. 

Items Needed:

  • Seven target mats or plastic bowls
  • One snuffle mat
  • A clear bowl large enough to hold water deep enough for your dog’s head
  • A water pitcher
  • Treats that sink in water

A black dog with a red, white and blue snuffle mat

A snuffle mat. Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHC-S

Phase 1: Create the Superbowls pattern: 

  1. Arrange seven target mats in a straight line, spaced one to two feet apart. The 6th target should be a snuffle mat. If you do not have target mats, plastic bowls can work.
  2. Begin at the start of the line, before the first target. Practice three to five repetitions of the Up Down game to create a steady rhythm. Place a treat on the floor near your feet and stand up straight in a neutral position with your hands flat on your stomach or behind your back to minimize distraction. When your dog makes eye contact, mark with a clicker or “yes” and place a treat on the floor. If your dog struggles with eye contact, hold a treat near your eyes for one or two repetitions, then gradually reduce this lure as they start to make eye contact on their own.
  3. Once your dog is making eye contact consistently, step to the first target and place a treat on it. Stand up in a neutral position. When your dog makes eye contact, mark it and move to the next target, placing a treat on it. Continue this process down the line.
  4. When you arrive at the snuffle mat (target six), place two to three treats inside it. Once your dog finishes the treats and makes eye contact, mark the behavior and proceed to the final target in the row. To signal the end of the game, throw a few treats away from the line for your dog to chase.  

Phase 2: Introduce the empty bowl:

  1. Place the 5th target inside an empty bowl, then return it to its position on the line.
  2. Follow steps 2 through 4 in Phase 1. When you reach the 5th target in the bowl, place the treat on the target inside the bowl. Continue to the snuffle mat and finish the sequence as before. 

Phase 3: Add water to the bowl:

  1. Once your dog is familiar with the pattern, add a splash of water to the bottom of the bowl, just enough that it feels wet. Let your dog see you add the water.
  2. Start at the first target and repeat the process, moving through the stations as before.
  3. Each time, add a little more water to the bowl and observe your dog’s response. If they seem stressed, reduce the water level to make it less overwhelming.
  4. If your dog willingly takes the treat from the container of water, gradually add about half an inch of water to the bowl each training session. This slow adjustment will help build your dog’s confidence until they are willing to dunk their entire face into the water, including their eyes.  
  5. If your dog refuses to put their face in the bowl with water after they make eye contact, move on to the snuffle mat. If your dog continually refuses, consult a qualified behavior professional to determine if this game is suitable.

A black dog stands on a circular-shaped blue mat

Target mats can represent stations in the Superbowls line. Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHC-S

Phase 4: Remove the target line:

  1. Once your dog is comfortable dunking their head, remove the line of targets, leaving only the bowl and the snuffle mat.
  2. Position your dog next to the bowl and drop a treat inside. If your dog dunks their head to retrieve the treat, wait until they lift their head out of the water, then mark the behavior and reward them with two to three treats in the snuffle mat. If your dog hesitates, return to practicing with the target line. Once they are comfortable again, remove the target line and practice using the bowl and the snuffle mat.

Phase 5: Introduce the cue:  

  1. Drop the treat into the bowl. As your dog dips their head into the water, say “dunk” (or your chosen cue) and mark the behavior. Reward with two to three treats in the snuffle mat.
  2. When your dog reliably dunks their head three to five times, remove the target from the bowl and practice a few times over several days. Limit the number of dunks to three or four per session.
  3. Once your dog is familiar with the cue, ask them to dunk their head without placing a treat in the bowl. Say “dunk”, wait for your dog to dunk their head, and then reward with treats in the snuffle mat.
  4. If your dog does not respond to the cue, return to the earlier steps and repeat until they are comfortable dunking on cue.

Practice Makes Perfect

Once the behavior is learned, practice in different locations around the house and yard. You may need to reintroduce a few targets or use an empty bowl again. Eventually, you can use the bathtub, a kiddie pool, or even a clean stream or other cooling source.

Tips to Reduce Backyard Barking

November 14, 2024Ask LSH Shelter Worker

Photo of a white dog walking toward a chain-link fence with black barrier across

Image courtesy Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

Q:  My dog spends all his time in the yard, seemingly barking at nothing. This can’t be good for him, and it’s upsetting my neighbors. What can I do?

A:  Consider the causes of your dog’s barking. Are they triggered by neighbors, cars, passing dogs, wildlife, or smells? Maybe they are barking due to physical discomfort, such as pain from playing or standing outside. It may be raining or too hot, and they want to go back in. Your dog tries to communicate their feelings, so do not ignore the barking. Barking can be a self-reinforcing activity unless you interrupt the cycle.

Reduce visual and audible triggers when possible. Installing a solid fence set back from the road helps eliminate seeing passersby and creates distance from road sounds. Fence fabric for chain link fences or deck railings is a cheap and easy solution. Outdoor speakers could be placed along the fence at your dog’s height or ground level with calming music or talk radio playing softly.

In addition to blocking visual triggers, set up your dog’s play area away from the fence line. Provide a variety of enrichment such as a kiddie pool, dig box, agility equipment, a tug or tetherball setup. Some dogs are happy to entertain themselves, while others prefer your company.

Cream-colored dog playing with rope on a pole on green grass

Image courtesy Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

Consider rest time for them as well. Use food puzzle toys to promote relaxation as a break from physical play. If they have a known mat relaxation behavior, set up a cot or mat outside for them in a quiet, protected area of the yard. If possible, provide multiple resting areas: one in a shady area of the grass and another near you. Always offer access to fresh water and remove any objects that collect standing water. Keep the water bowl by the door to the house so it reinforces leaving the fence to return.

Tri-colored dog with green lick mat on a deck

Image courtesy Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

Training can be both enriching as well as task-oriented. Teach your dog to nose target and have them run to touch your hand, bringing them away from the fence. You can then toss a treat through the doorway into the house to reinforce coming inside. Teach your dog to turn away from the fence and triggers beyond by using Pattern Games such as Give Me a Break and 1-2-3.

Brown and grey dog lies on a white and grey mat on a deck

Image courtesy Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

Even with management in place and training and behavior modification exercises, intervention is needed for repeated barking. Bring them inside and only let them out during quiet times of the day to avoid overstimulation. When they are outside, stay with them to keep them engaged and distracted. Reducing or eliminating barking may decrease your dog’s stress level, as well as yours and your neighbors.

Pattern Games – A New Way to Help Change Behavior

Brown dog plays with a red white and blue toy

Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHS-C

Pattern Games are activities that help dogs learn specific skills. Some games help your dog move from point to point, some help your dog to relax, and others teach them to notice things around them. The main goal of Pattern Games is to help your dog process their environment and give them a set of behaviors to follow. This can be very helpful for dogs who get overstimulated, anxious or have trouble focusing in difficult situations. These games can also help your dog process new or exciting things, such as other dogs, cats, delivery trucks, or kids. Pattern Games also build confidence by giving your dog a chance to succeed in areas where they may have struggled before. One of the best resource on Pattern Games is Leslie McDevitt’s Control Unleashed book series.

You can teach Pattern Games almost anywhere, but it is best to start in a quiet, distraction-free space, especially if the caregiver is also learning. Start somewhere familiar where your dog feels relaxed and comfortable. Accepting treats shows that your dog is comfortable and engaged. Eating is part of the game and a behavior of its own. For example, licking peanut butter off a lick mat can be soothing as well as reinforcing the game. When learning Pattern Games, your dog should have the freedom to “opt-in” or “opt-out.” The game should be something your dog does voluntarily. Most games do not require cues, but you can use a word or click to mark a certain behavior.

  • A cue is a word that tells your dog what to do, such as “sit.”
  • A marker word is a signal, like saying “yes” or using a clicker, that lets your dog know they have performed the desired behavior and that reinforcement is coming.
  • A reinforcement is something your dog loves, such as a treat or toy.

Choosing the Right Pattern Games

Think about what your dog needs help with to find the right Pattern Games. Start foundation skills with games such as Take a Breath (TAB) and default behaviors like sit or mat work. These basic skills can be used in other games and are a great way to introduce this type of learning to your dog. If you need to improve engagement with your dog, try the Whiplash Turn game. This game helps strengthen your dog’s response to your name and their focus on you, even when there are distractions.

Photo image of a black and grey dog siting on a mat

Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHS-C

Opting-In and Opting-Out

Opting-in means that your dog is ready to play the game. If your dog is showing the behavior you want in the game, they are opting in, and you can mark and reward them. If your dog is opting-out during certain situations, it might mean they are overwhelmed and need to work in a quieter place or further away from the trigger.

Opting-out means the game is over. It is important to give your dog a way to opt-out of the game to avoid frustration. You can set up an opt-out station like a snuffle mat, lick mat, or crate (if your dog likes crates). If your dog stops playing, offers different behaviors than what you are asking for, or shows signs of stress such as scratching, shaking off, or lip licking, they can go to the opt-out station. This is a good way to reset or end the training session.

Look At That – A Game That Changed Everything

Look At That is a popular pattern game from the book Control Unleashed. This game:

  • offers a new way to address reactivity in dogs;
  • build engagement with your dog;
  • helps your dog process their environment;
  • encourages big behavior changes in reactive dogs;
  • strengthens communication between you and your dog and;
  • allows your dog to calmly process scary things.

In Look At That, you ask your dog a question, “Where is the [x]?” and mark when your dog looks at the object. Asking about their environment instead of giving a cue is part of the opt-in/opt-out sequence of behavior that helps an anxious dog feel more secure. It shows your dog they will not be asked to do anything that makes them feel unsafe.

Photo image of a handler holding the chin of a brown and white dog

Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHS-C

Other Pattern Games

There are several pattern games that can help move your dog from one place to another. One example is the 1-2-3 Game. In this game, after you say “1-2-3”, reward your dog. This pattern helps your distracted dog focus and encourages them to walk with you. This game is useful in shelters to move dogs from their kennel to the outside play yards or in veterinary hospitals to get dogs from the parking lot to inside, or from a kennel to the exam room, or onto a scale.

Some games need little to no training before you can play, such as Give Me a Break [GMAB]. Place a treat on the ground, turn your back, and sit in a chair. When your dog comes back to you, get up and place another treat on the ground near where the first one was located. This then gives your dog choice and control while helping them get used to the environment. It also teaches your dog to follow along when you turn your back and introduces a predictable reward. Expand on the basic chair version of GMAB by moving around the room.

Pattern games build a stronger bond and address your dog’s challenges. The games build relationships, help your dog feel more comfortable in their environment, improve communication, and establish new patterns of behavior.

 

The Up Down Game

The Up Down game is a simple pattern game that uses two behaviors to help keep your dog focused. You can play it almost everywhere to keep your dog engaged. To create a pattern your dog recognizes, you should do at least five repetitions each time you play the game.

You will need:

    • Treats your dog likes
    • A clicker (optional)

STEPS:

  1. Hold a treat up to get your dog to make eye contact.  
  2. When your dog looks at the treat, place it on the ground between your feet.
  3. Repeat this one to two times.
  4. When your dog finishes eating, wait for them to make eye contact again. This time, do not hold the treat up; have it ready in your pocket or behind your back.
  5. When your dog makes eye contact with you, use a word like “yes” or a clicker to mark the behavior
  6. Place the treat on the ground between your feet again.
  7. Repeat this at least five times.
  8. To make the game more challenging, have a friend walk around as a distraction. They can start by just walking, then create more distractions by moving closer or talking to you.
  9. Keep playing by giving your dog a treat every time they look at you and make eye contact. Do not try to get their attention; instead, reward them when they choose to look at you.
  10. Try playing the game in more distracting environments, such as your yard or local park.

A black cocker spaniel waits patiently and looks up at their caretaker

Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut

Black cocker spaniel takes a treat from caretakers hand

Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut

Tips if your dog is struggling:

  • If your dog has a hard time taking the treat from between your feet, place it closer to them. Make sure you put it in the same spot every time to make the game predictable.
  • You can play the Up Down game in many places, but start at home, where your dog feels safe. Once your dog can play the game well at home, you can add more distractions, such as family members.
  • Your dog should choose to play this game. Do not force, bribe, or lure them. Wait for them to make eye contact, then reward them. If your dog does not want to play, gets too distracted, overexcited, or reacts to the environment, try playing in a quieter place where they feel more comfortable and safe.    

Pattern games are a way for your dog to learn what to expect. These games can be found in the book series Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt CDBC, CPDT-KA, MLA. She also has an instructor certification program.