House Training Adult Dogs

Maddy in the leaves. Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

When house training an adult dog, the process is the same as with a new puppy. Although you may have been told your new adult dog is house trained, that may not be the case in your home. When first brought home, you may not be able to recognize your dog’s need to go out and they do not know how to go out.

Keep slip-on shoes and a leash near the door so you can quickly take them out when they wake up, after they eat, when they are sniffing for a spot, or looking restless. Be patient and take them outside frequently.

Keep treats handy near the door to grab as you go outside to your dog’s designated potty area. As soon as your dog goes to the bathroom, reward them with several of their favorite treats. Shower your dog with treats when they go to the bathroom outside, don’t wait to treat them after they come back in.

Giving so many treats like this may be frightening to your dog, causing them to refuse the treat. If this happens, remain calm and try putting the treat on the ground near them. If they still refuse the treat, try reinforcing another way, like going back inside or letting them sniff the grass or a tree. You can also try tempting them with other treats to discover what your dog considers valuable.

Adult dogs may prefer to potty on a specific surface. A dog that has spent their life in a kennel may prefer concrete over grass because this is familiar to them. To encourage your dog to go on different surfaces, try:

  • a road or sidewalk or an area with gravel;
  • leaf piles that might resemble wood shavings in their previous kennel;
  • bare ground under a tree or near the garage;
  • a covered porch, a garage, or a pop-up tent if they only previously soiled in the house;
  • a low-sided container such as a boot tray with sod or artificial grass for small dogs.

Some dogs may have been punished for toileting in the house, causing them to avoid going to the bathroom in front of people. Take them out in a safe area on a long leash or someplace where they can potty behind a tree or bush to give them privacy.

Since some dogs have never gone to the bathroom while leashed, try using a lightweight long line and be sure to keep the leash loose, or go to a safely fenced-in area so they do not need to be leashed. For small dogs, an exercise pen on the grass can often work. 

Clancy on his long line. Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

Making accommodations may be short-term while you find what your dog prefers. Eventually, you can transition your dog to the area you choose. Help your dog understand where you want them to go by using a visual such as wood shavings in the area. Reinforce each time they toilet on the shavings, using fewer shavings until eventually your dog no longer needs the visual.

Similar to training a puppy, your adult dog should not have free run of the house. Use exercise pens, baby gates, or doors to keep your dog with you until they are fully house trained and let you know they need to go out. It can take several months to fully housetrain. For accidents inside, use a good enzyme cleaner to remove odors to help prevent possible future marking behavior. 

If you have any concerns about your dog’s bathroom habits, discuss the issues with your veterinarian to rule out medical conditions. 

Casey stands on pebbles. Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

Low Calorie Training Treats

Q: My vet told me my dog needs to lose weight so now I can’t use treats for training. What do I do? 

A: Let’s look at the long-term goal first. You won’t be using treats for every correct behavior for the rest of your dog’s life. You only reward them each time when you are first training a new skill, then begin decreasing the frequency of the treats. However, your dog will stop doing the skill over time if you do not periodically reward them. Would you work for free forever?

For a high-value paycheck, you can use lean proteins such as chicken or steak. All rewards should be pea-sized. As a preferred reward, cat treats or cat kibble can also be used in small quantities. Some dogs enjoy vegetables such as carrots or broccoli, which can be given in tiny pieces and won’t add many calories. We want the dog to eat fast so they’re ready to quickly repeat the behavior again. Soft high-value treats are better for this, like chicken and steak. Cheese cubes can be cut into 27 small squares which gives you 27 rewards!

Regular dog kibble can be used as well, especially if your dog is food motivated. You can mix small amounts of the high-value, higher-calorie rewards with the dog kibble so the dry food absorbs some of the taste of the other foods.  

Use your dog’s mealtime as their training time. They will want to eat and then be eager to work. This also gives you a fun time to bond with them at least twice daily.

During the day, use ice cubes and veggies as treats or in puzzle feeders. Carrots make excellent frozen “rawhide” replacements. As your dog is learning new skills, you can start using favorite toys such as squeaky balls, flying discs, and tug toys as rewards too. This will not only cut down on calories but increase exercise.

What Does Managing Behaviors Really Mean?

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

A: Management is an important part of the behavior modification process and is a first step in setting up your pet for success. To stop unwanted behaviors from happening, you first must identify the events leading up to that behavior so you can try to prevent them.

We don’t want our pets practicing poor behaviors, yet we want to encourage the good ones. If every time you walked into the kitchen you saw chocolate on the counter, would it tempt you? If you put the chocolate out of sight, it is likely not as tempting. This is not much different for your pet. If your dog is counter surfing, keep all food items away or out of reach. If your puppy eats socks, then don’t leave the socks lying around. If your cat chews on plastic bags, make sure no bags are available to them.

If your dog reacts to other dogs, instead of taking them to a dog park to begin training, practice in your quiet home and yard. Your pet will be more focused on you and not barking at the dog down the street. Before visitors arrive move your dog into another room, to their safe-haven, or behind baby gates. Make sure they have their favorite toys or puzzle feeders. This will prevent the jumping habit and keep stress levels to a minimum.

If your cat is vocalizing because they see another cat outside every day, limit access to the windows. You can close the blinds or put translucent film on the glass. Management may not be the permanent solution to behavior issues, but it is a critical step before modification may begin.

Is your pet afraid of the cone? Other alternatives?

A soft cone makes it easier to get comfortable.

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

A: Let’s face it.  An Elizabethan collar can be terrifying for an animal. If your pet has never worn one, there may not be time to get them comfortable with it in an emergency. You can try alternatives that may have mixed results, so discuss these with your veterinarian first. You still need to prevent your pet from reaching the affected body part.

A pipe insulation foam tube can be cut into segments and put around a collar. This collar should be several inches larger than your pet’s neck circumference to allow for the added bulk of the foam. Insulation is available in a variety of thicknesses so use one of an appropriate size to prevent your pet from licking around the piping.

Inflatable collars can be adjusted by how much air you put in them. These collars are soft so your pet can lie down easily while wearing one. Your pet is less likely to crash into walls, chairs, or your legs because their peripheral vision is not blocked. Soft collars don’t crack or make noise like traditional cones. They also come in a variety of colors and fun styles so they may be less scary to young children.  

If your pet is calm, a paper or cloth cone may work. These look like a large coffee filter with your pet’s head through the center. A pet intent on reaching a wound can easily rip or destroy this type of collar. These must be quickly replaced if they get wet. Some soft cones are more rigid with foam panels covered in fabric. These stand more upright around your pet’s neck but are still soft enough for your pet to lie down comfortably.

Neck brace styles are also available. These are made of soft plastic and conform to your pet’s neck.  They are held in place by hook and loop fasteners and prevent your pet from craning their head to reach a rear body part.

Post-surgical bodysuits (think dog or cat “onesies”), T-shirts, small underwear, or booties can be used to cover either the entire trunk or just the feet, arms, and legs. These usually allow freedom to move normally but likely will not stop a determined chewer. If a covering becomes soiled or wet, you will need to replace it.

Whichever method you choose, frequent inspection and adjustment may be needed. Make sure your pet remains comfortable, relaxed, clean, and dry for the duration of recovery.

Surgical Suit

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP
T-shirts work too.

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

 

 

Does Enrichment Matter for My Cat?

Q: I just got a new kitten, but I don’t have much extra money for enrichment. Does it matter for a cat?

A: Enrichment is as important for your cat as it would be for dogs or people! But that doesn’t mean you have to spend money or much time creating enrichment for your cat.

Training is a form of enrichment. You can teach your cat many tricks such as mat training, hand targeting, come when called, high 5, and so on. This doesn’t require much more than some tasty treats such as canned cat food, cream cheese, tuna, or chicken as well as some time and patience. Cats learn just as quickly as dogs; it’s just a matter of finding what motivates them. You’re not only working your cat’s mind, you’re opening up a new way to communicate while creating a wonderful relationship.

Homemade toys are enriching as well. Fill empty toilet paper and paper towel tubes with a couple of treats, then crimp the ends closed and toss them for your cat to wrestle and shred. Fill small cardboard boxes with brown packing paper and place a few treats in the bottom so the cat can dive in the box to find the treats.

Teach your cat to “go find it”. Hide pieces of their kibble or a few treats around the house. Begin by showing your cat the first treat and let them see you “hiding” it right in front of them, for example behind a chair leg. When they find that one and finish eating it, they will likely look at you for another. Walk across the room, show them another treat, and tell them to “go find it” as you “hide” the next one. Do this until they learn the cue and then you can start hiding treats in different rooms.

Cardboard boxes make great cat forts. Cut out windows and doors for them to explore. Attach multiple boxes together and create elaborate cardboard cat trees with cardboard “tunnels” connecting them. Hide a treat in different “rooms” of the cardboard cat shack.
If your outside environment is safe, you can train your cat to walk on a leash using a harness. The smell of dirt, trees, plants, and grass provides endless enrichment.

Puppy Confinement Training Tips

May 4, 2022Dogs

crate training

Photo Courtesy Breanna Norris, KPA CTP

The goal of confinement training is for the puppy to be comfortable in their crate or other safe haven, such as an exercise pen or behind a gate. This area should not be used as a punishment but as a relaxing place to go for nap time or to gnaw on a chew toy.

When you bring your puppy home, be sure to have the crate accessible from the family’s common space. For some people, it will be convenient to have multiple crates, such as in the living room, bedroom, and office.

Crate training can go wrong when people confine the puppy and then leave. Puppies should not be left to “cry it out” and crates should never be kicked or shaken to quiet a puppy. Begin by either removing the door or tying it back so it doesn’t startle your puppy.

Toss several treats in the back of the crate and allow the puppy to find them. Do this multiple times a day and when the puppy goes inside to check for treats, you can reward them again.

Photo Courtesy Breanna Norris, KPA CTP

Next, add the door. As your puppy goes into the crate, gently close the door, and give your puppy a treat through the door. Open the door and allow them to come out. Only close the door for a few seconds at first, then slowly increase how long the puppy is confined.

To practice, have the crate nearby while you watch a movie, read a book or work at your computer. Your puppy should have a safe chew, or you can drop treats in the crate in the same spot each time so that the puppy can relax rather than hunt for them. If your puppy is relaxed with you nearby, try doing some activities with a little more movement, such as folding laundry or making dinner. Your puppy should still be able to see you and you should continue to give treats.

If your puppy remains comfortable, try briefly leaving the room, then return and give a treat. If your dog gets upset, leave for a shorter time and return before they become stressed, giving a treat before they vocalize. If they still seem upset, let them out. Don’t let the puppy continue to cry.

Before practicing crate confinement, be sure your puppy has been taken outside to the bathroom and is ready for a nap. Too much time in a crate can make the dog anxious.

Confinement can be scary and frustrating for your new puppy so go slowly with training. A negative experience in the crate can make training harder. Keep sessions short and positive. If you are concerned that your puppy is showing signs of separation anxiety, seek professional help.

Photo Courtesy Breanna Norris, KPA CTP