Help for Your Barking Dog

April 6, 2022Dogs

Barking is a normal behavior and one of the ways dogs communicate. Some breeds have a higher tendency to bark, so barking frequency, volume, and duration vary by individual. 

Photo courtesy of Paisley Lunchick

Certain barking can be desirable, alerting your family to package deliveries, visitor arrivals, and potential intruders. But excessive barking can cause frustration, weakening the bond between you and your dog. Here are some behavior modification steps to help you and your dog gain peace and quiet.

Step 1: Identify what triggers your dog to bark such as other dogs, people, wildlife, garbage trucks, or door knocking. Keeping a log is helpful and can speed up the behavior modification progress.

Step 2: Find the situations causing your dog to bark such as perching on the couch, window watching during busy times when people and other dogs are passing by, kids playing after school or rabbits in the yard during the morning.

Photo courtesy of Paisley Lunchick

Step 3: Think about what you would like your dog to do instead of barking. For example, your dog can be taught to lie on a mat when the doorbell rings, grab a toy when a delivery arrives, hold a toy to muffle or stop barking, run to you for further instructions, or be quiet on cue after a certain number of barks.

Step 4: Identify how you can manage the environment. Move or block the couch perch, play music, increase the TV volume to mask the sounds of kids playing, or cover the window with opaque film.

Step 5: Set a time frame such as two weeks. Monitor your dog’s progress in your log.

Photo courtesy of Paisley Lunchick

Often people become frustrated with barking and try corrections such as yelling or throwing something at the dog, stomping feet and rushing toward the dog, or using a citronella or shock collar. These methods are rarely effective to stop barking, and, in some cases, may even make the barking worse. Your dog may become untrusting or fearful. It can be more effective to teach your dog what to do instead of barking. Management will be needed until your dog learns how to do something else. If your dog is anxious or has barking tendencies, or you are inconsistent with training new behaviors, it can be more challenging to stop the barking.

Some dogs might not improve despite consistently using these techniques. If you don’t find relief from barking, seek a consult with a certified veterinary behaviorist or other behavior professional. A positive reinforcement-based dog trainer can help speed your progress. A thorough assessment, customized treatment plan, and professional support might be your key to quiet.

Cat Body Language

One of the best things you can do to strengthen your relationship with your cat is to understand their body language. People communicate mainly in writing or speaking while cats use their body and sense of smell and touch.  By understanding their language, we can improve our relationship with them and interpret relationships between cats within our home.  

By observing your cat, you will see differences in body language by the positions of their body, tail, ears and eyes. The signals of all these body parts combine to give us a clear idea of what they are trying to say.  Sometimes fearful cat body language, such as closing their eyes, hunching close to the ground and tucking their tail around them, may be an indication of pain. You should discuss any signs of anxiety, stress, or pain with your veterinarian.

Body Position

Examples of relaxed body language:

  • Loose, stretching out on side
  • Rolling on back comfortably
  • Eyes blinking slowly, casually gazing or closed if sleeping
  • Ears in a neutral position or forward if alert/attentive
  • Tail in neutral relaxed position, tip might move slightly or upright in a question mark shape

The cat is lying down calmly and the body looks relaxed. The eyes are not dilated, and ears are erect indicating alertness and attentiveness. Photo Courtesy of VIN Images

The cat is stretched out, sleeping with closed eyes. Photo Courtesy of VIN Images

Examples of fearful body language:

  • Tense
  • Hunching to ground, trying to hide
  • Eyes dilated in a light room or averted stare
  • Closed eyes but faking sleep may indicate pain/stress
  • Ears rotating backward or partially outward
  • Tail curled around or under body

This cat may be sleeping and enjoying the sun because eyes are closed, ears are forward and erect, and the head is upright. However, the cat’s body looks slightly tense and not fully relaxed so faked sleep cannot be ruled out. The cat’s environment and situation should be considered as part of the picture. Photo Courtesy of AdobeStock Images

This cat is lying on their back with forward, erect ears indicating they are attentive and alert. The eyes are not dilated and the cat does not look tense. If we were able to see the tail, we might be better able to understand if the cat is calm or anxious. Most cats do not enjoy a belly rub. Photo courtesy of VIN Images.

Examples of increased fear with possible aggressive body language:

  • Arched back with tail hair standing on end, possibly dilated pupils and pinned-back ears (“Halloween cat”)
  • Eyes in a fixed stare
  • Ears flattened to either side
  • Tail twitching, lashing, or tail hairs standing on end

This cat is anxious and fearful. You can tell by the hunched down body and eyes in a fixed stare, pinned-back ears, and a tail tightly curled around the body with fur that is somewhat raised. Photo courtesy of CattleDog® Publishing

This cat’s body posture and body language are sometimes referred to as the “Halloween Cat.” Notice how the cat’s back is arched and hairs are standing on end. The cat may be hissing and ears are rotated outward and backward. This cat is fearful and may escalate to aggression. Photo courtesy of CattleDog® Publishing

Kids and Dogs

March 24, 2022Dogs

Many parents mistakenly think a child-friendly dog means the dog should tolerate anything a child does. Although kids and dogs can, and often do, have great relationships, it may not be as easy as it seems. Children are unpredictable because they make loud noises and move suddenly, causing even the most mild-mannered dog to become frightened and overwhelmed. Any dog, even one who loves kids, can bite if they feel threatened, especially if they can’t escape the situation. Research shows that kids are most often bitten by a dog they know. In these situations, adults may not be watching or believe their dog would bite.

Inappropriate Interactions

The above interaction is not recommended (as outlined in the article). Photo courtesy Heather Howell, LVT, RVT, MBA

Parents should actively monitor interactions between children and dogs for potentially dangerous situations. When interacting with your dog, do not allow children to:

  • put their face in the dog’s face, hug, or kiss
  • play roughly or wrestle
  • tease
  • take away, play or put their hands in the dog’s food dish
  • run near or approach a dog who is seated or lying down because this may seem threatening to the dog

Prevention

Adults should actively engage with the children and dogs. When direct supervision is not possible, separate the dogs and children using barriers. Provide your dog with their own space. This should be a closed room or secure crate with everything your dog needs. Baby gates can be used to set up this safe haven. Teach your dog to love their special place and teach the children to never approach when the dog is resting there.

Learn Your Dog’s Language

Children are more at risk of dog bites because they haven’t been taught how to read a dog’s body language and can’t assess the danger. Dogs will often display subtle signs of discomfort, such as yawning and avoiding eye contact, before escalating to more obvious signs such as growling. By watching for these signs, you can step in to safely manage the situation by guiding your dog away from the child. If ignored or punished, then your dog is more likely to bite “out of the blue”.

Teach your children to recognize your dog’s body language by using children’s books, videos, and coloring pages. Adults still need to manage all child/dog interactions.

Structured Interactions

Show children appropriate ways to interact with dogs so they can be safe. Structured, predictable interactions between dogs and children can build positive relationships. With adult supervision, the following activities are appropriate for children with dogs who have never shown aggression:

Fetch –
Using two or more toys, older children can play fetch without needing to take toys away from the dog. The child tosses the first toy and when the dog returns, they toss the next toy.

Flirt pole –
For dogs who love to chase, attach a plush toy to a rope and stick that your child can hold. Using the flirt pole the same way you would a cat wand, let the dog chase the toy. Always finish the game with a treat.

Training –
Involving kids with the dog’s training can help create a strong, positive bond between them. Start training sessions with cues the dog already knows, like “sit”.

Tossing treats or kibble –
Another simple but effective game is to have kids toss either treats or kibble across the room for the dog.

Teach your child to freeze in place if your dog starts chasing or jumping at them. More movement or noise from children will encourage the dog to continue. If you have taught recall or “touch”, call your dog to you. If your dog does not come when called, they should be leashed.

Visitors

The above interaction is not recommended (as outlined in the article). Photo courtesy of Heather Howell, LVT, RVT, MBA.

Visitors can mean more excitement and activity in the house. Visiting children may have little experience or be overly comfortable with dogs, leading to inappropriate interactions. Even kid-savvy dogs may be uncomfortable sharing their home and space, leading to a growl or bite. When visitors with children come over, use the dog’s safe haven, and keep them away from the excitement.

Avoid Punishment

When creating happy, peaceful relationships between children and dogs, punishment is never appropriate. In scary situations, punishing a frightened dog can ruin relationships and doesn’t change the underlying issue.

Safety is the priority when managing relationships between dogs and children. If you are having a hard time creating positive interactions or your dog has shown aggression, contact a behavior professional for assistance.

Traveling with Your Cat

March 10, 2022Cats

At some point, you and your cat will need to travel. You may feel stressed by the idea, but with a bit of effort and planning, cats can learn to cope with the trip. Preparing your cat beforehand can make the experience less stressful for both of you.

Preparation

How much preparation is needed depends largely on how you are traveling and the length of time the trip will take. Know the requirements for traveling with your cat well in advance. Most transportation companies have guidelines for cat travel including approved carriers and health requirements. When flying, make sure that your cat will be in a temperature and pressure-controlled area. Extra caution is needed with breeds like Persians and Himalayans as flat-faced cats cannot handle temperature or pressure changes easily.

If your cat has shown distress during past travels, be sure to talk with your veterinarian. If a health certificate is required, your cat will need a veterinary visit. Discuss the use of medications to help your cat feel more comfortable.

A large dog crate can be a great space for cats during longer car rides. A blanket draped over the crate can create a feeling of safety. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

Introduce your cat to the crate early by feeding treats in the crate. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

Eventually, you can close the crate for brief periods of time. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

  

Have the appropriate carrier ready well in advance of your trip and start teaching your cat that the carrier is a great place to be. For long car rides, consider using a large dog crate that can accommodate a small litter box along with space for your cat to rest comfortably.

If you are flying or using any other public transportation, the size of the carrier will likely be limited. Use a pee pad to line the carrier in case of accidents. Cats who are accustomed to wearing a harness with a leash and are comfortable in public may be able to take breaks from the carrier during long trips. Be cautious even when your cat is used to wearing a harness or leash, as some cats may easily startle and try to escape.

Acclimating to the Car

If you are driving, you can acclimate your cat to the carrier as well as the car. Complete the following steps over multiple sessions while feeding your cat treats and watching their body language. Your cat should be more relaxed each session; if not, then stop and go back to the last most successful step.

  1. Once your cat is comfortable in their carrier, practice picking up the carrier for brief periods. The goal is to place the carrier in the car while your cat stays relaxed.
  2. Once your cat is in their carrier in the car, feed them some treats.
  3. Turn on the car and remain parked, feeding your cat treats.
  4. Drive a short distance such as up and down the driveway. Ideally, a passenger can feed treats during this step.
  5. If your cat remains relaxed, increase the distance for each session.

A smaller carrier is appropriate for shorter durations or public transportation. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP.

Bring kibble or treats for your cat to make a positive experience. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP.

Practicing some tricks in the car such as “touch” can help your cat feel more positive. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP.

Practicing some tricks in the car such as “paw” can help your cat feel more positive. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP.

During the Trip

Allow plenty of travel time to avoid added stress for yourself and your cat.   Give your cat some time to adjust to the car before you start driving. Bring your cat’s breakfast with you to feed in small portions throughout the trip. Using tricks your cat knows, like “touch” or “paw”, can help your cat focus on something they enjoy.

After Arrival

Your cat will need some time to feel comfortable in their new environment. Prepare a room or safe haven area for them so they can relax. Make sure they have everything they need in this space such as a litter box, hiding spot, scratching post, resting area, food and water. Wait to introduce your cat to any other pets in the home until after they have acclimated.

What Is Cooperative Care in Veterinary Medicine?

Rachel Lees LVMT, KPA CTP, VTS (Behavior), FFCP (Veterinary)

Animal behavior is a crucial aspect of veterinary care.  Whether your pet has pain or just “ain’t doing right,”  the pet’s behavior, body language, and overall demeanor is part of obtaining a thorough and precise physical examination.  Without this type of examination, symptoms and diagnoses may be missed that could make or break the treatment plans.  Without the ability to communicate, the pet may panic causing increased fear, stress, aggression, and anxiety that is associated with handling and restraint. When the veterinary staff is unable to successfully examine or handle a patient, it becomes a quality-of-life concern as the veterinary team cannot provide medical care. Observing behavior is an important part of every pet’s visit.  Staff should discuss behavioral concerns with you and give options for how they will make your pet’s visit as enjoyable as possible.   

Making Cooperative Care the Standard of Care for Each Patient 

Veterinary behavior professionals are often asked how veterinary staff can start using these techniques while keeping things straightforward.  Behavior medicine starts with opening the eyes of the veterinary team to “see” behavior.  Once you visualize a patient’s aggression as fear, stress, or anxiety, you cannot un-see it.  Implementing cooperative care techniques in practice is also a huge change for clinics.  Programs such as Low Stress Handling® and Fear Free® have created membership programs for individuals and teams to create a more behavior friendly atmosphere using special techniques such as towel wraps and minimal restraint methods.

You may notice food is often used during veterinary visits as a distractor. When using this method, it is important that the food be given just before the procedure begins. If your pet stops eating, then the team should stop and assess the emotional state of your pet. The goal is to make sure your pet always associates a positive experience with what’s happening. Sometimes other reinforcers are used such as play, scent, toys, petting, etc. depending on what your pet prefers. This method helps to prevent fear and anxiety but if your pet is already afraid at the clinic these distractors may not be enough. Cooperative care may be the next step needed to help your pet.

Cooperative care provides your pet with an opportunity to opt in or out of a procedure, communicating their consent to treatment. An example of this would be teaching a dog to go to a mat for handling. In training sessions, the pet learns that when they move to their mat, handling will happen.  Therefore, if the dog chooses to go to the mat, they are giving consent to touching.  This teaches them that if they are uncomfortable, they can simply opt out by moving off the mat. They do not need to go to extremes such as biting to stop the handling. Another example is an offered chin rest to allow eye drops, ear cleaning, or nail trims.

Cooperative care is not just limited to the veterinary clinic. Teaching your pet other behaviors to participate in husbandry procedures such as grooming, nail trims, topical monthly flea treatments, eye medicating, etc. can also be done. A cat that voluntarily enters a carrier on cue is easier to take anywhere and less stressful for all. Learning how to prevent certain stressors at the clinic and at home will help your pet accept procedures.

Walking Your Dog

Taking your dog for a walk should be an enjoyable event; walks are the primary reason some people get a dog. For some owners, issues arise that make going on walks less enjoyable. Let’s think about some options to help you both enjoy your walks more.  

Photo courtesy of Melissa Spooner-Raymond, LVT, VTS (Behavior), BS, KPA-CTP, TAGteach Level One

The Purpose of the Walk

Before heading out with your four-legged best friend in tow, know the purpose of your walk. Is exercise your primary reason? Who needs the exercise, you, your dog, or both? Walking improves your cardiovascular health, builds stronger muscles, and lowers your blood pressure and stress levels. However, if it takes you 60 minutes to walk a half mile because your dog insists on eliminating at every mailbox or light post then your heart rate might never make it to the necessary levels for cardiovascular benefit. A simple solution is to walk in an area with fewer distractions. Avoid public parks, neighborhoods, and subdivisions that have many tempting distractions. Instead, choose an open field, a state park, or a beach.

If your health is not the primary goal, then what is? Is your dog the one in need of exercise? Are you trying to improve their physique, or do you have another goal in mind? Often we look to walking as a solution for weight management or to burn off energy. If you have a busy dog that never runs out of energy, then taking them for regular walks seems like the best solution. As with humans, walking has many health benefits for dogs including building muscle and becoming stronger. However, over a period of time, you may notice a walk that previously tired them out no longer has the same effect. While walks are helpful for a dog that needs to shed some weight, they may not be ideal if your goal is to burn off energy. As their stamina increases, more intense walks may be needed to truly exhaust them. A solution to this issue may be to modify the type of walk you take.

Walks as Enrichment

Did you know that about 15 minutes of mental work for a dog is the equivalent of taking your dog on a 1-mile walk? Have you ever worked on a project intensely all day long and after you were done you felt like you ran a marathon? That is because your brain did all the heavy lifting. Mental exercise and brain games are often referred to as enrichment. Enrichment is not only enjoyable but also tiring! You can offer it to dogs in many different forms. Sniff walks are one of the many methods. This form of enrichment puts the responsibility of deciding where to go and how long to stay completely on the dog. If your dog wants to spend 15 minutes sniffing one single spot, let them.  As long as it is safe, allow them to have all the power. This may include following behind on the other end of the leash while your dog keeps their ears forward and their nose to the ground, as they track a particular scent. In order to help your dog understand the difference between a regular walk, where you want them to maintain good manners, and a sniff walk, put the various behaviors on a cue. Changing to a different leash for sniff time during your walk is one way of cueing your dog to start the behavior. Another may be to signal that it is okay to start by using a verbal cue such as “go sniff” and pointing to an area for them to go to.

Another easily implemented form of enrichment is varying your path. It is easy to get stuck in a pattern of walking the same path time after time. Your dog knows exactly where and when to turn and may even show signs of reluctance once they know they are heading home. Even small variations on your walk will make it a more enriching experience for your dog.

Training as Enrichment on Walks

Training is another way to include enrichment in your walk. Positive reinforcement (reward based) training by itself can be an enjoyable way to interact with your dog. Up the ante and take your training on the go. Request your dog to follow known cues at different periods of your walk. Consider playing a game. You can plan the details of this game in advance or decide when you’re on the walk.

  • Ask your dog to “down” every time you see another dog.
  • When a car passes ask for a “high five.”
  • While hearing a funny noise cue “touch.”
  • Before crossing a street or intersection, ask for a 15-second sit.

 

The behaviors you choose should be easy for your dog to offer and most of all fun! This exercise is all about tapping into your dog’s brain and making them think in varying environments with natural distractions. Keep it lighthearted. There should be no penalty for incorrect or undesirable behaviors. If your dog struggles, consider making it easier for them to get it right and keep moving forward.

Choosing any one of these enrichment techniques are sure to successfully meet your dog’s mental needs and give you a reprieve from some of their unwanted hyperactivity.