Resource Guarding in Dogs

October 4, 2021 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Trainer

What is resource guarding and why does it occur?

Resource guarding is a relatively common behavior problem in dogs. It is defined as a dog using avoidance, threatening, or aggressive behaviors to retain control of food or other items in front of a person or other animal.

 Sometimes, the signs of resource guarding are subtle. In these cases, your dog may show avoidance behavior or mild signs of aggression and anxiety such as stiff or crouched body posture, pinned back ears, lip licking, and physically blocking access to the resource. The aggression may escalate to more severe and overt signs of aggression such as growling, snapping, or biting. Food and food-related items are the most common resources that are guarded by dogs. However, any resource that is valuable to the dog may be guarded. This includes but is not limited to toys, beds, furniture, bones, resting areas, and even certain people. Resource guarding may have a genetic component and occurs in males or females of any breed. This issue can develop at any age. Resource guarding may be an issue that appears and progresses over time, or it may begin suddenly after a change in environment or routine. 

 Resource guarding does not have anything to do with dominance. It is a common misconception that dogs show aggression or develop behavior problems because they do not understand their “place in the pack.” This misconception is problematic because it often leads to training using force and punishment to show the dog who is “top dog.” However, dominance in this sense has been scientifically debunked. Using force and punishment in a situation like resource guarding often makes the behavior problem worse and can cause your animal to fear you and damage your relationship. To successfully manage resource guarding, we must change the underlying motivation and emotion behind the behavior (anxiety, fear, frustration). Studies have shown that reward-based methods are more effective and humane when managing behavior problems such as resource guarding. 

 To a degree, resource guarding can be considered a normal canine behavior since obtaining resources is necessary for survival. However, just because it can be considered normal does not make it desirable, safe, or acceptable in a household. Unfortunately, over time, dogs may learn that their aggressive responses are effective at protecting their resources, so the behavior will persist or even worsen. Additionally, if a dog’s mild signs of aggression are ignored or punished, this can cause their behaviors to escalate to more severe forms of aggression. For example, a dog may initially show mild signs such as freezing or hunching over their resource with a stiff body posture. If this behavior is punished or ignored the dog will likely realize subtle signs are not effective. In this situation, dogs are likely to escalate to more overt forms of aggression, such as growling, snapping, or biting. Then it becomes more challenging to manage and treat the issue.

How can my veterinarian help with Resource Guarding? 

Your veterinarian may be able to help you with this problem themselves, or they may refer you to a veterinary behaviorist. If you are experiencing this problem with your pet, it is important that you discuss it with your veterinarian.

Resource guarding may be caused by an underlying medical issue, especially if the behavior starts suddenly in an adult dog. Your veterinarian will complete a thorough physical exam and may request further testing based on their findings to determine if there is a medical issue. Sometimes medications can be helpful in the treatment of resource guarding especially if anxiety is a cause for the behavior.
     

Photo courtesy of CattleDog Publishing

     
Treatment and Management: What to do: 

  • Safety is the utmost priority. You may need to use tools such as baby gates, crates, or exercise pens to separate the dog from people or other pets when the object is nearby.
       
    • Separate pets from each other when resources are nearby.
        
    • Attempt to avoid clutter in your home so that it is possible to have more control over things. You do not necessarily want to restrict access to the resources or take them away completely, but you do want to control the situation so your dog can get to their resources in a way that is safe for everyone.
          
  • Identify all situations and resources that are guarded. Recording in a diary or on a calendar may be useful. You may want to record information such as:
       
    • When/how often resource guarding is occurring
    • Who is the dog guarding the resource from?
    • What resources is the dog guarding?
    • What behaviors are you seeing from your dog during the incident?
         
  • Learn to understand and respect what your dog is telling you. Learn to recognize dog body language and understand how it can escalate from more mild, subtle signs of aggression (such as lip licking, stiff body posture, ears pinned back) to the overt signs of aggression (growling, snapping, biting). If we respect dogs’ body language when they show mild signs of anxiety and aggression, we can likely avoid the behavior becoming more severe.
      
  • Make sure your dog gets enough exercise and play every day.
       
  • Behavior Modification
      
    • All household members must follow the same guidelines to manage this behavior. It must be a collaborative effort.
         
    • Here are some examples of behavioral modification techniques that may be used.
         
      • “Drop it”- Teach your dog to drop the item of value in exchange for a higher-value item or treat.
          
      • Relaxation exercises- this is especially helpful if resting places or certain people are guarded by the dog. With relaxation training, you can teach your dog to relax other places than the valued resting spot or away from the person that they guard. This can also include teaching a “place” behavior such as to a mat or dog bed.
           
      • Basket muzzle training – training your dog to be comfortable wearing a basket muzzle can be a useful tool to restrict access to certain resources for some situations.
           
    • Be realistic about what you can expect from your dog and what you can handle in your specific situation.
         
    • In rare and severe cases of resource guarding and aggression, euthanasia may be considered a humane option for both the dog’s welfare and human safety.
         

Treatment and Management: What NOT to do: 

  • Do not use force or punishment to attempt to correct this behavior.
      
  • Do not attempt to remove the resource of value from your dog as this could lead to injury.
       
  • Your dog’s resource guarding behavior may never diminish completely resulting in long-term management To reduce the behavior.
       

Prevention and Avoidance

  • Expose puppies to a wide range of toys and encourage them to share by calmly exchanging toys during play.
       
  • Train verbal cues such as “Drop it”, “Trade”, and “Leave it” using positive reinforcement training before resource guarding develops.
        
  • Provide your dog with a safe, comfortable space such as a crate or exercise pen that is only for your dog. It is important to not play with your dog’s food or put your hand in the bowl while eating. It is always important to add something like a special treat when humans are in close proximity to the bowl.
       

The treatment of resource guarding needs to be highly individualized for each dog and household. These dogs often need a combination of behavioral modification, training, and environmental and management changes.

     

How to Stop Pulling

September 15, 2021 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Trainer

By

Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

Why do dogs pull when leashed?

Leash pulling is a common complaint among dog owners. Why do they do it? The world is an exciting place full of new scents, sights, sounds, playmates, etc. Leash pulling is a self-reinforcing behavior, which means that when the dog pulls, they get to go where they want, which is not necessarily where you want to go. Since the behavior works, the dog is likely to continue doing it.

What do you want instead?

Picture what you would like your dog to do, instead of pulling. For most people, teaching their dog to walk on a loose leash is sufficient.

      

Most people would like their dog to walk nearby, on a loose leash. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

       
This involves teaching the dog that walking with a loose leash will be reinforced with forward movement. To teach this, you’ll want to first teach the behavior in an easy location, add a cue, and then start to use it in more challenging locations.

Use the right tools

No matter which tool you choose, you will still need to teach your dog how to walk beside you. It is best to think of these as safety tools rather than training tools.

While your dog is learning to walk on a loose leash, use a Y-shaped, front-attaching harness. These harnesses attach around the dog’s chest. They do not impede movement or put pressure on the neck. This harness is a great way to gently redirect the dog back to you. Use a lead that is long enough to provide some slack in the leash, usually 4-6 feet long, sturdy enough for your dog, and is comfortable for you to hold. Try tying a knot in your leash to remind you where to hold your leash to create the optimal length for your dog.
    

This dog is wearing a front-attaching harness. Note the J-shaped slack in the leash. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

   

Tools to avoid

Retractable/extendable leashes

Retractable or extendable leashes are not recommended for training because your dog never has a consistent amount of length, which makes it harder for them to learn how close to stay to you. There are other issues with these leashes, such as injuries to humans and dogs (abrasions, burns, deep wounds, finger amputations, etc.) along with the leash itself breaking.

Neck collars

When attached to a leash, collars can put a lot of pressure on the neck, possibly harming the trachea, spine, thyroid, etc. Avoid putting pressure on the neck to reduce the possibility for injury or harm to these structures.

Back attaching harnesses

When pressure is applied, dogs push back into that pressure and are more likely to pull forward. If the dog pulls and gets to move forward, then the behavior has been reinforced and will be repeated. These harnesses are not recommended if you are new to training and practicing loose leash walking.

Prong, choke, shock collars

Don’t use prong, choke, or shock collars as these tools teach your dog to avoid an unpleasant or painful stimulus instead of teaching your dog the desired behavior.

Step 1: Get the behavior

For dogs who already pull on the leash, it is best to start in an easy location while trying to change the behavior. Often, the best place to start is in your living room. Leash your dog and practice offering a treat at your side every couple of steps as you walk around the room. There are several goals while doing this:
    

  1. Reward your dog for being where you want them to be. If you offer a treat at your side, your dog is more likely to walk there. 
       
  2. Pulling on the leash is now a cue to return to your side. If your dog pulls, pause, and offer a treat at your side.
       
  3. Walking beside you is reinforced with forward movement. If your dog is beside you, continue to walk.
         

This dog is giving the person great attention while walking on a loose leash. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

   

By rewarding the dog for paying attention and staying close, he is more likely to do so again. Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

Step 2: Name the behavior

Attach a cue so that your dog knows when they should be walking close by.

  1. While your dog is beside you say your cue (“let’s go”, “with me”, etc.)
  2. Take a couple steps, then reward at your side.
  3. Repeat!
  4. As your dog gets better at this, increase the number of steps between treats.
        

Photo courtesy of Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

    

Step 3: Take it on the road…slowly

Once your dog consistently walks on a loose leash inside your home, try the same exercise in your backyard or for a short distance outside your home. Practice for short durations, reward generously, be patient, and always be fair! For some dogs, this is the equivalent of a child doing math problems while on vacation.

     

Desensitizing Your Dog to a Muzzle

August 17, 2021 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Trainer

By Sandra Robbins BS, CVT, VTS (Anesthesia & Analgesia), CPDT-KSA, KPA-CTP

Why use a muzzle?

Comfortably wearing a muzzle is a great skill for any dog to have. Chances are it will be necessary to wear one at some point during their life. The veterinary hospital is the most common place a muzzle may be needed. Some veterinary procedures are painful and having a dog who is comfortable wearing a muzzle is beneficial. Acute abdominal pain, trauma (such as a broken leg), or back pain are examples of issues an owner may encounter at home with their dog that can be extremely painful. Any dog has the potential to bite and pain can make that more likely.

Muzzles can also provide greater freedom for many dogs. Muzzles should never be viewed as punishment, and we can often help dogs learn to ask to wear their muzzle. Historically, muzzles have been associated with aggressive or biting dogs. There was a stigma attached to muzzles that suggested people using them were not kind to their dog.

Muzzles can also be used to prevent dogs from ingesting inappropriate items such as discarded food, corncobs, dead animals, food wrappers, and bark mulch. These items can cause GI upset or obstructions and may require expensive and invasive surgeries. There are basket muzzles specially designed for this purpose.

Many dogs are fearful and fear increases the risk of biting. This danger often leads to an isolated life and makes it difficult for owners to give their dog enough enrichment and exercise. By teaching a dog to wear a muzzle, you can safely work on behavior modification while allowing your dog to be around other dogs and people. A bonus for the dog that does not want to be approached by unfamiliar people is that the average person does not want to approach a dog wearing a basket muzzle.

What kind of muzzle is best?

There are different kinds of muzzles. For short procedures at a veterinary clinic, a sleeve muzzle may be used. This type of muzzle prevents a dog from opening their mouth, which makes it difficult to pant, drink water, or eat treats. A basket muzzle allows the dog to pant, take treats, and drink but reduces potential injuries from a bite. There are many different styles of basket muzzles, including custom fit muzzles that may be needed for those dogs with wide or flat faces.

Desensitization/Counterconditioning steps

Desensitization starts with a muzzle, tasty treats, and a quiet environment. There are four main parts to this process: introducing the muzzle, increasing the time the dog’s face is in the muzzle, attaching the straps, and then increasing activity while wearing the muzzle.

Step 1: Introducing your Dog to the Muzzle

  • Start with the muzzle on the floor with treats in and around it.
       
  • Allow your dog to approach and move the muzzle to get the treats.
        
    • If your dog seems nervous about this step, try leaving the muzzle in an area of your home where they may feel more comfortable approaching it. Every now and then replenish the treats that are in and around the muzzle.
         
  • Hold the basket muzzle with the opening facing your dog and the straps moved out of the way. Put treats inside the muzzle and offer it to your dog to approach and eat the treats.
        

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins

         

  • It should always be your dog moving towards the muzzle, not the muzzle moving towards your dog.
        
  • When offering the muzzle, make sure it is near you and at your dog’s nose level.
        

Step 2: Increasing Time of Your Dog’s Nose in the Muzzle

  • Present an empty muzzle in one hand with treats in the other hand behind your back. When your dog puts his nose in the muzzle looking for treats, instantly feed them through the muzzle.
        

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins

         

  • Prolong the time between treats while your dog’s nose is in the muzzle.
        
    • If your dog backs out of the muzzle, let them without pushing the muzzle toward them.
         
  • Start with treating once every other second for three to five seconds
       
    • One, treat, three, treat, five, treat
         
  • Then give one treat every third and fifth second for five to ten seconds
       
    • One, two, treat, four, treat, six, seven, treat, nine, treat
         
  • Extend the time gradually in this way so that your dog is not expecting constant treats
       

Step 3: Introducing the straps

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins
  • While your dog’s nose is in the muzzle waiting for the next treat, begin to lift the straps of the muzzle near your dog’s head and then drop them and give your dog a treat.
       
    • To free your hands for connecting the straps around your dog’s head, consider resting the muzzle in your lap or on a pillow.
         
  • Progress with the straps slowly up and around your dog’s head until your two hands can touch behind your dog’s head.
       
    • When you first get the straps connected, immediately disconnect them, and give your dog a treat.
  • The next time after connecting the straps, give your dog a treat and then take the muzzle off.
       
  • Gradually increase the number of treats your dog can eat while wearing the muzzle.
      

Step 4: Make it fun

  • Once your dog seems comfortable wearing the muzzle, have them wear it for something fun like a hike with you or a ride in the car.
           

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins

  • It is important to monitor your dog for discomfort while wearing the muzzle and take it off before they become worried about it.
       
  • Creating positive associations with the muzzle will make it a more pleasant experience for your dog.
       

If your dog seems to be having a difficult time with any of these steps, back up to a step they seemed more confident with and reinforce before moving on to the next step.

To make the muzzle look more fun and less intimidating, decorate it! Some fun options are to use decorative tape or to glue colorful gems to it. You could decorate your dog’s muzzle to match your favorite sports team’s colors. Your dog won’t care what the muzzle looks like, but bright colors create a different association for the people around your dog.
    

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins

     

Photos by Sandra Robbin

     

Identifying a Qualified Dog Trainer or Behavior Professional

August 5, 2021 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter I am a... Pet Owner

By Samantha Zurlinden, Veterinary Student Class of 2023

The Reality of the Animal Training Industry

Animal training is a booming industry. We love our pets, and we want the best for them. We also want to live with them harmoniously. Many pet owners seek out professional pet behavior help on their own as well, whether it is for puppy class or to manage an existing behavior problem. Trainers and behavior professionals are also sought out by veterinarians, shelter staff, and other animal care professionals to refer clients for training.

Person telling their golden retriever to sit

All it takes is a quick internet search, and you will be met with an overwhelming, never-ending list of animal trainers. It can be confusing to navigate this. There are several training programs, certifications, and credentials available for trainers and behaviorists. Be aware that ‘behaviorist’ is not necessarily a specific legal term: those with an MS or PhD in behavior are called ‘behaviorists;’ people without these or any credentials may be allowed to self-adopt the term ‘behaviorist.’ Additionally, while some credentials can be beneficial in many cases, they are not a guarantee that your trainer is using ethical, humane, or scientifically based methods. How can you narrow your search for a qualified trainer or behavior professional?

The unfortunate reality is that anyone can call themselves a trainer because the training industry is not regulated. Additionally, just because a trainer has credentials does not mean that they are using methods that are ethical or supported by science.  As with any other product or service, marketing plays a large role. Sponsored pages on Google and Facebook will show up first on the list because they pay to be there. Just because they pay to be seen first does not mean they should be your first choice. Being skilled at marketing does not make them a skilled trainer. Finding a qualified trainer or behavior professional is not an easy or simple task. It takes time, knowledge, and persistence. 

Qualified trainers or behavior professionals are not often the ones that show up on the top of a Google search. They are not usually the ones on a TV show, nor the ones bringing lunch and flyers to your veterinarian’s office. It is important to learn how to navigate this dilemma, as the methods used by trainers and behavior professionals can have a profound impact on your pet’s welfare and the human-animal bond.

Why Using a Qualified Trainer or Behavior Professional Matters

It is incredibly important for veterinarians and other pet professionals to know how to refer to qualified trainers and other behavior professionals.

Research has shown that reward-based training is more effective and more humane than aversive methods. Reward-based training focuses on teaching the animal what to do without using force instead of what NOT to do. Reward-based training works to increase the animal’s motivation and improve their emotional state, which encourages them to learn and enjoy training. Research also shows that training styles that use force and aversive techniques increase fear and aggression in dogs, creating safety and welfare concerns that would otherwise not exist. Aversive methods may be effective when teaching a dog what NOT to do,  but also can cause more severe behavior problems and negatively impact the human-animal bond.

What Makes a Trainer or Behavior Professional Qualified?

There are several training programs, certifications, and credentials available for trainers and behaviorists. While these credentials can be beneficial in many cases, they are not a guarantee that your trainer is using ethical, humane, or scientifically based methods. How can you narrow your search for a qualified trainer or behavior professional?

  • Review their website and/or social media pages for a description of their training methods. Reward-based, positive reinforcement training is a good sign. Photographs or videos can be helpful as well. Look for animals being rewarded for doing the desired behavior.   
  • Ask about their education and experience. At a minimum, the trainer should have taken classes in animal behavior and psychology. Research any credentials your trainer has earned and understand what the requirements are to obtain the certification.   
  • Ask if there are any behavior problems they are not prepared to handle. A reputable trainer is self-aware and recognizes when a client needs to be referred elsewhere or work with a veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist.   
  • Ask to observe a class or a training session. Observe how the animals respond to the trainer and the communication skills that the trainer has with people.   
  • Ask yourself if you feel comfortable with the techniques being suggested. You should, and so should your pet.
       

What Are Some Red Flags to Avoid in a Trainer?

  • Guarantees that training will be successful. Guarantees are unrealistic and impossible. Behavior can never be guaranteed. Qualified trainers and behavior professionals are willing to admit and discuss this.   
  • Review the trainer’s website and/or social media pages. Be cautious of websites that are vague in terms of what methods are used. Again, photographs and videos can be helpful if available. Avoid trainers that use aversive methods or that use physical force with the animals. It’s important to note that trainers who use aversive methods are not always upfront about it, which is why vague communication about their methods is a red flag.   
  • Ask to attend a class or training session. Observe how your pet responds to the trainer and ask yourself if you are comfortable with the techniques used.   
  • Ask the trainer if they use or recommend prong collars, shock collars, or choke chains. These aversive tools should not be used.  You may see these tools in the trainer’s photographs or videos.   
  • Avoid those trainers that reference dominance theory or  being “alpha” or “top dog.” Dominance theory has been scientifically debunked.
       

Resources for More Information: 

Research Highlighting the Benefits of Reward-based Training vs. Aversive Methods

  • Hiby EF, Rooney NJ, Bradshaw JW (2004) Dog training methods: their use, effectiveness and interaction with behaviour and welfare. Anim Welf 13; 63–69.

     

Behavior and the Senior Dog

July 26, 2021 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Veterinary Professional

By Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

Introduction

Dogs are living longer these days than ever before due to advanced veterinary care and better nutrition. However, as they get older, age-related diseases such as arthritis, dental disease, diabetes, Cushing’s disease, thyroid disease, cancer, and decreases in vision and hearing can all result in subtle or more obvious behavioral changes in dogs. These changes can include decreased activity, loss of appetite, and even aggression.

What about Canine Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CCDS)?

Similar to Alzheimer’s disease in humans, another disease to consider in older dogs is canine cognitive dysfunction syndrome (CCDS). This disease affects the brain, causing behavioral changes such as disorientation, decreased social interactions, vocalization, increased restlessness at night, house soiling, anxiety, irritability, and, in some cases, agitation. We may think of cognitive decline as an “old dog” disease, but clinical signs can start to emerge as early as 5 years of age in some dogs, especially larger breeds.

Clinical Signs of CCDS

D:  Disorientation
I:   Changes in social interaction
S:  Changes in sleep-wake
H:  House soiling
A:  Changes in activity level and anxiety

Determining the Cause

When determining the cause for behavioral changes in older dogs, we must first rule out underlying medical diseases with lab tests such as a complete blood count, serum chemistry, thyroid profile, and urinalysis.  Diagnostics such as radiographs can show signs of arthritis or certain types of cancers. Specific exams to look at teeth, eyes, and even the nervous system can also help narrow down the cause. Cognitive disease is often diagnosed based on behavioral signs alone once other medical causes have been ruled out. 

Treatment

The goal for these dogs is to improve their welfare rather than to cure. Pain is often a common factor resulting in decreased activity, increased anxiety, restlessness, and in some cases even aggression. Anti-inflammatories (NSAIDs) and other pain medications often improve the dog’s comfort level and subsequent quality of life. Behavioral supplements, pheromones, prescription diets, and anti-anxiety medications may also be helpful.

In addition to medications, enrichment using interactive food dispensing or puzzle toys can provide mental stimulation, sharpen problem-solving skills, and exercise the brain. Using a variety of new smells hidden around the house or in the yard often stimulates interest and physical activity.

Positive reinforcement training is another form of enrichment for older dogs, can be used when teaching new tricks or playing memory games. This training helps to sharpen your dog’s memory while providing positive human interactions. Many of these techniques can be just as mentally tiring as if you just took your final exam for chemistry. They can also help your dog sleep better at night and slow down the progression of canine cognitive dysfunction syndrome in some dogs.
     

Photo courtesy of Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

     
If you are observing behavior changes in your older dog, a trip to the veterinarian is encouraged. What you are seeing may not just be your dog slowing down. There may be more to the picture than meets the eye or assuming that’s the way it goes; you may be able to significantly enhance your dog’s quality of life in their senior years. 

     

Loose Leash Walking

July 14, 2021 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Pet Owner

By

Melissa Spooner-Raymond, LVT, VTS (Behavior), BS, KPA-CTP, TAGteach Level One

Loose Leash Walking

When walking your dog, you can determine how loose leash walking works best for you. You may not have a right or left side preference, or desire to have your dog perfectly aligned with your leg. You may be okay with having them walk a few steps ahead of you. You may be perfectly happy as long as they are not pulling you.

If you decide that basic loose leash walking is more your speed than heeling, that is okay. Dogs that respond to their owner’s simple request on a walk are just as well behaved. When you try loose leash walking, carry items that your dog finds to be highly rewarding. In most instances, food is the best choice, but if your dog passes up food to play with a tennis ball or other toy, bring that along.
     

Photo courtesy of Depositphotos


How to Teach Loose Leash Walking

One of the easiest ways to teach a dog to maintain a loose leash is by rewarding them when they do it accidentally. Once you feel your dog’s leash become loose on its own, make sure to reward them. If you reward them every time you discover them doing something you like, they will begin to offer it more frequently. If you find that you cannot get the treat to your dog fast enough, don’t worry. Consider using a clicker or verbal marker like “yes” in your training to help your dog identify those desirable behaviors.

What if you walk your dog and you never achieve a loose leash, even for a few steps?

  • If the environment that you are walking in is too distracting, consider going to a different area.
          
  • Allow your dog to burn off some energy by running and playing before you practice loose leash walking.
        
  • Another easy solution is to change the time of day you head out. Going at non-peak times, early in the morning or late in the evening, gives you a better chance for success.
          

If these modifications still don’t give you the success that you hoped for, using a management walking tool is the next change to consider.

Walking Tools for Management

There is no shortage of loose leash walking devices available on the market. Each one promises to be better than the previous one. When selecting one, asking for help from a training or behavior professional will likely offer the best result. Set your dog up for success by using a tool that allows more opportunities for good behavior. Remember, your goal is to capture your dog being good. Tools such as a front-leading body harness or a head halter will help to maximize leash control and minimize discomfort. Avoid tools that cause pain, discomfort, or fear. Tools that inflict shock, mild vibration, cause pain on sensitive organs, or cut off oxygen supply for even short periods may interrupt behaviors you do not like, but will likely cause other problematic behaviors.

Look at the world from your dog’s perspective. The less often you go for walks, the more novel and exciting it will be when they get the opportunity to explore. Try to understand their excitement. Be sure to make the walk equally as enjoyable for them as it is for you. Be kind and fair in your training methods, and always make time for a few good smells.

     

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