10 Ways to Build Confidence in Shy and Fearful Dogs

February 2, 2022 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker

By Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

Photo courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Fear is a normal emotional response in dogs that can be from a real or perceived threat. Some dogs respond with subtle behaviors that seem shy, approaching with their head carried low, ears to the side or held flat, brow furrowed with a worried look, and eyes closed or blinking. Their mouth may seem tight, or they are licking their lips or yawning. Their tail may be lowered and slowly wagging.

For other dogs, the fear is more obvious because they will hide, run away or freeze in place. These dogs often avoid eye contact and may tremble. Their tails are often tucked, and they may pant or stand completely still with their mouth closed tight and body tense. When cornered, these dogs may snap to get away and bark, charge, lunge, snap or bite. These behaviors are often misunderstood as aggression.

Help shy and fearful dogs feel safer by building trust and teaching skills to manage their fear.

  • Keep a Log
    Know what triggers your dog’s fears and keep a log to help avoid those triggers. It will also help your veterinarian decide if medication is beneficial. If triggers are hard to identify or manage, a daily anti-anxiety medication may be needed. When you know your dog’s triggers but cannot avoid them, medication can be given as needed.

Photo courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

  • Establish a Safe Haven
    Your dog can retreat to a bedroom, closet, or covered kennel to feel safer. Make sure this area is away from the normal traffic pattern in the home and has warm, soft bedding. Encourage your dog to go to this area where good things happen, such as treats given daily. This spot should be a “No Kid” and “No Stranger” zone. 
  • Avoid Using Punishment
    Your dog is scared and may be responding to a threat the only way they know how. Punishing the growl, telling them “No” or “You should know better” can sometimes make the behavior worse. Notice what might be causing your dog to feel uncomfortable and encourage your dog to move away from the threat by calling them to you and rewarding them. Reward the growl and encourage it because this is information from your dog that is not yet a bite.
  • Food Dispensing and Puzzle Toys
    These toys are a great way to build your dog’s self-confidence, helping them to problem solve while encouraging them to explore their environment. When you find a food puzzle your dog likes, feed them one meal out of it every day and change it up by freezing the food or using the grass as a natural snuffle mat.
  • Build Trust
    Building trust is an important part of our relationship with dogs. We need to respect their needs and normal canine social behaviors. Some dogs don’t enjoy being hugged or kissed. Don’t invade your dog’s personal space unless invited. Always ask them to come into your space first. Be respectful if that answer is no.

Photo courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB
  • Positive Interactions are Important
    For people, shaking hands and direct eye contact is polite social behavior. In the dog world, hands reaching for them or direct eye contact can be rude or scary, triggering a fearful response. Tossing treats behind your dog gives them an opportunity to return for more instead of forcing them to take treats from a new person’s hand. Playing a game of fetch or tug or throwing a disc can build relationships while having fun.

Photo courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Photo courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB
  • Respect Your Dog’s Choices
    Dogs need some control over a situation and the opportunity to say no or fear can rapidly turn into worry. Watch your dog’s body language closely to recognize when they become overwhelmed and feel trapped. If you notice your dog is cautious, move your dog away until they are more comfortable.

Photo courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

  • Stop the Walks
    If your dog is hesitant to go on walks, doesn’t want to leave the yard or go for a car ride, don’t force them.  Traffic, people, weather, and strange noises can be scary. Give them time to feel more confident.

Nose work course. Photo courtesy of Ben Bricker.

Photo courtesy of Ben Bricker

Try playing games in the yard, go for sniff walks in quiet and safe locations, or do nose work exercises (find hidden scents around the yard or house) instead.

  • Focus Behaviors
    Your dog’s ability to predict your behavior will increase with focus behaviors such as eye contact, targeting, and a chin rest.

Eye contact. Photo courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

These behaviors also give your dog a clear way to communicate with you when they are starting to feel overwhelmed and afraid.

Photo courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

  • Foundation Behaviors
    Conditioning relaxation on a mat will give your dog a safe haven that you can bring with you to places like the vet, in the car, on vacation, and in a crate. This conditioning is a building block for more advanced behavior modification.

When it comes to shy and fearful dogs, remember that these dogs will often show improvement over time once you become more predictable in your interactions with them and they learn the routine. Take note if your dog is not improving. Sometimes medication will still be needed to help your dog feel safe.

How to Make Veterinary Visits Less Stressful

February 1, 2022 • Birds Cats CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs Exotic Animals Farm Animals Horses I am a... Other Animals Pet Owner

Experiencing some fear during veterinary visits is a normal reaction for pets. It’s not fun to be examined by strangers and poked with needles. Pets do not understand why they are there or that the uncomfortable procedures will benefit their health.
      

Photo courtesy of Depositphotos

       
Fear during clinic visits often leads to patient distress, discomfort, and behavior problems. If their fear and anxiety are not addressed effectively, it can worsen over time, become harder to manage safely, and can have negative impacts on their welfare. Fear and emotional distress create challenges that can prevent pets from receiving necessary care. Fear can put people at risk. You may be hesitant to take your pet in just to avoid the experience; some people are embarrassed by their pet’s behavior. Remember they are behaving this way because they are afraid, not because they are bad or trying to embarrass you.

There are several ways to reduce fear and to provide a low-stress experience. Creating that experience is a team effort between you and staff.

Body Language

Reading pet body language appropriately is the key to less stress. Handling can then be adjusted based on what the pet’s body language is saying. If the early signs of stress are ignored your pet’s behavior may escalate. Since animals learn from experience, they may skip the earlier signs entirely at the next visit, intensifying to more aggressive behaviors.

Preparation

You know your pet better than anyone else. Discuss any behavioral concerns when scheduling the appointment so the medical staff will be better prepared for your pet’s visit.
Preparation also includes making transportation comfortable. For example, cats can learn how to be more comfortable entering and riding in their carriers. Carriers with tops that are easily removed are best. Pheromones can sometimes help to reduce anxiety in the car or anti-anxiety medications may be needed. Make sure to wait until your car is at an appropriate temperature before bringing your pet to the car. Calming music, such as classical, can help block out road noise.

Happy Visits

If your dog is fearful, “happy visits” can help them feel more comfortable at the hospital. Stop by for a quick visit that involves positive interaction. Staff can briefly interact, say comforting things, and give your pet treats to improve their perception of the clinic.

What to Look for at the Clinic

  • Minimizing time in the waiting room can help reduce stress.
  • Some clinics have separate cat and dog waiting and exam rooms. Occupants of cat exam rooms should be out of hearing range from barking dogs. Others may have you wait in your car until an exam room is ready.
  • Pheromone diffusers can be used in waiting rooms and exam rooms, and pheromone sprays can be applied to towels before use. Exam rooms and waiting areas should be cleaned and sanitized to prevent disease transmission and reduce stressful scents, such as alarm pheromones or bodily secretions.
  • Calming music and limiting noise can help your pet feel more comfortable.

Using Treats at the Clinic

Bring your pet’s favorite treats. While waiting and during the exam, frozen Kong treats or lick mats can help form positive associations with the hospital. Giving treats to a fearful pet will not reinforce fear. If your pet stops eating, then their anxiety and stress level is escalating. This may be the time to stop the exam although some respond to a different type of treat.

In the Exam Room

Examining dogs on the floor and cats in their carrier, on a countertop, or in a lap is usually less stressful. Bring a non-slip mat from home. Many dogs and cats do better if they can stay with you during the exam.

Cats should never be dumped or pulled out of their carrier. Open the door and allow your pet to explore the room on their own. If your pet will not come out within a few minutes, take the carrier apart so they can stay in the bottom. Placing a towel over their body can help them feel more secure.

Cats should not be scruffed during handling. A safer, more compassionate way to handle cats is using towel wraps. Basket muzzles are ideal for dogs if they have been conditioned to wear them comfortably.

Always consider whether the planned procedures need to be completed that day or can wait. If your pet’s stress level is escalating, discontinuation of the exam or procedure may be necessary. If the visit cannot wait ask about taking a break or trying alternative approaches, such as sedation. At the end of this appointment, discuss your pet’s behavior and what could help next time.

Your veterinarian may prescribe anti-anxiety medications for the next visit. Some pets may do better with a mobile veterinarian who provides services in the comfort of your own home. Working with a veterinary behaviorist or a qualified behavior professional may be needed.

     

Teaching Your Dog to Love the Cone

January 19, 2022 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Trainer

By Sandra Robbins, BS, CVT, VTS (Anesthesia & Analgesia), CPDT-KSA, KPA-CTP

Rocco is modeling a soft-sided lion-themed cone. These soft collars are cute and more friendly but also not as aversive as many of the traditional cones.
All photos courtesy of Sandra Robbins.

       
Elizabethan collars (sometimes referred to as “cones of shame”) are necessary tools to keep pets from licking a surgical site, wound, or hot spot; chewing off bandages or splints; or scratching their ears or face. By desensitizing your dog to wearing a cone, it will be less stressful for your pet if and when they need to use one. Several types of cones are available, some of which are more comfortable for the animal.
        

Rocco is modeling an inflatable cone. This version may be helpful for restraint but may not be as comfortable for the dog as a traditional cone.

     
The method detailed below is illustrated with a clear plastic cone and a dog but it works for all types of cones and applies to both dogs and cats.

Getting your pet used to the cone:

Desensitization is only effective if your pet remains calm. If your pet becomes distressed, you will need to find a way to make the training easier.

Step 1: Treats around cone.

Step 1: Introduction

  • Leave the cone assembled in a corner of a familiar room
        
  • Place it wide part down so that it is least likely to move
       
  • Put treats around the outer rim of the collar
       
  • Once a day check on the cone and put out new treats if your dog ate the previous treats
        
  • If your pet is comfortable approaching the cone for treats, proceed to the next step
         

Step 2: Treats in the cone on its side.

Step 2: Interaction

  • Lay the cone on its side
       
  • Put treats in and around the cone
        
  • Encourage your dog to approach and get treats from the cone
        
  • Your dog should see this as a game and want to move the cone for the treats
        
  • Repeat as necessary to increase your dog’s comfort with the cone
        

Step 3: Emma reaches her head in to get the treat.

Step 3: Hold the cone

  • Encourage your dog to approach you while you hold the cone
        
  • Choose to feed with either the hand holding the cone or the free hand based on your dog’s comfort
         
  • Gradually work on getting your dog to approach the narrow opening and eat treats held in a hand in the cone
         
  • Start with a hand in the cone, eventually moving the hand away from the narrow opening so your dog has to place their head through the narrow opening of the cone to eat the treats
          
  • For dogs who are afraid of the cone while it is in your hand, back up to step 2 or try leaving it on the floor and steadying it with your hand so they can approach it and eat the treats. You could also try using a higher value treat.
           
  • Repeat this step, only if your dog is eagerly participating
          

Step 4: Head in the cone

  • Hold the cone as in step 3
         
  • Have your treat hand inside the cone far enough away from the narrow opening that your dog has to put their head all the way through the narrow opening to get the treats
         
  • Hold the cone so your dog can back out comfortably without the collar getting stuck on their head
         
  • Repeat this step encouraging your dog to slip their head in and out of the cone with ease
            

Step 4a: Hold treat further from the narrow opening of the cone.
Step 4b: Emma reaches her head all the way through the cone to get the treat.

     
Step 5: Wearing the cone

  • Repeat the process from step 4, but this time allow the cone to rest on your dog’s neck and feed them treats
       
  • If your dog is comfortable, feed them treats
        
  • If not, help them out of the cone and back up to an easier step
        
  • If they can keep the cone on, encourage your dog to walk to get a treat
        
  • Repeat this process so that your dog can feel comfortable wearing the cone and walking around the house
         

Step 5a: Emma has confidently put her head all the way through the cone and is comfortable wearing it without assistance.
5b: Emma is able to walk while wearing the cone.

    
Finding an approach that will work for Rocco:

Rocco is being offered some canned cheese spread to get him to put the cone on.  Notice how he leans away and turns his head, showing hesitancy.
     

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins

     
Rocco approaches to investigate and decide if it is something he wants.
       

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins

     
Rocco decides that the exercise is too hard and backs away without getting a treat. Notice how he is licking his lips and is standing farther from the cone. To make it easier for him, Dr. Sample moves her hand towards the cone opening.
        

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins

     
Rocco decides it is better and approaches to take the treat.
          

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins

       
Now Rocco relaxes near the cone while eating the canned cheese spread.
      

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins

     
When we found the approach that worked for Rocco, he was able to eat treats with the cone on.
       

Photo courtesy of Sandra Robbins.

     

Teaching Chin Rest to Dogs

December 15, 2021 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Trainer

By

Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

Teaching voluntary behaviors such as a chin rest can be useful when you want your dog to hold still and show you they are comfortable. A chin rest shows that your dog is willing to be an active participant in their care. Teaching a chin rest can be part of a dog’s behavior modification plan when they are resistant to needed care, such as applying eye drops and ear medication. This is sometimes called cooperative veterinary care.
   

Photo courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

   
Your dog can learn to target a chin rest to your palm as a stationary position, on a walk, target on a towel, or the arm of a wheelchair for petting in therapy work.
     

Dog resting chin on open hand

     
To prepare for training have high-value soft treats, and identify a comfortable height and position for both animal and trainer, such as a rolled up towel on a chair. When teaching this behavior, it is important to keep your hands steady, so your dog is not nervous.
   

Step 1: Stationary Chin Rest
   

Stationary chin rest

    

  • Hold your open hand, palm up in front of your dog’s snout slightly below chin level.
       
  • In your other hand, hold a treat in front of your dog’s face just below the nose beyond your “palm (target)” hand. As your dog reaches for the treat, lower your hand holding the treat to just below your open palm.
       
  • As your dog rests their chin across your open palm mark the behavior and give them the treat.
       
  • Repeat 3-5 times. This is the time to start adding the verbal cue “chin” as your dog’s rests their chin on your palm.
       
  • Now test this behavior by offering your open palm just below the chin level and give the cue.
       

With their chin on your palm, begin adding duration by counting to 1 second then reward. Then begin rewarding at random times such as 3 seconds, then 2 seconds, then 4 seconds, so your dog does not learn a pattern.
       

A mark is a word or clicker that signals to your dog they have demonstrated the desired behavior.

     
Some tips to try:

Encouraging dog to lean chin forward

  • To encourage the dog to lean forward to put their chin onto the target palm, hold the treat hand farther away from the palm hand on the same level so the dog sees the treat.
       
  • To encourage your dog to lower their chin onto the target palm, bring the treat hand from below the target palm so your dog leans over the target palm and lowers their head to reach down toward the treat.
        
  • Hold your palm hand at a height so your dog is not struggling to rest their chin on your open palm.

   
Step 2: Transfer the Behavior to a Towel or Object

  • Roll up a small towel or use a pillow placed on the edge of a chair or table. It should be at a height comfortable for your dog to rest their chin.
       
  • Place your hand, palm facing up, on the object upon which you want your dog to place their chin.
       
  • Give the verbal cue “chin,” mark and reward each time your dog places their chin onto your open palm.
      
  • Repeat this 3-5 times.
       
  • To encourage your dog to rest their chin on a towel offer your open palm behind the object. Mark and reward your dog for resting their chin on the towel.
       
  • Add duration slowly and variably as outlined above.
        

Photo courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

   
Some tips to try:

Holding treat so dog drops chin

  • To prompt the chin to drop into place, offer the treat below the level of the towel. Mark and reward. You may need to repeat this until your dog no longer requires prompting.
        
  • You may need to raise or lower the height of the towel to make a chin rest more accessible.
        
       
        

     

Desensitization and Counterconditioning to Nail Trimmers for Cats

December 1, 2021 • Cats CattleDog Publishing Newsletter I am a... Pet Owner

By Sarah Nugen, Class of 2023; Sandra Robbins BS, CVT, VTS (Anesthesia & Analgesia), CPDT-KSA, KPA-CTP; Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

Photo courtesy of Depositphotos

How to help your cat get used to having their nails trimmed

  1. Start by putting the trimmers in a common area like your living room where your cat can choose to explore them at their pace. Putting treats around the nail trimmers can help to create more positive associations with them. If your cat will not go near the trimmers, feed them treats at a comfortable distance. Gradually decrease the distance between them and the nail trimmers.
  2. Next, have the nail trimmers nearby when you are interacting with your cat. This interaction may be a play session or a time when your cat is comfortably settled on your lap accepting treats. You do not need to move the nail trimmers around, just have them within view of your cat when they are near you.
  3. Let your cat see you lift and put down the nail trimmers. If your cat enjoys lying on your lap, you can have the nail trimmers near, pick them up and put them down, then feed your cat a treat.
  4. Practice bringing the nail trimmers to your cat’s foot, then moving them away and giving your cat a treat. If your cat is too stressed about this step, only bring the nail trimmers part way to your cat’s foot before putting them back down and giving a treat.
  5. After your cat has learned to tolerate a single nail being isolated and examined with the trimmers nearby, cut the toenail. Then begin adding toes to individual sessions until you can cut multiple toenails in one session.

Overall, you want your cat to feel as comfortable, safe, and relaxed as possible when getting their nails trimmed. Work with your veterinarian and staff to make nail trims at home and at the clinic the most positive experience possible for your cat.

     

Fear-related Aggression in Cats

December 1, 2021 • Cats CattleDog Publishing Newsletter I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker

By

Sarah Nugen, Class of 2023; Sandra Robbins BS, CVT, VTS (Anesthesia & Analgesia), CPDT-KSA, KPA-CTP; Katharine Schwarz, RVT, KPA CTP

Fear in Cats

Just like us, cats feel fear and their behavior changes in response to it. What makes one cat fearful or anxious may not make another one feel that way. We observe a cat’s body language to understand how they are feeling. Fearful cats make themselves small and are tense. Their bodies will be low to the table or ground, and their legs will be tucked under their bodies. Fearful cats are constantly scanning, and their ears may change directions frequently. Sometimes they are frozen with their ears flattened and their pupils enlarged. Tails may swish or be tucked underneath their bodies. Some cats growl, hiss, swat, scratch, and bite. 
   

This cat is displaying fearful body language. The body is low to the ground, legs tucked under, ears flattened, and pupils dilated.
Dr. Sophia Yin photo collection.

    
Fear-related Aggression

Fear is a normal emotional response in cats, and just because they are fearful does not mean they will respond aggressively. Each cat’s behavior is individual and influenced by environmental stressors, socialization as kittens, and life experiences. For example, a cat may respond aggressively when fearful at a veterinary clinic for a nail trim, whereas other cats may become frozen. In both situations, the cat perceives a person or the nail trim as threatening; however, both are the same fear response but expressed differently. Cats brought in as kittens frequently for nail trims may not be fearful since they had previous positive experiences with lots of treats.

Getting to the Source of Fear-related Aggression

When diagnosing and treating fear aggression, your veterinarian may take a detailed history to determine your cat’s triggers. They will often ask questions about your cat’s behavior and environment.   

  • Who is the target of the aggression? (people, other cats, etc.)?
  • What does your cat look like when this is happening? For example, ear position, tail movement, etc.
  • When did the behavior start?
  • Are there new animals or people in the household?
  • Have there been any changes in the household?
  • Are there any changes in your cat’s energy levels or eating?
  • Are there any changes in your cat’s normal activity?
       

Behavior changes may occur as a result of pain or other medical conditions. A thorough physical exam and other diagnostics, such as X-rays or blood work, may be needed.

Working with a Fear-aggressive Cat

There isn’t one single way to treat fear-related aggression because every cat is different. To help your cat feel safe, provide appropriate hiding and vertical spaces. This may be an elevated cat tree, shelf, or quiet room. It is important that your cat can access these spaces all the time, including when there are visitors. 

Long-term treatment will involve changing emotional and behavioral responses. This is done by reintroducing the triggers, identified in the history in a gradual and systematic way. Food, play, and other rewards may be used for this process. Sometimes medications may be beneficial. Discuss with your veterinarian what may be best for your cat.

     

© Veterinary Information Network. All rights reserved.