Preparing Puppies for Veterinary Visits

January 17, 2023 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Veterinary Professional

By Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Photo Courtesy of Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

The veterinary hospital can be a scary environment for puppies. Everything from the waiting room full of people and animals to handling and restraint during physical exams can be overwhelming. Vaccinations are unexpected and often painful, and stepping on the scale results in panic. It doesn’t have to be this way. With a little bit of preparation at home, you can make veterinary visits low stress. 

Early Socialization

The ideal age to purchase or adopt a puppy is somewhere between eight and ten weeks of age. This gives ample time for your puppy to adjust to their new environment and form relationships with people, dogs, and other animals that share their home. If adopted later in life, puppies will still have opportunities for socialization; however, the process may take longer or never happen at all. 

During the socialization period, puppies need a variety of good experiences however, the quality rather than quantity of these experiences is important. Interactions should never be forced, and the puppy should be closely monitored to make sure they are having fun and want to interact. Food and play are great ways to keep a puppy engaged while positive associations are developing in their mind. 

Socialization with Other Dogs

Dogs are not born instinctively knowing how to “speak dog.” Puppies learn this critical skill through interactions with their mother, littermates, and other dogs living in the home. Giving your puppy opportunities to interact with dogs of all ages, shapes, and sizes will help them master these skills into adulthood. During these interactions, direct supervision is a must. Adult humans should be on hand to make sure all dogs continue to have fun, and frequent play breaks are taken when needed. Dog parks are not an ideal place to learn these skills therefore, “play dates” should only take place with other dogs that are up to date on their vaccines and know how to play politely with other dogs.  

Socialization Classes

Puppy socialization classes, or “Puppy Kindergarten”, provide a great opportunity to socialize your dog in a safe environment. Puppies in these classes are often similar in age, and their vaccine status is known. Classes offered at veterinary hospitals, training facilities, or local shelters will have strict sanitation protocols in place to reduce the spread of disease and keep your puppy safe and healthy.  

When taught by a trained professional, these classes often provide enriched environments full of fun toys that make noise, objects to explore, different surfaces to walk on, and people to interact with. A family affair, children are often encouraged to attend and interact with the dogs while supervised.  Basic social skills are introduced, and house-training strategies are discussed. Learning about “normal” puppy behaviors while troubleshooting solutions to common nuisance-type behaviors like play biting, jumping, and nipping is included. Overall, these classes are a great way to learn from professionals and socialize your puppy at the same time.

Photo Courtesy of Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

Handling Exercises

Handling your puppy’s feet, legs, individual toes, and nails while rewarding constantly using high-value treats can help prepare your puppy for future veterinary exams, nail trims, and grooming procedures. The same is true for touching their mouth and ears. When doing these exercises, it is important to constantly monitor your dog to make sure they are not stressed by these interactions. Never force your dog to accept your touch, and always give them a choice to walk away when they are uncomfortable or not willing to participate. 

Teaching Choice and Problem-Solving Skills

When young, it is impossible to expose your dog to everything they may encounter later in life. Teaching your puppy critical problem-solving skills is important.  Food dispensing and puzzle toys are a great way the engage your dog’s brain, build confidence, and teach independence from you. These tools reduce destructive behaviors and help your dog remain calm and quiet while you watch television, take a phone call, or are stuck on a zoom call. They also reduce frustration and help your dog work through problems they may encounter later in life. 

Training is another way to encourage your dog to use problem-solving skills while building strong relationships with their humans. Positive reinforcement training improves communication between you and your dogs. Learned behaviors such as touch, chin rest, go to a mat, and stationing on side and front feet up on a platform are all behaviors that encourage choice and are the basic foundations for cooperative veterinary and husbandry care.

Photo Courtesy of Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

The Car Ride

Car rides can be scary for puppies, and many will get carsick. Taking your puppy for short frequent rides can be helpful to acclimate your puppy to the car. Treats given at drive-thru windows and rides that end at fun places are all ways to help your puppy associate the car with something fun and exciting. If your puppy does get car sick, talking with your veterinarian about anti-nausea medication can help make the ride more pleasant for you and your puppy. 

Photo Courtesy of Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

Putting it all Together: The Veterinary Hospital

Veterinary visits will never be free of fear but preparing your puppy using the techniques and strategies listed above will make these visits less stressful for all. Dogs that are comfortable riding in cars and have been well-socialized as puppies are less likely to become overwhelmed, anxious, and fearful when arriving at the hospital and entering a crowded waiting room. Due to the positive associations your dog has now formed, handling and restraint by the veterinary team will result in a calm and relaxed dog instead of hiding, trembling, growling, or trying to bite. 

Consent for procedures such as blood draws is freely given because your dog knows what touch and chin rest mean, which makes it easy to position your dog without force. Bringing snuffle mats, licking mats, and frozen feeders from home can be used to encourage your dog to willingly step on the scale, sniff and explore the exam room, and provide distractions when needed during the physical exam and vaccination process.

What Do My Dog’s Kisses and Rollover Really Mean?

January 15, 2023 • Ask LSH Dogs I am a... Pet Owner

By Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Q:  What do my dog’s kisses and rollover really mean?

A:  You may believe when your dog licks you that this is a sign of affection, like kissing. However, dogs usually do not show affection this way, so licking is likely for other reasons, such as taste or anxiety.

Sometimes they are licking your face or hands because they smell food. Since small children are often at your dog’s face level, it is easy for your dog to lick traces of food from around the mouth. This behavior is reinforcing since they get a taste of food, and your child squeals excitedly. Your dog may also lick sweat or water off your arms or legs after exercising, swimming, or showering. These licks are often different and self-reinforced and do not indicate anxiety.

Dogs sometimes lick faces asking for distance. This often happens during play, a hug, or sitting close. This may be a sign that your dog is feeling anxious and needs space. Another sign of discomfort is staring. It is best to turn your head and direct your gaze away. If they do not move, walk away and call your dog using a jolly voice. When they come, direct them to another area. Changing their environment gives them the room needed to avoid escalating tension.

A closer look at your dog’s body language while cuddling or during play with children may show how your dog avoids eye contact, yawns, and licks their lips in an attempt to move the child away. If they feel cornered or the children continue, your dog may growl, raise a lip, snarl, and bite.

Your dog may show discomfort by rolling over on their back. Your dog may be asking for space instead of inviting affection or a belly rub. Context is always important when interpreting body language. The tail may thump very slowly or rapidly, or it might be tucked up against the abdomen. Your dog may lick their lips or close their mouth tightly, look away or sneeze. They may appear frozen while on their back, or they may roll to face away. Talk softly to your dog as you turn and move away, so they feel comfortable to sit up.

If your dog has a slack mouth, soft eyes, and a wagging tail stretched out from their body while they are wiggling on their back, this is more likely an invitation to play. Call them over to you and play with a toy or do activities your dog enjoys. Children should be closely monitored during these interactions.

Kisses or exposed bellies are two potential early signs of anxiety. Rather than encouraging the licking or reaching to rub the belly, move away to reduce their stress. Practice good management and educate your children about respecting your dog’s personal space. Call your dog to you rather than force affection on them.

Behavior Modification for Dogs

December 28, 2022 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Shelter Worker Trainer

By Christine D. Calder DVM DACVB

When it comes to changing behavior, training alone is often not the answer. If your goal is to change behavior long-term, your pet will need behavior modification instead. Training focuses on specific behaviors like coming when called, sitting politely at the door, touching a target with their nose, and walking on a leash without pulling. Behavior modification involves changing behavioral and emotional responses and more specifically, how your pet feels and acts. 

The Five Steps of Behavior Modification

Step One: Avoid all the things that cause the behavior. This may mean stopping all walks, placing your dog away in a “safe haven” before guests arrive, or letting toenails get a little long. While this seems counterproductive, the brain needs a vacation from all things scary to keep the behavior from worsening. During this break, medications may be needed, and new behaviors learned before the behavior modification process can even start. 

Step One: Safe Haven
Courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Step Two: Open the lines of communication between you and your pet. Learn body language so you can understand how your dog or cat is feeling. Reduce anxiety by stopping all corrections or punishments since these methods probably are not working anyway. Instead of saying no or yelling at your pet, reinforce the behaviors you would rather see. 

Step Two: Body Language
Courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Step Three: Build a toolbox of known behaviors such as voluntary eye contact, touch, or a chin rest. These behaviors encourage your pet to “check in” more frequently and can redirect your pet to another activity. Substitute the unwanted behavior with an alternative, like sitting instead of jumping.

Step Three: Voluntary Eye Contact
Courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Step Three: Touch
Courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Step Four: Many pets with behavior problems have trouble settling and focusing. Teaching your pet how to relax is often key to changing behavior long term. Before exposing your pet to the environment or to things that trigger their behavior, they need to learn how to stay calm and keep their anxiety in check.

Step Four: Relax
Courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Step Five: Systematic Desensitization and Counter Conditioning (DS/CC) are used to change behavior long term. This is when triggers, including sounds, people, other animals, objects, and environments, are reintroduced to your pet gradually while controlling distractions and distance. Pair these triggers with good things, like food and play, to change how they feel and respond. 

Step Five: DS/CC
Courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

As you work through the steps above, remember that behavior modification will be a slow process with no quick fixes. If you have questions about your dog’s behavior, always contact your veterinarian. 

Choose Your Enrichment Wisely

December 28, 2022 • Ask LSH Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker

By Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

Photo Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

Q:  How do I know what kind of toys will help with enriching my dog’s behavior? 

A:  Enrichment can be a useful tool in behavior modification. Food dispensing and puzzle toys are great substitutes for meal feeding. Some toys are mentally stimulating, and others help your pet relax. The enrichment choice will vary based on the behavior you wish to reinforce.

Commercially available puzzle toys feature drawers or spinning motions for your dog to manipulate and find treats. You can also make your own enrichment items or use the environment, such as hiding your dog’s food around a room or spread in the grass. Dogs may sniff in the grass to gather information from passersby, but this also helps to calm down.

A snuffle mat used inside the house encourages calmness and relaxation. A simple rubber mat tied with fleece can hold your dog’s kibble, training treats, and other dry food. Finely shredded cheese mixed in the fleece ties can be fun for your dog too. These types of enrichment puzzles can be used during training sessions to extend your dog’s relaxation time on their bed or mat. This is helpful when guests are visiting, or you need quiet time yourself.

Freezing your dog’s own food in the puzzle can make it last longer and encourage your pet to lick. Adding vegetables, fruit, and other treats approved by your veterinarian help to layer and stuff the puzzle for added variety.

Enrichment choice may vary based on the time of day, the environment, and your dog’s emotional needs. Use calming games when children are visiting and stimulating ones for mental and physical activity during a work break. Understand your dog’s needs and choose your reinforcements wisely.

Feline Play and Play Aggression

December 7, 2022 • Behavior Bytes Cats I am a... Veterinary Professional

By Rachel Lees LVMT, KPA CTP, LSHC-Silver, FFCP, VTS (Behavior)

Photo Courtesy Canto Images

Cats are social animals and enjoy interactions with the humans in their lives.  While some cats are particular, others will play with any object, toy, or person.  Some cats prefer social play with their owners and some enjoy playing by themselves or with other animals in the home.  

Cats come pre-wired with hunting skills. Most cats develop preferences for toys that copy normal hunting behaviors such as stalking, chasing, pouncing, grabbing, clawing, and biting. Typical kitten play behaviors often mimic these hunting skills.

Photo Courtesy Canto Images

Play postures develop by three weeks of age and can involve social play with other cats and kittens. If cats do not have an outlet, these behaviors may be used inappropriately, resulting in stalking or attacking moving hands and feet. Introducing routines, finding new ways to play, and engaging your cat with healthy play activities encourage positive behavior. 

Routines can minimize stress and create a predictable pattern for your cat to know how and when they can play. Play times should be at a time of day that works for your schedule. For example, if you are playing with your cat in the evening prior to bed, make sure playtime ends with a special treat that ends the hunting behavior and encourages rest. Toys such as wands, small mice, and fuzzy balls that encourage chasing and do not directly involve interactions with your hands are best. To keep things fresh, it is recommended to have a few toys out at a time and rotate them every two to three days, creating new excitement with each toy rotation. Food puzzles are another alternative to keep your cat engaged.

Outdoor exploration can be difficult to recreate inside. Supervised outdoor time in a catio or on leash and harness creates other positive ways to play, interact, and stimulate hunting behaviors. Some cats enjoy walks in an enclosed pet stroller or backpack carrier. You may need to condition your cat beforehand.

Understanding different ways to safely play and interact will encourage appropriate behaviors and strengthen the relationship between you and your cat.

Asking or Demanding: Cue vs Command

November 18, 2022 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Trainer

By Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Photo Courtesy DepositPhotos

Communication with our pets is important whether we speak to them directly or they read our body language. Training methods using harsh, bossy commands will likely produce different results from using cues said in a jolly voice which will come with rewards.

A command does not consider your dog’s emotional state or their understanding of the training. By asking for a behavior with a cue rather than a command, we are allowing your dog to be a participant in the learning. This minimizes frustration, fear, and aggression. A dog taught with cues may learn faster and enjoy the learning process. 

A command is an order which must be done and carries an implied threat of a consequence or may create a fear of punishment for not completing the task. You might repeat the command, not allow him to refuse, and then push his hips down when teaching sit. Some reasons to consider why your dog might not sit:

  • Their hips hurt.
  • There are many distractions around.
  • The ground was hot, rough, or slippery.
  • They feel unsafe or afraid in the current environment.
  • They do not understand what you are asking.

Photo Courtesy of Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

Ordering or forcing your dog into a sit will increase their fear and make them less likely to perform the behavior when commanded the next time. They may show avoidance or stress behaviors like looking or walking away, licking their lips, or yawning. They may shut down and avoid interacting with you. 

A cue supplies an opportunity to earn a reward. A cue may be a word, scent, sound, gesture, or touch and gives an identification to the behavior. First, the desired behavior must be taught before introducing the cue. This makes sure your dog understands what behavior is expected. Use a marker and reward to communicate to your dog that they have done what you asked and chosen the correct behavior. The cue then identifies when the behavior should reoccur. The reward will motivate your dog to repeat the cued behavior. For example, when teaching your dog to sit initially, a lure may be used to guide your dog into position by moving the treat above and over their head. Their hind end should naturally drop to the floor. Make sure to mark and reward when it does. As an alternative, capturing can be used to teach the same behavior by marking and rewarding your dog when they choose to sit on their own. When this behavior is offered at least 75% of the time, it is time to introduce the cue.

Although a sit might look the same whether cued or commanded, a cued dog is a willing participant and should not appear stressed or afraid. Most importantly, you are addressing their emotional and physical needs while supporting a training relationship built on communication and trust. 

   

   

   

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