Teaching Go To Mat for Cats

March 3, 2023 • Behavior Bytes Cats I am a... Pet Owner Veterinary Professional

By Rebecca Estel King, CDBC

Teaching your cat to go to a mat is an easy behavior that supports exercise, enrichment, and engagement for you and your cat. The goal of this exercise is to teach your cat to run to their mat when given a verbal cue such as “go to”.  Using “go to” gives your cat a correct choice that can be rewarded rather than sitting on books and laptops, running through open doors, or counter surfing. This behavior is invaluable for health and husbandry and a foundation for teaching your cat to voluntarily enter and exit the carrier. 

Training Supplies:

  • Clicker or verbal marker like “yes” (Kitties should be familiar with a clicker or verbal marker before beginning the exercise.)
  • Small, high-value treats
  • Small blanket, rug, or flat fleece mat, about 12” to 18” square

Pro Tips:

  •  Deliver the treat where the behavior should happen.
  •  Create short, exciting sessions of 10-15 repetitions.
  •  Alternate the difficulty of repetitions within each session to keep it interesting.

Step One: Get the Cat on the Mat

Stand or sit facing your cat, place the mat between your feet and your cat. Place a treat on the center of the mat, and mark using the clicker or “yes” to reinforce as your cat walks onto the mat. To keep the exercise fast-paced and exciting, toss a treat one to two feet off the mat, then place another treat on the mat, marking when your cat walks back onto the mat. Tossing treats off the mat is used to move the cat quickly off the mat for speedy, exciting repetitions. Practice this exercise until your cat runs to the mat with all four feet on the mat for at least eight out of 10 repetitions, then move to step two.

Step Two: Mix It Up

As your cat becomes more skilled, toss the treats away from the mat in different directions and distances. Continue to mark and treat when all four feet are on the mat. This shows the mat behavior is understood, not simply walking toward the owner to access treats. When the cat understands moving back and forth on and off the mat in all directions and successfully performs four out of five repetitions reliably, go to step three.

Step Three: Put It On Cue

When your cat crosses the edge of the mat, add a cue like “place” or “mat” in a happy tone of voice. This pairs the cue with standing on the mat and a food treat. Several sessions of pairing the cue will ensure your cat understands that cue equals “go to mat” and “have a treat”. Always use a happy voice; happy cues equal happy cats.

Step Four: Use the Cue to Solicit the Behavior

Begin by placing the mat on the floor when the cat is very close by and give the cue. Mark and treat for going to the mat. Practice at easy distances, gradually working up to greater distances or added distractions, but not both at the same time. If your cat ignores the cue, make it easier, and if that doesn’t help within five repetitions, repeat step three.

Step Five: Generalize Mat Behavior

Practice placing the mat on the floor, and when your cat runs to the mat, mark and treat. Practice in numerous places around the house, including places of differing heights. Always choose a secure landing spot.  

“Go to” can be taught for any place you would like to send your cat. Using the steps above, identify each place with a unique name such as “go to” mat, carrier, or cat tree.

How Do I Prepare My Kitten for Veterinary Visits?

February 15, 2023 • Ask LSH Cats I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Veterinary Professional

By Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Q: How do I prepare my kitten for veterinary visits?

A: A little bit of preparation will reduce stress for both you and your cat when visiting the veterinarian. Cats usually don’t go for frequent car rides, so any trip outside the home may result in increased levels of fear, anxiety, and stress before you even factor in taking your cat to a veterinarian.

Early Socialization

For a cat to be friendly and well-adjusted, early interactions with humans and other animals are important, but genetics often play a significant role in your cat’s behavior. Socialization classes, sometimes called “kitty kindergarten,” offer an opportunity to expose your kitten to handling, carrier training, grooming, and appropriate play with other kittens. Socialization classes can provide a chance to learn about basic cat care, litterbox basics, the importance of enrichment, harness training, and positive reinforcement training.

Handling Exercises

Helping kittens and cats to feel comfortable when picked up or being held, examined, groomed, and during nail trims, reduces anxiety about these procedures in the future. All handling should be done with the addition of food. Things like lickable mats and snuffle mats can free your hands during these interactions.

Carrier Training

If your cat isn’t familiar with a carrier or the carrier is only used to travel to the veterinary office, they are less likely to associate the carrier with something fun or good. Carrier training is one way to make sure your cat enjoys the carrier. Trips are easier and less stressful if your cat is eager to enter the carrier when you bring it out.

A veterinary hospital does not have to can be a scary place for your cat. Bring your lickable mats, favorite toys, and treats with you. Adequate socialization, early handling, and carrier training from a young age will help trips to the veterinary hospital be more predictable and maybe even fun.

Behavioral Euthanasia and Quality of Life Decisions

February 15, 2023 • Birds Cats CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs Exotic Animals Farm Animals Horses I am a... Other Animals Pet Owner Veterinary Professional

By Anneliese Heinrich MSc, DVM; Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Photo Courtesy Phyllis DeGioia, Veterinary Partner Editor

Deciding to euthanize your pet who is sick, debilitated, or injured is difficult and heartbreaking. Sometimes the decision is a logical one if your pet is severely injured or has been diagnosed with an untreatable disease and is clearly suffering. In these cases, the quality of life is poor and will not improve with time, medical care, or love. 

When the issue in question is behavioral, such as after injuring a family member, another pet, or a stranger, the decision for euthanasia may not be clear. Your pet may panic because of noises, people, other animals, or being left home alone. Perhaps they engage in abnormal repetitive behaviors and cannot stop. It can be hard to determine if your pet is suffering because the behavior has not improved.

In human medicine, these types of disorders are referred to as psychological or mental health disorders. There has been a history of discounting psychological disorders, but medical professionals now know that these are diseases, like cancer or diabetes. Sometimes the pet has a true emotional disorder that is not man-made through mistreatment or lack of training. These concerns cannot be solved “with love”, through “putting the animal in its place”, or by taking obedience lessons.

Psychological or behavioral diseases are diseases of the brain, just as cancer is a disease of the cell. Some cancers respond to treatment, some will not. Some will appear to respond initially, then relapse. Cancer which resolves quickly in one individual may be terminal in another. Some cancers generally considered treatable are fatal for others. Some patients may not be able to tolerate the treatment that is designed to save their life. Although veterinary behavioral medicine has progressed so many behavior disorders can be managed and treated, there will be variable responses among animals. 

If you are considering euthanasia for behavioral reasons, there may be alternative options to consider first.

Have You Taken Your Pet to the Veterinarian?

Many behavioral problems have underlying medical conditions that contribute to behavior. Conditions such as ear infections, dental disease, arthritis, and even skin allergies can cause pain and irritability, increasing your pet’s anxiety levels, or resulting in a bite when stressed. Scheduling a check-up with your veterinarian should be first on your list with any noted behavioral change, especially if this change is recent or your pet is older.

Have You Sought Out Professional Help? 

A board-certified veterinary behaviorist is a licensed veterinarian with advanced training in animal behavior for all types of behaviors. Applied Animal Behaviorists also have advanced academic training although these professionals do not need to be licensed veterinarians. Medications may be helpful in treating your pet’s aggression or anxiety problems, but only a licensed veterinarian can prescribe medications for your pet.

A qualified dog trainer can help you implement a management, training, and behavior modification plan often prescribed by your veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist. Unfortunately, experience levels, education, and training methods are not standardized among dog training professionals; therefore, it is important for you to do your homework before hiring a trainer. Understanding that some training methods can do more harm than good is important.

Have You Considered Rehoming? 

This may not be the solution for all pets, but some behavior problems can be managed well in a different environment. Fighting dogs and cats may do better when separated and away from the common stressors in their life. The same for dogs with a bite history towards kids. Sometimes a home without kids is just what your pet needs to feel safe. Not all pets benefit from, nor should be, rehomed.  In general, finding a new and safe home for your pet can be difficult. Animals with behavior problems are often at greater risk for abuse and neglect in new environments because, in these situations, they may not have as close of a relationship with the new owners as they did with you.

What Are Some Criteria To Consider When Making the Decision To Euthanize Your Pet?

If there are young children or elderly relatives in the home, they are often at a higher risk for injuries related to bites and scratches. Also, behavior modification can be difficult or impossible for some depending on the living situation and commitment made to the pet. Liability is always a concern along with safety for you, your family, and other pets in the home.

Rehoming is not an option. Some animals are not safe in any home. Most shelters will not adopt out animals with a bite history or a history of aggression towards other animals. Cats that eliminate outside the litterbox can also be harder to place. Transparency in shelter adoptions is important from both a legal and ethical standpoint.

Emotional well-being and mental suffering may not be as visible to us as physical pain and disease but can significantly affect your pet’s quality of life and, therefore, yours. When making euthanasia decisions, it is important to consider your pet’s overall emotional state and well-being.  

Remember, behavioral euthanasia is a hard decision, so have all the information before making that phone call. There is never a wrong answer but if you make this decision, it is important to know you are not alone and will always be supported.

Working with your veterinarian to explore medical options, you may decide that euthanasia is the best choice for your pet, your family, or the public. Regardless of the psychological cause, euthanasia may be a valid treatment plan and may be the only option. Behavioral euthanasia is hard for both the family and the veterinary team. Mutual respect and open communication without preconceived opinions or biases are important for everyone involved.

Capturing Desirable Behaviors

February 2, 2023 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Trainer

By Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

Photo Courtesy Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB (Veterinary Behaviorist)

You can improve your dog’s behavior in just a few minutes daily. By focusing on the desirable behaviors your dog does naturally rather than correcting the undesirable ones, you are building a stronger relationship without force or stress. Set your dog up for success by marking for easy behaviors, not unknown complicated ones.

Choose one or two behaviors each week that you want your dog to do consistently. For busy dogs, reinforce for lying quietly on their bed. To reduce barking, reward for silence as your dog watches someone walk by your house. To stop begging at the dinner table, treat your dog for choosing to lie on a mat several feet away.

Photo Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

Following this simple game captures the “good” behavior while ignoring the “bad”.  By not prompting your dog to do a specific behavior, such as sit or down, you create a thinking dog, and as the days go by, they will start to offer only reinforced behaviors.

  1. Count out the same number of dry kibble from your dog’s daily food intake. This could be 10 or 20 pieces for a small dog or 50 or more pieces for a large breed. You can withhold half from their breakfast portion and the other half from dinner or start out with the full amount to use throughout the day. High-value, low-calorie treats may be used in place of some kibble.
  2. Either carry the food in your pocket or have it easily accessible in central locations. 
  3. Throughout the day, when your dog offers the behavior you want, encourage them by marking that moment with a clicker or a verbal word such as “yes”. 
  4. Give them a piece of kibble from your budgeted quantity and go about your business. By doing this, you are capturing good behavior like a snapshot. This reinforcement increases the likelihood they will repeat that behavior. 
  5. Spend a week working on one or two behaviors, then switch to a different one the following week. Over time, build up to more complicated ones such as rewarding your dog for bringing you a toy instead of jumping on you when you walk through the door.

After a few days, your dog will offer the desired behaviors faster than the undesired ones. You should find your dog to be calmer and your relationship stronger as you go through your kibble supply more quickly each day.  

Preparing Puppies for Veterinary Visits

January 17, 2023 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Veterinary Professional

By Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Photo Courtesy of Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

The veterinary hospital can be a scary environment for puppies. Everything from the waiting room full of people and animals to handling and restraint during physical exams can be overwhelming. Vaccinations are unexpected and often painful, and stepping on the scale results in panic. It doesn’t have to be this way. With a little bit of preparation at home, you can make veterinary visits low stress. 

Early Socialization

The ideal age to purchase or adopt a puppy is somewhere between eight and ten weeks of age. This gives ample time for your puppy to adjust to their new environment and form relationships with people, dogs, and other animals that share their home. If adopted later in life, puppies will still have opportunities for socialization; however, the process may take longer or never happen at all. 

During the socialization period, puppies need a variety of good experiences however, the quality rather than quantity of these experiences is important. Interactions should never be forced, and the puppy should be closely monitored to make sure they are having fun and want to interact. Food and play are great ways to keep a puppy engaged while positive associations are developing in their mind. 

Socialization with Other Dogs

Dogs are not born instinctively knowing how to “speak dog.” Puppies learn this critical skill through interactions with their mother, littermates, and other dogs living in the home. Giving your puppy opportunities to interact with dogs of all ages, shapes, and sizes will help them master these skills into adulthood. During these interactions, direct supervision is a must. Adult humans should be on hand to make sure all dogs continue to have fun, and frequent play breaks are taken when needed. Dog parks are not an ideal place to learn these skills therefore, “play dates” should only take place with other dogs that are up to date on their vaccines and know how to play politely with other dogs.  

Socialization Classes

Puppy socialization classes, or “Puppy Kindergarten”, provide a great opportunity to socialize your dog in a safe environment. Puppies in these classes are often similar in age, and their vaccine status is known. Classes offered at veterinary hospitals, training facilities, or local shelters will have strict sanitation protocols in place to reduce the spread of disease and keep your puppy safe and healthy.  

When taught by a trained professional, these classes often provide enriched environments full of fun toys that make noise, objects to explore, different surfaces to walk on, and people to interact with. A family affair, children are often encouraged to attend and interact with the dogs while supervised.  Basic social skills are introduced, and house-training strategies are discussed. Learning about “normal” puppy behaviors while troubleshooting solutions to common nuisance-type behaviors like play biting, jumping, and nipping is included. Overall, these classes are a great way to learn from professionals and socialize your puppy at the same time.

Photo Courtesy of Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

Handling Exercises

Handling your puppy’s feet, legs, individual toes, and nails while rewarding constantly using high-value treats can help prepare your puppy for future veterinary exams, nail trims, and grooming procedures. The same is true for touching their mouth and ears. When doing these exercises, it is important to constantly monitor your dog to make sure they are not stressed by these interactions. Never force your dog to accept your touch, and always give them a choice to walk away when they are uncomfortable or not willing to participate. 

Teaching Choice and Problem-Solving Skills

When young, it is impossible to expose your dog to everything they may encounter later in life. Teaching your puppy critical problem-solving skills is important.  Food dispensing and puzzle toys are a great way the engage your dog’s brain, build confidence, and teach independence from you. These tools reduce destructive behaviors and help your dog remain calm and quiet while you watch television, take a phone call, or are stuck on a zoom call. They also reduce frustration and help your dog work through problems they may encounter later in life. 

Training is another way to encourage your dog to use problem-solving skills while building strong relationships with their humans. Positive reinforcement training improves communication between you and your dogs. Learned behaviors such as touch, chin rest, go to a mat, and stationing on side and front feet up on a platform are all behaviors that encourage choice and are the basic foundations for cooperative veterinary and husbandry care.

Photo Courtesy of Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

The Car Ride

Car rides can be scary for puppies, and many will get carsick. Taking your puppy for short frequent rides can be helpful to acclimate your puppy to the car. Treats given at drive-thru windows and rides that end at fun places are all ways to help your puppy associate the car with something fun and exciting. If your puppy does get car sick, talking with your veterinarian about anti-nausea medication can help make the ride more pleasant for you and your puppy. 

Photo Courtesy of Christine Calder, DVM, DACVB

Putting it all Together: The Veterinary Hospital

Veterinary visits will never be free of fear but preparing your puppy using the techniques and strategies listed above will make these visits less stressful for all. Dogs that are comfortable riding in cars and have been well-socialized as puppies are less likely to become overwhelmed, anxious, and fearful when arriving at the hospital and entering a crowded waiting room. Due to the positive associations your dog has now formed, handling and restraint by the veterinary team will result in a calm and relaxed dog instead of hiding, trembling, growling, or trying to bite. 

Consent for procedures such as blood draws is freely given because your dog knows what touch and chin rest mean, which makes it easy to position your dog without force. Bringing snuffle mats, licking mats, and frozen feeders from home can be used to encourage your dog to willingly step on the scale, sniff and explore the exam room, and provide distractions when needed during the physical exam and vaccination process.

What Do My Dog’s Kisses and Rollover Really Mean?

January 15, 2023 • Ask LSH Dogs I am a... Pet Owner

By Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Q:  What do my dog’s kisses and rollover really mean?

A:  You may believe when your dog licks you that this is a sign of affection, like kissing. However, dogs usually do not show affection this way, so licking is likely for other reasons, such as taste or anxiety.

Sometimes they are licking your face or hands because they smell food. Since small children are often at your dog’s face level, it is easy for your dog to lick traces of food from around the mouth. This behavior is reinforcing since they get a taste of food, and your child squeals excitedly. Your dog may also lick sweat or water off your arms or legs after exercising, swimming, or showering. These licks are often different and self-reinforced and do not indicate anxiety.

Dogs sometimes lick faces asking for distance. This often happens during play, a hug, or sitting close. This may be a sign that your dog is feeling anxious and needs space. Another sign of discomfort is staring. It is best to turn your head and direct your gaze away. If they do not move, walk away and call your dog using a jolly voice. When they come, direct them to another area. Changing their environment gives them the room needed to avoid escalating tension.

A closer look at your dog’s body language while cuddling or during play with children may show how your dog avoids eye contact, yawns, and licks their lips in an attempt to move the child away. If they feel cornered or the children continue, your dog may growl, raise a lip, snarl, and bite.

Your dog may show discomfort by rolling over on their back. Your dog may be asking for space instead of inviting affection or a belly rub. Context is always important when interpreting body language. The tail may thump very slowly or rapidly, or it might be tucked up against the abdomen. Your dog may lick their lips or close their mouth tightly, look away or sneeze. They may appear frozen while on their back, or they may roll to face away. Talk softly to your dog as you turn and move away, so they feel comfortable to sit up.

If your dog has a slack mouth, soft eyes, and a wagging tail stretched out from their body while they are wiggling on their back, this is more likely an invitation to play. Call them over to you and play with a toy or do activities your dog enjoys. Children should be closely monitored during these interactions.

Kisses or exposed bellies are two potential early signs of anxiety. Rather than encouraging the licking or reaching to rub the belly, move away to reduce their stress. Practice good management and educate your children about respecting your dog’s personal space. Call your dog to you rather than force affection on them.

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