Hyperesthesia Syndrome in Cats

Tuxedo cat showing signs of Hyperesthesia Syndrome

This cat is showing signs of Hyperesthesia Syndrome

Feline hyperesthesia syndrome (FHS) is known by several names including “rolling skin disease”, “neurodermatitis”, neuritis, psychomotor epilepsy, and pruritic dermatitis. Hyperesthesia means “too much feeling.” It can be difficult to determine whether the cause is behavioral or medical without additional diagnostics, such as an MRI or EEG.

Clinical signs of feline hyperesthesia syndrome (FSH) can range from mild to self-mutilating. Common behaviors seen include:

  • rippling or rolling of skin and muscles over the back, ears, head, or tail;
  • excessive staring at their tail, then attacking their tail or sides;
  • biting at the base of their tail, front legs, and paws;
  • running around while meowing in a distressed manner;
  • aggression towards people or other cats. Some cats may show an increase in affectionate behavior;
  • big, dark, round (dilated) pupils.

To diagnose FHS, other conditions related to the skin and nervous system must be ruled out first. These include:

  • dermatologic causes: flea, food, environmental, or seasonal allergies; skin infections or parasites, auto-immune diseases, anal sac disease;
  • neurological conditions such as seizures or neuromas (painful nerve bundle) which may form in cats after declaws or tail injuries;
  • pain: frostbite and orthopedic conditions such as arthritis, injury to the tail, hips, or back;
  • compulsive disorders: may be a primary behavior problem starting from one of the above conditions, then worsening over time;
  • toxins: Pyrethrin/pyrethroid, Organophosphate/carbamate toxicosis;
  • gastrointestinal diseases that are accompanied by changes to appetite, vomiting or diarrhea, flatulence or constipation;
  • urinary conditions, particularly in male cats with a urinary blockage.

To rule out underlying medical causes, expect your veterinarian to do a full physical, orthopedic, and neurological exam to determine the cause. Diagnostics may include radiographs, blood work or urinalysis, skin swabs or skin scrapes.

Treatment for FHS depends on the cause. Your veterinarian may recommend medications, supplements, weight loss or rehabilitation. Treatment of skin conditions may require antibiotics, medications for itch and inflammation or diet change.

If a physical cause cannot be found, antidepressant and anti-anxiety medications may be prescribed.

In addition to medications, there are some treatments that apply to all cats with clinical signs of FHS such as:

  • avoid known situations that cause the behavior in your cat, such as petting;
  • avoid punishing the behavior verbally or physically. This causes conflict and is not likely to stop the behavior;
  • provide a calm, predictable environment for your cat;
  • provide different types of enrichment; 

Dr. Sophia Yin’s Philosophies on Early Learning Theories

Dr. Sophia Yin and yellow cat

Image Courtesy of the Dr. Sophia Yin Collection

Dr. Sophia Yin, DVM, CAAB, MS was a veterinarian, animal behaviorist, author, and the creator of Low Stress Handling®.  

Through  scientific methods, rigorous research and testing, she created the techniques which are the foundations of Low Stress Handling® and are the origins for many modern animal behavior and training programs. To this day, her methodology has been used in schools and clinics all around the world and her teachings have shaped the new standard of care for veterinary professionals, pet professionals, shelter workers, and pet owners. Dr. Yin passed away in September of 2014, but through CattleDog Publishing and VIN, the Veterinary Information Network, her work and legacy lives on.

Dr. Yin knew from personal experience the hardship of having a reactive, anxious pet and no resources for professional help. She saw around her the many shattered relationships between misunderstood pets and their frustrated human companions. As a result, her mission became a desire to understand animals and their behavior so that the rest of us could care for, appreciate, and enjoy our time with them harmoniously.

Sophia learned that every pet needs a human who can lead, not like a boss but like a partner in a dance. A pet needs a teacher who gives clear signals, rewards desirable behaviors, removes rewards for inappropriate ones, and trains predictably and consistently. She realized that since animals do not understand the spoken word, they rely on reading body language to adjust their own behaviors. Humans then must be aware of their own movement and actions because every move influences the animal’s behavior and perception.

Her hands-on experience was as extensive as her education. Dr. Yin worked at San Francisco Veterinary Specialists, wrote for veterinary and popular magazines, and consulted for many zoos. In addition, she also lectured, taught workshops internationally on animal behavior and Low Stress Handling®, and was a behavior expert for shows such as Dogs 101 on Animal Planet. She served on the executive board for the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) Handling Guidelines Committee, and the American Humane Association (AHA) Animal Behavior and Training Advisory Committee. Dr. Yin was a respected author and creator of multiple educational resources that addressed animal care, handling, and training.

Why Sophia Chose the Behavior Field

Like most of her colleagues, she knew from a young age that she wanted to be a veterinarian. Sophia worked in kennels, veterinary hospitals, any animal experience she could. She majored in one of the most rigorous college science majors: biochemistry. In 1993, she achieved her dream and graduated from the University of California–Davis School of Veterinary Medicine. Dr. Yin then started in private practice as a veterinarian.

Over time, she noticed more patients had behavior concerns than medical ones. Because of previous experience with her own dog, she made it a priority to discuss potentially serious behavioral issues and to counsel those who wanted help. The problems were too involved to address during a regular office visit with the basic dog training skills she knew, so Sophia returned to school to learn more about behavior.

Image Courtesy of the Dr. Sophia Yin Collection

A Well-Rounded Approach

To specialize in behavior, veterinarians can follow a two- to three-year clinical residency conducting behavior consults and clinical research. Instead they may instead pursue a Master’s Degree or Ph.D. by completing courses and performing research to fulfill requirements set by the Animal Behavior Society, and gain clinical experience.

Sophia’s chosen path combined animal behavior experiences with a Master’s in Animal Science at UC Davis under Dr. Edward Price. During that time, she researched barking in dogs, passed her behavior courses, conducted numerous animal behavior projects, participated in lectures, and was a teaching assistant in biochemistry.

Traditional Force Training vs. Leadership Without Force 

In Dr. Sophia’s Own Words: 

“We’ve all heard the old school advice relating dog behavior to wolf social behavior: Show your dog you are the boss, the alpha. Twenty years ago when I started training, that was the advice I gave because it was all I knew. Like everyone else, the choke chain, pinch collar and a well-timed correction formed the cornerstone of dog training for me. I thought that dominance was the root of all behavior problems. Combined with a strong ability to read aggressive dogs, a lack of fear of being bitten, and fervor for trying to master the techniques of whomever I could, these methods and ideologies served me well. They were the methods of the traditional dog trainer, now sometimes called a balanced dog trainer if rewards are sometimes used.

Because I am always searching for ways to improve, as knowledge of dog and wolf behavior trickled down from the research and field scientists, my knowledge of animal behavior expanded and consequently my philosophies changed. 

In the past two decades, our understanding of dog behavior in relation to wolves, as well as our understanding of dominance and social hierarchies has advanced. Wolf biologists now rarely use the term alpha when referring to pack leaders in the wild. Careful observation has revealed that dominant wolves do not force subordinates onto their back (incorrectly termed an alpha roll). Rather  subordinates offer the posture as a sign of deference (more appropriate term, submissive roll). In addition, ethologists agree that studies on the process of domestication and on canine communication are making it more and more clear that a dog is not a wolf.”

Dominance is Not the Root of Bad Behavior

It is also now clear that dominance is generally not the cause of bad behavior and is evident once you know the definition of dominance. In animal behavior, dominance is defined as a relationship between individuals that is established by force, aggression and submission in order to gain priority access to resources. A dominance relationship is not established until one individual consistently submits. With this definition in mind, it is clear that most of the unruly behaviors we see in our pets are not due to a desire to gain higher rank. Consequently, dominance theory becomes irrelevant for most behavior problems in our pets.

Leadership Without Force

Studies on learning and behavior of the last 60+ years have shown us that animals (and humans) behave in undesirable ways because these behaviors have been reinforced. To change behavior, we have to remove the rewards for undesirable behavior and instead reward good behavior.

That simple approach, along with attention to timing, body language, and motivation, forms the basis for establishing a relationship of trust between the human and the pet. Training becomes a joy rather than a chore and the methods open up a whole new connection with your pet.

A Better Way of Training

The newer approach to training considers the animal’s motivations for learning, their comprehension, and the incremental steps for learning. The philosophy is simple and direct.

Keys to Modifying Behavior

Modification is surprisingly simple and easy at least for the pet. Animals do what is rewarding to them. We can change their behavior by no longer rewarding inappropriate ones and rewarding those which we deem appropriate. The challenge is human involvement because it requires observation and modifying our own habits when pets are around. As a result, we are always communicating so every interaction we have with the pet is a training session.

Learn to Lead – Like a Partner in a Dance

Once we approach behavior modification in this manner, we realize training is like a dance. When partners dance as a couple, one leads and the other follows. The leader decides which steps to perform and then guides his partner clearly so the partner can follow.

Training animals requires an understanding of the big dance and an ability to break the movements down into little steps. Little differences in movement can make big differences in behavior. We convey this to the animal through our body language and perfectly timed rewards. We set rules by rewarding good behaviors and removing rewards for inappropriate behavior. Good behavior will become a habit.

The Use of Punishment and an Animal’s Emotional State

Training also needs to address the underlying emotional state. If an animal is fearful, a leader who “dominates” will not change the emotions.

The use of force in training can cause animals to seem stubborn and willful when they are actually frustrated and confused. They will have little motivation to perform the commanded behaviors other than the desire to avoid fear and pain. Punishment does not take into consideration the motivation of the animal nor does it tell them what they should be doing. Instead, punishment just tells them what they should not be doing.

The purpose of force in most cases is to stop a behavior. Overall, force suppresses behavior only temporarily, especially when the animal is not rewarded for appropriate behaviors, nor does it address the underlying emotional state.

Humans fall back on punishment because it is easier to react in the moment to a problem than to think about how to prevent the problem instead. Instead, be proactive and remove the “punishment” crutch.

What Is Consent?

Photo of Willy Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

Q: My vet suggested I work on consent training with my dog for his insulin injections. What does that mean?

A: Consent is a hot buzzword in the animal behavior and training world. But what does consent really mean? Consent means your dog is giving permission before allowing something to happen to them. So, if dogs can’t talk, how do they give consent? They do this by offering consent behaviors voluntarily.

Consent training is your pet’s choice and can be used with any animal. This type of training creates a stronger relationship between you and your pet. When freely offered, these behaviors indicate your dog’s trust in you.

Pet owners can use this training for all types of handling:

  • grooming;
  • giving medications and injections;
  • medical procedures and exams;
  • nail trims;
  • physical therapy;
  • massage.

Communication is key with consent training. Your pet can be taught to demonstrate that they are willing participants in whatever comes next. If they do not offer a consent behavior, they are saying no, and this choice must be recognized and honored to keep that trust. If your dog repeatedly says no, then address what might be concerning them, such as a noisy environment or perhaps pain restricting their ability to get into position. It may be that they do not understand what you are asking.

Because dogs do not speak the same language as humans, their consent requires different communication skills than a person might give. You are capturing and shaping known behaviors which can be used as start buttons. When your dog performs the “start”, they are signaling their permission for you to continue with any procedure.

Petting is a common example of when consent should be requested. It is important never to invade a dog’s personal space and always ask them to come to you. If they do, and they are relaxed, you can try petting them along their shoulders and sides, then stop. If they look to you for more, nudge your hand, or lean against you, they are likely giving their permission for you to continue. 

You can also use behaviors for consent training that your dog already knows, such as sitting to put on their harness. It is important that your dog always has the option to walk away from these interactions if they need a break. Nose targeting to a cabinet full of grooming supplies could be a cue from your dog requesting brushing.

Your dog can also demonstrate consent with any new behaviors you teach, such as:

  • stationing to a mat platform;
  • offering a chin rest;
  • lying down on their side;
  • offering a paw.

Photo of Willy Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

By using consent training, you are providing your dog opportunities to opt-in or out. If they do not perform the start button, give them a break, and evaluate why they may not want the procedure done. Start with simpler procedures and increase the reinforcement value.

By giving them this communication tool, you are giving them choices, minimizing stress, and removing force. They will be more trusting, happier, and likely have fewer behavior concerns. 

Teaching Your Puppy to Love Their Leash Equipment

Walking is an activity that you look forward to when bringing home your new puppy. When taking your puppy out for a leash walks, equipment such as a collar, harness, and leash are needed. Your puppy should feel comfortable wearing these items to ensure successful future walks. Before placing this equipment on for the first time, it must slowly be introduced. By pairing the sight of the collar and leash with food, your puppy should quickly form positive associations. The presence of the equipment will predict tasty treats, creating a positive emotional response to the leash and collar.

Items You Will Need

  • Equipment for the session (leash, collar, and harness)
  • Treats
  • Clicker or verbal marker “yes” 

Guidelines for Conditioning Your Puppy to Their Equipment

  • Go slowly. The goal is to teach your puppy that the walking gear predicts tasty treats.
  • Timing is everything. Present the leash and collar first, followed by treats. When the equipment disappears, then so do the treats.
  • Never put a collar or harness on without first conditioning your puppy.
  • If they are displaying any signs of stress, stop and go back to the last successful step which did not produce a fearful response.  

Body Language That Can Indicate Stress

  • Panting
  • Lip licking
  • Looking away
  • Moving away (pulling head back)
  • Tucked tail
  • Ears back
  • Walking away
  • Yawning
  • Scratching at their harness or collar once it is on

Training sessions should be one to two minutes. Progress at the puppy’s pace and only present one piece of equipment at a time. If your puppy begins to use the piece of equipment as a chew toy, redirect the puppy by tossing a treat.

Step 1: Place the harness on the ground in front of your puppy and sprinkle treats around the harness.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Step 2: Once they are done eating, pick up the harness and put it behind your back. Then go back to step one. 

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Repeat these steps until your puppy approaches and interacts with the harness willingly. You should see ears pointed forward, tail wagging loosely, and relaxed body language.

What Is Low Stress Handling®?

Many dogs and cats experience distress at the veterinary hospital. When experiencing these emotions, pets can resist treatment, be difficult to examine, and may even become aggressive. Creating a less stressful environment, monitoring emotional states, and developing individual handling plans can help keep pets feeling safe and more relaxed during visits.

Low Stress Handling® is an educational program created to teach veterinarians and their team members humane and effective approaches to patient handling and restraint. Developed by Sophia Yin, DVM, CAAB, MS Animal Science and animal behaviorist, the program centers around Ten Handling Principles. The principles teach veterinary team members how to better understand and communicate with their patients while handling them skillfully and safely.

Dr. Sophia Yin’s Ten Handling Principles:

  1.  Start with a comfortable environment.
  2.  Keep the animal from pacing, moving nervously or excitedly, squirming, or suddenly trying to escape.
  3.  Support the animal well by having your hands, arms, and body positioned appropriately. The pet should not feel as if they will fall or is off balance.
  4.  Avoid causing resistance in the pet. Move deliberately and slowly to avoid reflex resistance or escape behavior.
  5.  Know how to place your hands and body to control movement in any direction.
  6.  Wait until the patient is relaxed before starting a procedure.
  7.  Use minimal and appropriate restraint.
  8.  Avoid prolonged struggling (more than two seconds for cats and three seconds for dogs) or repeated fighting or struggling.
  9.  Use distractions and rewards.
  10.  Adjust your handling based on the individual animal and their response to restraint.

A comprehensive program, Low Stress Handling® encompasses more than just individual handling and restraint of animals. Dr. Yin emphasized that fear and anxiety start even before the animal arrives at the veterinary hospital and that our greetings and subsequent interactions significantly impact the animal’s overall emotional well-being and behavior. Counterconditioning can make a difference. At-home medications and sedation should be utilized early in the process creating individualized handling plans based on the specific needs of the animal in front of you.

In addition to veterinary hospitals, the late Dr. Yin’s Low Stress Handling® concepts and teachings are applicable to all pet professionals including shelter and rescue team members, trainers, military dog handlers, and groomers.

Enrichment for Backyard Birds

Photo Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Chickens, ducks, geese, and other “backyard birds” can be quite social and be wonderful pets. They need appropriate predator-proof housing, medical care, food, water, and enrichment. Enrichment helps your birds to thrive mentally and physically, and different species of birds may have their own unique enrichment needs.

Dirt Baths

Chickens not only enjoy a dust or dirt bath but need it for good health. This activity reduces parasites on the feathers, keeps them cooler, and helps to distribute natural oils through the preening process during these baths.

If a natural dirt hole does not exist, you can make one using a low-sided kitty litter pan with added sand or dirt which does not have any added fertilizer or chemicals. The litter pan needs to be big enough for large breed chickens like Bielfelders or Jersey Giant to get their bodies down in the dirt.

Snuffle Mats, Snuffle Balls, and Dog Puzzle Bowls

Ducks and chickens can both forage in snuffle mats. This is a great option when the ground is frozen. Black soldier fly larvae, mealworms, berries, and seeds can be sprinkled in a snuffle mat.

In warmer months, snuffle mats can be made of grass. If your chicken run does not have grass, then you can grow oat grass in trays. When the grass reaches one to two inches tall, sprinkle in treats and give the tray to your birds. They will forage for the treats, eat the grass, and dig in the dirt which are all normal bird behaviors. 

Dog puzzle bowls and snuffle balls can be filled with snacks or food so that birds can forage. Birds also enjoy chasing and rolling the balls around.

Herb Planters

Plant perennial herbs like mint, thyme, and oregano in planter boxes. Once they are well established, you can place them in your chicken run. Put chicken wire over the boxes so that the birds can get to the plants but not dig in the dirt. 

Hanging Food Activity

Kale leaves hanging from clothes pins can create a fun foraging activity for birds. Cabbage heads or homemade suet-type blocks can be suspended. The birds will stretch and hop up to get the treats, just like they would naturally jump at low-hanging branches.

Kiddie Pools for Ducks and Other Waterfowl

Ducks love the water and need it for good health and grooming. Providing a kiddie pool for swimming can be great entertainment for the ducks. Ducks will swim even in cold weather.

Deeper pools give ducks an opportunity to dive under the water but be sure to provide them with a ramp or other safe access in and out of the water.

Buckets and Other Water Sources

When a pool is not an option, buckets can be used so your ducks can fully submerge their head daily. This is not just enriching for the duck but also needed for good health and grooming. 

Foraging for food in water

Ducks enjoy foraging for food in water. Sprinkle berries, peas, insects, sprouts, or vegetable peels in a deep dish or pool. Waterfowl maintenance food, sold commercially, floats on the water and can be fed daily to ducks and other waterfowl as their regular diet.

Photo Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Exploring

If given the space, chickens and ducks can cover a lot of ground in a day, foraging for insects and plants along the way. While many ducks and chickens can live in small spaces, they should still have opportunities to explore and forage safely. If possible, allow for free-ranging times when you can monitor them or create a “chicken tractor” to allow the birds to safely move from one area to the next.

Clicker Training

Chickens and ducks can be clicker trained. Teach them to hop up on a platform, to target an object with their beak, or to come when called. 

Photo Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Roosting 

Chickens and Muscovy ducks will typically roost at night in the coop. This provides a safe and draft-free place to sleep. When given the option, many will also roost during the day in their run. 

Covered Outside Space

A covered run gives your birds space for enrichment opportunities year-round, regardless of the weather. Keep snuffle mats, dust baths, and other enrichment items dry and safe from bad weather. Greenhouse plastic on the roof and sides helps keep this space warm while hardware cloth keeps your birds safe from predators. 

Birds are natural problem solvers and enjoy interacting with enrichment activities. By providing enrichment and meeting their specific needs, backyard birds can be a wonderful addition to your family. You may be surprised by how much personality they have.