Teaching Your Puppy to Love Their Leash Equipment

Walking is an activity that you look forward to when bringing home your new puppy. When taking your puppy out for a leash walks, equipment such as a collar, harness, and leash are needed. Your puppy should feel comfortable wearing these items to ensure successful future walks. Before placing this equipment on for the first time, it must slowly be introduced. By pairing the sight of the collar and leash with food, your puppy should quickly form positive associations. The presence of the equipment will predict tasty treats, creating a positive emotional response to the leash and collar.

Items You Will Need

  • Equipment for the session (leash, collar, and harness)
  • Treats
  • Clicker or verbal marker “yes” 

Guidelines for Conditioning Your Puppy to Their Equipment

  • Go slowly. The goal is to teach your puppy that the walking gear predicts tasty treats.
  • Timing is everything. Present the leash and collar first, followed by treats. When the equipment disappears, then so do the treats.
  • Never put a collar or harness on without first conditioning your puppy.
  • If they are displaying any signs of stress, stop and go back to the last successful step which did not produce a fearful response.  

Body Language That Can Indicate Stress

  • Panting
  • Lip licking
  • Looking away
  • Moving away (pulling head back)
  • Tucked tail
  • Ears back
  • Walking away
  • Yawning
  • Scratching at their harness or collar once it is on

Training sessions should be one to two minutes. Progress at the puppy’s pace and only present one piece of equipment at a time. If your puppy begins to use the piece of equipment as a chew toy, redirect the puppy by tossing a treat.

Step 1: Place the harness on the ground in front of your puppy and sprinkle treats around the harness.

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Step 2: Once they are done eating, pick up the harness and put it behind your back. Then go back to step one. 

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Repeat these steps until your puppy approaches and interacts with the harness willingly. You should see ears pointed forward, tail wagging loosely, and relaxed body language.

What Is Low Stress Handling®?

Many dogs and cats experience distress at the veterinary hospital. When experiencing these emotions, pets can resist treatment, be difficult to examine, and may even become aggressive. Creating a less stressful environment, monitoring emotional states, and developing individual handling plans can help keep pets feeling safe and more relaxed during visits.

Low Stress Handling® is an educational program created to teach veterinarians and their team members humane and effective approaches to patient handling and restraint. Developed by Sophia Yin, DVM, CAAB, MS Animal Science and animal behaviorist, the program centers around Ten Handling Principles. The principles teach veterinary team members how to better understand and communicate with their patients while handling them skillfully and safely.

Dr. Sophia Yin’s Ten Handling Principles:

  1.  Start with a comfortable environment.
  2.  Keep the animal from pacing, moving nervously or excitedly, squirming, or suddenly trying to escape.
  3.  Support the animal well by having your hands, arms, and body positioned appropriately. The pet should not feel as if they will fall or is off balance.
  4.  Avoid causing resistance in the pet. Move deliberately and slowly to avoid reflex resistance or escape behavior.
  5.  Know how to place your hands and body to control movement in any direction.
  6.  Wait until the patient is relaxed before starting a procedure.
  7.  Use minimal and appropriate restraint.
  8.  Avoid prolonged struggling (more than two seconds for cats and three seconds for dogs) or repeated fighting or struggling.
  9.  Use distractions and rewards.
  10.  Adjust your handling based on the individual animal and their response to restraint.

A comprehensive program, Low Stress Handling® encompasses more than just individual handling and restraint of animals. Dr. Yin emphasized that fear and anxiety start even before the animal arrives at the veterinary hospital and that our greetings and subsequent interactions significantly impact the animal’s overall emotional well-being and behavior. Counterconditioning can make a difference. At-home medications and sedation should be utilized early in the process creating individualized handling plans based on the specific needs of the animal in front of you.

In addition to veterinary hospitals, the late Dr. Yin’s Low Stress Handling® concepts and teachings are applicable to all pet professionals including shelter and rescue team members, trainers, military dog handlers, and groomers.

Enrichment for Backyard Birds

Photo Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Chickens, ducks, geese, and other “backyard birds” can be quite social and be wonderful pets. They need appropriate predator-proof housing, medical care, food, water, and enrichment. Enrichment helps your birds to thrive mentally and physically, and different species of birds may have their own unique enrichment needs.

Dirt Baths

Chickens not only enjoy a dust or dirt bath but need it for good health. This activity reduces parasites on the feathers, keeps them cooler, and helps to distribute natural oils through the preening process during these baths.

If a natural dirt hole does not exist, you can make one using a low-sided kitty litter pan with added sand or dirt which does not have any added fertilizer or chemicals. The litter pan needs to be big enough for large breed chickens like Bielfelders or Jersey Giant to get their bodies down in the dirt.

Snuffle Mats, Snuffle Balls, and Dog Puzzle Bowls

Ducks and chickens can both forage in snuffle mats. This is a great option when the ground is frozen. Black soldier fly larvae, mealworms, berries, and seeds can be sprinkled in a snuffle mat.

In warmer months, snuffle mats can be made of grass. If your chicken run does not have grass, then you can grow oat grass in trays. When the grass reaches one to two inches tall, sprinkle in treats and give the tray to your birds. They will forage for the treats, eat the grass, and dig in the dirt which are all normal bird behaviors. 

Dog puzzle bowls and snuffle balls can be filled with snacks or food so that birds can forage. Birds also enjoy chasing and rolling the balls around.

Herb Planters

Plant perennial herbs like mint, thyme, and oregano in planter boxes. Once they are well established, you can place them in your chicken run. Put chicken wire over the boxes so that the birds can get to the plants but not dig in the dirt. 

Hanging Food Activity

Kale leaves hanging from clothes pins can create a fun foraging activity for birds. Cabbage heads or homemade suet-type blocks can be suspended. The birds will stretch and hop up to get the treats, just like they would naturally jump at low-hanging branches.

Kiddie Pools for Ducks and Other Waterfowl

Ducks love the water and need it for good health and grooming. Providing a kiddie pool for swimming can be great entertainment for the ducks. Ducks will swim even in cold weather.

Deeper pools give ducks an opportunity to dive under the water but be sure to provide them with a ramp or other safe access in and out of the water.

Buckets and Other Water Sources

When a pool is not an option, buckets can be used so your ducks can fully submerge their head daily. This is not just enriching for the duck but also needed for good health and grooming. 

Foraging for food in water

Ducks enjoy foraging for food in water. Sprinkle berries, peas, insects, sprouts, or vegetable peels in a deep dish or pool. Waterfowl maintenance food, sold commercially, floats on the water and can be fed daily to ducks and other waterfowl as their regular diet.

Photo Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Exploring

If given the space, chickens and ducks can cover a lot of ground in a day, foraging for insects and plants along the way. While many ducks and chickens can live in small spaces, they should still have opportunities to explore and forage safely. If possible, allow for free-ranging times when you can monitor them or create a “chicken tractor” to allow the birds to safely move from one area to the next.

Clicker Training

Chickens and ducks can be clicker trained. Teach them to hop up on a platform, to target an object with their beak, or to come when called. 

Photo Courtesy of Breanna Norris, KPA-CTP

Roosting 

Chickens and Muscovy ducks will typically roost at night in the coop. This provides a safe and draft-free place to sleep. When given the option, many will also roost during the day in their run. 

Covered Outside Space

A covered run gives your birds space for enrichment opportunities year-round, regardless of the weather. Keep snuffle mats, dust baths, and other enrichment items dry and safe from bad weather. Greenhouse plastic on the roof and sides helps keep this space warm while hardware cloth keeps your birds safe from predators. 

Birds are natural problem solvers and enjoy interacting with enrichment activities. By providing enrichment and meeting their specific needs, backyard birds can be a wonderful addition to your family. You may be surprised by how much personality they have.

Teaching Go To Mat for Cats

Teaching your cat to go to a mat is an easy behavior that supports exercise, enrichment, and engagement for you and your cat. The goal of this exercise is to teach your cat to run to their mat when given a verbal cue such as “go to”.  Using “go to” gives your cat a correct choice that can be rewarded rather than sitting on books and laptops, running through open doors, or counter surfing. This behavior is invaluable for health and husbandry and a foundation for teaching your cat to voluntarily enter and exit the carrier. 

Training Supplies:

  • Clicker or verbal marker like “yes” (Kitties should be familiar with a clicker or verbal marker before beginning the exercise.)
  • Small, high-value treats
  • Small blanket, rug, or flat fleece mat, about 12” to 18” square

Pro Tips:

  •  Deliver the treat where the behavior should happen.
  •  Create short, exciting sessions of 10-15 repetitions.
  •  Alternate the difficulty of repetitions within each session to keep it interesting.

Step One: Get the Cat on the Mat

Stand or sit facing your cat, place the mat between your feet and your cat. Place a treat on the center of the mat, and mark using the clicker or “yes” to reinforce as your cat walks onto the mat. To keep the exercise fast-paced and exciting, toss a treat one to two feet off the mat, then place another treat on the mat, marking when your cat walks back onto the mat. Tossing treats off the mat is used to move the cat quickly off the mat for speedy, exciting repetitions. Practice this exercise until your cat runs to the mat with all four feet on the mat for at least eight out of 10 repetitions, then move to step two.

Step Two: Mix It Up

As your cat becomes more skilled, toss the treats away from the mat in different directions and distances. Continue to mark and treat when all four feet are on the mat. This shows the mat behavior is understood, not simply walking toward the owner to access treats. When the cat understands moving back and forth on and off the mat in all directions and successfully performs four out of five repetitions reliably, go to step three.

Step Three: Put It On Cue

When your cat crosses the edge of the mat, add a cue like “place” or “mat” in a happy tone of voice. This pairs the cue with standing on the mat and a food treat. Several sessions of pairing the cue will ensure your cat understands that cue equals “go to mat” and “have a treat”. Always use a happy voice; happy cues equal happy cats.

Step Four: Use the Cue to Solicit the Behavior

Begin by placing the mat on the floor when the cat is very close by and give the cue. Mark and treat for going to the mat. Practice at easy distances, gradually working up to greater distances or added distractions, but not both at the same time. If your cat ignores the cue, make it easier, and if that doesn’t help within five repetitions, repeat step three.

Step Five: Generalize Mat Behavior

Practice placing the mat on the floor, and when your cat runs to the mat, mark and treat. Practice in numerous places around the house, including places of differing heights. Always choose a secure landing spot.  

“Go to” can be taught for any place you would like to send your cat. Using the steps above, identify each place with a unique name such as “go to” mat, carrier, or cat tree.

How Do I Prepare My Kitten for Veterinary Visits?

Q: How do I prepare my kitten for veterinary visits?

A: A little bit of preparation will reduce stress for both you and your cat when visiting the veterinarian. Cats usually don’t go for frequent car rides, so any trip outside the home may result in increased levels of fear, anxiety, and stress before you even factor in taking your cat to a veterinarian.

Early Socialization

For a cat to be friendly and well-adjusted, early interactions with humans and other animals are important, but genetics often play a significant role in your cat’s behavior. Socialization classes, sometimes called “kitty kindergarten,” offer an opportunity to expose your kitten to handling, carrier training, grooming, and appropriate play with other kittens. Socialization classes can provide a chance to learn about basic cat care, litterbox basics, the importance of enrichment, harness training, and positive reinforcement training.

Handling Exercises

Helping kittens and cats to feel comfortable when picked up or being held, examined, groomed, and during nail trims, reduces anxiety about these procedures in the future. All handling should be done with the addition of food. Things like lickable mats and snuffle mats can free your hands during these interactions.

Carrier Training

If your cat isn’t familiar with a carrier or the carrier is only used to travel to the veterinary office, they are less likely to associate the carrier with something fun or good. Carrier training is one way to make sure your cat enjoys the carrier. Trips are easier and less stressful if your cat is eager to enter the carrier when you bring it out.

A veterinary hospital does not have to can be a scary place for your cat. Bring your lickable mats, favorite toys, and treats with you. Adequate socialization, early handling, and carrier training from a young age will help trips to the veterinary hospital be more predictable and maybe even fun.

Behavioral Euthanasia and Quality of Life Decisions

Photo Courtesy Phyllis DeGioia, Veterinary Partner Editor

Deciding to euthanize your pet who is sick, debilitated, or injured is difficult and heartbreaking. Sometimes the decision is a logical one if your pet is severely injured or has been diagnosed with an untreatable disease and is clearly suffering. In these cases, the quality of life is poor and will not improve with time, medical care, or love. 

When the issue in question is behavioral, such as after injuring a family member, another pet, or a stranger, the decision for euthanasia may not be clear. Your pet may panic because of noises, people, other animals, or being left home alone. Perhaps they engage in abnormal repetitive behaviors and cannot stop. It can be hard to determine if your pet is suffering because the behavior has not improved.

In human medicine, these types of disorders are referred to as psychological or mental health disorders. There has been a history of discounting psychological disorders, but medical professionals now know that these are diseases, like cancer or diabetes. Sometimes the pet has a true emotional disorder that is not man-made through mistreatment or lack of training. These concerns cannot be solved “with love”, through “putting the animal in its place”, or by taking obedience lessons.

Psychological or behavioral diseases are diseases of the brain, just as cancer is a disease of the cell. Some cancers respond to treatment, some will not. Some will appear to respond initially, then relapse. Cancer which resolves quickly in one individual may be terminal in another. Some cancers generally considered treatable are fatal for others. Some patients may not be able to tolerate the treatment that is designed to save their life. Although veterinary behavioral medicine has progressed so many behavior disorders can be managed and treated, there will be variable responses among animals. 

If you are considering euthanasia for behavioral reasons, there may be alternative options to consider first.

Have You Taken Your Pet to the Veterinarian?

Many behavioral problems have underlying medical conditions that contribute to behavior. Conditions such as ear infections, dental disease, arthritis, and even skin allergies can cause pain and irritability, increasing your pet’s anxiety levels, or resulting in a bite when stressed. Scheduling a check-up with your veterinarian should be first on your list with any noted behavioral change, especially if this change is recent or your pet is older.

Have You Sought Out Professional Help? 

A board-certified veterinary behaviorist is a licensed veterinarian with advanced training in animal behavior for all types of behaviors. Applied Animal Behaviorists also have advanced academic training although these professionals do not need to be licensed veterinarians. Medications may be helpful in treating your pet’s aggression or anxiety problems, but only a licensed veterinarian can prescribe medications for your pet.

A qualified dog trainer can help you implement a management, training, and behavior modification plan often prescribed by your veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist. Unfortunately, experience levels, education, and training methods are not standardized among dog training professionals; therefore, it is important for you to do your homework before hiring a trainer. Understanding that some training methods can do more harm than good is important.

Have You Considered Rehoming? 

This may not be the solution for all pets, but some behavior problems can be managed well in a different environment. Fighting dogs and cats may do better when separated and away from the common stressors in their life. The same for dogs with a bite history towards kids. Sometimes a home without kids is just what your pet needs to feel safe. Not all pets benefit from, nor should be, rehomed.  In general, finding a new and safe home for your pet can be difficult. Animals with behavior problems are often at greater risk for abuse and neglect in new environments because, in these situations, they may not have as close of a relationship with the new owners as they did with you.

What Are Some Criteria To Consider When Making the Decision To Euthanize Your Pet?

If there are young children or elderly relatives in the home, they are often at a higher risk for injuries related to bites and scratches. Also, behavior modification can be difficult or impossible for some depending on the living situation and commitment made to the pet. Liability is always a concern along with safety for you, your family, and other pets in the home.

Rehoming is not an option. Some animals are not safe in any home. Most shelters will not adopt out animals with a bite history or a history of aggression towards other animals. Cats that eliminate outside the litterbox can also be harder to place. Transparency in shelter adoptions is important from both a legal and ethical standpoint.

Emotional well-being and mental suffering may not be as visible to us as physical pain and disease but can significantly affect your pet’s quality of life and, therefore, yours. When making euthanasia decisions, it is important to consider your pet’s overall emotional state and well-being.  

Remember, behavioral euthanasia is a hard decision, so have all the information before making that phone call. There is never a wrong answer but if you make this decision, it is important to know you are not alone and will always be supported.

Working with your veterinarian to explore medical options, you may decide that euthanasia is the best choice for your pet, your family, or the public. Regardless of the psychological cause, euthanasia may be a valid treatment plan and may be the only option. Behavioral euthanasia is hard for both the family and the veterinary team. Mutual respect and open communication without preconceived opinions or biases are important for everyone involved.