What is “Littermate Syndrome”?

June 20, 2023 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Trainer

By Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPA-CTP

What is “Littermate Syndrome”?

Also known as littermate dependency, this term refers to behaviors that develop when two puppies from the same litter are raised together. Behaviors include attachment to each other, difficulty bonding with humans and other animals, aggression, separation anxiety, and reduced independence in training. This pattern is believed to occur with any pair of puppies or dogs that are raised together at the same time, whether they are siblings or not.

The concept of littermate syndrome is a topic of discussion among dog trainers, shelter personnel, breeders, and other animal professionals. However, this syndrome is not recognized by veterinary behaviorists or other leading experts in the field. Instead, the behaviors associated with this “syndrome” are more likely related to the challenges of raising two puppies together.

If this “syndrome” isn’t real, why do these behaviors occur?

In general, raising one puppy can be time-consuming. Teaching social skills, housetraining, socialization, management, and training is challenging enough with just one puppy – imagine doing all of this with two. When working with two puppies, it is difficult to ensure that each puppy has their own unique experiences independent of the other.

Socialization

During the socialization period, puppies learn about new things in their environment, the human world, other animals, and so much more. The quality of each new experience is important. Each puppy needs to feel safe and is given ample time to explore and make associations at their own pace in a positive yet controlled manner. 

Housetraining

Housetraining is an essential aspect of raising a puppy. It involves teaching puppies to eliminate in designated areas and develop good bathroom habits. With direct supervision, positive reinforcement, frequent opportunities to eliminate, an established routine, and a little patience, most puppies catch on quickly, but not all. Each puppy will be different, and therefore two puppies going through the housetraining process at the same time may be frustrating for all.

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPA-CTP

Redirecting Less Desirable Behaviors

Puppies will chew, nip, jump, and demonstrate other nuisance behaviors. Redirection is often key, and “puppy proofing” is essential. Enrichment in the form of food-stuffed puzzle toys, adequate exercise, rest periods, and positive reinforcement training can reduce all of these behaviors and help puppies make better choices. Capturing desired behavior helps to build healthy bonds with humans and gives the puppy opportunities to reinforce the behaviors you want to see from your dog. Attempting this with two puppies can lead to missed opportunities or accidental reinforcement of undesirable behaviors. 

Training

Training is an important form of learning for both the human and the puppy. This process gives an opportunity for mental enrichment and to teach basic social skills. Behaviors such as “touch”,  “come” when called, and how to “settle on a mat” are all important skills for all puppies to learn. Leash manners and learning how to like car rides are equally important. When accomplishing these tasks, working with two puppies will be twice the challenge.

Is there ever a time when two puppies may be better than one?

Yes. Some puppies raised together may form healthy bonds and develop well-adjusted behaviors. If you do choose to raise two puppies together, provide each puppy with separate training, socialization opportunities, and individual attention to promote their overall well-being and balanced growth.

When it comes to littermate syndrome, it is not so much about a lack of bonding with the family or behavioral problems developing when puppies are siblings. It is more about the challenges that come from raising two dogs together simultaneously.

Beyond the Food Bowl

June 12, 2023 • Ask LSH Dogs I am a... Shelter Worker Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

Brown and white dog with blue toy

Food-filled puzzle toys are fun!

Raising behaviorally healthy dogs requires meeting both their mental and physical needs. When feeding a dog from bowls, many dog owners miss opportunities to meet these critical needs. Dogs are hardwired to scavenge, hunt, sniff, and dig for their food, and if not given the opportunity to do so, the results can be problematic. Behavioral issues such as counter-surfing, digging, excessive barking, and destructive behaviors can quickly arise. Here are five time-saving ways you can make sure your dog’s basic needs are met.  

1. Puzzle Feeders: These types of toys require mental energy and physical output for your dogs. Start out easy to avoid frustration and encourage your dog to experiment with different types. Initially, reinforce your dog for any interest in the feeder, even if that means that treats need to “magically appear from the sky”. Purchased and DIY options exist, including the muffin tin hunt (kibble is placed in each muffin spot and covered by toys of different shapes and sizes), balls, and wobblers that dispense food when moved.  Other types of feeders include actual puzzles to solve to gain access to food and remote treat dispensers requiring your dog to push buttons to access the food inside.  

Brown and white dog with muffin tin filled with toys

Muffin tins allow your dog to choose which toy looks the most fun

2. Snuffling Games: Meeting your dog’s basic needs, these games give opportunities for your dog to scavenge, sniff, and their environment, lowering overexcitement and heart rates naturally. ​Many snuffling options are available such as hiding kibble in a rolled-up towel, in a basket with other items, or scattered in the yard for dogs to find. Snuffle mats can be purchased or crafted to hide or sniff out treats and are easy to transport. 

3. Food-Stuffed Toys: Different than puzzle toys, food-stuffed toys often require more chewing and licking to get out the food. Because they are a little more challenging, dogs often need to spend more time removing the food, keeping them occupied and calmer. Make sure the access to food is easy at first so your dog does not get frustrated or give up too quickly. Over time, you can make the puzzle harder. Many commercial brands of these types of toys are available, or you can create your own. Food or treats frozen with water in plastic containers or ice cube trays are inexpensive ways to engage your dog. Great for use outdoors or in a safe haven, these treats can easily be popped out of the tray and given to your dog to satisfy chewing needs.

Black and white dog with red ball

A food-filled ball

4. Hand Delivery: Hand-delivering food is a great way to reinforce desired behaviors in your dog and bond at the same time. Games like capturing desirable behaviors and kibble toss are both great ways to provide mental and physical exercise. For the kibble toss, wait for your dog to approach, mark the behavior. Toss a piece of kibble for your dog to chase after and eat. Repeat. You can change up the game and practice throwing the kibble in alternating directions once your dog learns the game. An alternative version would be to teach your dog how to “catch” food in their mouth. This often requires good aim and plenty of practice for both you and your dog. 

5. Food Hunt: A food hunt, or a variation of hide and seek, requires your dog to use their nose to seek out treats. For this game, small piles of kibble or treats are hidden around the house for your dog to find. Start off easy with obvious hiding spots, but then increase the difficulty by using boxes, furniture, and other natural obstacles to place the food into. This is a great game to play outside as well. For dogs who like to climb, try the sausage tree game (created by Simone Mueller), where smelly treats are hidden partially up a tree, and they are then verbally encouraged to search for it. Rock walls also make great hiding spots when playing this game.

During these exercises and activities, it is important to always supervise your dog, not only for safety reasons but also to keep your dog engaged with you. Always start off easy to minimize frustration, and remember to have fun!

Brown and white dog with forelegs on tree trunk

The sausage tree game lets your dog hunt for treats

What is a Catio?

May 25, 2023 • Ask LSH Cats I am a... Pet Owner Veterinary Professional

By Alison Gottlieb, BS, CVT, VTS(ECC)

Cat resting safely inside the catio. Photo Courtesy Alison Gottlieb BS, CVT, VTS(ECC)

Q: What is a catio?

A:  The outside world is not the safest place for an indoor cat, despite what they tell you. Most veterinarians recommend keeping cats indoors for their protection. The outdoor dangers are plentiful: cars, predators, fights with other cats and wild animals, and various diseases they may encounter. The neighbor’s garden may look like a giant litter box to a cat, but that neighbor may disagree. Local wildlife may fall victim to feline hunting as well.

Although cats may be better off observing from the window to keep peace and safety in your neighborhood, some may prefer to explore the great outdoors. They may run out the door, push out screens in windows, and generally make it known they prefer to be out in the sun. Their minds and bodies enjoy the mental and physical stimulation of being outside. A great solution to keep them safe yet let them enjoy the outdoor reinforcement is to create a catio.

A catio is an enclosed area outside that allows a cat to enjoy nature safely. Often located on a patio or deck, cats can access them from a window or sliding door. There are many options for the home architecture and budget. They can be purchased as online kits, installed by a professional, or created from scratch. Simply enclosing a patio or balcony to keep the cat contained can often be the easiest route to let them outside safely. Perches can be installed to improve vantage points, and cat-friendly plants such as wheatgrass and catnip can be grown in accessible containers.

Cats should always have access to fresh water, shade, and the ability to get in from the elements. Consider providing a litterbox in the enclosure so they can eliminate if needed. This should be brought inside and cleaned daily. If giving food or treats in the catio, remove any leftovers to minimize mice, flies, and other pests. Speak with your veterinarian about parasite preventatives and vaccines if cats now have outdoor access.

Four cats in “catio” attached to outside window.

  

2 cats, one inside, one outside catio

  

   

   

    

    

    

    

Compulsive and Repetitive Behavior in Dogs

May 24, 2023 • CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Shelter Worker Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Anneliese Heinrich, MSc, DVM

Border Collie jumps and snaps at shadows on the ceiling. Photo courtesy of Anneliese Heinrich MSc, DVM

Compulsive and repetitive behaviors are a variation of normal behaviors such as eating, walking or self-grooming. The behaviors may appear out of context in a repetitive, exaggerated, or ritualistic way. These are commonly observed in species of animals housed in zoos but can occur in horses, farm animals, dogs, cats, and small mammals as well.

Common compulsive and repetitive behaviors may include:

  •  movement: spinning, tail–chasing, pacing, freezing, jumping in place, skin rippling;
  •  oral behaviors: self-licking, self-chewing, air or nose licking, flank sucking, wool sucking, fly snapping, polyphagia (eating more), polydipsia (drinking more), psychogenic alopecia (pulling out hair), pica (eating non-nutritional   items) chewing and licking objects;
  •  vocalization: repetitive barking, whining, howling;
  •  hallucinatory: shadow or light chasing, startling, avoidance, fly snapping, air licking;
  •  aggressive: self-directed aggression (growling, biting at tail), aggressive behavior directed towards an object.

Dogs and cats of any age, breed, or sex can develop a compulsive or repetitive behavior disorder. The average age of onset is 12-36 months in dogs and 24-48 months in cats. Approximately 50% of animals with compulsive and repetitive behaviors start to show signs before one year of age.

Some breeds are more likely to show these behaviors.

  •  Bull Terriers: spinning, tail chasing, freezing
  •  German Shepherds: spinning and tail chasing
  •  Great Danes and German Short-Haired Pointers: self-mutilation, stereotypical motor behaviors such as fence running, hallucinations
  •  Dalmatians, Rottweilers, and German Shepherds: hallucinations
  •  Doberman Pinschers: flank sucking
  •  Border Collies: staring at shadows
  •  Australian Cattle Dogs: tail chasing
  •  Miniature Schnauzers: checking the hind end

There are other risk factors for compulsive behaviors. Living in stressful environments may cause anxiety, conflict, or frustration, predisposing the animal to compulsive behaviors. A previous injury or irritation may trigger the behaviors. In some situations, the behavior might have been accidentally reinforced, resulting in attention-seeking behaviors.

As with all behavior concerns, the first step is to rule out underlying medical conditions. Some common medical diseases that may result in compulsive behaviors include:

  •  seizures;
  •  neurological diseases; 
  •  infectious diseases such as Lyme disease or distemper;
  •  gastrointestinal disorders;
  •  ophthalmological disease;
  •  metabolic diseases;
  •  exposure to a toxic substance;
  •  skin diseases;
  •  injuries.

When diagnosing compulsive and repetitive conditions, the first step is a complete physical and neurological examination. Routine blood work and urinalysis can help to determine your pet’s overall health and function of internal organs along with any other diagnostics that your veterinarian may feel is necessary. Video recordings of your pet when you are not there to observe their behavior can help differentiate attention-seeking from compulsive behaviors.

Treating compulsive behaviors is a multi-step process.

  1. Manage specific triggers: Treatment starts by avoiding specific triggers for the behavior whenever possible. Turn off the lights or close the blinds to reduce the creation of shadows. Avoid punishment or physically stopping your pet from performing the behavior. Both cause conflict and may result in an increase in anxiety or aggression directed at you.  

  2. Manage anxiety: Anxiety often contributes to compulsive behaviors, so it is important to treat the anxiety in addition to the compulsive behavior.

  3. Avoid reinforcing the behavior and provide distractions instead. Food dispensing and puzzle toys can be great ways to distract your pet to reduce the compulsive behavior.

  4. Use positive reinforcement to teach and reinforce alternate behaviors such as coming when called, going to a mat, nose targeting, eye contact, and a chin rest. 

  5. Make sure your dog’s basic needs are being met with physical activity and mental enrichment to reduce the opportunity for compulsive behaviors to occur. 

  6. Medications may be needed for the treatment of compulsive behaviors.

Compulsive and repetitive behaviors may require lifelong treatment for your dog. Relapses can occur if they become stressed or experience conflict or frustration. If you have not seen improvement in two to three months or the behavior worsens, your dog should be reevaluated by your veterinarian. Compulsive behaviors are often managed for life, not cured.

Tackling The Vacuum Villain

May 16, 2023 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Student Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

Photo Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

Many dogs leave the room as soon as the “vacuum villain” shows up. They may tremble in fear, slink off to the couch to hide, or even bite or bark at the vacuum to make it go away.

Why do dogs fear the vacuum?

  •   Fear of the unknown: “What IS that scary monster?”
  •   Sensitivity to noise: “Ouch, that hurts my ears!”
  •   A past traumatic event: “That monster tried to bite me once!”
  •   Unpredictability: “That monster moves all over the place, and I can’t escape!”

It is possible to help your dog work through their big feelings about the vacuum by first recognizing how they really feel and then using behavior modification to change those feelings from bad to good or neutral.

How to Help:

Step 1: Provide a safe haven. This is somewhere your dog can go, be comfortable, hide, and not worry about the vacuum. Be sure your dog is already used to this safe space and associates it with good things. Before you vacuum, encourage your dog to retreat to this area and provide them with something enjoyable like a licking mat or a food dispensing toy to pass the time while you vacuum.

dog watching vacuum stick

Photo Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

  

If your dog refuses food while alone in their safe haven, ask someone else to vacuum while you spend time with your dog as they eat. Make sure your dog’s safe haven is far enough away from the vacuum so that your dog can relax.

Step 2: Behavior Modification. Start getting your dog used to the sights and sounds of the vacuum at a distance or volume where they show no fear. One strategy is to scatter food around the vacuum while it is in the off position. Allow your dog an opportunity to explore the vacuum at their own pace without you touching or moving it. Make sure to give them space and an opportunity to explore the vacuum and eat the treats without prompting.

When your dog becomes comfortable enough to eat and explore around the unplugged and stationary vacuum, it is time to slowly progress towards turning the vacuum on and eventually moving it. You may need to start with the vacuum on, without movement, transitioning to movement over time.  

Always start at a distance comfortable for your dog and continue to use food tossed around the vacuum. The presence of the trigger (vacuum) should always predict good things (treats).  

If the noise and movement of the vacuum become too stressful for your dog at any distance, instead start with a recorded sound of the vacuum during the initial behavior modification sessions. When the recording is on, offer treats to your dog, and when you turn the recording off, the treats should go away.

Step 3: Teach your dog a new behavior, such as going to a mat. This behavior can be used to indicate your dog’s comfort level and readiness for the vacuum to start. If your dog stays calm and chooses to stay on the mat or couch, continue to vacuum. If at any time they become nervous or leave, then it is time to turn off the vacuum and give them a break. 

dog on bed looking at vacuum stick

Photo Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

  

You may need to start vacuuming further away from your dog, but always monitor their body language to make sure they feel safe as the vacuum moves closer.

Go slowly and reward your dog to keep them calm along the way. Make sure to move at your dog’s pace, stop if they get nervous, and always allow them an opportunity to leave the room. You can give the task of vacuuming to someone else while you take your dog for a walk.

What is a Safe Haven for Your Dog?

May 11, 2023 • Ask LSH Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Trainer

By Sandra Robbins BS, CVT, VTS (Anesthesia & Analgesia), CPDT-KSA, KPA-CTP

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

A safe haven or space is a carefully designated, comfortable, climate-controlled area within your home where your dog can retreat when needed. Some examples of safe spaces include:

  •   walk-in closet;
  •   finished basement;
  •   covered crate;
  •   bedroom
  •   bathroom;
  •   sectioned off space (exercise pen or gated area).

When is a Safe Space Beneficial?

Noisy stressful situations

  •   storms;
  •   fireworks;
  •   parties;
  •   children or other dogs causing commotion;
  •   workers in the house;
  •   trick or treaters.

To contain your dog:

  •   during your departures;
  •   separate from other animals in the house.

As an escape:

  • to avoid situations when they are being harassed by humans or other pets.

What About Children?

Teaching children to leave your dog alone when in the safe space creates healthy boundaries for children and your dog. It gives your dog an option for escape.

How Do I Teach My Dog to Go to a Safe Space?

Most dogs need to become accustomed to being left in a space by themselves. This can be accomplished by pairing good things with the safe space. Practice sending your dog there every day. When first encouraging your dog to spend time in their safe space, monitor your dog for signs of stress. Change your approach if your dog seems uncomfortable. Some dogs choose to go to their safe space on their own, so this space needs to be available to your dog at all times.

What Else Is Important for the Safe Space?

For noise sensitive dogs, use a sound machine or soothing music. Low or soft lighting can be less stimulating for some. Some dogs are overstimulated or anxious due to outside events such as fireworks or storms. For these dogs, if windows cannot be covered, a dark room such as a closet or bathroom may provide the safety that your dog seeks.

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