Compulsive and Repetitive Behavior in Dogs

Border Collie jumps and snaps at shadows on the ceiling. Photo courtesy of Anneliese Heinrich MSc, DVM

Compulsive and repetitive behaviors are a variation of normal behaviors such as eating, walking or self-grooming. The behaviors may appear out of context in a repetitive, exaggerated, or ritualistic way. These are commonly observed in species of animals housed in zoos but can occur in horses, farm animals, dogs, cats, and small mammals as well.

Common compulsive and repetitive behaviors may include:

  •  movement: spinning, tailchasing, pacing, freezing, jumping in place, skin rippling;
  •  oral behaviors: self-licking, self-chewing, air or nose licking, flank sucking, wool sucking, fly snapping, polyphagia (eating more), polydipsia (drinking more), psychogenic alopecia (pulling out hair), pica (eating non-nutritional   items) chewing and licking objects;
  •  vocalization: repetitive barking, whining, howling;
  •  hallucinatory: shadow or light chasing, startling, avoidance, fly snapping, air licking;
  •  aggressive: self-directed aggression (growling, biting at tail), aggressive behavior directed towards an object.

Dogs and cats of any age, breed, or sex can develop a compulsive or repetitive behavior disorder. The average age of onset is 12-36 months in dogs and 24-48 months in cats. Approximately 50% of animals with compulsive and repetitive behaviors start to show signs before one year of age.

Some breeds are more likely to show these behaviors.

  •  Bull Terriers: spinning, tail chasing, freezing
  •  German Shepherds: spinning and tail chasing
  •  Great Danes and German Short-Haired Pointers: self-mutilation, stereotypical motor behaviors such as fence running, hallucinations
  •  Dalmatians, Rottweilers, and German Shepherds: hallucinations
  •  Doberman Pinschers: flank sucking
  •  Border Collies: staring at shadows
  •  Australian Cattle Dogs: tail chasing
  •  Miniature Schnauzers: checking the hind end

There are other risk factors for compulsive behaviors. Living in stressful environments may cause anxiety, conflict, or frustration, predisposing the animal to compulsive behaviors. A previous injury or irritation may trigger the behaviors. In some situations, the behavior might have been accidentally reinforced, resulting in attention-seeking behaviors.

As with all behavior concerns, the first step is to rule out underlying medical conditions. Some common medical diseases that may result in compulsive behaviors include:

  •  seizures;
  •  neurological diseases; 
  •  infectious diseases such as Lyme disease or distemper;
  •  gastrointestinal disorders;
  •  ophthalmological disease;
  •  metabolic diseases;
  •  exposure to a toxic substance;
  •  skin diseases;
  •  injuries.

When diagnosing compulsive and repetitive conditions, the first step is a complete physical and neurological examination. Routine blood work and urinalysis can help to determine your pet’s overall health and function of internal organs along with any other diagnostics that your veterinarian may feel is necessary. Video recordings of your pet when you are not there to observe their behavior can help differentiate attention-seeking from compulsive behaviors.

Treating compulsive behaviors is a multi-step process.

  1. Manage specific triggers: Treatment starts by avoiding specific triggers for the behavior whenever possible. Turn off the lights or close the blinds to reduce the creation of shadows. Avoid punishment or physically stopping your pet from performing the behavior. Both cause conflict and may result in an increase in anxiety or aggression directed at you.  

  2. Manage anxiety: Anxiety often contributes to compulsive behaviors, so it is important to treat the anxiety in addition to the compulsive behavior.

  3. Avoid reinforcing the behavior and provide distractions instead. Food dispensing and puzzle toys can be great ways to distract your pet to reduce the compulsive behavior.

  4. Use positive reinforcement to teach and reinforce alternate behaviors such as coming when called, going to a mat, nose targeting, eye contact, and a chin rest. 

  5. Make sure your dog’s basic needs are being met with physical activity and mental enrichment to reduce the opportunity for compulsive behaviors to occur. 

  6. Medications may be needed for the treatment of compulsive behaviors.

Compulsive and repetitive behaviors may require lifelong treatment for your dog. Relapses can occur if they become stressed or experience conflict or frustration. If you have not seen improvement in two to three months or the behavior worsens, your dog should be reevaluated by your veterinarian. Compulsive behaviors are often managed for life, not cured.

Tackling The Vacuum Villain

Photo Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

Many dogs leave the room as soon as the “vacuum villain” shows up. They may tremble in fear, slink off to the couch to hide, or even bite or bark at the vacuum to make it go away.

Why do dogs fear the vacuum?

  •   Fear of the unknown: “What IS that scary monster?”
  •   Sensitivity to noise: “Ouch, that hurts my ears!”
  •   A past traumatic event: “That monster tried to bite me once!”
  •   Unpredictability: “That monster moves all over the place, and I can’t escape!”

It is possible to help your dog work through their big feelings about the vacuum by first recognizing how they really feel and then using behavior modification to change those feelings from bad to good or neutral.

How to Help:

Step 1: Provide a safe haven. This is somewhere your dog can go, be comfortable, hide, and not worry about the vacuum. Be sure your dog is already used to this safe space and associates it with good things. Before you vacuum, encourage your dog to retreat to this area and provide them with something enjoyable like a licking mat or a food dispensing toy to pass the time while you vacuum.

dog watching vacuum stick

Photo Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

  

If your dog refuses food while alone in their safe haven, ask someone else to vacuum while you spend time with your dog as they eat. Make sure your dog’s safe haven is far enough away from the vacuum so that your dog can relax.

Step 2: Behavior Modification. Start getting your dog used to the sights and sounds of the vacuum at a distance or volume where they show no fear. One strategy is to scatter food around the vacuum while it is in the off position. Allow your dog an opportunity to explore the vacuum at their own pace without you touching or moving it. Make sure to give them space and an opportunity to explore the vacuum and eat the treats without prompting.

When your dog becomes comfortable enough to eat and explore around the unplugged and stationary vacuum, it is time to slowly progress towards turning the vacuum on and eventually moving it. You may need to start with the vacuum on, without movement, transitioning to movement over time.  

Always start at a distance comfortable for your dog and continue to use food tossed around the vacuum. The presence of the trigger (vacuum) should always predict good things (treats).  

If the noise and movement of the vacuum become too stressful for your dog at any distance, instead start with a recorded sound of the vacuum during the initial behavior modification sessions. When the recording is on, offer treats to your dog, and when you turn the recording off, the treats should go away.

Step 3: Teach your dog a new behavior, such as going to a mat. This behavior can be used to indicate your dog’s comfort level and readiness for the vacuum to start. If your dog stays calm and chooses to stay on the mat or couch, continue to vacuum. If at any time they become nervous or leave, then it is time to turn off the vacuum and give them a break. 

dog on bed looking at vacuum stick

Photo Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

  

You may need to start vacuuming further away from your dog, but always monitor their body language to make sure they feel safe as the vacuum moves closer.

Go slowly and reward your dog to keep them calm along the way. Make sure to move at your dog’s pace, stop if they get nervous, and always allow them an opportunity to leave the room. You can give the task of vacuuming to someone else while you take your dog for a walk.

What is a Safe Haven for Your Dog?

Photo Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

A safe haven or space is a carefully designated, comfortable, climate-controlled area within your home where your dog can retreat when needed. Some examples of safe spaces include:

  •   walk-in closet;
  •   finished basement;
  •   covered crate;
  •   bedroom
  •   bathroom;
  •   sectioned off space (exercise pen or gated area).

When is a Safe Space Beneficial?

Noisy stressful situations

  •   storms;
  •   fireworks;
  •   parties;
  •   children or other dogs causing commotion;
  •   workers in the house;
  •   trick or treaters.

To contain your dog:

  •   during your departures;
  •   separate from other animals in the house.

As an escape:

  • to avoid situations when they are being harassed by humans or other pets.

What About Children?

Teaching children to leave your dog alone when in the safe space creates healthy boundaries for children and your dog. It gives your dog an option for escape.

How Do I Teach My Dog to Go to a Safe Space?

Most dogs need to become accustomed to being left in a space by themselves. This can be accomplished by pairing good things with the safe space. Practice sending your dog there every day. When first encouraging your dog to spend time in their safe space, monitor your dog for signs of stress. Change your approach if your dog seems uncomfortable. Some dogs choose to go to their safe space on their own, so this space needs to be available to your dog at all times.

What Else Is Important for the Safe Space?

For noise sensitive dogs, use a sound machine or soothing music. Low or soft lighting can be less stimulating for some. Some dogs are overstimulated or anxious due to outside events such as fireworks or storms. For these dogs, if windows cannot be covered, a dark room such as a closet or bathroom may provide the safety that your dog seeks.

Hyperesthesia Syndrome in Cats

Tuxedo cat showing signs of Hyperesthesia Syndrome

This cat is showing signs of Hyperesthesia Syndrome

Feline hyperesthesia syndrome (FHS) is known by several names including “rolling skin disease”, “neurodermatitis”, neuritis, psychomotor epilepsy, and pruritic dermatitis. Hyperesthesia means “too much feeling.” It can be difficult to determine whether the cause is behavioral or medical without additional diagnostics, such as an MRI or EEG.

Clinical signs of feline hyperesthesia syndrome (FSH) can range from mild to self-mutilating. Common behaviors seen include:

  • rippling or rolling of skin and muscles over the back, ears, head, or tail;
  • excessive staring at their tail, then attacking their tail or sides;
  • biting at the base of their tail, front legs, and paws;
  • running around while meowing in a distressed manner;
  • aggression towards people or other cats. Some cats may show an increase in affectionate behavior;
  • big, dark, round (dilated) pupils.

To diagnose FHS, other conditions related to the skin and nervous system must be ruled out first. These include:

  • dermatologic causes: flea, food, environmental, or seasonal allergies; skin infections or parasites, auto-immune diseases, anal sac disease;
  • neurological conditions such as seizures or neuromas (painful nerve bundle) which may form in cats after declaws or tail injuries;
  • pain: frostbite and orthopedic conditions such as arthritis, injury to the tail, hips, or back;
  • compulsive disorders: may be a primary behavior problem starting from one of the above conditions, then worsening over time;
  • toxins: Pyrethrin/pyrethroid, Organophosphate/carbamate toxicosis;
  • gastrointestinal diseases that are accompanied by changes to appetite, vomiting or diarrhea, flatulence or constipation;
  • urinary conditions, particularly in male cats with a urinary blockage.

To rule out underlying medical causes, expect your veterinarian to do a full physical, orthopedic, and neurological exam to determine the cause. Diagnostics may include radiographs, blood work or urinalysis, skin swabs or skin scrapes.

Treatment for FHS depends on the cause. Your veterinarian may recommend medications, supplements, weight loss or rehabilitation. Treatment of skin conditions may require antibiotics, medications for itch and inflammation or diet change.

If a physical cause cannot be found, antidepressant and anti-anxiety medications may be prescribed.

In addition to medications, there are some treatments that apply to all cats with clinical signs of FHS such as:

  • avoid known situations that cause the behavior in your cat, such as petting;
  • avoid punishing the behavior verbally or physically. This causes conflict and is not likely to stop the behavior;
  • provide a calm, predictable environment for your cat;
  • provide different types of enrichment; 

Dr. Sophia Yin’s Philosophies on Early Learning Theories

Dr. Sophia Yin and yellow cat

Image Courtesy of the Dr. Sophia Yin Collection

Dr. Sophia Yin, DVM, CAAB, MS was a veterinarian, animal behaviorist, author, and the creator of Low Stress Handling®.  

Through  scientific methods, rigorous research and testing, she created the techniques which are the foundations of Low Stress Handling® and are the origins for many modern animal behavior and training programs. To this day, her methodology has been used in schools and clinics all around the world and her teachings have shaped the new standard of care for veterinary professionals, pet professionals, shelter workers, and pet owners. Dr. Yin passed away in September of 2014, but through CattleDog Publishing and VIN, the Veterinary Information Network, her work and legacy lives on.

Dr. Yin knew from personal experience the hardship of having a reactive, anxious pet and no resources for professional help. She saw around her the many shattered relationships between misunderstood pets and their frustrated human companions. As a result, her mission became a desire to understand animals and their behavior so that the rest of us could care for, appreciate, and enjoy our time with them harmoniously.

Sophia learned that every pet needs a human who can lead, not like a boss but like a partner in a dance. A pet needs a teacher who gives clear signals, rewards desirable behaviors, removes rewards for inappropriate ones, and trains predictably and consistently. She realized that since animals do not understand the spoken word, they rely on reading body language to adjust their own behaviors. Humans then must be aware of their own movement and actions because every move influences the animal’s behavior and perception.

Her hands-on experience was as extensive as her education. Dr. Yin worked at San Francisco Veterinary Specialists, wrote for veterinary and popular magazines, and consulted for many zoos. In addition, she also lectured, taught workshops internationally on animal behavior and Low Stress Handling®, and was a behavior expert for shows such as Dogs 101 on Animal Planet. She served on the executive board for the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) Handling Guidelines Committee, and the American Humane Association (AHA) Animal Behavior and Training Advisory Committee. Dr. Yin was a respected author and creator of multiple educational resources that addressed animal care, handling, and training.

Why Sophia Chose the Behavior Field

Like most of her colleagues, she knew from a young age that she wanted to be a veterinarian. Sophia worked in kennels, veterinary hospitals, any animal experience she could. She majored in one of the most rigorous college science majors: biochemistry. In 1993, she achieved her dream and graduated from the University of California–Davis School of Veterinary Medicine. Dr. Yin then started in private practice as a veterinarian.

Over time, she noticed more patients had behavior concerns than medical ones. Because of previous experience with her own dog, she made it a priority to discuss potentially serious behavioral issues and to counsel those who wanted help. The problems were too involved to address during a regular office visit with the basic dog training skills she knew, so Sophia returned to school to learn more about behavior.

Image Courtesy of the Dr. Sophia Yin Collection

A Well-Rounded Approach

To specialize in behavior, veterinarians can follow a two- to three-year clinical residency conducting behavior consults and clinical research. Instead they may instead pursue a Master’s Degree or Ph.D. by completing courses and performing research to fulfill requirements set by the Animal Behavior Society, and gain clinical experience.

Sophia’s chosen path combined animal behavior experiences with a Master’s in Animal Science at UC Davis under Dr. Edward Price. During that time, she researched barking in dogs, passed her behavior courses, conducted numerous animal behavior projects, participated in lectures, and was a teaching assistant in biochemistry.

Traditional Force Training vs. Leadership Without Force 

In Dr. Sophia’s Own Words: 

“We’ve all heard the old school advice relating dog behavior to wolf social behavior: Show your dog you are the boss, the alpha. Twenty years ago when I started training, that was the advice I gave because it was all I knew. Like everyone else, the choke chain, pinch collar and a well-timed correction formed the cornerstone of dog training for me. I thought that dominance was the root of all behavior problems. Combined with a strong ability to read aggressive dogs, a lack of fear of being bitten, and fervor for trying to master the techniques of whomever I could, these methods and ideologies served me well. They were the methods of the traditional dog trainer, now sometimes called a balanced dog trainer if rewards are sometimes used.

Because I am always searching for ways to improve, as knowledge of dog and wolf behavior trickled down from the research and field scientists, my knowledge of animal behavior expanded and consequently my philosophies changed. 

In the past two decades, our understanding of dog behavior in relation to wolves, as well as our understanding of dominance and social hierarchies has advanced. Wolf biologists now rarely use the term alpha when referring to pack leaders in the wild. Careful observation has revealed that dominant wolves do not force subordinates onto their back (incorrectly termed an alpha roll). Rather  subordinates offer the posture as a sign of deference (more appropriate term, submissive roll). In addition, ethologists agree that studies on the process of domestication and on canine communication are making it more and more clear that a dog is not a wolf.”

Dominance is Not the Root of Bad Behavior

It is also now clear that dominance is generally not the cause of bad behavior and is evident once you know the definition of dominance. In animal behavior, dominance is defined as a relationship between individuals that is established by force, aggression and submission in order to gain priority access to resources. A dominance relationship is not established until one individual consistently submits. With this definition in mind, it is clear that most of the unruly behaviors we see in our pets are not due to a desire to gain higher rank. Consequently, dominance theory becomes irrelevant for most behavior problems in our pets.

Leadership Without Force

Studies on learning and behavior of the last 60+ years have shown us that animals (and humans) behave in undesirable ways because these behaviors have been reinforced. To change behavior, we have to remove the rewards for undesirable behavior and instead reward good behavior.

That simple approach, along with attention to timing, body language, and motivation, forms the basis for establishing a relationship of trust between the human and the pet. Training becomes a joy rather than a chore and the methods open up a whole new connection with your pet.

A Better Way of Training

The newer approach to training considers the animal’s motivations for learning, their comprehension, and the incremental steps for learning. The philosophy is simple and direct.

Keys to Modifying Behavior

Modification is surprisingly simple and easy at least for the pet. Animals do what is rewarding to them. We can change their behavior by no longer rewarding inappropriate ones and rewarding those which we deem appropriate. The challenge is human involvement because it requires observation and modifying our own habits when pets are around. As a result, we are always communicating so every interaction we have with the pet is a training session.

Learn to Lead – Like a Partner in a Dance

Once we approach behavior modification in this manner, we realize training is like a dance. When partners dance as a couple, one leads and the other follows. The leader decides which steps to perform and then guides his partner clearly so the partner can follow.

Training animals requires an understanding of the big dance and an ability to break the movements down into little steps. Little differences in movement can make big differences in behavior. We convey this to the animal through our body language and perfectly timed rewards. We set rules by rewarding good behaviors and removing rewards for inappropriate behavior. Good behavior will become a habit.

The Use of Punishment and an Animal’s Emotional State

Training also needs to address the underlying emotional state. If an animal is fearful, a leader who “dominates” will not change the emotions.

The use of force in training can cause animals to seem stubborn and willful when they are actually frustrated and confused. They will have little motivation to perform the commanded behaviors other than the desire to avoid fear and pain. Punishment does not take into consideration the motivation of the animal nor does it tell them what they should be doing. Instead, punishment just tells them what they should not be doing.

The purpose of force in most cases is to stop a behavior. Overall, force suppresses behavior only temporarily, especially when the animal is not rewarded for appropriate behaviors, nor does it address the underlying emotional state.

Humans fall back on punishment because it is easier to react in the moment to a problem than to think about how to prevent the problem instead. Instead, be proactive and remove the “punishment” crutch.

What Is Consent?

Photo of Willy Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

Q: My vet suggested I work on consent training with my dog for his insulin injections. What does that mean?

A: Consent is a hot buzzword in the animal behavior and training world. But what does consent really mean? Consent means your dog is giving permission before allowing something to happen to them. So, if dogs can’t talk, how do they give consent? They do this by offering consent behaviors voluntarily.

Consent training is your pet’s choice and can be used with any animal. This type of training creates a stronger relationship between you and your pet. When freely offered, these behaviors indicate your dog’s trust in you.

Pet owners can use this training for all types of handling:

  • grooming;
  • giving medications and injections;
  • medical procedures and exams;
  • nail trims;
  • physical therapy;
  • massage.

Communication is key with consent training. Your pet can be taught to demonstrate that they are willing participants in whatever comes next. If they do not offer a consent behavior, they are saying no, and this choice must be recognized and honored to keep that trust. If your dog repeatedly says no, then address what might be concerning them, such as a noisy environment or perhaps pain restricting their ability to get into position. It may be that they do not understand what you are asking.

Because dogs do not speak the same language as humans, their consent requires different communication skills than a person might give. You are capturing and shaping known behaviors which can be used as start buttons. When your dog performs the “start”, they are signaling their permission for you to continue with any procedure.

Petting is a common example of when consent should be requested. It is important never to invade a dog’s personal space and always ask them to come to you. If they do, and they are relaxed, you can try petting them along their shoulders and sides, then stop. If they look to you for more, nudge your hand, or lean against you, they are likely giving their permission for you to continue. 

You can also use behaviors for consent training that your dog already knows, such as sitting to put on their harness. It is important that your dog always has the option to walk away from these interactions if they need a break. Nose targeting to a cabinet full of grooming supplies could be a cue from your dog requesting brushing.

Your dog can also demonstrate consent with any new behaviors you teach, such as:

  • stationing to a mat platform;
  • offering a chin rest;
  • lying down on their side;
  • offering a paw.

Photo of Willy Courtesy Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

By using consent training, you are providing your dog opportunities to opt-in or out. If they do not perform the start button, give them a break, and evaluate why they may not want the procedure done. Start with simpler procedures and increase the reinforcement value.

By giving them this communication tool, you are giving them choices, minimizing stress, and removing force. They will be more trusting, happier, and likely have fewer behavior concerns.