How to Train Your Pet to Enjoy Their Treatment Station

The author giving a grey cat a treat for getting on a chair

Reward your pet for getting on the treatment station. Image Courtesy of Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Once you have selected your treatment station, it is time to start teaching your pet how to go there voluntarily. Before beginning, ensure your treatment station is ready, including treats, toys, and any items you may need for your pet’s care.  It is better to have the stage prepared and not surprise your pet.  Never breach your pet’s trust with unexpected items they may have had negative experiences with in the past.

Before you begin, you will need:

  • a variety of treats that your pet enjoys (lickable treats, food rewards, as well as frozen stuffed food items);
  • lick mats and snuffle mats;
  • a clicker, and
  • toys that do not cause too much excitement.

If your pet already knows how to station for other training, you are one step ahead of the game as your pet has some foundational skills. If not, it is a fun skill for all pets to learn.

The process is similar for dogs and cats. You want to keep in mind the height level you’d like your pet to be at in order to perform the necessary treatments. A small dog may need to be on an elevated station, and a cat may prefer elevation. A large dog may be out of reach if they are elevated. If the station is elevated, there should be options for your pet to safely get on and off so that they can opt out of treatment.

Black dog playing with a brightly colored snuffle mat

Provide a snuffle mat for your pet to enjoy on the station.Image Courtesy of Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

How to Teach Your Pet to Go to the Treatment Station

  • Toss a high value treat on the station. When your pet’s paw touches the station to get the treat, mark the contact with the clicker or verbal marker. Then, one treat at a time, drop five to six small treats on the station. As they finish the last treat, toss another treat on the floor and tell them to get it.
  • When they eat the treat, they will turn to look at you standing by the station. As they step toward you, drop another treat on the station and repeat the first step.

Once your pet is racing to get to the treatment station, you can then start working on keeping their arousal levels lower.

  • When they come to the treatment station, mark and reward them with a food treat as soon as they arrive, and then offer them a snuffle mat, lick mat, or frozen food toy to help them settle onto the station.
  • Some pets like to settle onto the station with a toy in their mouth.
  • If your pet enjoys massage and petting, you can offer this option while they are on their station (only if they already enjoy it). When they are done, toss a treat off the station and release them or tell them to get it. You then want to “close” the station down. This may be by removing it completely, covering it, or otherwise managing your pet’s access to it.

White dog in a bathtub enjoying a green lick mat

A lickable mat can be provided on a towel station placed in a tub for bathing.Image Courtesy of Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Some important notes:

  • Be careful not to turn the treatment station into an obedience exercise. If your pet opts to leave the station at any point, acknowledge their decision to say “no” by tossing a treat even further away and tell them to get it. Recognizing their “no” is just as important as their “yes”. 
  • Keep your treatment station sacred. Do not use it for other training sessions. The skills required for a treatment station are the same for other stationing behaviors but reserve the setup exclusively for care so your pet can predict what is happening.
  • The treatment station can be portable and moved to different situations, such as baths.  
  • Don’t try to trick your pet. If they already have strong negative associations with any of the equipment, desensitize your pet to it separately from training them to love their treatment station.

5 Steps to Successfully Housetrain Your Puppy or Adult Dog

Dr. Yin with black and grey puppy on green grass

Q: I have a new puppy. How do I successfully housetrain?

A: Always Supervise: 

  • Use crates, gates, ex-pens, and tethers to make sure your dog is never out of sight.
  • If you cannot directly supervise, then your dog needs to be secure in a safe place.

Clean, Clean, Clean:

  • If your dog has gone to the bathroom somewhere inappropriate, make sure to clean it thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner. Dogs have a better sense of smell than humans, so even if it smells clean to you, they could be attracted back to the same spot.
  • Enzyme cleaners may need to be injected into the carpet pad if need be. You can purchase an injection kit with the cleaner.
  • Use a black light to locate areas where your dog has urinated.

Schedule:

  • Puppies less than four months old urinate more frequently.
  • Put them on a schedule to take them outside regularly.
    •    Every hour
    •    Every 15 minutes when playing
    •    Within 20 minutes after eating
  • Feed regular meals (three times a day for puppies under four months and twice a day if over four months) so that you can predict a bowel movement (usually within 20 minutes of eating) and get them outside.
  • Puppies under four months old need to eliminate at least every couple of hours. Consider hiring someone to come let your dog out or make arrangements to return home regularly.

Reward:

  • Set your dog up for success and reward them each time they urinate or have a bowel movement outside.
  • Immediately reward them after elimination rather than waiting until you get back inside.
  • Take them out on a leash and supervise them each time.
  • You can also use a cue word such as “potty”.
  • Pair this cue with the act of elimination then reward when finished.

Avoid Punishment:

  • Punishment increases the likelihood that your dog will not eliminate in front of you but will not necessarily stop them from soiling other places in the house. Using punishment also causes them to see you as unpredictable.  
  • You can gently interrupt your dog but never punish.

Low Stress Handling® for Cats in the ER

Photo image of a black andwhite tabby cat being treated in the ER

Diagnostic tests were easier on all parties because a food distraction is used. Image courtesy of Alison Gottlieb BS, CVT, VTS(ECC), LSHC-S.

Emergency visits can be a difficult experience for cats. Many emergencies involve pain, and an urgent visit to address this pain can be stressful, leading to fears and anxieties that may result in a lasting aversion to veterinary hospitals, scarring them indefinitely. Because of this, using Low Stress Handling® methods should be a priority, even in an emergency or urgent visit for care.

Communication with Veterinarians

Discuss the best options for managing stress with your veterinarian. Giving your cat antianxiety medication, such as gabapentin, two to three hours before a visit can significantly benefit your cat. Knowing your cat is less anxious may also reduce your own stress level. Calling ahead to inquire about wait times at the emergency clinic offers several advantages. It allows the clinic’s team members to assess whether your cat can remain at home longer and to arrange a scheduled arrival time, thus avoiding a long and stressful wait at the hospital.

Triage

Upon arrival, the first step is triage, which helps determine the severity of your cat’s condition. In most cases, a technician will ask about the reason for your visit, your cat’s overall health, and check vital signs. Sharing information about your cat’s previous behavior in any veterinary setting can be helpful. The approach to triage can vary depending on the facility and your cat’s condition. Remember, as the caregiver, you have the right to decline certain procedures. Technicians often suggest taking the cat to the treatment area, but requesting to accompany your cat is always an option. If your cat is less stressed with you present, which is often the case, make sure to communicate this to the team.

Cats should always be handled with minimal restraint to minimize the onset of protective emotions and defensive behaviors. Techniques such as scruffing (grasping the back of the cat’s neck), applying cat muzzles, and using full body restraint can elevate stress levels and contribute to protective emotions. Whenever possible, staying with your cat provides a way to advocate for your pet in an emergency setting, ensuring their emotional well-being.

Managing Pain and Distress

Before performing diagnostics, a veterinary team member may administer pain medication in cases where pain or injury is suspected. Any condition considered painful for humans is likely to cause pain in cats as well. Many of the diagnostic tools used by emergency facilities often involve handling areas that may be injured or painful, thereby increasing the animal’s pain and stress levels.

For instance, if a cat is suspected to have abdominal pain, the physical examination will include applying pressure to and palpating the abdominal organs, which can be painful. This may be followed by procedures like abdominal radiographs or ultrasound, which also require manipulating the painful area. Administering pain medication not only reduces the discomfort for the cat but also facilitates higher-quality diagnostics by allowing for a more thorough examination.

If pain management alone does not minimize stress during diagnostics and physical exams, sedation should be considered. Many emergency facilities are equipped with various safe and effective sedation medications that can be administered via injection, offering a truly low-stress experience for the cat. These sedatives are safe to use alongside pre-visit pain medications that the cat may have already received. Some forms of sedation can be reversed with a second injection after the procedure. Sedation allows for a more thorough exam and improves the quality of diagnostics, helping to make sure that your cat receives the best possible care.

Photo image of a tabby cat recovering, wearing an E-collar, with several fluid lines attached to legs

Recovery time in the ER. Image courtesy Alison Gottlieb BS, CVT, VTS(ECC), LSHC-S

Low Stress Handling®

Unfortunately, the overwhelming stress of the situation can make it easy to lose focus on your cat’s emotional needs. Stress, in any form, negatively affects a cat’s well-being, potentially complicating the diagnosis, delaying healing, and influencing future follow-up visits.

Caregivers also experience significant anxiety during emergency visits. This stems from concern for their pet, being in an unfamiliar environment with unknown people, enduring long wait times, and worrying about cost. Witnessing other emergencies in the waiting area can further increase anxiety, negatively impacting their cat’s well-being.

Using distractions can be beneficial under these circumstances. Offering favorite snacks, toys, or catnip can help decrease stress for you and your cat. If the visit is not due to gastrointestinal distress, such as vomiting, bringing preferred food items to the clinic such as lickable treats (e.g. Churu®), which are easily portable and favored by cats, can provide a comforting distraction during stressful times.

Toxins

If you suspect toxin ingestion or exposure, contacting the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center can streamline your visit and reduce wait times. This center has a dedicated veterinary team specializing in feline toxicities and is reachable at (888) 426-4435. By calling them before leaving for the emergency clinic, you can receive guidance on the most appropriate course of action and obtain a case number. Please note that there is a fee for this service. With this case number, your veterinarian can access your cat’s file and create an appropriate treatment plan. In some instances, they might recommend monitoring your cat at home, potentially saving you both a trip and money.

Preparation Tips

  •  Be aware of occasional closures due to staff shortages. It is advisable to call ahead before leaving.
  •  Bring items such as a book, phone charger, and snacks for potentially long waits.
  •  Bringing towels and bedding from home can give your cat a sense of familiarity in an unfamiliar environment. Exercise patience, as critical emergencies will take priority.
  •  Have relevant medical records on hand, hard copies or downloaded, especially for visits after hours.
  •  Advocate for your cat’s comfort and well-being, including issues related to pain management and the need for sedation.
  •  Remember, you have the right to say no.

Food Dispensing and Puzzle Toys for Cats

Brown striped kitten playing with puzzle toy

Q: I’ve heard puzzle toys are good for cats. What are puzzle toys?

A: Food dispensing and puzzle toys stimulate your cat’s mental and physical abilities. They are designed to challenge your cat to think and move to access food or treats. These toys can range from simple to complex, offering cats of all ages and abilities a chance to engage their natural instincts and behaviors.

Why food puzzle toys are important:

  1. Mental stimulation: Just as humans benefit from challenges and puzzles, cats too need mental stimulation to keep their minds sharp. These toys require them to think, strategize, and problem-solve.
  2. Physical activity: Many domestic cats live sedentary lives. Puzzle toys motivate cats to move, play, and exercise, which can help prevent and treat obesity.
  3. Mimics natural behavior: In the wild, cats spend a significant amount of time hunting for food. Puzzle toys simulate this hunting behavior, satisfying their instinctual needs.
  4. Controlled feeding: For cats that tend to eat too quickly, puzzle toys can slow the pace, which can help reduce digestive issues.

How to use food dispensing toys:

  1. Start simple. If your cat is new to puzzle toys, start with a simple design to let them get the hang of it.
  2. Use tasty motivators. Fill the toy with treats or kibble that your cat loves. This will encourage them to engage with the toy.
  3. Supervise initial play. Watch your cat the first few times they use the toy to ensure they don’t become frustrated or try to break or ingest it.
  4. Introduce variety. Over time, introduce different puzzle toys to keep your cat’s interest piqued.
  5. Keep toys clean. Clean the toys regularly, especially if you’re using wet food.

Black cat with a lick mat

Specific examples:

  1. Ball dispensers: These are balls that dispense kibble or treats when they roll.
  2. Maze feeders: Cats must navigate the maze to push food to an exit point.
  3. Mat feeders: These are silicone lickable mats for spreading treats or wet food. Some have suction cups to hold them to a vertical surface.
  4. Interactive puzzle boards: These have different compartments and moving pieces where treats can be hidden.
  5. Automated puzzle toys: Battery-operated toys that move or dispense food intermittently.

Additional Resource: For more information, detailed reviews, and further insights into food puzzles and how they benefit cats, visit www.foodpuzzlesforcats.com. This resource provides valuable tips, guidelines, and recommendations tailored for feline companions.

How To Set Up a Treatment Station for Your Pet

Photo of a cat bed on top of a bench

Image courtesy of Barbara Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

All pets will need grooming and veterinary care at some point in their lives. Setting up a predictable treatment station for your pet will help decrease stress. Choose an area that has good lighting, space to work around, and where your pet is comfortable. The goal is to create a positive association with the station so that it can be relocated if needed.

Before you begin:

  • Choose a space where there are no potential triggers and cues in the surrounding environment that may impact your pet’s feelings about the situation. Consider scents, sounds, visuals, and even tactile cues in the environment. 
  • Provide non-slip footing for your pet around the station. 
  • Use pheromones and mask sounds to make the environment a more inviting place.
  • Choose a space where you can easily access everything you need.
  • Make sure your pet associates this area with something good. Toys, food puzzles, and food will help reinforce this feeling.

White puppy stationed on a mat, or rug, on the floor

Image courtesy of Barbara Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Treatment Stations for Dogs

  • A treatment station can be as simple as a mat to give a visual and tactile cue of where you want your dog to be. Non-slip bathmats or yoga mats fold up nicely and are portable. 
  • You may want to use an elevated station depending on your dog’s size and expected treatments. Ensure that the surface is non-slip and your dog can easily get on it. If your dog cannot jump on or off elevated surfaces, training them to accept being lifted or to climb up and down should be a separate exercise.
  • Platforms can be covered with a mat to provide comfort for your dog. 
  • A chair or stool can be used for chin rests with your dog standing on a mat. 
  • Keep the treatment station area inviting for your dog by doing fun things in and around the area. Do not use the station for care that your dog may already have a bad association with before training them to love their treatment station.

Grey and white cat stationed in a cat bed

Image courtesy of Barbara Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

For The Cats

  • Cats thrive on predictability, which makes them great when working with treatment stations.
  • If the treatment station is on the ground, make sure your equipment is accessible.
  • An elevated surface, such as a chair or table with a mat, works well as a treatment station.
  • When using an elevated surface, make sure that there is a way for your cat to easily get on and off. Do not pick your cat up and force them onto the station.
  • You can try using a high-sided bed, carrier, or box and adapt it to be a treatment station.
  • Be aware of scent, visual, auditory, and tactile cues, and triggers in the environment.

Psychogenic Alopecia

A photo image of a cat showing a nearly bald patch on stomach and left hind leg and hip

Hair loss patterns like these can be due to behavioral or medical reasons, indicating the need for a comprehensive dermatological workup, as there can be many underlying causes.

In the cat, overgrooming, licking, biting, chewing, and compulsively pulling out hair can lead to hair loss, thin, uneven coats, or baldness. This behavior typically has a medical cause that must be ruled out before a behavioral diagnosis of psychogenic alopecia can be made. Psychogenic means “of the mind”.

Psychogenic alopecia, also known as self-trauma, is a condition in which cats compulsively pull out their hair, leading to thin, uneven coats or baldness. This behavior typically serves as a diagnosis of exclusion, meaning all possible medical reasons must be ruled out before a behavioral diagnosis can be made. Psychogenic means “of the mind”.

A study by Stephen E. Waisglass, et al., published in The Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, involving 21 cats suspected of this condition, found that 16 had medical reasons for their behavior, two were purely cases of psychogenic alopecia, and three had medical and behavioral causes. The medical issues primarily included unfavorable reactions to food, allergies, or parasites, with half of the cases having more than one cause.

Causes

When this hair loss due to self-trauma has behavioral causes rather than medical, it is called psychogenic alopecia. Behavioral causes are often linked to environmental stress, frustration, or conflict. Potential triggers for this behavior range from changes in the household environment, including the introduction of new pets or people, to competition for resources in multicat households, lack of hiding spaces, insufficient mental enrichment, and even the sight of neighborhood cats. Although it can also stem from a compulsive disorder, this is relatively rare. Cats in multicat households are particularly prone to displaying this behavior when their basic needs are unmet.

Orange and white cat with wrapped tail, showing marked balfnessl

Clinical Signs

Initially, the skin may appear irritated due to pruritus (itch). Itchiness can lead to scratching and licking, chewing, biting, and hair loss, and is the most common symptom of skin disease in cats and dogs. The areas most affected are the flanks (sides). You may not initially notice your cat is overgrooming, as it often occurs only when they are alone or at night; however, the effects on the skin can be seen.

Diagnosis

To diagnose the reason for hair loss in your cat, your veterinarian may start with basic tests, including cytology, to look for infections and skin scrapings to check for mites, followed by fungal cultures and flea medications. They may also conduct blood tests and a urinalysis, along with a thyroid profile, to assess your cat’s overall health. Allergy testing or making a switch to a hypoallergenic diet may be recommended.

If testing does not identify the cause of your cat’s hair loss, glucocorticoids like prednisolone may be prescribed. Diagnosing this condition can be challenging, as both self-inflicted trauma and stress can lead to physical symptoms. However, a primary behavioral cause is more likely if there is a minimal response to treatment with no significant findings from these tests.

Treatment

The treatment plan for this type of hair loss centers around treating the underlying medical conditions present and meeting the basic needs of your cat, which includes environmental modifications.

Known as The 5 Pillars of a Healthy Feline Environment by Sarah Ellis et al., a list of basic needs was published in the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery. These include:

  1.      A safe place for rest and/or hiding.
  2.      Multiple and separated resources.
  3.      Opportunities for play and predatory behaviors.
  4.      Positive, consistent, and predictable interactions with humans.
  5.      An environment that respects the cat’s sense of smell.

Positive reinforcement training can provide social and mental enrichment, improving communication between you and your cat. It also helps in teaching behaviors that can redirect your cat from overgrooming to different activities, reducing overall stress levels. Punishment, such as yelling, physical punishment, or spraying your cat with water, is never recommended. If specific stressors are found, behavior modification can be employed to help your cat develop positive associations with whatever is causing them distress.

Medical Therapy for Psychogenic Alopecia

Behavioral medications can be helpful in some cases and include:

  • Pheromone products help reduce anxiety in some cats. Pheromones are chemicals that cats produce as a means of communication, and the products available for purchase can be used while changing your cat’s environment along with other behavioral therapies. They are available in either a room diffuser or spray.
  • Clomipramine (Clomicalm®) is an antidepressant. A low dose may not be sufficient for psychogenic alopecia. Benefits may not be seen for several weeks.
  • Fluoxetine (Prozac®) is also an antidepressant. Your veterinarian may recommend starting your cat on a low dose and then increasing it if needed. Benefits may not be seen for several weeks.
  • Amitriptyline (Elavil®) is another antidepressant that includes an antihistamine. It does not work well for compulsive disorders but may be helpful to stop itching.

Monitoring and Prognosis for Psychogenic Alopecia

After the self-trauma has stopped and the hair has regrown, you may be able to slowly discontinue behavioral medications while watching your cat to make sure the same behaviors do not start all over again. Be sure to consult with your cat’s veterinarian before discontinuing any medications. Your cat’s long-term prognosis depends on what the underlying cause is for the behavior. Some cats may need medications for a long time, or even for life, while others may not.

With psychogenic alopecia, some cases are easier to treat than others; effective methods may be identified early on, while some behaviors may never completely disappear. Much depends on the extent to which you can address your cat’s source of stress and how well secondary skin infections caused by the trauma of overgrooming can be managed.