The Importance of Play in Cats

Tiger kitty plays with a feather toy

All cats, no matter their age, benefit from consistent interactive play sessions with you. When you play tug or fetch with a dog, playtime is a social activity where you play together. However, for your cat, playtime is less of a social activity and more of a simulated hunting experience. Cats in the wild are ambush predators that spend about 80% of their awake time outdoors hunting for food. Without the opportunity to practice this normal, natural behavior, cats can develop behavior problems.

When Should I Play With My Cat?

If you can, play with your cat twice a day. Morning and evenings are best since that is when cats are naturally more active. If possible, you will want to play before mealtimes so that your cat gets to catch and eat his prey at the end of the play session. Try to play at the same time each day, as predictability helps your cat know when it is time to play and when to rest.

How Long Should Play Sessions Be?

Each play session should be about 10-15 minutes long. Avoid playing with your cat for longer than 15 minutes at a time. Cats are sprinters, not marathon runners. Longer play sessions may result in cats becoming overstimulated or overaroused, and it may be more difficult to wind them down afterward. Think of these play sessions as five 2-minute sessions rather than a straight 10 minutes if you struggle to find time and energy in your day for play.

Photo image of tiger kitty with feather toy in their mouth

Tips for Play:

• Alternate speed of movement. Are you going too fast? Too slow?
• Move the toy away from your cat. Prey does not run up to the predator.
• Move the toy under or behind something. Let it go just out of view. They will not be able to resist.
• Appeal to other senses. Try scented toys, toys that make noise, or toys with different textures.
• Recognize that cats will have different play styles. Play does not have to be running and jumping. It can be stalking, batting, following, watching, etc.
• Your cat is nature’s tiny killing machine. Let them kill the toy.
• Wind the play down. Use the last few minutes of playtime to let your cat wind down. Start to move the toy more slowly so your cat does more watching and stalking than actively chasing. Let the toy gradually “die,” just like real prey.
• Laser Pointers. Laser pointers can be frustrating for some cats since it is a game that your cat can never win. If you use a laser pointer, point it at physical toys that they can sink their claws into, or start playing with the laser and end with a physical toy or food.
• Rotate Toys. Toys that sit out all the time start to look like “dead prey” and are not very interesting to a cat. Rotate toys by putting some away and swapping them out regularly. This makes toys seem like new and keeps cats interested longer.

Understanding and promoting play in cats ensures their happiness, overall health, and well-being. Play nurtures the human-animal bond and allows cats to express their innate behaviors in a safe, stimulating environment. It is never too late to introduce play into a cat’s routine, and even older cats can benefit from regularly scheduled playtime.

Electric Fences

White dog sitting on green grass, in front of wire fencing

Q: I recently moved to a rural area and would like my dogs to run free on my three acres. Is an electric fence a good way to keep them close to home?

A: Electric and invisible fences are a popular method of containment for dogs as an alternative to a physical chain link or privacy fence. They can be cheaper and portable, avoid unappealing fencing, comply with homeowner association rules, and make mowing easier.

Invisible fences can be commercially installed or done by the homeowner. They may be underground or plug-in with a fixed radius. Some are above-ground electric wires attached to wooden fence posts, often seen on cattle farms.

Your dog is trained to recognize a series of flags placed inside the invisible fence line. Your dog is fitted with a collar with adjustable levels of sound, vibration, and shock. If your dog approaches the flags, their collar may give a warning beep, a vibration, or a low-level shock. If your dog passes these flags, the collar emits a strong shock. The shock is intended as a correction to keep your dog from passing the flags and to stay within the property.

Supporters of electric fences state that pain from the shock is temporary and causes no long-term damage. Punishment is defined by your dog and may vary among dogs. Some dogs are more sensitive than others; a dog that is afraid of smoke alarms may be terrified of a beeping collar. Lack of physical harm does not necessarily mean your pet is not experiencing emotional or behavioral damage.

Photo of a brown and white dog running with a ball in their mouth across a green lawn

Potential drawbacks of using an electric fence:

  • The collar battery or skin contacts may be inconsistent or unreliable.
  • Dogs may break through the electric barrier to chase after a squirrel; for example, they may be afraid to pass through the line again to return home because they do not want to receive another punishment.  
  • This “barrier” does not stop wildlife, other dogs, and people from entering your dog’s space.
  • Environmental influences such as deep snow, landscaping, trees, or electronic devices may interfere with the fence signals.
  • The unpredictability of shocks can increase fear and stress. This may cause your dog to:
    • fear going outside; 
    • react more strongly to passing walkers, dogs, and cars since they perceive them as the cause of the shock;
    • redirect aggression toward your children or other dogs if your dog is corrected.

There are much safer methods for keeping your dog on your property, such as: 

  • cattle wire panels, chain link, or privacy fences;
  • runs;
  • a tie out attached to a harness as long as you are supervising your dog;
  • barrier training using positive reinforcement.

Top 10 Myths About Canine Behavior

An adult border collie stands with a border collie puppy as they look out on a river

Let your puppy explore the world with known vaccinated dogs in safe areas. Image courtesy of Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

1. Puppies should not leave the house until they are fully vaccinated.

The critical socialization period for puppies occurs from about three weeks to 14 weeks of age. This is a time in a dog’s life when they learn what is safe in their environment. They are also learning “doggie” social skills and what it means to live in the human world. Vaccinations are administered every three to four weeks until at least 15-16 weeks of age, which marks the end of this critical timeframe. If you wait until your puppy has received all vaccinations before exposing them to the world, your puppy may become more fearful as an adult and lack the necessary coping skills to live in the human world.

2. If your puppy has an accident in the house, rub their nose in it.

Housetraining is a process. Young puppies need to eliminate frequently, especially when they are active and playing. Never punish your puppy for having an “accident” in the house. Punishment only teaches your puppy that it is unsafe to eliminate in front of you. They do not instinctively understand that eliminating the inside is “bad” and the outside is “good”. It is your responsibility to guide them, supervise their actions, and reward them when they choose to eliminate outside.

3.  My dog is afraid because they were abused.

See Myth #1. If your dog cowers and flinches every time you raise your voice or give the “you should know better” stare, chances are it was not abused but rather under-socialized. Genetics can also play a role in this behavior.

4.  My dog is angry at me and just being spiteful.

Dogs do not possess the same level of critical thinking skills as humans. Dogs think in the moment, similar to how a toddler might. For dogs, it is not about long-term consequences, and they do not stay awake at night plotting their next move. Their actions are based on what works for them in the moment. Behaviors that caregivers may interpret as anger or spite are often motivated by anxiety, frustration, and fear instead.

5.  My dog is jealous.

Just as with anger and spite, dogs do not experience jealousy, at least not to the level that humans do. Once again, it is more about the immediate moment and other basic emotions driving behavior rather than an ulterior motivation such as jealousy.

Photo of a Jack Russel demonstrating the "hump" behavior, perceved as showing dominance, over a brown dog

Dominance theory has been debunked. Humping is a sign of overstimulation or social anxiety. Image courtesy of CDP

6.  My dog is being dominant. I must show him who is Alpha.

Dominance in dogs has been debunked.  The term “alpha” came from a study based on wolf behavior and is no longer used. Comparing dogs to wolves can often be misleading. Humans have significantly altered both the appearance and behavior of domesticated dogs. However, wolves do not adhere to an “alpha” structure; instead, they form a family unit that lives and hunts together, comprising a breeding pair (commonly referred to as mom and dad) and their offspring, which may include members from current and previous litters. The size of the pack varies depending on the availability of food in the area. Most conflicts are resolved without fighting to prevent injuries. If dogs are fighting or showing aggression, it is often due to social anxiety, not a desire to dominate. They act out because they do not feel safe.

Photo of three attentive dogs watching their handler

The learning process is universal for all animals, regardless of breed. Image courtesy of Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

7.  Certain breeds learn differently than other dogs.

The process of learning is universal among animals. They learn through making associations and experiencing consequences as they interact with their environment. It is incorrect to label dogs, or certain breeds, as stubborn. Often, the issue lies with the human handler. Utilizing food as lures without providing reinforcements quickly enough or in the appropriate manner can lead to misunderstandings. It may seem as though your dog is stubborn when, in reality, the instructions provided are not clear or timely.

Photo of four eager and attentive dogs watching their handler

Image courtesy of CDP

8.  Shock collars and prong collars don’t hurt if you use them properly.

Some trainers advocate using “all the tools in your toolbox”, suggesting that you need to “correct” your dog when they make mistakes to teach them what they did was wrong. While it is true that these tools can be effective in the right hands, they are not necessary. The potential for negative side effects often outweighs the benefits. Research has shown that dogs can learn just as fast, if not faster, through positive reinforcement techniques rather than positive punishment and using aversive tools. Positive punishment involves adding something undesirable (like shock or pain) to stop a behavior.

9.  My dog tried to bite me; I should contact a trainer.

Behavior issues can be complex, stemming from underlying medical conditions, emotional problems, or mental health issues. Therefore, it is advisable to start with a thorough examination by your veterinarian if your dog exhibits behavioral issues. In some cases, the next step might be to consult a veterinary behaviorist before considering a trainer. Contacting a trainer can be beneficial for teaching basic behaviors like sit, come, and walk nicely on a leash, but may not always be the best first step for addressing behavior problems.

Photo of a black and white dog showing his teeth

Never punish a growl. Your dog is trying to communicate discomfort. Image courtesy of CDP

10.  My dog growled at me. I need to punish the growl.

One of the most important behaviors to reinforce rather than punish in dogs is growling. Growling serves as information, signaling that a dog feels uncomfortable in a situation. It is not an act of aggression but a form of communication. Address growling constructively by identifying and avoiding the actions that trigger it. Punishing a growl risks suppressing this warning signal, potentially leading to a bite without any preceding warning.

How to Play Tug Safely

Puppies require many outlets for chewing and biting behavior. When done safely, tug can be a great game to engage your puppy.

Handler places first tug toy in front of puppy

Image courtesy of Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Playing with two tug toys of the same value works best. Tug with one toy, and then, after a few seconds, release the other toy and allow your puppy to have it.

Handler holds first tug toy in front of puppy and second toy is in other hand

Image courtesy of Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Pick up the second tug to entice your puppy to drop the one they are playing with and tug the new toy.

Puppy plays with one tug toy while handler holds another

Image courtesy Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Pick up the toy your puppy dropped and repeat.

Handler shows puppy alternate tug toy

Image courtesy Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Going back and forth playing tug this way not only prevents your puppy from redirecting their energy and excitement toward you, but also teaches to drop items.

This behavior is reinforced with continued play.

If your puppy has difficulty switching toys, you can always toss a few treats on the ground to get them to release.

Board and Train Facilities

June 18, 2024Ask LSH Dogs Pet Owner Trainer

Person holding palm out to dog on leash

Q: I have a new dog who needs training. A person near me offers a boarding and training service so I can send my dog there for a few weeks while I’m on vacation and he comes back to me trained. Is this a good way to train him?

A: Board and train programs for dogs are offered by some dog trainers or facilities. In this type of program, you send your dog to stay at the trainer’s facility or home for an agreed-upon time, ranging from a few days to several weeks. The trainer works with your dog on certain skills, which may include obedience (sit, stay, come), behavior modification (aggression, anxiety, barking), or socialization with other dogs and people. Trainers, their facility, and their staff should be thoroughly researched before you send your dog away to stay with them.

Although having someone else train your dog may be appealing because they do the work and you pick up a trained dog, there are significant drawbacks to this program style.

  • Trainers should be training you, the caregiver. You are the one training your dog because you are the one living with your dog.
  • The training environment is different than your home environment. Your dog may become well-trained at the facility, but that training may not carry over into your home unless you have worked with your dog.
  • Training is an excellent time for you and your dog to bond, which cannot occur if you are not there.
  • The trainer may use a method you are uncomfortable with or may address a behavior differently than you would want.
  • Your dog may become more anxious in an environment that is not their home. Fear and anxiety can prevent your dog from learning.
  • Some facilities board the dogs together, not allowing for safe spaces or quiet time. Forcing dogs together does not create socialization and can have long-term consequences.
  • Board and train programs have historically used punishment-based methods such as shock or prong collars.

Even if you do get excellent referrals to a board and train facility, research them thoroughly.

  • The person working with your dog should be a certified, positive-reinforcement trainer who does not use aversive equipment or techniques.
  • Ask your veterinarian what they have heard about the facility.
  • Verify the facility is equipped to handle an emergency with your dog. Identify their protocols for taking your dog to a veterinarian or emergency clinic.
  • Ask how the facility provides daily updates. Live video access would be an excellent bonus.
  • Training time with you should be built into the program before your pet is released to return home. The trainer should teach you how to work with your dog for consistency.
  • There should be an agreed-upon time frame for training. Sudden extensions, which then add to the fees, are concerning. 
  • The trainer’s goals and values for your dog should align with your expectations.
  • Avoid trainers who use punishment tools such as choke collars.

Starting Your Kitten Off on the Right Paw by Enrolling in Kitty Kindergarten

Photo of two sphynx kittens

Kittens Edison and Ethel. Image courtesy of Marianne Manning, RVT, LVT, KPA CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP, CFVP, VTS

One way to help a newly adopted kitten thrive and grow into a behaviorally healthy adult cat is to enroll them in a kitten class, often referred to as kitty kindergarten. In class, caregivers will learn how to distinguish between normal and abnormal cat behaviors, observe and interpret cat body language, and address their cat’s basic needs through play and positive reinforcement.

Caregivers often seek out classes when their new kitten is doing things they don’t like, such as scratching the furniture, climbing drapes, or biting ankles. Kitty kindergarten can teach caregivers to make changes to the environment, create suitable outlets for these behaviors, and use positive reinforcement to teach desirable behaviors. Clicker training, which utilizes a sound to mark the kitten’s behavior as it happens, makes it clear to the kitten what they did right and what they will be rewarded for in the future. Kitten classes also teach foundational behaviors such as coming when called and targeting and stationing, which are useful for carrier training and more.

There may be both virtual and in-person options available for kitten classes. The benefit of in-person classes is the opportunity to expose and socialize the kitten to new people, different environments, and to other kittens in the same age range. However, in-person classes often have an age limit due to a cat’s socialization period. Typically, kittens between seven and 14 weeks of age are accepted, though some classes only allow kittens 11 weeks or younger.

After 11 weeks, a kitten can become wary and possibly fearful of new people and things and less interested in playing with other kittens. An in-person class for an older kitten runs the risk of causing more behavioral issues rather than providing help. Caregivers who have a kitten over the age limit of an in-person class may still be able to attend without the cat to receive education on setting the kitten up for success. Don’t hesitate to ask for this option.

Two siamese kittens playing with a wand toy

Image courtesy of Marianne Manning, RVT, LVT, KPA CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP, CFVP, VTS

An alternative to in-person classes is virtual kitty kindergarten. The benefit of virtual classes is that the kitten can be older than 14 weeks, which is helpful for those who have adopted a kitten from a shelter or rescue. The same education on cat behavior, body language, and solving unwanted behavior problems will be covered, all while training the kitten in the low-stress environment of their home! The downfall of virtual kitten kindergarten is that it lacks the exposure to other kittens, people, or new environments that an in-person class provides. 

When researching kitten classes, look for those run by veterinary professionals, cat behavior consultants, or animal trainers who use positive reinforcement as their training method. Kitty kindergarten is as important as preventative health measures that lead to a long, happy life for your cat.

Computer screen shows a kitten class in session. Image courtesy of Marianne Manning, RVT, LVT, KPA CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP, CFVP, VTS