How To Set Up a Treatment Station for Your Pet

February 20, 2024 • Behavior Bytes Cats Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Student Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Barbara Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Photo of a cat bed on top of a bench

Image courtesy of Barbara Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

All pets will need grooming and veterinary care at some point in their lives. Setting up a predictable treatment station for your pet will help decrease stress. Choose an area that has good lighting, space to work around, and where your pet is comfortable. The goal is to create a positive association with the station so that it can be relocated if needed.

Before you begin:

  • Choose a space where there are no potential triggers and cues in the surrounding environment that may impact your pet’s feelings about the situation. Consider scents, sounds, visuals, and even tactile cues in the environment. 
  • Provide non-slip footing for your pet around the station. 
  • Use pheromones and mask sounds to make the environment a more inviting place.
  • Choose a space where you can easily access everything you need.
  • Make sure your pet associates this area with something good. Toys, food puzzles, and food will help reinforce this feeling.

White puppy stationed on a mat, or rug, on the floor

Image courtesy of Barbara Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Treatment Stations for Dogs

  • A treatment station can be as simple as a mat to give a visual and tactile cue of where you want your dog to be. Non-slip bathmats or yoga mats fold up nicely and are portable. 
  • You may want to use an elevated station depending on your dog’s size and expected treatments. Ensure that the surface is non-slip and your dog can easily get on it. If your dog cannot jump on or off elevated surfaces, training them to accept being lifted or to climb up and down should be a separate exercise.
  • Platforms can be covered with a mat to provide comfort for your dog. 
  • A chair or stool can be used for chin rests with your dog standing on a mat. 
  • Keep the treatment station area inviting for your dog by doing fun things in and around the area. Do not use the station for care that your dog may already have a bad association with before training them to love their treatment station.

Grey and white cat stationed in a cat bed

Image courtesy of Barbara Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

For The Cats

  • Cats thrive on predictability, which makes them great when working with treatment stations.
  • If the treatment station is on the ground, make sure your equipment is accessible.
  • An elevated surface, such as a chair or table with a mat, works well as a treatment station.
  • When using an elevated surface, make sure that there is a way for your cat to easily get on and off. Do not pick your cat up and force them onto the station.
  • You can try using a high-sided bed, carrier, or box and adapt it to be a treatment station.
  • Be aware of scent, visual, auditory, and tactile cues, and triggers in the environment.

Psychogenic Alopecia

February 9, 2024 • Cats CattleDog Publishing Newsletter I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Veterinary Professional

By Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB; VIN Dermatology Consultants

A photo image of a cat showing a nearly bald patch on stomach and left hind leg and hip

Hair loss patterns like these can be due to behavioral or medical reasons, indicating the need for a comprehensive dermatological workup, as there can be many underlying causes.

In the cat, overgrooming, licking, biting, chewing, and compulsively pulling out hair can lead to hair loss, thin, uneven coats, or baldness. This behavior typically has a medical cause that must be ruled out before a behavioral diagnosis of psychogenic alopecia can be made. Psychogenic means “of the mind”.

Psychogenic alopecia, also known as self-trauma, is a condition in which cats compulsively pull out their hair, leading to thin, uneven coats or baldness. This behavior typically serves as a diagnosis of exclusion, meaning all possible medical reasons must be ruled out before a behavioral diagnosis can be made. Psychogenic means “of the mind”.

A study by Stephen E. Waisglass, et al., published in The Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, involving 21 cats suspected of this condition, found that 16 had medical reasons for their behavior, two were purely cases of psychogenic alopecia, and three had medical and behavioral causes. The medical issues primarily included unfavorable reactions to food, allergies, or parasites, with half of the cases having more than one cause.

Causes

When this hair loss due to self-trauma has behavioral causes rather than medical, it is called psychogenic alopecia. Behavioral causes are often linked to environmental stress, frustration, or conflict. Potential triggers for this behavior range from changes in the household environment, including the introduction of new pets or people, to competition for resources in multicat households, lack of hiding spaces, insufficient mental enrichment, and even the sight of neighborhood cats. Although it can also stem from a compulsive disorder, this is relatively rare. Cats in multicat households are particularly prone to displaying this behavior when their basic needs are unmet.

Orange and white cat with wrapped tail, showing marked balfnessl

Clinical Signs

Initially, the skin may appear irritated due to pruritus (itch). Itchiness can lead to scratching and licking, chewing, biting, and hair loss, and is the most common symptom of skin disease in cats and dogs. The areas most affected are the flanks (sides). You may not initially notice your cat is overgrooming, as it often occurs only when they are alone or at night; however, the effects on the skin can be seen.

Diagnosis

To diagnose the reason for hair loss in your cat, your veterinarian may start with basic tests, including cytology, to look for infections and skin scrapings to check for mites, followed by fungal cultures and flea medications. They may also conduct blood tests and a urinalysis, along with a thyroid profile, to assess your cat’s overall health. Allergy testing or making a switch to a hypoallergenic diet may be recommended.

If testing does not identify the cause of your cat’s hair loss, glucocorticoids like prednisolone may be prescribed. Diagnosing this condition can be challenging, as both self-inflicted trauma and stress can lead to physical symptoms. However, a primary behavioral cause is more likely if there is a minimal response to treatment with no significant findings from these tests.

Treatment

The treatment plan for this type of hair loss centers around treating the underlying medical conditions present and meeting the basic needs of your cat, which includes environmental modifications.

Known as The 5 Pillars of a Healthy Feline Environment by Sarah Ellis et al., a list of basic needs was published in the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery. These include:

  1.      A safe place for rest and/or hiding.
  2.      Multiple and separated resources.
  3.      Opportunities for play and predatory behaviors.
  4.      Positive, consistent, and predictable interactions with humans.
  5.      An environment that respects the cat’s sense of smell.

Positive reinforcement training can provide social and mental enrichment, improving communication between you and your cat. It also helps in teaching behaviors that can redirect your cat from overgrooming to different activities, reducing overall stress levels. Punishment, such as yelling, physical punishment, or spraying your cat with water, is never recommended. If specific stressors are found, behavior modification can be employed to help your cat develop positive associations with whatever is causing them distress.

Medical Therapy for Psychogenic Alopecia

Behavioral medications can be helpful in some cases and include:

  • Pheromone products help reduce anxiety in some cats. Pheromones are chemicals that cats produce as a means of communication, and the products available for purchase can be used while changing your cat’s environment along with other behavioral therapies. They are available in either a room diffuser or spray.
  • Clomipramine (Clomicalm®) is an antidepressant. A low dose may not be sufficient for psychogenic alopecia. Benefits may not be seen for several weeks.
  • Fluoxetine (Prozac®) is also an antidepressant. Your veterinarian may recommend starting your cat on a low dose and then increasing it if needed. Benefits may not be seen for several weeks.
  • Amitriptyline (Elavil®) is another antidepressant that includes an antihistamine. It does not work well for compulsive disorders but may be helpful to stop itching.

Monitoring and Prognosis for Psychogenic Alopecia

After the self-trauma has stopped and the hair has regrown, you may be able to slowly discontinue behavioral medications while watching your cat to make sure the same behaviors do not start all over again. Be sure to consult with your cat’s veterinarian before discontinuing any medications. Your cat’s long-term prognosis depends on what the underlying cause is for the behavior. Some cats may need medications for a long time, or even for life, while others may not.

With psychogenic alopecia, some cases are easier to treat than others; effective methods may be identified early on, while some behaviors may never completely disappear. Much depends on the extent to which you can address your cat’s source of stress and how well secondary skin infections caused by the trauma of overgrooming can be managed.

Choosing the Right Litterbox for Your Cat

February 8, 2024 • Ask LSH Cats I am a... Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

orange kitten in blue cat box

Q: I’m getting a kitten. What kind of litter box should I get?

 A: Making the right litter box choice is more than just appearance. It plays an important role in cat behavior and house-soiling prevention.

Size Matters

  • Choose a larger box. Cats prefer a spacious area for digging and covering.
  • Ensure the box can comfortably accommodate your cat’s size, ideally 1 1/2 times the length of the cat from nose to base of the tail.
  • Cats should be able to turn around in the box without touching the sides.

Litter Depth and Type:

  • Cats have a natural digging behavior.
  • Two to three inches of litter allows them to cover efficiently.
  • Non-scented, clay, clumping litter is often best.
  • Some cats may not like crystals, pellets, or wood shaving-type litter.

Types of Litter Boxes

  • Self-cleaning boxes can be convenient but might scare some cats.
  • Hooded boxes provide privacy, but make sure there is proper air circulation.
  • Open boxes are generally more accepted but provide less privacy.

Three different types of litter boxes

covered litter box

How Many Boxes?

  • Follow the golden rule: number of cats + 1.
  • In multi-cat households, put boxes in various locations to give options and to prevent territorial disputes.

Location is Key

  • Choose a quiet, low-traffic area.
  • Have a minimum of one box per level of the house.
  • Keep the box away from feeding zones.
  • Ensure easy access and escape routes.

a litterbox with access stairs

Maintenance

  • Traditional boxes require manual cleaning.
  • Choose a box that is easy to clean.
  • Daily scooping keeps the box fresh and encourages usage.
  • The box should be emptied and washed weekly with non-scented dish detergent.
  • Litter should be replaced as needed.
  • Avoid using litter box liners because some cats do not like the feel or smell.

Special Considerations

  • For cats that tend to kick litter out, use high-sided boxes and consider placing a litter-trapping mat under the box.
  • Elderly or arthritic cats might benefit from ramps or lower sides.
  • Some cats might be sensitive to certain box materials or odors.

Every cat is unique. It might take trial and error to find the perfect fit.

Introducing a New Cat Into the Home

February 7, 2024 • Behavior Bytes Cats I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Veterinary Professional

By Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Long-haired tabby kitten among many colorful toys

Introducing a new cat to your home is a big deal, especially if you already have cats. It is like adding a new member to your family, and you want everyone to get along. So, here is how you can introduce everyone for a smoother and more peaceful transition.

1. Prepare a cozy room: Before the new cat arrives, set up a quiet room with everything the cat needs: a comfortable bed, food, water, a litter box, and toys. This will be the new cat’s safe space to start getting used to your home.

2. Lots of resources: Cats can be territorial and a bit possessive about their stuff. To avoid any fights, make sure there are enough toys, food bowls, and litter boxes around the house. This way, each cat has their own space and does not feel the need to compete.

3. Check with your veterinarian: Make sure your new cat is healthy and does not have any illnesses that could spread to your other cats. A quick visit to the veterinarian can help ensure everyone stays happy and healthy.

4. Swap scents: Cats learn a lot about each other through smell. You can help them get used to each other by swapping their scents. Use a soft brush to gently brush one cat along the side of their face where their scent glands are, and then use the same brush on the other cat. This mixes their scents and helps them feel more familiar with each other. Do not do this if it makes either cat anxious.

5. Community room introductions: Let each cat have time to explore the community space without the other. When each can relax in this space, it is time to let them mingle. Always monitor body language during this step to make sure neither is getting stressed. Be ready with treats and toys to make sure these introductions are positive, and never leave them unattended until you are sure they are comfortable around each other.

6. Treats and play in the community room: Start by feeding them treats in the shared space. You can ask them to do tricks and other fun behaviors they already know, like touch or going to a mat. This helps them to associate one other with yummy food and fun things. Make sure each cat can retreat to their own space, and do not force them to interact.

7. Gradually increase together time: As they start getting used to each other, you can let them spend more time together. But always keep an eye on them to make sure everyone is playing nice.

8. What about other pets? Follow a similar process introducing your new cat to other pets. Be sure your cat always has an opportunity to escape into their safe space and supervise dogs and cats together until you are certain they are friends.

Remember, patience is key. Some cats become friends quickly, while others take more time. By giving each their own space and a bit of time, you will be more successful in bringing them together.

Scent Work – A Natural Outlet for Decompression and Enrichment

January 19, 2024 • Cats CattleDog Publishing Newsletter Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Trainer

By Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Brown dog sniffing around blue boxes and orange cones

Images Courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Dogs and other species explore and learn a great deal about their world through scent. In fact, that is how they primarily explore the world when they are born. Humans may not understand the importance of giving dogs access to sniffing time, and as a result, sniffing and seeking out different odor sources is actively discouraged. To ensure that dogs are ready to receive information, humans tend to reinforce eye contact and attention rather than letting dogs sniff and explore.

Scent work is a great way for dogs, cats, and even horses to get a chance to use those natural senses. Sniffing has physical and emotional benefits for dogs. It can decrease heart rate, lower blood pressure, and improve a dog’s optimism. Dogs build confidence and independence when they are allowed to sniff. Scent work provides important observations about physical health and emotional stressors. 

There has been a significant increase in the popularity of sport scent detection, where dogs and handlers participate in trials to locate unknown hidden scent targets. This activity is enjoyable for both dogs and handlers, as it allows dogs to engage in sniffing while giving handlers insight into their dog’s natural abilities. When organizing scent exercises, having clear objectives is essential. Sport scent detection is goal-oriented, while scent work for decompression and emotional well-being is more casual. Scent work can be as casual as taking a loose leash walk and letting your dog explore or as structured as competitive sport scent detection.

Blue boxes set up on floor ready to begin scent work

Images Courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Setting up Scent Work for Decompression and Enrichment

Choice is important when setting up scent activities for decompression and enrichment. Use a variety of your dog’s favorite food rewards or toys to encourage your dog to hunt.  When using food, have the rewards easily accessible and be liberal with the amount. Do not inadvertently create too much pressure for your dog by having them work too hard. Walls, corners, or many changes in footing can create conflict for your dog when they are learning the game. Do not micromanage. As dogs understand the game better, space out the food rewards until they are all in one location. 

Observing the behavior when your dog is searching, as well as after they are done, determines if the game is helpful with decompression or if adjustments need to be made. If arousal increases (searching more frantically) or your dog becomes reluctant to search, add in a recovery search by liberally scattering treats in the area.

As your dog becomes more proficient in searching, their confidence increases despite changes in the environment, and their recovery time from distractors or triggers decreases. Your dog learns they have a choice in movement, and they can rely on their own senses. 

Tips for Doing Scent Work

Ensure your dog has a choice at all times. They can choose what to eat and what not to eat. Do not point out every piece of food to them nor force or trick them into an area they missed. When setting up the course, be mindful that some dogs find certain scents aversive. If you direct your dog, they do not get the full benefits of scent work.

Make changes to the environment slowly. The addition of a single item can make or break a dog’s confidence; do not add too much change at once.

Keep it short. If your dog is struggling in the environment, remove your dog, change the environment, and then bring your dog back into the easier area. 

Let your dog work. Most of the time, it should be about your dog figuring it out for themselves. Be quiet and let them work. If they find a particularly difficult item, providing a jackpot of treats and praise is acceptable.

A black dog demonstrates his skills at a blue box

Images courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Do not add fancy target scents for your dog to search. If you choose to use a specific non-food odor, ensure it is not offensive to your dog. The goal is decompression, not to create conflict. 

Incorporating synthetic animal scents can also be a fun variation if your dog does not find them offensive.

Most of all, observe and adjust to your dog’s needs. The idea is to encourage active sniffing, which may involve liberal treats in a small area with no distractions. Incorporating some form of scent work into your dog’s daily routine has benefits that transfer to all aspects of your dog’s life.

What is a Flirt Pole and How Do You Use it?

January 19, 2024 • Ask LSH Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Trainer

By Christine D. Calder DVM DACVB

A photo of a pole with a long line and toy attached

Flirt pole. Image courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPA-CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP Elite

Q:  What is a flirt pole, and how do you use it?

A:  A flirt pole is a popular training tool for dogs, using a long pole or handle with a rope or string on one end and a lure or toy on the other. This tool is effective in engaging and exercising dogs and training them to modify certain behaviors, including leash reactivity, excessive jumping, and hyperexcitability.

When selecting a flirt pole, it is important to choose one that is sturdy and of appropriate length, usually around four to six feet, to maintain a safe distance from your dog. These poles are available for purchase, or one can be crafted using PVC tubing and a clothesline, with knots tied at both ends of the pipe to secure the clothesline in place.

The next step involves attaching a safe and durable toy, suitable for interactive play, and capable of withstanding your dog’s biting and pulling. Toys made from durable materials are often recommended for this purpose. Then, it’s time to find an appropriate place for flirt pole play. This space should be free of obstructions or hazards that could harm the dog. Ideally, a backyard or fenced-in area. If the activity takes place indoors, make sure there is enough space and consider using a smaller flirt pole. Introducing the flirt pole to your dog involves allowing them to sniff and investigate it without initiating play. This step is important for identifying and reducing any potential fear or anxiety your dog may have towards the new tool.

Once your dog is comfortable, begin interactive play by moving the toy in enticing ways, such as dragging it on the ground or making quick, darting movements. Encourage your dog to chase and catch the toy while you maintain control of the pole.

Incorporating behaviors, such as “sit,” “take it,” “drop it,” and “down” on a mat, is a valuable aspect of flirt pole play. This practice aids in the development of impulse control and offers opportunities to reinforce desired behaviors in the presence of distractions. It is important to monitor your dog’s intensity and duration of play. Since flirt pole play can be physically demanding, watching for signs of fatigue is essential, and providing breaks is necessary to prevent overexertion. The play should be stopped if your dog appears in pain or breathless.

Three dogs playing with flirt pole on a deck

Image courtesy of Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP

Always end the fun on a positive note. Ending while your dog is still engaged and excited helps create a positive association with the flirt pole and maintains their interest in the activity. Safety is important during flirt pole play. Avoid jerking or yanking motions to prevent straining your dog’s neck or causing injury. Close supervision is needed to make sure that they do not swallow or ingest any part of the toy. Prioritizing your dog’s safety ensures that the flirt pole remains a beneficial and enjoyable training tool.

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