When Excitement Causes Your Dog to Tinkle: Conflict (Submissive) and Excitement Urination

A Rhodesian Ridgeback steps up on a log and the request of their handler

To minimize conflict and excitement, dogs can be taught to step-up on a platform or other surface for greetings. Image Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Does your dog suddenly lose control of their bladder when you get home? Or when you lean over to pet them, or while greeting visitors? This behavior may be excitement or conflict urination.

Since any disease process that affects the kidneys and bladder, such as a urinary tract infection, bladder stones, or ectopic ureters, can make it difficult for some dogs to control their bladder, these conditions must be ruled out first. Bloodwork, diagnostic imaging (radiographs and ultrasound), and a urinalysis to look for infections, crystals, and urine concentration ability help determine if certain types of liver or endocrine diseases are playing a role in this behavior.

Once all medical causes have been ruled out, it is time to consider a primary behavioral cause, such as incomplete house training, conflict urination (submissive urination is the older term), or excitement elimination (urination). Each of these behaviors has a different cause but is treated in a similar fashion. Incomplete housetraining requires going back to the basics, while conflict and excitement urination will have a different management and treatment plan.

Regardless of the cause, punishment is often counterproductive and never the solution.

Conflict urination, motivated by both fear and anxiety, often results when your dog wants to interact with you but isn’t sure you are always safe. This conflict triggers spontaneous, non-conscious urination that can occur during greetings or other direct interactions with you. With this behavior, dogs often roll on their back (a conflict behavior) before urinating, while jumping or even standing in place. Regardless, your dog doesn’t feel safe if this type of urination occurs.

To keep your dog feeling safe during greetings, never reach for or loom over your dog. Avoid prolonged eye contact or speaking sternly. Never force your dog on their back or physically punish them in any way. Instead, greet your dog on their level and invite them into your personal space rather than invading theirs. Instead of reaching over their head, try scratching under their chin. Keep these interactions low-key and always use a calm, soothing, and gentle voice instead of a stern or high-pitched one.

The key to changing this behavior starts by making all greetings more predictable for your dog. Consistency and predictability are key. Change up greetings by teaching your dog to station on a waterproof mat or step up onto a platform. Asking your dog to pick up a toy or using a well-known cue like touch to earn a reward gives opportunities to redirect your dog easily but also encourages interactions in a less threatening, more dog-friendly manner.

Man standing on gravel road, holding Rhodesian Ridgeback by a leash

Touch is a versatile behavior that can be used for many things, including greetings. Image Courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Unlike conflict urination, excitement urination tends to occur when your dog becomes overly enthusiastic during greetings. Punishment usually is not the cause of this behavior, and often, the urination occurs while the dog is wiggling in place or running towards you to say hello. This behavior has more to do with an overflowing bladder rather than a negative emotional state. To change this behavior, be sure to supply plenty of opportunities throughout the day for your dog to empty their bladder. This may mean asking for favors from friends and family members or hiring a dog walker to make sure your dog has plenty of opportunities to eliminate throughout the day.

The first step to reduce this behavior is changing your greeting ritual. The goal is to reduce overstimulation and excitement. Keep a jar of treats or a toy box handy near the door, and don’t ignore your dog. Ignoring can result in anxiety and frustration. Instead, toss a few treats or your dog’s favorite toys while you are walking through the door. Calmness is key, and playing games such as capture desirable behaviors helps teach your dog how to remain calm while building up a list of low-key behaviors that can be offered when greeting your dog.

Use a safe haven, which may be a room or an area behind a gate. Place your dog here before visitors arrive, but ensure they have plenty of time to eliminate beforehand.

Dog looking through gate

A gate can be used to manage your dog’s first access to visitors. Image Courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Once your visitors enter the home and have settled, let your dog out for low-key greetings, including cueing touch, tossing treats, or fetch with a toy.  Conditioning relaxation on a mat helps your dog learn how to stay calm and relax around distractions, including visitors and in new environments.

Two dogs on mat indoors sleeping in the sun

Conditioning relaxation is one way to help your dog stay calm when visitors are in the home. Image Courtesy of Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Conflict and excitement urination can be frustrating, but it is important to remember that your dog isn’t doing this out of anger or spite. They just can’t consciously control their bladder. In the case of excitement urination, the good news is most will outgrow the behavior as they get older.

That usually isn’t the case with conflict urination. The most effective way to reduce this type of urination is to avoid punishment, encourage calmness, and change greeting rituals. If the behavior is not improving or spontaneously appears, seek help from your veterinarian. There may be an underlying medical reason why the behavior is not getting better.

The Alpha Roll

Cream and white border collie sitting on a platform with person holding an orange clicker next to them

Positive reinforcement leads to trust between you and your dog. Image Courtesy of Pat Koven. BA, LVT, KPACTP

Q: My trainer wants me to do an alpha roll with my dog during training sessions, but my dog struggles and gasps for air. How does this method help?

A: The alpha roll is a training method that is no longer recommended. It involves forcefully flipping a dog onto their back and holding them there. This approach was originally based on the alpha theory in dog training, which suggested that dominant dogs in a pack would flip subordinate ones onto their backs to establish dominance. However, this theory has been disproven by modern research. Studies that initially proposed this idea were conducted on wolves and do not apply to domestic dogs, as dogs do not naturally form packs in the same way.

There are significant risks associated with the alpha roll. It can cause physical harm to the dog, including injuries to the legs, spine, and internal organs. It can also create fear and stress in the dog, damaging the bond between the dog and their caregiver. Dogs may lose trust in their handler and bite in an attempt to defend themselves.

Moreover, this technique can lead to increased aggression in dogs. If a dog feels frightened and trapped, they may defend themself, potentially escalating to snapping and biting. The dogs become fearful of being touched, which can make ordinary activities, like putting on a leash, challenging or even dangerous.

The alpha roll is also ineffective in teaching dogs desired behaviors. It does not communicate what is expected of them and removes their sense of choice and control. Essentially, it teaches dogs to fear and mistrust humans. Instead, it is advisable to use positive reinforcement training methods.

These methods focus on rewarding good behavior, helping to build trust and confidence in the dog. They are also more humane and effective for teaching.

If you are unsure about your trainer’s methods, it is wise to consult with your veterinarian. Consider seeking a certified trainer who employs modern, science-based positive reinforcement techniques. For assistance in finding a qualified dog trainer or behavior professional, you can refer to resources such as CattleDog Publishing.

How to Beat Confinement Woes in Dogs and Cats

Photo of a dog behind a gate playing with toys

Image courtesy of Laura Gendron

If your pet has an upcoming surgery or is recovering from an injury or illness and the discharge instructions include exercise restriction and confinement, here are some ways to make this time as low stress as possible.

Consider what the requirements will be during recovery and prepare in advance. Does your pet need to be completely immobile? Is light activity acceptable? Do they need to avoid stairs? These are great questions to consider when gathering supplies and setting up space for the recovery period.

Restricting Activity

A Safe Haven: Establish a safe haven (What is a Safe Haven for Your Dog?) to provide a quiet place which includes a comfortable bed, toys, and feeding stations, and litterbox if needed. Depending on comfort level and required restrictions, this could be a crate or an entire room. Gates and exercise pens can prevent access to stairs and furniture jumping. Calming music and pheromones may be beneficial.

Enrichment

Enrichment is essential for pets, especially when regular exercise is restricted. To keep your pet’s mind active and engaged, incorporate beneficial activities like puzzle toys, lickable mats, and snuffle mats (Choose Your Enrichment Wisely). These tools provide mental stimulation while promoting restful behaviors. Moreover, positive reinforcement training can offer enrichment with minimal movement. Activities such as teaching your pet to touch a target (Training Series: Target Training Dogs with Touch), offer eye contact (Training Series: Teaching Eye Contact to a Dog), or relax on a mat (Mat Training in Dogs: Teaching to Station on the Mat), provide mental stimulation and help in maintaining calmness. These methods are important for your pet’s mental health and well-being when physical activity is limited.

Leash Walks

Leash walks can be an option for your pet, depending on the level of exercise they are allowed. Using a front clip harness or a head collar, which can effectively reduce pulling when properly conditioned, makes walks more manageable and safer. It is also advisable to use a four-to-six-foot leash for better control (How to Stop Pulling). Short, frequent walks not only offer a chance for elimination but also give your pet an opportunity for some level of physical activity without overdoing it.

Post Surgical Equipment

It is important to be aware of the specific tools required for post-surgery recovery and to get your pet accustomed to these tools before the surgery. Ask for details like the location of the incision and what items like a cone or bootie are needed (Is Your Pet Afraid of the Cone? Other Alternatives?). Make sure the equipment fits properly to avoid situations where your pet may be inadequately protected during recovery. It is not ideal to discover that a cone is too short, or a body suit is too large when it is already needed.

A tuxedo cat wearing an orange body suit

A cat wearing a body suit. Image Courtesy of Shannon Emmons, DVM

Introducing all new items slowly allows time for animals to get used to each one. Techniques such as luring, targeting, shaping, or capturing behaviors (Capturing Desirable Behaviors ) can encourage animals to willingly interact with these items, like putting their head through a cone or a foot in a bootie. The duration of wear can be gradually increased as they become more comfortable with the equipment.

Photo of a dog wearing a basket-type muzzle

Image Courtesy of Shannon Emmons, DVM

Muzzle Training

For dogs, muzzles are an important safety tool and should be conditioned well in advance of any procedure where they might be required. Conditioning helps your dog become comfortable with wearing a muzzle, reducing stress and potential resistance when it is needed. Among the various types of muzzles available, a basket muzzle is often preferred. This style allows for the feeding of treats, which can be beneficial both for conditioning and during the procedure itself. Additionally, basket muzzles provide open airflow.

In terms of muzzle training, a slow and gradual approach is recommended (Desensitizing Your Dog to a Muzzle). The goal is to build positive associations with the muzzle. This process involves introducing the muzzle in a calm and non-threatening manner, allowing them to sniff and explore it at their own pace. Gradually, your dog can be encouraged to put their nose into the muzzle for short periods, while building duration slowly.

For dogs with unique facial structures or those that find standard muzzles uncomfortable, custom muzzles are an option. These are designed to fit the shape of a dog’s face, for a comfortable and secure fit. These types of muzzles are especially useful for breeds with distinctive nose shapes or sizes, such as bulldogs and Dobermans.

Preparing a Fearful Pet for Elective Procedures

Preparing a fearful pet for elective procedures involves an individualized approach to reduce their fear, anxiety, and frustration. This is especially important for pets who are uncomfortable in veterinary settings. If the procedure is urgent, the use of Low Stress Handling® techniques is one way to do this. 

If the procedure is not urgent, cooperative care training can be started in preparation. This training makes the procedure more predictable to your pet and provides a sense of control over what happens to them. Pets can learn to be voluntary participants in their own care, such as accepting handling, grooming, or medicating. This approach not only reduces stress during the actual procedure but also helps during their recovery, as a less stressed pet is likely to heal better and faster.

For some pets, medications may be needed to manage anxiety. This may include short-term or longer acting medications. These medications can make confinement and the overall experience of a veterinary procedure less stressful for them. It is important to consult with a veterinarian to determine the most appropriate medication and dosage for each pet. Combining medications with Low Stress Handling® techniques and cooperative care training can significantly improve the experience.

How To Teach an Emergency Recall

Border collie in the snow answering recall

Photo courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPA-CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP Elite

Emergency recall is an important skill to teach your dog for management around other dogs, people, and places. This behavior may even save their life by stopping them from darting out into traffic or escaping the yard to chase a deer.

When teaching this behavior, always start in a calm, distraction-free environment such as a quiet room or the backyard. Choose a word or phrase that will become the cue, such as “this way” or “let’s go”. Pair a unique, high-value treat or toy to establish a positive association with your chosen cue.

The training process begins by randomly saying the cue when your dog is near and feeding the treat (or giving the toy) before walking away. Repeat this process five to 10 times throughout the day for two weeks.

After two weeks, test the emergency cue when your dog is elsewhere in the home. Be sure to have treats or the toy handy and, as your dog comes, give them several of the special treats or initiate a game of play. If they do not come quickly, start over again and continue the pairing of cues and treats five to 10 times daily for another two weeks.

border collie on grass answering recall

Image courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPA-CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP Elite

Over time, gradually increase the difficulty level. Place your dog on a long line and move the practice outside. Give your dog an opportunity to sniff and venture a short distance away before using the recall cue. When they return, reinforce them well. Slowly expose them to more distracting environments, including parks or other locations. Repeat the process on the long line and continue to reinforce the recall.

Once learned, continue to practice the behavior one to two times a week. Always offer that special treat or toy, making sure your dog is paid for choosing to return. If you follow this process and a real emergency occurs, your dog should still return even if you do not have this special treat handy because you have a history of paying them well. Praise them immediately, but still reinforce them with the special treat or toy as soon as you can.

Never use the emergency cue to call your dog to something they may not like, such as a bath or nail trim. This can poison the cue, create mistrust, and teach the dog to avoid returning in the future. Remember to be positive. Teaching an emergency recall takes time, consistency, and patience.

Bribing vs. Luring

Photo of a person giving a dog a treat from a spray can

Image courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S, FFCP Elite

Q: I have started using positive reinforcement training with my puppy. My trainer wants me to lure my puppy to sit, but I think it’s bribing. What’s the difference?

A: Lure and bribe are two different concepts in dog training, each with its own purpose and potential drawbacks. The presence of the reward, whether food or a toy, acts as a conditioned stimulus, which signals an upcoming cue for a specific behavior. Many trainers often avoid using lures because the animal may only respond when they see the reward, which may slow new learning. If the animal is shown the food or toy before performing the behavior, it is a bribe.

Luring is a technique used to teach an animal new behaviors by using a treat or toy to guide them into the desired position or action. For instance, to teach sit, you may move a treat over and behind their head to encourage them to sit, and then you give them that treat. While luring can help the animal understand and learn the new behavior, the goal is to reduce the reliance on treats over time as your dog learns the behavior.

Photo of border collie with a ball in his mouth sitting in a car

Image courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S, FFCP Elite

Bribing your puppy during training is when you use treats to make them do something they already know, but it can cause problems. If you show the treat before you give the cue, your puppy might get confused and not learn properly. They might not understand what you want, be scared, unable to do it, or just wait for the treat. Bribing is not good for teaching them in the long run. It is better to use luring at first when teaching new things, but then you should start using words and hand signals more. Try not to bribe for things they already know, or they will always expect a treat. The goal is to have a puppy who can learn to respond to your cues without always needing a reward.

Stationing to a Platform

Photot of yellow cocker spaniel sitting on a platform

Image Courtesy Breanna Norris, KPA, CTP

Stationing or platform training is a skill often used in dog training, zoos, or aquariums. It is an important skill for even puppies to learn. Station training is similar to teaching a stay or wait in a specific area. For puppies, use slightly elevated stations so they do not need to jump on or off the platform. A homemade wooden square about three inches off the ground works well. Plastic or wooden platforms can also be purchased.

Stationing is a life skill. Once your dog understands this behavior, the station or platform is a place to put their leash and collar on or off, for grooming,  to wait while the door is open, or to have their muddy feet wiped. Puppies who learn to wait on platforms also quickly learn to step on a scale at the veterinary clinic and stay on a grooming table.

To teach this skill, break the behavior down into these parts:

  • Step on the platform.
  • Walk or run to the platform.
  • Stay on the platform.
  • Get off the platform.

Begin by staying near the platform and lure your puppy to put a paw on the platform. Some puppies may be cautious at first. Go at their pace and make sure the platform is secure, nonslip, and large enough for them to stand or sit on comfortably. Reinforce the smallest effort of walking towards the platform by offering a high-value treat until, eventually, they put all four paws on the station.

Once they can comfortably stand on the platform, feed multiple treats in a row, one after the other, slowly lengthening the time that they are on the platform. Increase time slowly because even a few seconds are long for your puppy. 

Next, walk or run with your puppy to the platform and feed them when they get there. Make this a fun game. With each repetition, reinforce for one, two, three, and then all four paws on the platform. Once they have successfully gone to the platform and can stay there for a few seconds, add a cue.

 Liver and white springer spaniel on blue mat

Image Courtesy Breanna Norris, KPA, CTP

Before moving with your dog toward the platform, give the cue such as, “Go to your spot!” or “Platform”. Then, go to the platform and give a few treats once your dog is on the station. 

After a few successful repetitions, say the cue and pause, then run to the platform. Your puppy will begin to go to the platform after hearing the cue without you running with them. Follow them to the platform and reward them in position. Slowly increase the duration they stay on the platform by increasing the interval between treats. Once they have learned to stay on the platform, teach a release to indicate that stationing is finished. While luring them off or tossing a treat, use a verbal cue such as, “All done!” or “The end”.

Here are a few tips for successful station training with your puppy:

  • Keep training sessions under two minutes with your puppy, and be sure to keep the training upbeat. 
  • Be generous with small, high-value treats, and keep a positive attitude as you train.
  • Before adding other handling activities, make sure your puppy is comfortable with that task off the platform. Do not add anything scary while on the platform; otherwise, the platform will be scary, too.
  • When adding any handling or other behaviors for stationing, make sure your puppy has mastered staying on the platform until released. As you add another handling activity, decrease the time and be generous with treats.