How to Beat Confinement Woes in Dogs and Cats

Photo of a dog behind a gate playing with toys

Image courtesy of Laura Gendron

If your pet has an upcoming surgery or is recovering from an injury or illness and the discharge instructions include exercise restriction and confinement, here are some ways to make this time as low stress as possible.

Consider what the requirements will be during recovery and prepare in advance. Does your pet need to be completely immobile? Is light activity acceptable? Do they need to avoid stairs? These are great questions to consider when gathering supplies and setting up space for the recovery period.

Restricting Activity

A Safe Haven: Establish a safe haven (What is a Safe Haven for Your Dog?) to provide a quiet place which includes a comfortable bed, toys, and feeding stations, and litterbox if needed. Depending on comfort level and required restrictions, this could be a crate or an entire room. Gates and exercise pens can prevent access to stairs and furniture jumping. Calming music and pheromones may be beneficial.

Enrichment

Enrichment is essential for pets, especially when regular exercise is restricted. To keep your pet’s mind active and engaged, incorporate beneficial activities like puzzle toys, lickable mats, and snuffle mats (Choose Your Enrichment Wisely). These tools provide mental stimulation while promoting restful behaviors. Moreover, positive reinforcement training can offer enrichment with minimal movement. Activities such as teaching your pet to touch a target (Training Series: Target Training Dogs with Touch), offer eye contact (Training Series: Teaching Eye Contact to a Dog), or relax on a mat (Mat Training in Dogs: Teaching to Station on the Mat), provide mental stimulation and help in maintaining calmness. These methods are important for your pet’s mental health and well-being when physical activity is limited.

Leash Walks

Leash walks can be an option for your pet, depending on the level of exercise they are allowed. Using a front clip harness or a head collar, which can effectively reduce pulling when properly conditioned, makes walks more manageable and safer. It is also advisable to use a four-to-six-foot leash for better control (How to Stop Pulling). Short, frequent walks not only offer a chance for elimination but also give your pet an opportunity for some level of physical activity without overdoing it.

Post Surgical Equipment

It is important to be aware of the specific tools required for post-surgery recovery and to get your pet accustomed to these tools before the surgery. Ask for details like the location of the incision and what items like a cone or bootie are needed (Is Your Pet Afraid of the Cone? Other Alternatives?). Make sure the equipment fits properly to avoid situations where your pet may be inadequately protected during recovery. It is not ideal to discover that a cone is too short, or a body suit is too large when it is already needed.

A tuxedo cat wearing an orange body suit

A cat wearing a body suit. Image Courtesy of Shannon Emmons, DVM

Introducing all new items slowly allows time for animals to get used to each one. Techniques such as luring, targeting, shaping, or capturing behaviors (Capturing Desirable Behaviors ) can encourage animals to willingly interact with these items, like putting their head through a cone or a foot in a bootie. The duration of wear can be gradually increased as they become more comfortable with the equipment.

Photo of a dog wearing a basket-type muzzle

Image Courtesy of Shannon Emmons, DVM

Muzzle Training

For dogs, muzzles are an important safety tool and should be conditioned well in advance of any procedure where they might be required. Conditioning helps your dog become comfortable with wearing a muzzle, reducing stress and potential resistance when it is needed. Among the various types of muzzles available, a basket muzzle is often preferred. This style allows for the feeding of treats, which can be beneficial both for conditioning and during the procedure itself. Additionally, basket muzzles provide open airflow.

In terms of muzzle training, a slow and gradual approach is recommended (Desensitizing Your Dog to a Muzzle). The goal is to build positive associations with the muzzle. This process involves introducing the muzzle in a calm and non-threatening manner, allowing them to sniff and explore it at their own pace. Gradually, your dog can be encouraged to put their nose into the muzzle for short periods, while building duration slowly.

For dogs with unique facial structures or those that find standard muzzles uncomfortable, custom muzzles are an option. These are designed to fit the shape of a dog’s face, for a comfortable and secure fit. These types of muzzles are especially useful for breeds with distinctive nose shapes or sizes, such as bulldogs and Dobermans.

Preparing a Fearful Pet for Elective Procedures

Preparing a fearful pet for elective procedures involves an individualized approach to reduce their fear, anxiety, and frustration. This is especially important for pets who are uncomfortable in veterinary settings. If the procedure is urgent, the use of Low Stress Handling® techniques is one way to do this. 

If the procedure is not urgent, cooperative care training can be started in preparation. This training makes the procedure more predictable to your pet and provides a sense of control over what happens to them. Pets can learn to be voluntary participants in their own care, such as accepting handling, grooming, or medicating. This approach not only reduces stress during the actual procedure but also helps during their recovery, as a less stressed pet is likely to heal better and faster.

For some pets, medications may be needed to manage anxiety. This may include short-term or longer acting medications. These medications can make confinement and the overall experience of a veterinary procedure less stressful for them. It is important to consult with a veterinarian to determine the most appropriate medication and dosage for each pet. Combining medications with Low Stress Handling® techniques and cooperative care training can significantly improve the experience.

How To Teach an Emergency Recall

Border collie in the snow answering recall

Photo courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPA-CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP Elite

Emergency recall is an important skill to teach your dog for management around other dogs, people, and places. This behavior may even save their life by stopping them from darting out into traffic or escaping the yard to chase a deer.

When teaching this behavior, always start in a calm, distraction-free environment such as a quiet room or the backyard. Choose a word or phrase that will become the cue, such as “this way” or “let’s go”. Pair a unique, high-value treat or toy to establish a positive association with your chosen cue.

The training process begins by randomly saying the cue when your dog is near and feeding the treat (or giving the toy) before walking away. Repeat this process five to 10 times throughout the day for two weeks.

After two weeks, test the emergency cue when your dog is elsewhere in the home. Be sure to have treats or the toy handy and, as your dog comes, give them several of the special treats or initiate a game of play. If they do not come quickly, start over again and continue the pairing of cues and treats five to 10 times daily for another two weeks.

border collie on grass answering recall

Image courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPA-CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP Elite

Over time, gradually increase the difficulty level. Place your dog on a long line and move the practice outside. Give your dog an opportunity to sniff and venture a short distance away before using the recall cue. When they return, reinforce them well. Slowly expose them to more distracting environments, including parks or other locations. Repeat the process on the long line and continue to reinforce the recall.

Once learned, continue to practice the behavior one to two times a week. Always offer that special treat or toy, making sure your dog is paid for choosing to return. If you follow this process and a real emergency occurs, your dog should still return even if you do not have this special treat handy because you have a history of paying them well. Praise them immediately, but still reinforce them with the special treat or toy as soon as you can.

Never use the emergency cue to call your dog to something they may not like, such as a bath or nail trim. This can poison the cue, create mistrust, and teach the dog to avoid returning in the future. Remember to be positive. Teaching an emergency recall takes time, consistency, and patience.

Bribing vs. Luring

Photo of a person giving a dog a treat from a spray can

Image courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S, FFCP Elite

Q: I have started using positive reinforcement training with my puppy. My trainer wants me to lure my puppy to sit, but I think it’s bribing. What’s the difference?

A: Lure and bribe are two different concepts in dog training, each with its own purpose and potential drawbacks. The presence of the reward, whether food or a toy, acts as a conditioned stimulus, which signals an upcoming cue for a specific behavior. Many trainers often avoid using lures because the animal may only respond when they see the reward, which may slow new learning. If the animal is shown the food or toy before performing the behavior, it is a bribe.

Luring is a technique used to teach an animal new behaviors by using a treat or toy to guide them into the desired position or action. For instance, to teach sit, you may move a treat over and behind their head to encourage them to sit, and then you give them that treat. While luring can help the animal understand and learn the new behavior, the goal is to reduce the reliance on treats over time as your dog learns the behavior.

Photo of border collie with a ball in his mouth sitting in a car

Image courtesy of Pat Koven LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S, FFCP Elite

Bribing your puppy during training is when you use treats to make them do something they already know, but it can cause problems. If you show the treat before you give the cue, your puppy might get confused and not learn properly. They might not understand what you want, be scared, unable to do it, or just wait for the treat. Bribing is not good for teaching them in the long run. It is better to use luring at first when teaching new things, but then you should start using words and hand signals more. Try not to bribe for things they already know, or they will always expect a treat. The goal is to have a puppy who can learn to respond to your cues without always needing a reward.

Stationing to a Platform

Photot of yellow cocker spaniel sitting on a platform

Image Courtesy Breanna Norris, KPA, CTP

Stationing or platform training is a skill often used in dog training, zoos, or aquariums. It is an important skill for even puppies to learn. Station training is similar to teaching a stay or wait in a specific area. For puppies, use slightly elevated stations so they do not need to jump on or off the platform. A homemade wooden square about three inches off the ground works well. Plastic or wooden platforms can also be purchased.

Stationing is a life skill. Once your dog understands this behavior, the station or platform is a place to put their leash and collar on or off, for grooming,  to wait while the door is open, or to have their muddy feet wiped. Puppies who learn to wait on platforms also quickly learn to step on a scale at the veterinary clinic and stay on a grooming table.

To teach this skill, break the behavior down into these parts:

  • Step on the platform.
  • Walk or run to the platform.
  • Stay on the platform.
  • Get off the platform.

Begin by staying near the platform and lure your puppy to put a paw on the platform. Some puppies may be cautious at first. Go at their pace and make sure the platform is secure, nonslip, and large enough for them to stand or sit on comfortably. Reinforce the smallest effort of walking towards the platform by offering a high-value treat until, eventually, they put all four paws on the station.

Once they can comfortably stand on the platform, feed multiple treats in a row, one after the other, slowly lengthening the time that they are on the platform. Increase time slowly because even a few seconds are long for your puppy. 

Next, walk or run with your puppy to the platform and feed them when they get there. Make this a fun game. With each repetition, reinforce for one, two, three, and then all four paws on the platform. Once they have successfully gone to the platform and can stay there for a few seconds, add a cue.

 Liver and white springer spaniel on blue mat

Image Courtesy Breanna Norris, KPA, CTP

Before moving with your dog toward the platform, give the cue such as, “Go to your spot!” or “Platform”. Then, go to the platform and give a few treats once your dog is on the station. 

After a few successful repetitions, say the cue and pause, then run to the platform. Your puppy will begin to go to the platform after hearing the cue without you running with them. Follow them to the platform and reward them in position. Slowly increase the duration they stay on the platform by increasing the interval between treats. Once they have learned to stay on the platform, teach a release to indicate that stationing is finished. While luring them off or tossing a treat, use a verbal cue such as, “All done!” or “The end”.

Here are a few tips for successful station training with your puppy:

  • Keep training sessions under two minutes with your puppy, and be sure to keep the training upbeat. 
  • Be generous with small, high-value treats, and keep a positive attitude as you train.
  • Before adding other handling activities, make sure your puppy is comfortable with that task off the platform. Do not add anything scary while on the platform; otherwise, the platform will be scary, too.
  • When adding any handling or other behaviors for stationing, make sure your puppy has mastered staying on the platform until released. As you add another handling activity, decrease the time and be generous with treats.

How to Teach Dogs To Use a Nail Board for Dewclaws

A photo of a piece of PVC cut lenghthwise

A cut piece of PVC pipe makes a perfectly curved scratchboard. Image Courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Teaching your dog to use a nail board can reduce the stress of nail maintenance. You may wonder how to get those pesky dewclaws.

Once your dog knows how to use a nail board for their front feet, they can adapt their skills for their dewclaws. This may take a little more work initially.

You will need:

  •  A non-slip surface
  •  High-value treats
  •  A curved nail board appropriate for the diameter of your dog’s paw

A curved scratchboard is created by cutting PVC pipe, a can, or a bucket in half. The material should also be sufficiently strong so it does not bend. Apply stair tread or skateboard grip tape to both the inside and outside. The dewclaw should come in contact with the sides when the dog’s paw is inside. 

Dog begins to touch the scratchboard

Image Courtesy of Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Dog with right foot up on the scratchboard

Image Courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT
  • Start by presenting the curved scratch board to your dog and give the cue you use for the front foot scratchboard. Mark and reward any scratching attempts.
  • Adjust the angle of the scratchboard as you hold it so that the dewclaw comes in contact with the surface. 
  • If your dog struggles with scratching on the inside surface of the scratchboard, you can teach them to scratch the outside.
  • To work with the outside of the curved scratchboard, present it to your dog vertically and give the cue. When your dog scratches, mark and reward. With each repetition, rotate the angle of the board so that the dewclaw is in contact with the board if needed. 
  • Mark only for the dewclaw contacts. Reinforce generously as your dog works to figure out what part of their paw is being rewarded. You may need to reduce your criteria slightly if your dog struggles so that they do not lose interest in the game. They will begin to purposely aim to have their dewclaw contact the surface. 

Nail maintenance can go from a dreaded event to a fun game with your dog.

Flooding

Photo of a cat in a cage being introduced to a "back scratcher" stick

Image Courtesy of Pat Koven

Person and dog in a shelter-like run/cage

Q: I volunteer at a shelter, and we use back scratchers to socialize fearful cats. I think this makes some of them more scared. Do I keep pushing it?

A: Many cats in shelters are afraid. We should be careful not to force them into situations they are uncomfortable with because it might make their fear worse. This is referred to as “flooding.”

What is flooding? Flooding is a method used to make people or animals face their biggest fears head-on, hoping they will get over it quickly.

Why might flooding be problematic? Think about being really scared and feeling trapped without an escape. That’s how these cats might feel. Some might just seem to “shut down” and not react, but inside, they are terrified. This reaction is called “learned helplessness”.

What is learned helplessness? It is when someone or an animal feels so overwhelmed by fear that they just stop trying or reacting, even if they are still deeply frightened.

Are there other ways to help? Yes, there are better ways to make cats feel safe and friendly. We can introduce them to new things slowly and reward them for being brave. This way, they’ll learn to associate good things with what used to scare them.