Taming the Howls: Managing Your Dog’s Fear on Halloween

 Border collie wearing cowboy hat

Image Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

October has rolled in, and with it comes the excitement of Halloween: a celebration filled with delightful costumes, pumpkin carvings, and of course, plenty of sweets. However, amidst the eerie music, doorbell rings, and groups of disguised trick-or-treaters, our canine companions can feel quite overwhelmed. Let’s explore some ways to help our furry friends navigate this spooky season with ease.

  1. Understand the Fear

Before attempting any solutions, it is crucial to understand why dogs might be afraid during Halloween:

  •  New noises: The unfamiliar sounds of fireworks, doorbell rings, or even excited screams can unsettle our pets.
  •  Strange scents: With all the new decorations and costumes, a plethora of new scents enter their environment.
  •  Odd sights: Masks, costumes, and wandering kids can be unsettling. After all, it is not every day that your dog sees a walking banana or a tiny werewolf!

  2. Prep Your Pooch Early

  •  Window film: Apply film to street-facing windows to reduce reactivity.
  •  Safe haven: Designate a quiet room or space with their favorite toys, bed, and water where they can retreat when feeling overwhelmed.
  •  Boarding: If your dog is comfortable with boarding but uncomfortable with visitors, schedule a night away. Make your reservations early.

Dog in a lion's mane costume

Image Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

  3. Halloween Night

  •  Keep them inside in their safe haven: This not only prevents them from reacting to every doorbell ring but also avoids the risk of them bolting out the door.
  •  ID tags: In the event they do get out, ensure that their identification is up to date so they can be returned to you safely.
  •  Distractions: Consider giving your dog a new toy or treat to engage with during the busiest trick-or-treat hours.
  •  Calming aids: Discuss with your vet the possibility of using music, sprays, lickable treats, or even wearable items like anxiety wraps.

  4. A Treat for Them Too!

With everyone getting treats, it is a nice gesture to have something for your pup. Make sure it is dog-friendly and avoid any candies or chocolates which can be toxic. Consider making a special dog treat or buying them a new chew or puzzle toy.

  5. Be Cautious with Costumes

If you decide to dress up your dog:

  •  Ensure comfort: The costume should not restrict movement, vision, or breathing.
  •  Test drive: Let them wear the costume several times before the big day so they can get used to it.
  •  Always supervise: Never leave your dog unattended while wearing their costume.

Border collie licking a blue cup

Image Courtesy of Pat Koven, LVT, KPA-CTP

  6. Watch the Decor

  •  Avoid decorations that might be scary or harmful to your dog. Also, be wary of wires or small parts that they might chew on.

While Halloween is a time of fun and festivity for many, our four-legged friends might not always see it that way. By being proactive, understanding, and prepared, you can ensure a safe and comfortable Halloween for everyone in the household.

The Reactive Dog Path

Brown and white dog looking into distance

Image Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

Reactivity is an emotional response to a change in the environment that is based in fear, anxiety, or frustration. Dogs can explode or implode in their reactivity, which means they can lash out (external response) or shut down (internal response). Regardless of the type of response, it is important to recognize both as emotional.

When you have a reactive dog, it is easy to feel embarrassed, defeated, and frustrated. If you expect too much from your dog and place them in situations before they are ready, setbacks in the training process occur, and progress is not made. Breaking down the training and behavior modification steps into stages helps create a clear path forward and provides patterns of predictability, improving success rates.

These steps include:

1. Understanding

Knowing why your dog is struggling and what can realistically and practically be done to change how they feel and react is the first step. Understanding your dog’s body language will help you recognize when they are stressed. If you can figure out whether they are trying to escape, avoid, or approach the trigger, you will gain insight into their motivation and prevent a reaction from occurring. You can also use this method to identify what triggers your dog’s behavior.

2. Prevention & Environmental Management

Ensuring your dog feels safe should be a priority. Managing the environment by avoidance triggers keeps your dog from practicing this behavior and stops the progression. With repeat exposure, your dog will have an opportunity to practice the undesirable behavior, potentially becoming self-rewarding. Therefore, the behavior will be more likely to happen again in the future, with more intensity and less warning beforehand. 

For example, think about your dog’s reaction to another dog on a walk. When on a leash, your dog might bark, growl, or lunge at another dog either at a close distance or far away. As your dog continues to react in this manner, the other dog moves away. What did your dog learn from this interaction? They learned their behavior was successful at scaring the other dog away, or they may be frustrated because they never had an opportunity to meet the other dog.  Either way, they were given an opportunity to practice and fine-tune this behavior for the next encounter, so the reaction will take less time to occur and likely be more intense.

3. Build Foundation Behaviors at Home

Woman sitting quietly petting yellow dog

Image Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

Before you can start any type of behavior modification, your dog needs to learn certain foundation behaviors. Teaching your dog to touch your hand with their nose, chin rest, recall, and voluntary eye contact are all behaviors to build upon and use during the behavior modification process. Start by teaching your dog these behaviors in safe and low-distracting environments such as your living room, bedroom, or kitchen. Once they are learned in these locations, expand to other areas of the house and into your yard.

For example, if your reactive dog barks and lunges when they see other dogs while on a walk, think about what behavior you would rather see and how to keep your dog’s attention focused on you instead. These skills will be necessary if you hope to change your dog’s emotional response in this situation. Without foundation behaviors, your dog’s emotional brain is much more likely to override their thinking brain, which means the behavior will be hard to change. 

4. Skill Building in Quiet Open Spaces

Once your dog learns critical foundation behaviors, then it is time to start practicing them away from home. Secure and quiet locations with an open space allow an opportunity to keep your dog a safe distance away from triggers while you practice. This type of environment gives your dog an opportunity to sniff and explore, which also helps to decrease stress and anxiety. Options such as open fields, abandoned or quiet parking lots, and yards or areas that can be rented (Sniff Spots) make great places to practice these new behaviors and work on your dog’s focus and engagement with you.

Black dog with a blue leash on green grass

Image Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

5. Controlled Distraction

Once your dog is responding to basic cues and you can keep their attention in a quiet, open space, plan an outing. Choose a controlled environment such as a parking lot or meet up with a friend and their dog (if your dog is friendly with theirs). Be sure to have a solid plan and exit strategy.

Use a “touch” cue to guide your dog as you practice turning around or moving away to avoid new people or dogs. As your dog becomes more comfortable and continues to engage with you, you can get closer to the triggers but avoid direct interaction.     

Since you and your dog have practiced this behavior in less distracting environments, your dog should already know what to do. Keep these sessions short. If your dog becomes stressed, use your exit strategy and return to the previous step (quiet open spaces) in this process.

Dog sitting at standing woman's feet

Image Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

6. Practice in Real-World Settings

Two dogs walking on long lines on green pasture grass

Image Courtesy of Laura Gendron, CPDT-KA, LFDM, FFCP

Once you get to this stage, it is time for your dog to experience the real world and all the uncertainty that comes with it. As your dog’s coping skills develop and their comfort level improves, you will still need a plan and exit strategy. However, if your dog continues to struggle, remember that some dogs may be more comfortable at home and shouldn’t be expected to interact or make friends with everyone. If this is the case, continue to enjoy your quiet walks, take sniff walks, and play games in the yard instead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Medical Management of Behavioral Conditions

Nearly all animal behavior cases benefit from a multi-modal approach consisting of medication, environmental management, and behavior modification. When treating behavioral conditions, your veterinarian can choose from a variety of medications and create a personalized treatment plan.

This guide answers common questions regarding the types of medications prescribed in the treatment of behavior cases.

Why Do We Prescribe Medication, and What Is the Goal?

The goal of medication is to help pets cope with stress and improve their learning potential. This allows your pet to feel safer, making management, training, and behavior modification more effective.

A veterinarian or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist will prescribe medication for three main reasons:

  • decrease the intensity of your pet’s reactions;
  • decrease the frequency with which they occur;
  • decrease the recovery time from an episode. 

To teach your pet new things, they need to be comfortable enough to learn. In pets that are fearful and anxious, medication helps make learning possible.

With medication, the goal is not to sedate your pet or change their personality. If it does, a discussion with your veterinarian may be needed to find a more suitable medication.

Which Types of Medications Are Used?

Medications used to treat behavioral conditions typically fall into two broad categories:

Daily medications are often used when triggers are either unavoidable, unpredictable, or common in their life. Typically given once or twice a day, these medications can take four to six weeks to be effective. This is referred to as the loading period. After that, doses may need to be adjusted, or medications changed.

Rapid-acting medications are used prior to a stressful event or when initially starting a daily medication. Rapid-acting medications are useful because they only take 30 minutes to two hours to take effect. This allows pets prompt relief when these types of events are predictable or when extra support is needed quickly.

How Safe Are Behavior Medications?

While no medication comes without risks, they are usually tolerated well, and long-term side effects are uncommon. A decrease in appetite is the most common side effect, although some may experience vomiting, diarrhea, or drowsiness. In rare instances, a pet may have increased anxiety or agitation. In these cases, your veterinarian may adjust the medications or dosage.

Will Medication “Fix” Your Pet?

As part of a complete treatment plan, medications can reduce the severity, frequency, and intensity of behavior but do not guarantee a cure. Management, training, and behavior modification are still needed.

When Can My Pet Stop Medication?

While some pets may be successfully weaned off medications, others may need continued treatment. Often, behavioral conditions are managed but not cured.

Your veterinarian or board-certified veterinary behaviorist will help you determine what is best for you and your pet. 

Do Dogs Grieve?

Sad woman with terrier

Q:  My 14-year-old dog passed away suddenly, and I’m worried about how my other dog will do. Is there anything I should do?

A:  When a family dog dies, you may wonder how your other dog is feeling and if they understand. Some dogs may go into a deep depression, while others take little notice. Some pets are tightly bonded and notice their missing housemate, yet others may be affected by the change in routine, structure, and overall dynamics in the home. 

What are some indicators of a grieving pet?

  • A change in appetite
  • Increased sleeping or lethargy
  • Increased vocalization (barking and whining)
  • Withdrawn behavior
  • Lack of interest in walks
  • Decreased interactions with people.

Keep your pet’s previous routine as consistent as possible, and do not make sudden changes. Most pets rely on predictability and consistency; changes increase stress. When you lose a dog, avoid deep cleaning the house or purging their belongings since this changes the environment. Your dog might have used the other bed, toys, or bowls, and these items represent normalcy and comfort for them.

If your dog was ill for a long time, you may have significantly changed your routine for them. Your other pets have also been living with this routine. Keep mealtimes, snacks, and walks on the same schedule but offer special treats or favorite foods if your dog is interested.

Be emotionally available. If your dog seeks attention, provide extra comfort. Maintain a calm environment and reward your dog for relaxing behaviors. Some dogs prefer their space, so always invite them into yours. If they want more walks or playtime, that can benefit you as well. Do things together that your dog enjoys, such as going for car rides, hikes, sniff walks, or just hanging out in the yard.

You may consider another pet if your dog is sociable and likes other animals. Although your dog may have been comfortable with their companion, this does not necessarily mean they will accept new pets. Consider if you have time to spend with both pets and if you can commit emotionally and financially to a new addition.

Each pet will grieve in their own unique way. In time, your dog should improve, but if their behavior is concerning or continues, a checkup with your veterinarian is recommended. 

You may also be grieving, so remember to take care of your own emotional needs. Your dog may be feeling stressed because you are upset and acting differently. Online support groups, books, and counseling are available specifically for people grieving the loss of their pet.

Pilling Your Cat the Low Stress Handling® Way

Orange jar of cat treats.

Cat treats. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Chances are, at some point in your cat’s life, they are going to need medications. Making sure your cat receives this medication can be challenging and stressful. Transdermal medications, which are applied to the inside of the ear flap, are not always ideal or effective, while liquid medications tend to cause a mess. Then there is the question, “Did my cat actually ingest any of it?”. It is often hard to know how much medication actually made it into the cat and how much is on your shirt.

There are many different ways to “pill” a cat. Some methods use force, while others involve trickery and bribing. You can wrap your cat in a towel and pry open their mouth, stick a pill down the back of their throat, and chase the pill with water to get them to swallow.

Other methods include using a pill gun to avoid manually opening their mouth, crushing the pill, or opening the capsule to mix with food. However, no methods guarantee your cat will safely and effectively take their medication.

You may notice they are now actively avoiding you or, even worse, trying to scratch or bite in self-defense. This leads to the question: What if your cat willingly ate medications from your hand? Or came to you to “ask” for more? Would you believe this can be a reality? All it takes is a little bit of flexibility, ingenuity, and preparation.

Here Are a Few Useful Tips on How to NOT Pill Your Cat:

Method One:

This is an easy one. Find something you can easily hide a pill in, such as a pill pocket, piece of lunchmeat, baby food, Churu®, or cheese. It doesn’t have to be anything special, just something you know your cat will eat, no questions asked.

Coat the pill and feed it to your cat from your hand, in their bowl, or even try “accidentally” dropping it on the floor- oops!

Method Two:

What if there was a way to get your cat to come to you willingly to take their medication? That would be amazing! To make this dream come true, it all starts with a mat. Just like dogs, cats can easily learn how to station on a mat using positive reinforcement techniques. This behavior is not hard to teach, but it takes some time, a little bit of skill, and preparation. If you start when your cat is young, chances are this is a behavior they will remember for life.

If your cat is older, don’t despair, they can still learn. It may take a little more time for your cat to figure out what causes the treats to appear and how to keep them coming once they start. But once your cat figures out the game, it will be easy to slip a pill into one or more of the treats. Chances are they will gobble it up like the rest without a second thought.

If you don’t have the time or desire to teach this behavior, you have another option. Use a non-slip bathmat and either bring it to your cat or have them come to you. Which method you choose doesn’t matter, but if you are electing to have your cat come to you, make sure you are consistent in the location.

Bring the bathmat out twice a day and give your cat three special treats on this mat every day. Once again, make sure it is something you know your cat will eat. Offer treat number one, followed by treat number two, then quickly follow up with treat number three. The goal would be to place the medication in treat number two eventually. Make sure to put the special mat away after your cat finishes their treats and walks away.

Method Three:

This method is a variation of method two but adds in a lickable mat. You can place the lickable mat on the non-slip mat or just use the lickable mat by itself and follow method number two.

Cat treats. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Lick mat. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

   

Method Four:

What happens if your cat is suspicious about medications? Did you know that you can purchase empty gel caps and hide your cat’s medication in them? Depending on the size, you may even be able to hide multiple medications all in one.

Lick mat. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Lick mat, empty gel cap, and cat treats. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Example of an empty gel capsule. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

  

In this situation, the process is the same as above, but first practice giving your cat an empty gel cap on their mat before adding the tablet or tablets. If you don’t mind the mess, you may find that your cat will eat the gel cap directly out of your hand. No questions asked!

Assorted gel caps. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Gel cap. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Medication hidden in a treat. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

  

You can also use these methods to carrier train your cat. Again, start early to get your cat comfortable with the process before you need it, and instead of bringing the carrier to your cat, leave it out in an area where they like to spend time during the day. Do this well in advance of your departure (weeks to months) so it doesn’t raise suspicion or cause your cat to flee. Every day, place the lickable mat with special treats inside the carrier, just like methods two and three outlined above.

Your cat might eat the gel cap directly from your hand. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Tiny amount of medicine. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

  

These are just a few ways to medicate cats using Low Stress Handling® methods. No fight, no stress, and no pain. Just a yummy snack to make your cat’s day.

Make it interesting. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Medicine gone, no questions asked. Photo Courtesy Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Jumping Up! How to Help Your Pup

Jumping up on people is a troublesome behavior that happens when a dog is excited. People reinforce the behavior by petting and providing praise when the dog is happy to see them. Others scold or push the dog off, which can also reinforce this behavior. Conflicting interactions can make it difficult for your dog to understand what is expected. Jumping up is often tolerated or encouraged in small puppies but then discouraged once puppies have grown, causing confusion and frustration.

Manage the environment to prevent jumping by using barriers such as gates or crates. Leashes can be beneficial management tools to prevent jumping in the first place. A leash should not be used to pull or jerk your dog off someone; instead, use a food lure to move your dog off and away from the person. Call your dog and reinforce them for coming back to you.

When you know a guest will be arriving, have your dog behind a barrier to remove the opportunity to jump on them. Giving a food puzzle toy prior to the guest’s arrival can reinforce your dog for remaining behind the barrier. It keeps them engaged so they do not try to jump over the barrier or vocalize due to frustration. If this does occur, redirect your dog back to their food puzzle toy.

Set up training sessions to reinforce four paws on the floor as an alternative behavior to jumping. You will need:

  • easily accessible treats in a treat pouch or at a treat station near the front door;
  • your dog on a leash, kept loose throughout the session;
  • another person to help. Use different people in each training session to help generalize this behavior.

Woman putting treat on the floor in front of black dog

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Training session example:

Phase 1: Start with your dog on a loose leash and place a treat on the ground while they keep four paws on the floor. Do this without the distraction of another person present. Keep the rate of reinforcement high by placing a treat on the ground every two to three seconds.

Phase 2: Enlist the help of someone your dog already knows to minimize excitement. While the helper stands still, place a treat on the ground every two to three seconds if the dog keeps four feet on the floor.

Girl watches as woman puts a treat on the floor in front of a black dog

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Phase 3: Have the helper move around. If this causes excitement for your dog, step away from the helper or ask the helper to move less until your dog can keep four paws on the floor. As you make it harder for your dog, the rate of reinforcement should remain high.

Phase 4: If your dog is successful, ask the helper to become more animated. This could mean removing their shoes and coat. Continue placing a treat on the ground every two to three seconds when your dog keeps four paws on the floor.

Phase 5: Have the helper slowly approach. This can be challenging if your dog loves to interact with people. Increase your reinforcement rate to every one to two seconds.

Woman watches while girl gives a treat to a black dog

Photo Courtesy of Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Phase 6: If you are concerned your dog may jump or if they get too excited and do jump, place a food treat near their nose and lure them away from the helper. At the next repetition, decrease the level of distraction.

When a guest arrives unexpectedly, grab a handful of treats from the treat station and scatter them on the ground. This encourages your dog to keep four paws on the floor while eating.  Determine if they should remain near the guest or need to go behind the barrier.

This exercise can be used for greeting people on walks or in new environments. Your dog learns that people approaching or coming into the home is a cue for food on the floor. This builds a positive association with meeting new people and interacting properly while also encouraging the four paws on the floor behavior.