Voluntary Head Dunking

A black dog dunks his head in a bowl of water

This dog is voluntarily dunking their head. Images courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHC-S

Teaching your dog to voluntarily dunk their head after exercise can help them cool down and clear their nose and eyes of debris. Research published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA) suggests this innovative method can help keep dogs safe in hot weather. A study conducted at the Penn Vet Working Dog Center at the University of Pennsylvania examined cooling techniques and found that voluntary head dunks were the most effective in quickly cooling dogs and preventing overheating or heat stroke.

When teaching a head dunk, the behavior should be voluntary and never forced. Creating a low-stress environment encourages engagement. Watch for subtle signs of stress, such as lip licking, shaking off, yawning, or scratching their neck, as these may indicate your dog is feeling uneasy. If your dog shows signs of stress, walks away, or stops engaging, stop the session. This may not be the right game for your dog.

Playing the Game

Introducing new, potentially challenging skills can be made easier using Pattern Games, which provide a predictable framework to help your dog understand what is happening and what to expect next. An adapted version of the Superbowls pattern game works well. 

Items Needed:

  • Seven target mats or plastic bowls
  • One snuffle mat
  • A clear bowl large enough to hold water deep enough for your dog’s head
  • A water pitcher
  • Treats that sink in water

A black dog with a red, white and blue snuffle mat

A snuffle mat. Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHC-S

Phase 1: Create the Superbowls pattern: 

  1. Arrange seven target mats in a straight line, spaced one to two feet apart. The 6th target should be a snuffle mat. If you do not have target mats, plastic bowls can work.
  2. Begin at the start of the line, before the first target. Practice three to five repetitions of the Up Down game to create a steady rhythm. Place a treat on the floor near your feet and stand up straight in a neutral position with your hands flat on your stomach or behind your back to minimize distraction. When your dog makes eye contact, mark with a clicker or “yes” and place a treat on the floor. If your dog struggles with eye contact, hold a treat near your eyes for one or two repetitions, then gradually reduce this lure as they start to make eye contact on their own.
  3. Once your dog is making eye contact consistently, step to the first target and place a treat on it. Stand up in a neutral position. When your dog makes eye contact, mark it and move to the next target, placing a treat on it. Continue this process down the line.
  4. When you arrive at the snuffle mat (target six), place two to three treats inside it. Once your dog finishes the treats and makes eye contact, mark the behavior and proceed to the final target in the row. To signal the end of the game, throw a few treats away from the line for your dog to chase.  

Phase 2: Introduce the empty bowl:

  1. Place the 5th target inside an empty bowl, then return it to its position on the line.
  2. Follow steps 2 through 4 in Phase 1. When you reach the 5th target in the bowl, place the treat on the target inside the bowl. Continue to the snuffle mat and finish the sequence as before. 

Phase 3: Add water to the bowl:

  1. Once your dog is familiar with the pattern, add a splash of water to the bottom of the bowl, just enough that it feels wet. Let your dog see you add the water.
  2. Start at the first target and repeat the process, moving through the stations as before.
  3. Each time, add a little more water to the bowl and observe your dog’s response. If they seem stressed, reduce the water level to make it less overwhelming.
  4. If your dog willingly takes the treat from the container of water, gradually add about half an inch of water to the bowl each training session. This slow adjustment will help build your dog’s confidence until they are willing to dunk their entire face into the water, including their eyes.  
  5. If your dog refuses to put their face in the bowl with water after they make eye contact, move on to the snuffle mat. If your dog continually refuses, consult a qualified behavior professional to determine if this game is suitable.

A black dog stands on a circular-shaped blue mat

Target mats can represent stations in the Superbowls line. Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHC-S

Phase 4: Remove the target line:

  1. Once your dog is comfortable dunking their head, remove the line of targets, leaving only the bowl and the snuffle mat.
  2. Position your dog next to the bowl and drop a treat inside. If your dog dunks their head to retrieve the treat, wait until they lift their head out of the water, then mark the behavior and reward them with two to three treats in the snuffle mat. If your dog hesitates, return to practicing with the target line. Once they are comfortable again, remove the target line and practice using the bowl and the snuffle mat.

Phase 5: Introduce the cue:  

  1. Drop the treat into the bowl. As your dog dips their head into the water, say “dunk” (or your chosen cue) and mark the behavior. Reward with two to three treats in the snuffle mat.
  2. When your dog reliably dunks their head three to five times, remove the target from the bowl and practice a few times over several days. Limit the number of dunks to three or four per session.
  3. Once your dog is familiar with the cue, ask them to dunk their head without placing a treat in the bowl. Say “dunk”, wait for your dog to dunk their head, and then reward with treats in the snuffle mat.
  4. If your dog does not respond to the cue, return to the earlier steps and repeat until they are comfortable dunking on cue.

Practice Makes Perfect

Once the behavior is learned, practice in different locations around the house and yard. You may need to reintroduce a few targets or use an empty bowl again. Eventually, you can use the bathtub, a kiddie pool, or even a clean stream or other cooling source.

Tips to Reduce Backyard Barking

November 14, 2024Ask LSH Dogs Shelter Worker Trainer

Photo of a white dog walking toward a chain-link fence with black barrier across

Image courtesy Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

Q:  My dog spends all his time in the yard, seemingly barking at nothing. This can’t be good for him, and it’s upsetting my neighbors. What can I do?

A:  Consider the causes of your dog’s barking. Are they triggered by neighbors, cars, passing dogs, wildlife, or smells? Maybe they are barking due to physical discomfort, such as pain from playing or standing outside. It may be raining or too hot, and they want to go back in. Your dog tries to communicate their feelings, so do not ignore the barking. Barking can be a self-reinforcing activity unless you interrupt the cycle.

Reduce visual and audible triggers when possible. Installing a solid fence set back from the road helps eliminate seeing passersby and creates distance from road sounds. Fence fabric for chain link fences or deck railings is a cheap and easy solution. Outdoor speakers could be placed along the fence at your dog’s height or ground level with calming music or talk radio playing softly.

In addition to blocking visual triggers, set up your dog’s play area away from the fence line. Provide a variety of enrichment such as a kiddie pool, dig box, agility equipment, a tug or tetherball setup. Some dogs are happy to entertain themselves, while others prefer your company.

Cream-colored dog playing with rope on a pole on green grass

Image courtesy Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

Consider rest time for them as well. Use food puzzle toys to promote relaxation as a break from physical play. If they have a known mat relaxation behavior, set up a cot or mat outside for them in a quiet, protected area of the yard. If possible, provide multiple resting areas: one in a shady area of the grass and another near you. Always offer access to fresh water and remove any objects that collect standing water. Keep the water bowl by the door to the house so it reinforces leaving the fence to return.

Tri-colored dog with green lick mat on a deck

Image courtesy Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

Training can be both enriching as well as task-oriented. Teach your dog to nose target and have them run to touch your hand, bringing them away from the fence. You can then toss a treat through the doorway into the house to reinforce coming inside. Teach your dog to turn away from the fence and triggers beyond by using Pattern Games such as Give Me a Break and 1-2-3.

Brown and grey dog lies on a white and grey mat on a deck

Image courtesy Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

Even with management in place and training and behavior modification exercises, intervention is needed for repeated barking. Bring them inside and only let them out during quiet times of the day to avoid overstimulation. When they are outside, stay with them to keep them engaged and distracted. Reducing or eliminating barking may decrease your dog’s stress level, as well as yours and your neighbors.

Pattern Games – A New Way to Help Change Behavior

Brown dog plays with a red white and blue toy

Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHS-C

Pattern Games are activities that help dogs learn specific skills. Some games help your dog move from point to point, some help your dog to relax, and others teach them to notice things around them. The main goal of Pattern Games is to help your dog process their environment and give them a set of behaviors to follow. This can be very helpful for dogs who get overstimulated, anxious or have trouble focusing in difficult situations. These games can also help your dog process new or exciting things, such as other dogs, cats, delivery trucks, or kids. Pattern Games also build confidence by giving your dog a chance to succeed in areas where they may have struggled before. One of the best resource on Pattern Games is Leslie McDevitt’s Control Unleashed book series.

You can teach Pattern Games almost anywhere, but it is best to start in a quiet, distraction-free space, especially if the caregiver is also learning. Start somewhere familiar where your dog feels relaxed and comfortable. Accepting treats shows that your dog is comfortable and engaged. Eating is part of the game and a behavior of its own. For example, licking peanut butter off a lick mat can be soothing as well as reinforcing the game. When learning Pattern Games, your dog should have the freedom to “opt-in” or “opt-out.” The game should be something your dog does voluntarily. Most games do not require cues, but you can use a word or click to mark a certain behavior.

  • A cue is a word that tells your dog what to do, such as “sit.”
  • A marker word is a signal, like saying “yes” or using a clicker, that lets your dog know they have performed the desired behavior and that reinforcement is coming.
  • A reinforcement is something your dog loves, such as a treat or toy.

Choosing the Right Pattern Games

Think about what your dog needs help with to find the right Pattern Games. Start foundation skills with games such as Take a Breath (TAB) and default behaviors like sit or mat work. These basic skills can be used in other games and are a great way to introduce this type of learning to your dog. If you need to improve engagement with your dog, try the Whiplash Turn game. This game helps strengthen your dog’s response to your name and their focus on you, even when there are distractions.

Photo image of a black and grey dog siting on a mat

Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHS-C

Opting-In and Opting-Out

Opting-in means that your dog is ready to play the game. If your dog is showing the behavior you want in the game, they are opting in, and you can mark and reward them. If your dog is opting-out during certain situations, it might mean they are overwhelmed and need to work in a quieter place or further away from the trigger.

Opting-out means the game is over. It is important to give your dog a way to opt-out of the game to avoid frustration. You can set up an opt-out station like a snuffle mat, lick mat, or crate (if your dog likes crates). If your dog stops playing, offers different behaviors than what you are asking for, or shows signs of stress such as scratching, shaking off, or lip licking, they can go to the opt-out station. This is a good way to reset or end the training session.

Look At That – A Game That Changed Everything

Look At That is a popular pattern game from the book Control Unleashed. This game:

  • offers a new way to address reactivity in dogs;
  • build engagement with your dog;
  • helps your dog process their environment;
  • encourages big behavior changes in reactive dogs;
  • strengthens communication between you and your dog and;
  • allows your dog to calmly process scary things.

In Look At That, you ask your dog a question, “Where is the [x]?” and mark when your dog looks at the object. Asking about their environment instead of giving a cue is part of the opt-in/opt-out sequence of behavior that helps an anxious dog feel more secure. It shows your dog they will not be asked to do anything that makes them feel unsafe.

Photo image of a handler holding the chin of a brown and white dog

Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut, CDBC, CCUI, CPDT-KA, LSHS-C

Other Pattern Games

There are several pattern games that can help move your dog from one place to another. One example is the 1-2-3 Game. In this game, after you say “1-2-3”, reward your dog. This pattern helps your distracted dog focus and encourages them to walk with you. This game is useful in shelters to move dogs from their kennel to the outside play yards or in veterinary hospitals to get dogs from the parking lot to inside, or from a kennel to the exam room, or onto a scale.

Some games need little to no training before you can play, such as Give Me a Break [GMAB]. Place a treat on the ground, turn your back, and sit in a chair. When your dog comes back to you, get up and place another treat on the ground near where the first one was located. This then gives your dog choice and control while helping them get used to the environment. It also teaches your dog to follow along when you turn your back and introduces a predictable reward. Expand on the basic chair version of GMAB by moving around the room.

Pattern games build a stronger bond and address your dog’s challenges. The games build relationships, help your dog feel more comfortable in their environment, improve communication, and establish new patterns of behavior.

 

The Up Down Game

The Up Down game is a simple pattern game that uses two behaviors to help keep your dog focused. You can play it almost everywhere to keep your dog engaged. To create a pattern your dog recognizes, you should do at least five repetitions each time you play the game.

You will need:

    • Treats your dog likes
    • A clicker (optional)

STEPS:

  1. Hold a treat up to get your dog to make eye contact.  
  2. When your dog looks at the treat, place it on the ground between your feet.
  3. Repeat this one to two times.
  4. When your dog finishes eating, wait for them to make eye contact again. This time, do not hold the treat up; have it ready in your pocket or behind your back.
  5. When your dog makes eye contact with you, use a word like “yes” or a clicker to mark the behavior
  6. Place the treat on the ground between your feet again.
  7. Repeat this at least five times.
  8. To make the game more challenging, have a friend walk around as a distraction. They can start by just walking, then create more distractions by moving closer or talking to you.
  9. Keep playing by giving your dog a treat every time they look at you and make eye contact. Do not try to get their attention; instead, reward them when they choose to look at you.
  10. Try playing the game in more distracting environments, such as your yard or local park.

A black cocker spaniel waits patiently and looks up at their caretaker

Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut

Black cocker spaniel takes a treat from caretakers hand

Image courtesy of Hannah Brehaut

Tips if your dog is struggling:

  • If your dog has a hard time taking the treat from between your feet, place it closer to them. Make sure you put it in the same spot every time to make the game predictable.
  • You can play the Up Down game in many places, but start at home, where your dog feels safe. Once your dog can play the game well at home, you can add more distractions, such as family members.
  • Your dog should choose to play this game. Do not force, bribe, or lure them. Wait for them to make eye contact, then reward them. If your dog does not want to play, gets too distracted, overexcited, or reacts to the environment, try playing in a quieter place where they feel more comfortable and safe.    

Pattern games are a way for your dog to learn what to expect. These games can be found in the book series Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt CDBC, CPDT-KA, MLA. She also has an instructor certification program.

The Weight Can Wait

Cream and white Australian Shepherd taking treats from a snuffle mat placed on a veterinary scale

Q: My dog is afraid of getting weighed when he goes in for his annual exam. What can I do?

A: Many dogs are anxious and fearful when asked to get up on the scale, often the first thing they are asked to do in the veterinary office. Whether it is the scale’s location, the activities happening nearby, or the scale itself, there are several ways to avoid causing this initial stress, allowing for a more relaxed appointment overall.

If your dog refuses to get on the scale, do not force them. Forcing a dog to interact with an object that frightens them creates unnecessary stress, escalates their fear, anxiety, and stress, and worsens their aversion to the scale in the future. Rough estimates of your dog’s weight can be made to provide prompt medical care.

If your dog is hesitant about the scale, try luring them with a treat trail or scatter, a lickable mat with peanut butter or cheese, or a favorite toy. If the scale is in a corner and can be moved, suggest moving it to the middle of the room to allow your dog to move freely around it. Metal scales are slippery and shiny, often causing dogs to scramble, so placing a bath mat, a yoga mat, or a blanket over the scale can help make it seem less novel and provide better traction.

Use patterns to ask your dog to put “paws up” or use targeting to move the dog closer to the scale. Some dogs may follow their person onto the scale, allowing veterinary staff to weigh both and subtract the person’s weight. There are many ways to build engagement and trust to obtain an accurate weight for your dog, but struggling to force them onto the scale is not one of them.

Preparing Pets for the Holidays

Photo of three black dogs, each wearing holiday hats

Set realistic expectations and make plans ahead of time for pets during the holidays. Images courtesy of Laura Ansel, DVM

As the end of the year approaches, many people begin preparing for holiday celebrations with family and friends. The season often brings busy schedules, parties, and plenty of planning. When making holiday plans, do not forget about your pets. Hectic schedules can make it harder to give them the exercise and play they are used to. Parties can be stressful for pets with new visitors, loud noises, and increased activity. Changes in routine, such as kids being home from school or evening holiday gatherings, can also be confusing and overwhelming.

How to Plan Ahead for Pets During the Holidays

  • Set up a quiet space where your pet can escape parties, visitors, and loud noises like fireworks. Provide enrichment such as chew toys, food puzzles, calming music, or white noise to help them relax. 
  • Ensure your pet has proper identification, such as a collar with tags or a microchip. Many pets get lost during holiday travel or when visitors come and go.
  • If you are traveling and your pet is not joining you, reserve a boarding space or book a pet sitter well in advance. Visit the facility or introduce the sitter to your pets before your trip.
  • If your pet is traveling with you, book pet-friendly accommodations. Bring familiar items to help your pet feel comfortable.
  • When traveling, pack enough food and medications for your pet. If you are worried about how travel or holiday stress will affect your pet, talk to your veterinarian about possible medications or supplements. 

Holiday Decorations and Pet Safety

Many homes are extravagantly decorated during the holidays. These seasonal additions may pose some risks for pets.

White and brown dog on lawn in front of inflated Halloween lawn decoration

Dogs can find holiday decorations frightening at first but can overcome that fear with the right approach.
  • Yard decorations can be scary for pets, especially if they make noise or move. Avoid yard decorations, light displays, and crowded places if your pet seems stressed.
  • Cover wires that your pet can reach. Pets could get tangled in them or electrocuted if they chew on them.
  • Place toxic holiday plants, like holly, mistletoe, and poinsettias, out of reach.  
  • Keep holiday treats away from pets.  Foods like chocolate and macadamia nuts are toxic to pets, and many sweets contain xylitol, which is also toxic. Candy wrappers may cause harm if ingested.
  • Glass ornaments can be easily knocked over by pets, causing injury. Snow globe liquid may contain ethylene glycol, which is sweet-tasting but deadly to pets.
  • Cats love to play with shiny things like tinsel and ribbon. These can cause serious gastrointestinal issues if eaten.  

Brown weiner dog with red ribbon eats from a blue bowl placed on the floor

Food toys and puzzles can provide enrichment in your pet’s safe space. Images courtesy of Laura Ansel, DVM

Parties, Visitors, and Your Pets

Many pets feel nervous around strangers, so holiday gatherings can add stress. Even social pets can get overwhelmed with all the noise, people, and changes to their routine.

  • Make sure your pet has access to its safe space every day, not just when visitors arrive. This will help your pet get used to it and feel comfortable.
  • Discuss medications or supplements with your veterinarian to help your pet feel less stressed.
  • Have food puzzles or toys ready ahead of time so they are easy to give when your pet needs a distraction.  
  • Take care of your pet’s basic needs, like a bathroom break and feeding, before visitors arrive.
  • Confining near visitors may intensify your pet’s fear because they cannot move away. If your dog has not been conditioned to a crate, prepare a quiet room away from company.
  • If your pet is with you during the festivities, make sure they have the option to leave if they become overwhelmed.
  • Keep your pet away from food tables, trash cans, and alcohol. Fatty foods, chocolate, grapes or raisins, and animal bones can be harmful to them.
  • Do not bring your pet to fireworks displays. Even if your dog is not afraid of the noise, large crowds and smells can be overwhelming. Keep them in their safe haven with white noise and follow your veterinarian’s advice if they are on medications.   

Photo of a Christmas tree with wrapped gifts and three dogs wearing bandanas resting beneath resting

If costumes frighten your pet, bandanas may be a festive alternative. Images courtesy of Laura Ansel, DVM

Safe Ways to Include Pets in the Holidays

Pets are part of the family, so it is great to include them in holiday fun. Monitor their body language so they stay comfortable.

  • If you take holiday photos with your pets, do not force costumes on them.  
  • Take your dog for a walk with your guests instead of staying inside. Open spaces can help your dog feel more comfortable around people.
  • Making or buying holiday pet treats can become a fun tradition.
  • Treat your pet to a new bed, collar, or toy.
  • Hiding new items around the home for pets to find can be fun and rewarding.
  • Spend a cozy night watching holiday movies with your pet. Enjoy the snuggling and downtime.

Plan ahead and consider your pet’s needs to help make the holiday season safe and enjoyable for everyone.