Sit or Down in the Presence of Triggers

August 15, 2024Ask LSH Pet Owner Shelter Worker Trainer

Woman showing fear at a large spider in front of her on a blue towel

Q: My trainer told me to put my dog in a sit or down when other dogs pass by on walks. But she tries to climb behind me or run away when I do this. What should I do?

A: Putting your anxious dog in a sit or down near their triggers is like ordering someone afraid of spiders to sit near one. Taking away your dog’s choice and control to move to safety can worsen their internal conflict. This is a flooding method and can intensify their fear and insecurity of those triggers.

Foundation skills such as voluntary eye contact and nose targeting can keep your dog engaged if these are known behaviors. Cueing other skills your dog enjoys, such as spin, feet up, or weave, can be used either independently or as part of a behavior chain, a sequence of known behaviors. Your dog’s favorite tricks can help create a positive, conditioned emotional response to approaching triggers.

Woman and dog on leash walking down a city street

If the triggers approach too closely, move your dog to a safer distance to keep your dog from reacting if possible. Use high-value treats or favorite toys to distract, redirect, or move further away. Sticky foods, such as canned cheese or pouches of peanut butter or baby food, encourage licking which may also help keep your dog more engaged and promote relaxation in the moment. Cue your dog again for a fun behavior when you have moved away from the trigger, and keep your tone jolly.

Woman and dog on leash standing near a train car

Always reinforce desirable behaviors and ask for alternatives to undesirable ones. Avoid walking your dog in situations where they are uncomfortable until you are both ready. A short, high-quality walk is more important than a long, poor one. If you need help, contact a certified trainer and consult with your veterinarian or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist.

Redefining Low Stress Handling®

Low Stress Handling® was created by Sophia Yin, DVM, CAAB, MS, to improve animal welfare. This method uses research-based skills and techniques focused on ten main principles to lower stress in animals when they are being handled. The ideas are not just guidelines but are also the basis for other animal care certification programs. By focusing on reducing stress, Low Stress Handling® makes interactions between animals and humans safer and more enjoyable for everyone.

The Impact of Fear Conditioning

Many dogs and cats feel scared, anxious, and stressed when they visit the veterinarian, which makes it harder to diagnose and treat them. These feelings can cause animals to resist handling, which creates safety risks for the animals, veterinary team, and caregivers. Scared or anxious animals might act unpredictably, possibly leading to injuries. Stress can also affect the pet’s heart rate, breathing, and temperature, making it hard to tell if they are stressed or actually sick. Low Stress Handling® techniques reduce these protective emotions. These methods help keep animals safe and improve the work life of veterinary professionals by focusing on the mental well-being of both animals and humans.

Strategies for Managing Stress in Animals 

Managing animal stress requires a careful and methodical approach to protect their well-being during veterinary visits or procedures. First, check each animal’s emotional state whenever they are handled or moved around the hospital. Make a personalized Low Stress Handling® plan and add it to their medical record. This plan should be customized for the pet to improve their experience and reduce feelings of fear and anxiety. Include clear descriptions of the pet’s behavior without labeling such as feisty, angry, or spiteful. Writing down this plan helps the veterinary team improve care, making sure animals are handled humanely at every visit.

Preparing for the Visit

Preparing for a veterinary visit starts long before reaching the hospital and involves several key steps to reduce stress for the pet. First, car ride anxiety should be addressed. This might involve practice rides or using calming products like synthetic pheromones or anti-nausea medications to make the pet feel more comfortable. Using the right gear, such as a well-fitted harness and leash for dogs or secure and comfortable cat carriers, keeps the animal safe and contained during transport. Carriers should be both accessible and secure to prevent escape attempts and injuries. Bringing a familiar mat or bed can help the pet feel safe and comfortable in a new place. High-value treats can be used to reward calm behavior and to distract from stressful procedures, helping create a positive experience at the veterinary hospital.

The Exam Room Experience

 Images courtesy of Dësiree R. Broach, DVM, MS, DACVB

Make the exam room experience less scary by understanding body language and what it reveals about a pet’s feelings. Veterinary professionals can use the Low Stress Handling® algorithm, adjusting it to fit each animal’s needs. Offer treats to reduce stress, making exams and treatments easier for pets. Team members should talk with caregivers, addressing their concerns and advising against using anything that might be aversive. Turn scary things like muzzles into positive experiences with treats. Observe body language closely during the visit to allow the veterinary team to change their approach based on the animal’s comfort level. This includes using different holds that provide security without causing fear or pain. Avoid any restraints that could harm or stress the pet.

Flexibility and Adaptability

Flexibility and adaptability minimize stress and keep pets safe and comfortable. Use lures, such as treats and toys, to encourage movement, reducing the need for physical handling and the stress it causes. When lifting is necessary, support the pet properly to prevent discomfort or injury. Perform examinations and treatments in comfortable positions for each animal to help keep them relaxed and allow the veterinary team to work more efficiently. Different types of holds can provide security and comfort so the animal feels safe. Customize techniques to each pet’s needs for a smooth and low-stress visit.

Sedation and Medication Strategies

Medications and sedatives reduce stress and protect animal welfare. Choose sedation instead of physical restraints, such as scruffing or stretching, providing a gentler and less stressful option. Simple techniques, like a warm, loosely wrapped pheromone-infused towel, offer security without harsh handling. Administer pre-visit medication at home and sedation upon arrival to decrease the pet’s anxiety. The “Ninja Sedation” method (canine) (feline) allows a hands-off approach to giving sedatives with little to no physical contact.            

Prevention and Intervention Visits and Cooperative Care

Prevention visits aim to prevent fear, while intervention visits help treat fear once it has developed. Cooperative care gives animals the opportunity to ‘opt-in’ or ‘opt-out’, maintaining their freedom to make choices and become active participants in their own medical care and procedures. These methods lead to more thorough physical examinations and diagnostics, allowing veterinarians to identify health issues more effectively.

Conclusion

Adopting Low Stress Handling® techniques greatly improves veterinary care by building trust and reducing stress for both animals and their caregivers. Veterinary visits can be less stressful and more effective with a comprehensive approach, promoting a positive experience for everyone involved by prioritizing animal welfare and emotional well-being.

The Importance of Play in Cats

Tiger kitty plays with a feather toy

All cats, no matter their age, benefit from consistent interactive play sessions with you. When you play tug or fetch with a dog, playtime is a social activity where you play together. However, for your cat, playtime is less of a social activity and more of a simulated hunting experience. Cats in the wild are ambush predators that spend about 80% of their awake time outdoors hunting for food. Without the opportunity to practice this normal, natural behavior, cats can develop behavior problems.

When Should I Play With My Cat?

If you can, play with your cat twice a day. Morning and evenings are best since that is when cats are naturally more active. If possible, you will want to play before mealtimes so that your cat gets to catch and eat his prey at the end of the play session. Try to play at the same time each day, as predictability helps your cat know when it is time to play and when to rest.

How Long Should Play Sessions Be?

Each play session should be about 10-15 minutes long. Avoid playing with your cat for longer than 15 minutes at a time. Cats are sprinters, not marathon runners. Longer play sessions may result in cats becoming overstimulated or overaroused, and it may be more difficult to wind them down afterward. Think of these play sessions as five 2-minute sessions rather than a straight 10 minutes if you struggle to find time and energy in your day for play.

Photo image of tiger kitty with feather toy in their mouth

Tips for Play:

• Alternate speed of movement. Are you going too fast? Too slow?
• Move the toy away from your cat. Prey does not run up to the predator.
• Move the toy under or behind something. Let it go just out of view. They will not be able to resist.
• Appeal to other senses. Try scented toys, toys that make noise, or toys with different textures.
• Recognize that cats will have different play styles. Play does not have to be running and jumping. It can be stalking, batting, following, watching, etc.
• Your cat is nature’s tiny killing machine. Let them kill the toy.
• Wind the play down. Use the last few minutes of playtime to let your cat wind down. Start to move the toy more slowly so your cat does more watching and stalking than actively chasing. Let the toy gradually “die,” just like real prey.
• Laser Pointers. Laser pointers can be frustrating for some cats since it is a game that your cat can never win. If you use a laser pointer, point it at physical toys that they can sink their claws into, or start playing with the laser and end with a physical toy or food.
• Rotate Toys. Toys that sit out all the time start to look like “dead prey” and are not very interesting to a cat. Rotate toys by putting some away and swapping them out regularly. This makes toys seem like new and keeps cats interested longer.

Understanding and promoting play in cats ensures their happiness, overall health, and well-being. Play nurtures the human-animal bond and allows cats to express their innate behaviors in a safe, stimulating environment. It is never too late to introduce play into a cat’s routine, and even older cats can benefit from regularly scheduled playtime.

Electric Fences

White dog sitting on green grass, in front of wire fencing

Q: I recently moved to a rural area and would like my dogs to run free on my three acres. Is an electric fence a good way to keep them close to home?

A: Electric and invisible fences are a popular method of containment for dogs as an alternative to a physical chain link or privacy fence. They can be cheaper and portable, avoid unappealing fencing, comply with homeowner association rules, and make mowing easier.

Invisible fences can be commercially installed or done by the homeowner. They may be underground or plug-in with a fixed radius. Some are above-ground electric wires attached to wooden fence posts, often seen on cattle farms.

Your dog is trained to recognize a series of flags placed inside the invisible fence line. Your dog is fitted with a collar with adjustable levels of sound, vibration, and shock. If your dog approaches the flags, their collar may give a warning beep, a vibration, or a low-level shock. If your dog passes these flags, the collar emits a strong shock. The shock is intended as a correction to keep your dog from passing the flags and to stay within the property.

Supporters of electric fences state that pain from the shock is temporary and causes no long-term damage. Punishment is defined by your dog and may vary among dogs. Some dogs are more sensitive than others; a dog that is afraid of smoke alarms may be terrified of a beeping collar. Lack of physical harm does not necessarily mean your pet is not experiencing emotional or behavioral damage.

Photo of a brown and white dog running with a ball in their mouth across a green lawn

Potential drawbacks of using an electric fence:

  • The collar battery or skin contacts may be inconsistent or unreliable.
  • Dogs may break through the electric barrier to chase after a squirrel; for example, they may be afraid to pass through the line again to return home because they do not want to receive another punishment.  
  • This “barrier” does not stop wildlife, other dogs, and people from entering your dog’s space.
  • Environmental influences such as deep snow, landscaping, trees, or electronic devices may interfere with the fence signals.
  • The unpredictability of shocks can increase fear and stress. This may cause your dog to:
    • fear going outside; 
    • react more strongly to passing walkers, dogs, and cars since they perceive them as the cause of the shock;
    • redirect aggression toward your children or other dogs if your dog is corrected.

There are much safer methods for keeping your dog on your property, such as: 

  • cattle wire panels, chain link, or privacy fences;
  • runs;
  • a tie out attached to a harness as long as you are supervising your dog;
  • barrier training using positive reinforcement.

Top 10 Myths About Canine Behavior

An adult border collie stands with a border collie puppy as they look out on a river

Let your puppy explore the world with known vaccinated dogs in safe areas. Image courtesy of Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

1. Puppies should not leave the house until they are fully vaccinated.

The critical socialization period for puppies occurs from about three weeks to 14 weeks of age. This is a time in a dog’s life when they learn what is safe in their environment. They are also learning “doggie” social skills and what it means to live in the human world. Vaccinations are administered every three to four weeks until at least 15-16 weeks of age, which marks the end of this critical timeframe. If you wait until your puppy has received all vaccinations before exposing them to the world, your puppy may become more fearful as an adult and lack the necessary coping skills to live in the human world.

2. If your puppy has an accident in the house, rub their nose in it.

Housetraining is a process. Young puppies need to eliminate frequently, especially when they are active and playing. Never punish your puppy for having an “accident” in the house. Punishment only teaches your puppy that it is unsafe to eliminate in front of you. They do not instinctively understand that eliminating the inside is “bad” and the outside is “good”. It is your responsibility to guide them, supervise their actions, and reward them when they choose to eliminate outside.

3.  My dog is afraid because they were abused.

See Myth #1. If your dog cowers and flinches every time you raise your voice or give the “you should know better” stare, chances are it was not abused but rather under-socialized. Genetics can also play a role in this behavior.

4.  My dog is angry at me and just being spiteful.

Dogs do not possess the same level of critical thinking skills as humans. Dogs think in the moment, similar to how a toddler might. For dogs, it is not about long-term consequences, and they do not stay awake at night plotting their next move. Their actions are based on what works for them in the moment. Behaviors that caregivers may interpret as anger or spite are often motivated by anxiety, frustration, and fear instead.

5.  My dog is jealous.

Just as with anger and spite, dogs do not experience jealousy, at least not to the level that humans do. Once again, it is more about the immediate moment and other basic emotions driving behavior rather than an ulterior motivation such as jealousy.

Photo of a Jack Russel demonstrating the "hump" behavior, perceved as showing dominance, over a brown dog

Dominance theory has been debunked. Humping is a sign of overstimulation or social anxiety. Image courtesy of CDP

6.  My dog is being dominant. I must show him who is Alpha.

Dominance in dogs has been debunked.  The term “alpha” came from a study based on wolf behavior and is no longer used. Comparing dogs to wolves can often be misleading. Humans have significantly altered both the appearance and behavior of domesticated dogs. However, wolves do not adhere to an “alpha” structure; instead, they form a family unit that lives and hunts together, comprising a breeding pair (commonly referred to as mom and dad) and their offspring, which may include members from current and previous litters. The size of the pack varies depending on the availability of food in the area. Most conflicts are resolved without fighting to prevent injuries. If dogs are fighting or showing aggression, it is often due to social anxiety, not a desire to dominate. They act out because they do not feel safe.

Photo of three attentive dogs watching their handler

The learning process is universal for all animals, regardless of breed. Image courtesy of Pat Koven, BA, LVT, KPACTP, LSHC-S

7.  Certain breeds learn differently than other dogs.

The process of learning is universal among animals. They learn through making associations and experiencing consequences as they interact with their environment. It is incorrect to label dogs, or certain breeds, as stubborn. Often, the issue lies with the human handler. Utilizing food as lures without providing reinforcements quickly enough or in the appropriate manner can lead to misunderstandings. It may seem as though your dog is stubborn when, in reality, the instructions provided are not clear or timely.

Photo of four eager and attentive dogs watching their handler

Image courtesy of CDP

8.  Shock collars and prong collars don’t hurt if you use them properly.

Some trainers advocate using “all the tools in your toolbox”, suggesting that you need to “correct” your dog when they make mistakes to teach them what they did was wrong. While it is true that these tools can be effective in the right hands, they are not necessary. The potential for negative side effects often outweighs the benefits. Research has shown that dogs can learn just as fast, if not faster, through positive reinforcement techniques rather than positive punishment and using aversive tools. Positive punishment involves adding something undesirable (like shock or pain) to stop a behavior.

9.  My dog tried to bite me; I should contact a trainer.

Behavior issues can be complex, stemming from underlying medical conditions, emotional problems, or mental health issues. Therefore, it is advisable to start with a thorough examination by your veterinarian if your dog exhibits behavioral issues. In some cases, the next step might be to consult a veterinary behaviorist before considering a trainer. Contacting a trainer can be beneficial for teaching basic behaviors like sit, come, and walk nicely on a leash, but may not always be the best first step for addressing behavior problems.

Photo of a black and white dog showing his teeth

Never punish a growl. Your dog is trying to communicate discomfort. Image courtesy of CDP

10.  My dog growled at me. I need to punish the growl.

One of the most important behaviors to reinforce rather than punish in dogs is growling. Growling serves as information, signaling that a dog feels uncomfortable in a situation. It is not an act of aggression but a form of communication. Address growling constructively by identifying and avoiding the actions that trigger it. Punishing a growl risks suppressing this warning signal, potentially leading to a bite without any preceding warning.

How to Play Tug Safely

Puppies require many outlets for chewing and biting behavior. When done safely, tug can be a great game to engage your puppy.

Handler places first tug toy in front of puppy

Image courtesy of Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Playing with two tug toys of the same value works best. Tug with one toy, and then, after a few seconds, release the other toy and allow your puppy to have it.

Handler holds first tug toy in front of puppy and second toy is in other hand

Image courtesy of Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Pick up the second tug to entice your puppy to drop the one they are playing with and tug the new toy.

Puppy plays with one tug toy while handler holds another

Image courtesy Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Pick up the toy your puppy dropped and repeat.

Handler shows puppy alternate tug toy

Image courtesy Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Going back and forth playing tug this way not only prevents your puppy from redirecting their energy and excitement toward you, but also teaches to drop items.

This behavior is reinforced with continued play.

If your puppy has difficulty switching toys, you can always toss a few treats on the ground to get them to release.