Training Your Pet To Cooperate With Ear And Eye Medications

Once your pet understands that their treatment station is a place where good things happen and they are comfortable communicating a desire to stay or a need to leave, it is time to start using the station to teach your pet about treatments.

Medicating and cleaning ears and eyes are procedures that many pets will need at some point in their lives. While it is beneficial to start with a young pet or one that has never experienced these treatments before, you can work with a pet that has. If possible, teach these skills when your pet does not have an active medical concern requiring treatment. If they are being treated, you can use the same steps, just monitor your pet’s body language.

Person introducing medication bottle to pet

Show your pet what you are doing so they have the chance to opt-out. The eye drop bottle is presented, followed by a reward. This cat is shown the bottle containing eye drops and given space and time to understand what is going on. Image courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Before beginning, you will need:

  • Treats your pet really likes.
  • The ear or eye medications you are working with and any other necessary supplies (e.g., cotton for wiping out ears after cleaning).
  • If your pet is not currently being treated for an active condition, ask your veterinary team if there are safe products you can use for training (you can still go through most of the skills with closed bottles).
  • A container of warm water to warm up ear treatments (consult with your veterinary team to ensure the product can be gently warmed).

Ear and eye treatments follow a similar approach but may vary based on your pet’s learning history and any other conditions they may have.

  • Set up your treatment station with everything you need before calling your pet over. Be honest, and don’t hide any part of the process. 
  • Ask your pet to come to the station and reward them when they do.
  • Using food as a distraction during training is acceptable as long as your pet is aware of the procedure and has the option to leave and still receive their reward.
  • Remember your pet can opt-out at any time and pay them appropriately if they choose to leave. This is particularly important if your pet has had a difficult experience in the past. Avoid coercion or putting your pet in a situation of motivational conflict where they must make a choice between discomfort and wanting the reward.
  • When your pet is comfortably positioned at their station, show them the treatment bottle and reward them. If they show any sign of anxiety, toss the reward away from the station to allow them to retrieve it. When they return, start with the bottle a little further away.
  • When your pet is comfortable with the sight of the bottle, ensure they are comfortable with handling around the ear or eye (including bending into your pet’s space). Without the bottle in your hand, gently touch the area, then reward. If they show discomfort, still give a reward, but do not proceed with touching. Always give the reward, even if they say no.
  • Once your pet is comfortable with both the sight of the bottle in your hand and your touch, it is time to put it all together. Approach with the bottle as if you are going to administer it, get close without applying, stop, and reward. Monitor their reaction closely at every step. 
  • Once your pet is consistently comfortable with this approach, proceed with the treatment.

Woman in blue shirt administers ear medication to a black dog

When your pet is comfortable with all the steps leading up to applying ear medication, the actual medication administration does not have to be a fight. This dog is comfortable receiving his ear medication as he understands the process. Image courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Some Alternatives That May Be Helpful

  • For medium to large dogs, teach them to sit between your legs with their head raised, making administering eye medications easier.
  • Cats can lick a tasty food paste above their head continuously to make it easier to administer eye medications.
  • For ear cleaning, alternatively apply the ear cleaner to a clean cotton pad or gauze. Use the soaked cotton to gently clean inside the ear. Ask your veterinary team how deeply to clean safely.

Woman in blue shirt administers eye medication to a liver-and-white colored dog

A medium to large dog may be more comfortable receiving eye treatment from a trained position between your legs. Image courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

If your pet does not currently need treatment, completing all the training in one session is unnecessary. Allow for flexibility in the training schedule. You can have play breaks in between steps, especially if your pet seems more reluctant or resistant.  Break the session into smaller, manageable steps to help your pet succeed and to make the training process more effective and pleasant for both of you.

The Three-Term Contingency: The ABCs of Behavior

Understanding your pet’s behavior can be simplified into three main parts known as the ABC model: the Antecedent (what happens before a behavior), the Behavior (what your pet does), and the Consequence (what happens after the behavior). Based on Applied Behavior Analysis (ABA), this method helps you understand, predict, and modify your pet’s actions to improve communication and solve behavior problems.

The Trigger: Antecedent

The antecedent is the event or situation that occurs right before your pet’s behavior. It is like a trigger that sets off a specific reaction from your pet. This could be anything from you picking up their leash, indicating it is time for a walk, to external factors like another animal nearby or a sudden noise. Recognizing these triggers helps predict and better understand your pet’s actions.

The Action: Behavior

Behavior refers to what your pet does in response to the antecedent. It is the actual action you can see, such as sitting, jumping, or barking. Behaviors can be desirable (like sitting when asked) or undesirable (like jumping on the counter). The key is that behaviors are observable and measurable, giving insight into your pet’s needs and motivations.

The Result: Consequence

Consequences are the results that follow your pet’s actions. They shape behaviors by either increasing or decreasing their frequency. These outcomes help your pet learn what behaviors are beneficial and which are not. This influence can make a behavior more or less likely to occur again.

  • Positive vs. Negative: In this context, “positive” means adding something (like treats or playtime) to encourage a behavior. “Negative” means taking something away (like ignoring them) to discourage a behavior. It is important to note that “positive” and “negative” do not necessarily mean good or bad here.
  • Reinforcement and Punishment: These are the tools to change behavior. Reinforcement makes a behavior more likely to happen again, while punishment does the opposite. Adding something (positive reinforcement) or taking it away (negative reinforcement) can encourage a behavior. Adding a consequence to stop a behavior is positive punishment, and taking something away is negative punishment.
  • It is All About Perspective: What counts as reinforcement or punishment depends on how your pet feels about it, not what you might think. Each pet is unique, and what motivates one might not affect another the same way.

Applying the ABCs of Behavior

Example 1: Barking at the Doorbell

  1. Identify Antecedents: The doorbell ringing serves as the trigger that sets off your dog’s barking.
  2. Modify Behavior: Teach your dog to go to a specific spot (like their bed) and reward them for staying quiet when the doorbell rings. Start by teaching them to station on that spot. Then, practice with the doorbell sound. Use a remote treat dispenser to reward them from afar.
  3. Provide Appropriate Consequences: Reward your dog with treats for choosing to go to their spot and sitting quietly when the doorbell rings. If the barking continues, return to the previous step in which they were quiet. With practice, they should no longer bark when the doorbell rings.

Example 2: Jumping on Guests

  1. Identify Antecedents: The arrival of guests acts as the trigger for your dog’s jumping behavior.
  2. Modify Behavior: Teach your dog an alternative behavior, such as sitting to greet or staying in a specific area away from the door when guests arrive. Use training sessions to practice this behavior with friends pretending to be guests.
  3. Provide Appropriate Consequences: Reward your dog for sitting or staying in their spot when guests come. If they keep jumping, go back a step. Meanwhile, use a gate to keep them away from guests or put them in a quiet place until everyone’s settled. Then, let your dog join in. Keep doing this, and your dog will jump less over time.

Example 3: Digging in the Yard

  1. Identify Antecedents: Being left alone in the yard without supervision or engagement may trigger digging behavior.
  2. Modify Behavior: Change your dog’s behavior by giving them fun options like interactive toys or a special digging box. You can encourage them to use the box by hiding toys or burying treats inside it for them to discover.
  3. Provide Appropriate Consequences: Give your dog treats for using the digging box or playing with toys they find in the box. If they dig somewhere else, gently guide them to the digging box and then give them treats for choosing to dig there.

By understanding and applying the ABCs of behavior, you can improve communication with your dog, address behavioral issues more effectively, and work towards positive behavioral outcomes. Remember, patience and consistency are key; seeking help from a professional can offer additional support specific to your pet’s needs.

Confinement Training

fPuppy with lickable mat behind wooden baby gate

Photo courtesy Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, FFCP

Confining your dog to a crate can have its benefits, but crate training is not ideal for all dogs. In the past, it was thought that dogs preferred crates because of their “den-like” atmosphere; however, observations of free-ranging dogs show their preferences would vary from open fields to smaller, enclosed areas that were sometimes well-lit. Only pregnant females would seek out dens as a space to safely give birth and protect their young afterward. 

Confinement spaces should never be used for punishment. A puppy’s confinement space is their safe place. If used for punishment, confinement anxiety may occur.  

There are certain situations where crate training may be beneficial, such as: travel, veterinary settings, recovering from surgery, and dog sporting events. When introduced in a slow, purposeful, and positive manner, confinement spaces can provide a convenient and safe in-home retreat for your dog that is overwhelmed, fearful, anxious, or tired.

When choosing a crate, size, and set-up matter. Crates should be big enough for your puppy to move comfortably, stand up, turn around, and lie in a lateral position. Room for water and crate-safe food puzzle toys is recommended. Metal crates can be a great option since they have dividers to increase or decrease size. Your puppy may prefer a crate that is covered with a blanket or crate cover.

Drawing of a dog in an x-pen with toys and carrier

Photo courtesy Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, FFCP

Alternatively, an exercise pen (X-pen) or gated-off room gives puppies more space and can be a confinement area. A crate can also be placed inside an X-pen to give your puppy the option to enter the crate on their own terms. This setup can prevent situations where your puppy is placed in a crate before they are ready. This enclosed space should include an elimination area, feeding station, and toys to provide for your puppy’s basic needs. 

Few puppies are initially comfortable being crated, especially overnight. Dogs are social sleepers, and it can be very stressful for a puppy as they transition into their new home.  Separation from littermates can cause undue stress for puppies and if immediately expected to sleep in a crate, a negative association may occur. If a crate is used, either place the crate near your bed, gate the adjoining bathroom, or let your puppy sleep in your bed if they can get on and off the bed safely. Having your puppy sleep in the bed may or may not be a long-term solution, but it can help decrease stress for both of you while transitioning. Whatever the sleeping arrangement, you should be prepared to get up throughout the night to allow your puppy to eliminate.

Confinement training takes time and patience. Offer food puzzle toys throughout the day in the area to help your puppy make positive associations and reinforce independence. The “Crate Fairy” exercise is another to teach your puppy to associate their confinement space with good things. Place high-value treats in this space throughout the day when they are not watching. When they choose to enter their crate, they will be surprised with delicious treats.

Confinement Training Steps:

Training sessions should be two to five minutes long, once or twice daily. 

Phase 1: Getting comfortable.

  • Place treats close to and inside the space for three to five sessions. 
  • Once comfortable going in and out, wait for your puppy to enter, mark using a clicker or verbal marker such as “yes”, and toss a treat inside.
  • Once your puppy eats the treat, mark again and toss another treat out of the space. 
  • Wait until your puppy re-enters, then mark and treat in the space. 
  • Toss another treat outside the space so your puppy leaves, and repeat.

Phase 2: Closing the gate.

  •   A gate or crate door is preferred for this step of the process.
  •   When step 1 is repeatedly met with success, begin to close the gate/door.
  •   Mark and feed a few treats through the gate, let your puppy out, and repeat.

Phase 3: Add the cue.

  •   Over time, add the chosen cue, such as “crate”, as your puppy walks into the space.
  •   Close the gate/door, mark, and treat your puppy for being in the space with the gate closed.
  •   Slowly increase the amount of time in this space before marking and treating.

Phase 4: Increasing duration and distance

  •   Food puzzle toys or a remote treat dispenser can help increase duration and distance while building calm and relaxed behaviors in the space.

Cooperative Care in Veterinary Medicine

Woman holding clippers over shaggy white dog

Client introduces Doodle to the clippers. Photo courtesy of Jean Tomaselli, CVT, KPA CTP, VTS (Behavior)

Cooperative care training is the art of teaching animals how to take part in care routines rather than forcing them to comply. In veterinary medicine, the goal is to help pets feel safe during care and enjoy care routines; therefore, pets become more treatable in the future, not less. The practice of cooperative care also teaches veterinary staff, caregivers, and animal trainers how to communicate effectively with and support the emotional well-being of the individual pet based on that pet’s specific needs and progress. These concepts are core values of Low Stress Handling®.

Pets Can Participate in Their Own Care Routines

Teaching pets to take part in care routines should be prioritized over modifying the pet’s behavior for other reasons, such as obedience training.

Modern zoos care for animals, which are often massive, without resorting to physical restraint. Imagine a giraffe voluntarily stepping onto a giant platform to get weighed. Picture a tiger presenting his tail through a small window of an enclosure to have a blood sample taken. For so many reasons, it is not effective to repeatedly dart and fully anesthetize these cherished animals every time healthcare is needed. Veterinary teams can implement these sophisticated but userfriendly techniques by prioritizing Low Stress Handling®.

This is an exciting time in veterinary medicine. Practitioners certified in Low Stress Handling® are joining forces with clients, board-certified veterinary behaviorists, and trainers who use positive reinforcement methods. The collaborative goal is to strengthen the human-animal bond by implementing these powerful cooperative care techniques for the benefit of clients and patients.

When Pets Say “No” To Care Routines

Cats and dogs sometimes growl or hiss when the veterinarian walks into the room, cower during examinations, or try to flee at the site of a nail trimmer. Fear can escalate to a point where the pet refuses to allow veterinary personnel to touch them. Pets can become so fearful, resistant, and defensively aggressive when visiting the veterinarian that the staff runs out of options to provide care to these patients. These pets may then need to be referred to board-certified veterinary behaviorists.

It is also common for pets to become frightened during home care routines. One painful or scary experience, such as exposure to a loud set of clippers, a cleaning of a painful, infected ear, or an accidental clip of a toenail to the quick can result in a pet developing lasting memories of that event. Each animal experiences handling, restraint, and care in different ways. Sensitivity levels vary among pets, with some being more prone to stress and anxiety than others. These pets that show avoidance or resistance during care routines at home, in grooming salons, or at animal hospitals are exhibiting signs of anxiety, fear, or both.

Low Stress Handling® veterinary practitioners will do everything they can to provide a pleasurable experience during veterinary care. Your pet’s veterinarian may prescribe short-term, anti-anxiety medications before scheduled appointments. They may also make environmental modifications, such as bringing your pet into the exam room by skipping the busy lobby. The veterinary team will treat pets in the exam room (rather than “the back”) whenever possible. Low Stress Handling® practitioners will make sure clients are included in the decisions being made about the pet’s care. When caregivers understand their pet’s emotional state, it helps everyone make better decisions together. It is imperative to slow down and realize that continuing a procedure with a fearful pet makes the patient less treatable in the future. Realizing when pets are anxious or frightened is half the battle.

Woman placing clippers on fluffy white dog

Photo courtesy of Jean Tomaselli, CVT, KPA CTP, VTS (Behavior)

Woman holding clippers over the back of a fluffy white dog

Photo courtesy of Jean Tomaselli, CVT, KPA CTP, VTS (Behavior)

Cooperative Care Teaches Pets to Say “Yes” to Care Routines

Core Concepts in Cooperative Care:

Emotional health status and medication use. Before teaching cooperative care routines, a veterinarian should evaluate a pet’s physical and emotional health. Some patients are simply too anxious to learn. Medications can be helpful in creating a comfortable starting point by relieving the pet’s anxiety enough to allow them to participate and receive food for counterconditioning.

Veterinarians may prescribe medications to reduce overall anxiety or situational medications intended for use before stressful events, and sometimes both. Using multiple medications can help to avoid the sedating effects that may come with a larger dose of a single medication. Additionally, many pets may require short-term anesthesia for veterinary care or grooming until they can be successfully retrained through cooperative care routines.

Body Language. Each species of animal communicates with their own unique body language. Interpreting what pets are communicating with their body language does not come naturally to most people. Your Low Stress Handling® Certified veterinary practitioner can guide you to the appropriate professional who can help you interpret your pet’s body language. These professionals include board-certified veterinary behaviorists (DACVB), board-certified veterinary technician specialists in behavior (VTS), and progressive positive reinforcement trainers who have a close association with the veterinary behavior community. Trainers who use any form of punishment or recommend prong or shock collars, choke chains, etc., should be avoided. These techniques break down the human-animal bond and potentially intensify fear and fear aggression.

Prevention. Resilience conditioning is defined as supporting an individual’s ability to recover from stress. If young pets display sensitivity to being touched, during routine handling, it is time for intervention and changing the approach to improve their ability to recuperate from stress. Support and agency are core concepts in both resilience conditioning and cooperative care.

Low Stress Handling® veterinary practitioners have a crucial responsibility to support each patient’s resilience for future care events. This is achieved by providing predictability, social support, and agency during veterinary care. For example, kittens might lick baby food off a lick mat during procedures, puppies can be trained to stand on a platform for treats while undergoing a gentle examination, and any non-essential treatments should be postponed if a patient shows signs of being overwhelmed. Each time cooperative care routines are practiced with puppies and kittens, they start to remember that veterinary visits are safe and predictable.

Veterinarians and veterinary technicians are integral in preserving the human-animal bond (HAB). This bond can deteriorate when clients struggle to care for pets at home or when veterinary professionals cannot effectively treat patients who have become fearful or dangerous. A simple yet effective preventive measure is to continuously feed a puppy or kitten throughout their veterinary experience. This approach helps these young pets develop resilience and reduces fear in care contexts.

By gradually introducing pets of all ages to home and veterinary care routines and by pairing those routines with high-value food and other pleasant experiences, pets find pleasure in care procedures. When pets remember these experiences as enjoyable, they want to do those activities again.

Important Tip: The frequency of treats during cooperative care is continuous at first, 10 to 15 per minute. The treats should be pea-sized and delicious.

Targeting and Stationing. Targeting and stationing are valuable techniques for training animals to participate willingly in their care. Targeting involves training an animal to direct a specific body part, or their entire body, toward a designated point or object. This method can be applied to various animals and for different purposes. For instance, a parrot may be trained to target their wing into a person’s palm for feather inspection or a dog can be taught to touch their nose against a wall and stand still for a short veterinary examination.

The practice of targeting behaviors paired with positive reinforcement (e.g., food) for each repetition helps to make targeting and the target object safe and predictable for the animal. For example, if a dog is taught to target the inside of a basket muzzle with their nose, the muzzle becomes a familiar and non-threatening object. This principle can be extended to a variety of grooming and veterinary tools.

Stationing is a technique closely related to targeting and is particularly useful in teaching animals to stay at a specific location for an extended period. This concept is highly effective in various settings and for different species. For instance, a horse can learn to station themselves in a particular spot for voluntary grooming and veterinary care, eliminating the need for restraints like cross ties. Similarly, a dog can be taught to stand on a yoga mat for home care routines, and this mat can then be brought to the veterinary clinic to provide a familiar and comforting environment. Cats can be trained to jump onto a pedestal to receive oral medication, making the process smoother and less stressful for the cat and the caregiver.

Choice, control, and consent. In traditional pet care or treatment methods, animals often have no say in the process, which can be confusing and frightening for them as they do not understand the intentions behind these actions. However, modern techniques in animal care are changing this dynamic. These techniques involve communicating intentions to the animals and teaching them to express “yes” or “no” to their care.

This approach of allowing pets, zoo animals, wildlife, and livestock to consent to or deny their own care has shown surprising results. Contrary to the assumption that when given a choice, pets would say “no” all the time, the opposite is often true. The more we acknowledge their “no” the more they begin to say “yes”. They begin to engage in their care routine.

Start Buttons. Start buttons are an innovative concept in animal husbandry and a key element in cooperative care routines, emphasizing the importance of animal consent and autonomy. By observing and reinforcing animals with food as they display natural and comfortable behaviors, these behaviors can be encouraged and, therefore, more frequently offered. The concept is to teach the animal to present these behaviors as a signal to initiate a care routine, effectively giving them a “start button” communicating that they are ready to start their care routine.

This method is being applied across various species. For instance, horses can be taught to nod their heads to communicate you can start brushing them. Dogs can be trained to rest their chin on a towel to indicate readiness for home care and to lift their chin as a signal of discomfort or the need to stop.

When a pet stops offering their start button behavior, they are withdrawing their active participation in the care routine, communicating a “no” or “I need a break.” The more a caregiver acknowledges when a pet says “no”, the more comfortable and less fearful or defensively aggressive the animal becomes in future care situations.

By empowering pets with the control to start and stop their own care routines at will, caregivers are providing their pets with autonomy. This practice not only improves the animal’s experience during care routines but also strengthens the trust and communication between the pet and their caregiver, enhancing the overall quality of care and the human-animal bond.

Food Dispensing and Puzzle Toys for Cats

A striped kitten playing with a cardboard box in which holes have been cut

Puzzle box

Q: I’ve heard puzzle toys are good for cats. What are puzzle toys?

B: Food dispensing and puzzle toys stimulate your cat’s mental and physical abilities. They are designed to challenge your cat to think and move their bodies to access food or treats. These toys can range from simple to complex, offering cats of all ages and abilities a chance to engage their natural instincts and behaviors.

Why Food Puzzle Toys are Important:

  1. Mental stimulation: Just as humans benefit from challenges and puzzles, cats too need mental stimulation to keep their minds sharp. These toys require them to think, strategize, and problem-solve.
  2. Physical activity: Many domestic cats live sedentary lives. Puzzle toys motivate cats to move, play, and exercise, which can help prevent and treat obesity.
  3. Mimics natural behavior: In the wild, cats spend a significant amount of time hunting for food. Puzzle toys simulate this hunting behavior, satisfying their instinctual needs.
  4. Controlled feeding: For cats that tend to eat too quickly, puzzle toys can slow the pace, which can help reduce digestive issues.

How To Use Food Dispensing Toys:

  1. Start simple. If your cat is new to puzzle toys, start with a simple design to let them get the hang of it.
  2. Use tasty motivators. Fill the toy with treats or kibble that your cat loves. This will encourage them to engage with the toy.
  3. Supervise initial play. Watch your cat the first few times they use the toy to ensure they don’t become frustrated or try to break or ingest it.
  4. Introduce variety. Over time, introduce different puzzle toys to keep your cat’s interest piqued.
  5. Keep toys clean. Clean the toys regularly, especially if you’re using wet food.

A black cat licks treats off a mat placed on the floor

Lickable mat

Specific Examples:

  1. Ball dispensers: These are balls that dispense kibble or treats when they roll.
  2. Maze feeders: Cats must navigate the maze to push food to an exit point.
  3. Mat feeders: These are silicone lickable mats for spreading treats or wet food. Some have suction cups to hold them to a vertical surface.
  4. Interactive puzzle boards: These have different compartments and moving pieces where treats can be hidden.
  5. Automated puzzle toys: Battery-operated toys that move or dispense food intermittently.

Additional Resource: For more information, detailed reviews, and further insights into food puzzles and how they benefit cats, visit www.foodpuzzlesforcats.com. This resource provides valuable tips, guidelines, and recommendations tailored for feline companions

Are Behavioral Medications Right for my Dog?

Dogs, much like people, can suffer from behavioral issues that not only detract from their quality of life but also cause significant emotional distress. The first step toward addressing any behavioral concerns in your dog is to consult with your veterinarian to rule out underlying medical issues impacting your pet’s behavior. Common behavioral issues include, but are not limited to:

  • Leash reactivity
  • Predatory behavior
  • Fear of strangers
  • Aggression directed toward other animals
  • Fear of handling
  • Noise phobia
  • Compulsive behaviors
  • Separation distress
  • Hyperactivity and hyperarousal
  • Escape-related behaviors
  • Excessive vocalizations
  • Resource guarding

Some of these behaviors are considered normal depending on the context and degree of reaction; others are abnormal and require intervention in the form of management, training, enrichment, and a behavior modification plan. In some cases, these strategies may not be sufficient, making other interventions, such as medications, necessary.

How Do You Know if It Is Time To Talk to Your Veterinarian About Behavioral Medications?

If your dog’s behavior significantly affects their quality of life or their ability to learn and process information, it may be time to consult with your veterinarian about the benefits that medications could provide your pet as part of a comprehensive treatment plan.

If Medications Are NeededWhat Are My Options?

There are two types of behavioral medications that veterinarians prescribe. The first type is maintenance medication, administered daily whether the dog’s triggers are present or not. Selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs) such as fluoxetine, sertraline, and tricyclic antidepressants (TCAs) like clomipramine and amitriptyline, fall into this category. These medications are designed to target specific neurotransmitters that affect behavior. They require time to be effective, typically taking six to eight weeks to reach a maintenance level to work. These work best with unpredictable triggers, or triggers that are hard to identify, avoid, and manage, such as noise phobias and generalized anxiety.

The second type is situational medication, administered as needed for specific problems or triggers. These medications usually take effect within a couple of hours and are short-acting, wearing off within several hours. Examples include trazodone, clonidine, dexmedetomidine OTM (oral transmucosal), gabapentin, and benzodiazepines. Situational medications are ideal for dogs with predictable triggers or situations that can usually be avoided or scheduled, such as car rides, going to the veterinary office, new visitors, or need to be confined.

To help determine if your dog would benefit from medications, consider the following:

  • Has your pet undergone a medical examination to rule out underlying issues?
  • Is your pet’s (or family’s) quality of life decreased due to behavior problems?
  • What management, training, and behavior modification efforts have you tried?
  • How often does problematic behavior occur, and are the triggers predictable or avoidable?
  • What are the specific triggers affecting your pet’s quality of life?
  • How severely is your pet affected by their triggers?
  • How do you feel about using behavioral medication, and what concerns do you have about side effects?
  • What financial, emotional, and time resources can you dedicate to addressing your dog’s behavior?

Never give medications that have been prescribed for other pets or humans.

Ultimately, the decision to incorporate behavioral medications into your pet’s treatment plan should be made in consultation with your veterinarian or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist. Veterinary professionals can help you navigate the options available and develop a tailored plan that enhances your dog’s ability to process information more effectively, improves their predictability and resilience, and enhances the quality of life for everyone involved.