How to Play Tug Safely

June 27, 2024 • Behavior Bytes Dogs Pet Owner Shelter Worker Trainer

By Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Puppies require many outlets for chewing and biting behavior. When done safely, tug can be a great game to engage your puppy.

Handler places first tug toy in front of puppy

Image courtesy of Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Playing with two tug toys of the same value works best. Tug with one toy, and then, after a few seconds, release the other toy and allow your puppy to have it.

Handler holds first tug toy in front of puppy and second toy is in other hand

Image courtesy of Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Pick up the second tug to entice your puppy to drop the one they are playing with and tug the new toy.

Puppy plays with one tug toy while handler holds another

Image courtesy Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Pick up the toy your puppy dropped and repeat.

Handler shows puppy alternate tug toy

Image courtesy Jessica Benoit, RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

Going back and forth playing tug this way not only prevents your puppy from redirecting their energy and excitement toward you, but also teaches to drop items.

This behavior is reinforced with continued play.

If your puppy has difficulty switching toys, you can always toss a few treats on the ground to get them to release.

Board and Train Facilities

June 18, 2024 • Ask LSH Dogs Pet Owner Trainer

By Pat Koven, LVT, KPA- CTP

Person holding palm out to dog on leash

Q: I have a new dog who needs training. A person near me offers a boarding and training service so I can send my dog there for a few weeks while I’m on vacation and he comes back to me trained. Is this a good way to train him?

A: Board and train programs for dogs are offered by some dog trainers or facilities. In this type of program, you send your dog to stay at the trainer’s facility or home for an agreed-upon time, ranging from a few days to several weeks. The trainer works with your dog on certain skills, which may include obedience (sit, stay, come), behavior modification (aggression, anxiety, barking), or socialization with other dogs and people. Trainers, their facility, and their staff should be thoroughly researched before you send your dog away to stay with them.

Although having someone else train your dog may be appealing because they do the work and you pick up a trained dog, there are significant drawbacks to this program style.

  • Trainers should be training you, the caregiver. You are the one training your dog because you are the one living with your dog.
  • The training environment is different than your home environment. Your dog may become well-trained at the facility, but that training may not carry over into your home unless you have worked with your dog.
  • Training is an excellent time for you and your dog to bond, which cannot occur if you are not there.
  • The trainer may use a method you are uncomfortable with or may address a behavior differently than you would want.
  • Your dog may become more anxious in an environment that is not their home. Fear and anxiety can prevent your dog from learning.
  • Some facilities board the dogs together, not allowing for safe spaces or quiet time. Forcing dogs together does not create socialization and can have long-term consequences.
  • Board and train programs have historically used punishment-based methods such as shock or prong collars.

Even if you do get excellent referrals to a board and train facility, research them thoroughly.

  • The person working with your dog should be a certified, positive-reinforcement trainer who does not use aversive equipment or techniques.
  • Ask your veterinarian what they have heard about the facility.
  • Verify the facility is equipped to handle an emergency with your dog. Identify their protocols for taking your dog to a veterinarian or emergency clinic.
  • Ask how the facility provides daily updates. Live video access would be an excellent bonus.
  • Training time with you should be built into the program before your pet is released to return home. The trainer should teach you how to work with your dog for consistency.
  • There should be an agreed-upon time frame for training. Sudden extensions, which then add to the fees, are concerning. 
  • The trainer’s goals and values for your dog should align with your expectations.
  • Avoid trainers who use punishment tools such as choke collars.

Starting Your Kitten Off on the Right Paw by Enrolling in Kitty Kindergarten

June 17, 2024 • Cats CattleDog Publishing Newsletter I am a... Pet Owner Student Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Marianne Manning, RVT, LVT, KPA CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP, CFVP, VTS (Behavior)

Photo of two sphynx kittens

Kittens Edison and Ethel. Image courtesy of Marianne Manning, RVT, LVT, KPA CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP, CFVP, VTS

One way to help a newly adopted kitten thrive and grow into a behaviorally healthy adult cat is to enroll them in a kitten class, often referred to as kitty kindergarten. In class, caregivers will learn how to distinguish between normal and abnormal cat behaviors, observe and interpret cat body language, and address their cat’s basic needs through play and positive reinforcement.

Caregivers often seek out classes when their new kitten is doing things they don’t like, such as scratching the furniture, climbing drapes, or biting ankles. Kitty kindergarten can teach caregivers to make changes to the environment, create suitable outlets for these behaviors, and use positive reinforcement to teach desirable behaviors. Clicker training, which utilizes a sound to mark the kitten’s behavior as it happens, makes it clear to the kitten what they did right and what they will be rewarded for in the future. Kitten classes also teach foundational behaviors such as coming when called and targeting and stationing, which are useful for carrier training and more.

There may be both virtual and in-person options available for kitten classes. The benefit of in-person classes is the opportunity to expose and socialize the kitten to new people, different environments, and to other kittens in the same age range. However, in-person classes often have an age limit due to a cat’s socialization period. Typically, kittens between seven and 14 weeks of age are accepted, though some classes only allow kittens 11 weeks or younger.

After 11 weeks, a kitten can become wary and possibly fearful of new people and things and less interested in playing with other kittens. An in-person class for an older kitten runs the risk of causing more behavioral issues rather than providing help. Caregivers who have a kitten over the age limit of an in-person class may still be able to attend without the cat to receive education on setting the kitten up for success. Don’t hesitate to ask for this option.

Two siamese kittens playing with a wand toy

Image courtesy of Marianne Manning, RVT, LVT, KPA CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP, CFVP, VTS

An alternative to in-person classes is virtual kitty kindergarten. The benefit of virtual classes is that the kitten can be older than 14 weeks, which is helpful for those who have adopted a kitten from a shelter or rescue. The same education on cat behavior, body language, and solving unwanted behavior problems will be covered, all while training the kitten in the low-stress environment of their home! The downfall of virtual kitten kindergarten is that it lacks the exposure to other kittens, people, or new environments that an in-person class provides. 

When researching kitten classes, look for those run by veterinary professionals, cat behavior consultants, or animal trainers who use positive reinforcement as their training method. Kitty kindergarten is as important as preventative health measures that lead to a long, happy life for your cat.

Computer screen shows a kitten class in session. Image courtesy of Marianne Manning, RVT, LVT, KPA CTP, LSHC-S, FFCP, CFVP, VTS

Training Your Pet To Cooperate With Ear And Eye Medications

May 30, 2024 • Behavior Bytes Cats Dogs I am a... Shelter Worker Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Once your pet understands that their treatment station is a place where good things happen and they are comfortable communicating a desire to stay or a need to leave, it is time to start using the station to teach your pet about treatments.

Medicating and cleaning ears and eyes are procedures that many pets will need at some point in their lives. While it is beneficial to start with a young pet or one that has never experienced these treatments before, you can work with a pet that has. If possible, teach these skills when your pet does not have an active medical concern requiring treatment. If they are being treated, you can use the same steps, just monitor your pet’s body language.

Person introducing medication bottle to pet

Show your pet what you are doing so they have the chance to opt-out. The eye drop bottle is presented, followed by a reward. This cat is shown the bottle containing eye drops and given space and time to understand what is going on. Image courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Before beginning, you will need:

  • Treats your pet really likes.
  • The ear or eye medications you are working with and any other necessary supplies (e.g., cotton for wiping out ears after cleaning).
  • If your pet is not currently being treated for an active condition, ask your veterinary team if there are safe products you can use for training (you can still go through most of the skills with closed bottles).
  • A container of warm water to warm up ear treatments (consult with your veterinary team to ensure the product can be gently warmed).

Ear and eye treatments follow a similar approach but may vary based on your pet’s learning history and any other conditions they may have.

  • Set up your treatment station with everything you need before calling your pet over. Be honest, and don’t hide any part of the process. 
  • Ask your pet to come to the station and reward them when they do.
  • Using food as a distraction during training is acceptable as long as your pet is aware of the procedure and has the option to leave and still receive their reward.
  • Remember your pet can opt-out at any time and pay them appropriately if they choose to leave. This is particularly important if your pet has had a difficult experience in the past. Avoid coercion or putting your pet in a situation of motivational conflict where they must make a choice between discomfort and wanting the reward.
  • When your pet is comfortably positioned at their station, show them the treatment bottle and reward them. If they show any sign of anxiety, toss the reward away from the station to allow them to retrieve it. When they return, start with the bottle a little further away.
  • When your pet is comfortable with the sight of the bottle, ensure they are comfortable with handling around the ear or eye (including bending into your pet’s space). Without the bottle in your hand, gently touch the area, then reward. If they show discomfort, still give a reward, but do not proceed with touching. Always give the reward, even if they say no.
  • Once your pet is comfortable with both the sight of the bottle in your hand and your touch, it is time to put it all together. Approach with the bottle as if you are going to administer it, get close without applying, stop, and reward. Monitor their reaction closely at every step. 
  • Once your pet is consistently comfortable with this approach, proceed with the treatment.

Woman in blue shirt administers ear medication to a black dog

When your pet is comfortable with all the steps leading up to applying ear medication, the actual medication administration does not have to be a fight. This dog is comfortable receiving his ear medication as he understands the process. Image courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

Some Alternatives That May Be Helpful

  • For medium to large dogs, teach them to sit between your legs with their head raised, making administering eye medications easier.
  • Cats can lick a tasty food paste above their head continuously to make it easier to administer eye medications.
  • For ear cleaning, alternatively apply the ear cleaner to a clean cotton pad or gauze. Use the soaked cotton to gently clean inside the ear. Ask your veterinary team how deeply to clean safely.

Woman in blue shirt administers eye medication to a liver-and-white colored dog

A medium to large dog may be more comfortable receiving eye treatment from a trained position between your legs. Image courtesy Barb Deg, RVT, CDBC, CPDT-KA, CSAT

If your pet does not currently need treatment, completing all the training in one session is unnecessary. Allow for flexibility in the training schedule. You can have play breaks in between steps, especially if your pet seems more reluctant or resistant.  Break the session into smaller, manageable steps to help your pet succeed and to make the training process more effective and pleasant for both of you.

The Three-Term Contingency: The ABCs of Behavior

May 15, 2024 • Ask LSH Cats Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Student Trainer Veterinary Professional

By Christine D. Calder, DVM, DACVB

Understanding your pet’s behavior can be simplified into three main parts known as the ABC model: the Antecedent (what happens before a behavior), the Behavior (what your pet does), and the Consequence (what happens after the behavior). Based on Applied Behavior Analysis (ABA), this method helps you understand, predict, and modify your pet’s actions to improve communication and solve behavior problems.

The Trigger: Antecedent

The antecedent is the event or situation that occurs right before your pet’s behavior. It is like a trigger that sets off a specific reaction from your pet. This could be anything from you picking up their leash, indicating it is time for a walk, to external factors like another animal nearby or a sudden noise. Recognizing these triggers helps predict and better understand your pet’s actions.

The Action: Behavior

Behavior refers to what your pet does in response to the antecedent. It is the actual action you can see, such as sitting, jumping, or barking. Behaviors can be desirable (like sitting when asked) or undesirable (like jumping on the counter). The key is that behaviors are observable and measurable, giving insight into your pet’s needs and motivations.

The Result: Consequence

Consequences are the results that follow your pet’s actions. They shape behaviors by either increasing or decreasing their frequency. These outcomes help your pet learn what behaviors are beneficial and which are not. This influence can make a behavior more or less likely to occur again.

  • Positive vs. Negative: In this context, “positive” means adding something (like treats or playtime) to encourage a behavior. “Negative” means taking something away (like ignoring them) to discourage a behavior. It is important to note that “positive” and “negative” do not necessarily mean good or bad here.
  • Reinforcement and Punishment: These are the tools to change behavior. Reinforcement makes a behavior more likely to happen again, while punishment does the opposite. Adding something (positive reinforcement) or taking it away (negative reinforcement) can encourage a behavior. Adding a consequence to stop a behavior is positive punishment, and taking something away is negative punishment.
  • It is All About Perspective: What counts as reinforcement or punishment depends on how your pet feels about it, not what you might think. Each pet is unique, and what motivates one might not affect another the same way.

Applying the ABCs of Behavior

Example 1: Barking at the Doorbell

  1. Identify Antecedents: The doorbell ringing serves as the trigger that sets off your dog’s barking.
  2. Modify Behavior: Teach your dog to go to a specific spot (like their bed) and reward them for staying quiet when the doorbell rings. Start by teaching them to station on that spot. Then, practice with the doorbell sound. Use a remote treat dispenser to reward them from afar.
  3. Provide Appropriate Consequences: Reward your dog with treats for choosing to go to their spot and sitting quietly when the doorbell rings. If the barking continues, return to the previous step in which they were quiet. With practice, they should no longer bark when the doorbell rings.

Example 2: Jumping on Guests

  1. Identify Antecedents: The arrival of guests acts as the trigger for your dog’s jumping behavior.
  2. Modify Behavior: Teach your dog an alternative behavior, such as sitting to greet or staying in a specific area away from the door when guests arrive. Use training sessions to practice this behavior with friends pretending to be guests.
  3. Provide Appropriate Consequences: Reward your dog for sitting or staying in their spot when guests come. If they keep jumping, go back a step. Meanwhile, use a gate to keep them away from guests or put them in a quiet place until everyone’s settled. Then, let your dog join in. Keep doing this, and your dog will jump less over time.

Example 3: Digging in the Yard

  1. Identify Antecedents: Being left alone in the yard without supervision or engagement may trigger digging behavior.
  2. Modify Behavior: Change your dog’s behavior by giving them fun options like interactive toys or a special digging box. You can encourage them to use the box by hiding toys or burying treats inside it for them to discover.
  3. Provide Appropriate Consequences: Give your dog treats for using the digging box or playing with toys they find in the box. If they dig somewhere else, gently guide them to the digging box and then give them treats for choosing to dig there.

By understanding and applying the ABCs of behavior, you can improve communication with your dog, address behavioral issues more effectively, and work towards positive behavioral outcomes. Remember, patience and consistency are key; seeking help from a professional can offer additional support specific to your pet’s needs.

Confinement Training

May 1, 2024 • Behavior Bytes Dogs I am a... Pet Owner Shelter Worker Trainer

By Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, EFFCP

fPuppy with lickable mat behind wooden baby gate

Photo courtesy Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, FFCP

Confining your dog to a crate can have its benefits, but crate training is not ideal for all dogs. In the past, it was thought that dogs preferred crates because of their “den-like” atmosphere; however, observations of free-ranging dogs show their preferences would vary from open fields to smaller, enclosed areas that were sometimes well-lit. Only pregnant females would seek out dens as a space to safely give birth and protect their young afterward. 

Confinement spaces should never be used for punishment. A puppy’s confinement space is their safe place. If used for punishment, confinement anxiety may occur.  

There are certain situations where crate training may be beneficial, such as: travel, veterinary settings, recovering from surgery, and dog sporting events. When introduced in a slow, purposeful, and positive manner, confinement spaces can provide a convenient and safe in-home retreat for your dog that is overwhelmed, fearful, anxious, or tired.

When choosing a crate, size, and set-up matter. Crates should be big enough for your puppy to move comfortably, stand up, turn around, and lie in a lateral position. Room for water and crate-safe food puzzle toys is recommended. Metal crates can be a great option since they have dividers to increase or decrease size. Your puppy may prefer a crate that is covered with a blanket or crate cover.

Drawing of a dog in an x-pen with toys and carrier

Photo courtesy Jessica Benoit RVT, VTS (Behavior), KPA CTP, CPDT-KA, FFCP

Alternatively, an exercise pen (X-pen) or gated-off room gives puppies more space and can be a confinement area. A crate can also be placed inside an X-pen to give your puppy the option to enter the crate on their own terms. This setup can prevent situations where your puppy is placed in a crate before they are ready. This enclosed space should include an elimination area, feeding station, and toys to provide for your puppy’s basic needs. 

Few puppies are initially comfortable being crated, especially overnight. Dogs are social sleepers, and it can be very stressful for a puppy as they transition into their new home.  Separation from littermates can cause undue stress for puppies and if immediately expected to sleep in a crate, a negative association may occur. If a crate is used, either place the crate near your bed, gate the adjoining bathroom, or let your puppy sleep in your bed if they can get on and off the bed safely. Having your puppy sleep in the bed may or may not be a long-term solution, but it can help decrease stress for both of you while transitioning. Whatever the sleeping arrangement, you should be prepared to get up throughout the night to allow your puppy to eliminate.

Confinement training takes time and patience. Offer food puzzle toys throughout the day in the area to help your puppy make positive associations and reinforce independence. The “Crate Fairy” exercise is another to teach your puppy to associate their confinement space with good things. Place high-value treats in this space throughout the day when they are not watching. When they choose to enter their crate, they will be surprised with delicious treats.

Confinement Training Steps:

Training sessions should be two to five minutes long, once or twice daily. 

Phase 1: Getting comfortable.

  • Place treats close to and inside the space for three to five sessions. 
  • Once comfortable going in and out, wait for your puppy to enter, mark using a clicker or verbal marker such as “yes”, and toss a treat inside.
  • Once your puppy eats the treat, mark again and toss another treat out of the space. 
  • Wait until your puppy re-enters, then mark and treat in the space. 
  • Toss another treat outside the space so your puppy leaves, and repeat.

Phase 2: Closing the gate.

  •   A gate or crate door is preferred for this step of the process.
  •   When step 1 is repeatedly met with success, begin to close the gate/door.
  •   Mark and feed a few treats through the gate, let your puppy out, and repeat.

Phase 3: Add the cue.

  •   Over time, add the chosen cue, such as “crate”, as your puppy walks into the space.
  •   Close the gate/door, mark, and treat your puppy for being in the space with the gate closed.
  •   Slowly increase the amount of time in this space before marking and treating.

Phase 4: Increasing duration and distance

  •   Food puzzle toys or a remote treat dispenser can help increase duration and distance while building calm and relaxed behaviors in the space.
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